Printable View
Can someone tell me how to remove this ignition switch? It has a very small bezel that doesn’t unscrew. No openings or slots to pop it off either. The switch is off at 12 o’clock and on at 3 o’clock. It also turns to the 9 o’clock position but that doesn’t seem to do anything.
Attachment 11539
I haven’t seen one quite like that. I would guess there is a big nut on the back side that can be backed off to let the switch come through the panel far enough to get a hold of the bezel and remove it.
Todd, I think that switch might be spring loaded from behind. If there isn't a large nut like Jeff suggested, I think you need to push the switch from the back of the dash forward and turn it to unlock the bezel.
Well no dice on spring loaded but once I found a path to the back of the dash through the maze of wires and connectors I see a thin round collar with slots 180 degrees from each other threaded to the back of the dash. How the heck I’m going to grab ahold of it is the question.
Attachment 11542
There is probably a spanner wrench to fit it but I think I would see if I could knock it loose with a long flat screwdriver.
I am liking Jeff's long flat screwdriver idea.
Thanks guys. I think the screwdriver might be the way to go too. For now I think I’m going to leave it be and buy a new ignition switch plus I need a new headlight switch. I want to come up with a plan to fix this wiring, like take off one wire at a time and trace and replace.
I’ve been looking at all the wiring now and found so many wires that have have multiple splices in the run. And the wire isn’t the same color after each splice! Who does that?? :mad: Also mix in the original cloth covered wire that’s all faded and dirty…fun times are ahead!
It sounds like Bubba has been hard at work using whatever he could scrape up to make repairs.
Evidently :DQuote:
Originally Posted by 51 CJ3
At least Bubba used different colors... I had one that ALL the wires were blue....and wrapped with blue marking tape.
Well the good news is there are only a few circuits and no computer.
Here is a link to at least one version of CJ-3A wiring. I was trying to find version with wire colors - think I've seen one somewhere, but ???.
http://www.cj3apage.com/index/Tech_T...20diagrams.htm
From this diagram, it does not appear that the CJ-3A (in some versions) had a starter switch, just an ignition switch. What you have may be just an ignition switch. The three positions are OFF (center); IGN/ACC (ignition and accessories - like the radio and heater) in the CW position and ACC (accessories only) in the CCW position. In some cases CW and CCW functions may be reversed.
The ACC position was so that if you were sitting still without the engine running and listening to the radio (or some such foolishness) current was not flowing through the ignition points and that would keep you from burning or welding points.
As a friend of mine found out in about 1962, if you sit with the ignition switch in the IGN position with the radio on and watch the submarine races with your girlfriend late into the evening, the points get hot and weld closed, the car won't start and people come looking for you about 1:00 AM in the morning.
Here is a link to pictures with colored wires. They are for an MB, but you get an idea of what colors were original.
Now, a two-cents worth. The wiring on the '48 was a mess. I thought I could do a wiring harness myself, after all I designed aircraft wiring harnesses for a long time. But, the more I looked - the more I realized that once I did build my own harness, I would have what looked like a home made mess - not to mention trying to get all of the terminals and connectors I needed.
Depending on how much cleaning up you really intend to do - don't discount just buying a new harness. It WILL look really nice when you're done and it will be more reliable and you will avoid trying to find the wire you misrouted or left out when you try to fire it up.
Thanks everyone. Good point about just buying a harness, I have been thinking about it.
The CJ3A was a foot starter until its last years. At that time it could have been purchased with either a foot switch or, a remote key switch like we are all familiar with today. You could have either. The wiring in an early Willys is fairly straight forward. Not a lot there! The original wiring was cloth covered and two colors, white and black. The starter switch replacements now all have the "start" position. It is not used in the foot pedal start, its just along for the ride!
I have the foot starter. Would like to eventually switch to ignition key start but for now everything works with the foot start so no need to make more work for myself.
Aften cases a battery power disconnect switch is used as a two position keyed switch. Our Heep has one from a Hyster forklift, and has for at least 40 years. You can get them pretty cheap on Amazon or eBay.
If you're rewiring will you switch to 12 volt? These jeeps are super easy to rewire, I had mine running with less then 3 wires. But it's amazing the kind of stuff some people will do to a wiring harness, splicing in stuff trying to fix it, but just making it worse for the next guy... some times it's easier to just start over.
Had a similar wiring nightmare with our 1948 CJ2a, various colored wires patched together with electric tape and different type connectors. We were amazed that it even ran, but now have a new wiring harness that will be installed as part of the restoration and 12 volt switch over.
I think a lot of "Bubba's" have a common "plumbing approach" to the electrical system. There's a wire... I'll just tap in there with this piece of wire I cut out over here... and hook up this new winch, and all the lights I can find.
It’s already converted to 12V. Ordered a new harness, I could bandaid things to get it squared away for another 10000 miles but my OCD got the better of me!Quote:
Originally Posted by 56willys
A new harness is always a good way to go Todd! You know exactly what you have after that install.