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New guy here
Hey guys just wanted to say hello to the group. I just picked up a 1970 dj5 with the f head hurricane. It has a 3 speed transmission and 4 wheel drive. From the research I have done these options were not available on the 70 dj5...the floor is completely rotted out but everything above is ok. Step one is to get it running. Somebody has been in there and tried to wire it, but I don't believe they knew what they were doing... I got it to turn over with a push button switch just need to get spark now...
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Welcome, now the fun starts.
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Thanks, definitely going to be a project. But at least it came with a plow so i can use it as a plow rig if nothing else
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Glad to have you! Post some pictures whenever you get a chance. Sounds like there is some potential there.
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Attachment 2203 I will try and put together an album at some point.
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Attachment 2204 definitely going to take some time..
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Attachment 2205 the tough part creating a new floor pan...
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Attachment 2206 what can you tell me about the VIN??
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Once you get the floor perimeter back in shape, the rest is fairly easy. Brace the body upper section to prevent twisting or folding, then work from one end to the other. the fact you have a roof, helps immensely. Keep us in the loop!
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That's the plan, where's the best spots to brace the upper body to keep it from twisting? Just wondering where to hook my braces to and not be in the way of cutting out the floorpans. Also a quick electrical question...does the coil receive a 12 volt source or is it stepped down somewhere? Trying to get it to fire up.. thanks guys
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Usually, there is a ballast resistor that drops the voltage down before it gets to the coil. With that being said, a twelve volt coil can handle full voltage for a long time. I never ran a ballast resistor on the Dodge points distributors that I used to run demolition derbies with, and had no problems. Hook your twelve volt source to the positive side of the coil with a toggle switch, (to kill power) then power to the starter. That's all you need to start. It doesn't appear that Kaiser ran a Ford style external solenoid for the starter, so that will keep things simple. The following is a link to a good source of wiring diagrams;
http://www.jeepsurreygala.com/?page_id=1377
The picture above was of an M38A1 that was fairly well roached out as far as the floors were concerned. The body could not be removed from the frame because there was only a small patch of metal holding the cowl to the rest of the tub. The braces were 1" square tubing, welded to flat bar stock onto the forward face of the fender well, (towards the top). I added some kickers going down to the floor riser, to keep the brace stable at the rear. There was another tab welded to the other end of the brace, but drilled a hole for mounting to the dash panel. Then there was a cross brace added about six inches from the dash to make rigid. After the driver's side floor was repaired, then I was able to remove the tub from the frame. With one good floor pan, the body was stable enough to be turned on its side, so that the passenger floor board could be cut out from underneath the tool box.
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Thanks for all the help, very appreciated. I got the wiring diagram off that same site, I couldn't see that the coil ran off a ballast resistor just that it seemed to go from the coil to the voltage regulator on the instrument cluster and then through the key switch. I just saw a lot about a ballast resistor when researching how to hook up an ignition, didn't want to give it a full 12 volts if it couldn't handle it. Thanks again.
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Attachment 2226 just another before photo
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No problem. We are all in this together!
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So you think I should be fine to give the coil a full 12 volts
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A. Google "Jeep VIN" and you will find a lot of lists. Your tag with a date gives you a "when".
B. Back in 1970, many ignition systems put 12-volts on the coil for start, then switched in a dropping resistor to run. Just to try to start it, 12 volts to coil.
C. Get a shop manual!
D. Get a KWAS catalog too!
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Thanks again pal, I picked up a resistor for the heck of it, just not sure where to wire it in, like I said the diagram I have doesn't seem to have one.
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I would have no problems running 12 volt constant to the coil. I haven't burned down a coil from voltage yet. At that time, I had two 1,000 CCA batteries in parallel, to spin over the 440. Under hood temps would be to where the headers would glow, and still never had ignition problems.
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Thanks again, now all I need is time... What's the best way to identify which transmission and transfer case I have??
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A Spicer 18 transfer case has two levers that control the operation, ( Hi - Low, 4 In-out). The Spicer 20 has one lever that operates all the functions, (2 Wheel/2Hi, 4 Hi, 4 Low). I assume that a CJ5 chassis was slid under your DJ body, so if I were to bet, you have the Spicer 20 single lever. Both are good transfer cases, but the 20 is a common upgrade for the 18.
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge...cases/model-20
The transmission could be any of the following;
https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledg...ssions/manual/
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Seems to have the Spicer 18 has two sticks and the brake on the output shaft
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That's why I don't gamble much. Since you have a Spicer 18, then you most likely have a T-90 transmission.
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Real quickly this morning I jumped the coil with 12 volts, cranked the engine, and got nothing...replace the coil? Should I check spark from the coil wire , or one of the plug wires? Thanks again
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It doesn’t really matter where you check spark at but I think I would check spark at the plug because that is the fastest way to confirm if the ignition is working. If there isn’t spark at the plug then I would start troubleshooting the ignition system components starting with the coil and working down stream.
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I concur. The plugs are the easiest place to start. If the spark isn't there or yellow, check the points. A simple touch up of the contacts with some sand paper or thin file, usually cures a dim spark. While you are in the distributor, check the rotor button, the rotor contact, and the cap. All can be touched up with sand paper. Do all this before spending a dime on a tune up kit, because if the engine has deeper problems, you wouldn't have spent any money on consumables.
My wagon has a points distributor. Whenever it was parked for any length of time, the points and distributor cap would need a touch up before attempting to start. If not, you would have to crank for a while before it might fire. A quick touch up, and filling of the fuel bowl through the vent on the carb, and she would fire every time.
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Thanks again guys, I checked both spots same result no spark, I haven't done anything inside the distributor yet.
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Another quick question...my voltage regulator mounted on the firewall has 2 terminals on the bottom side and 1 terminal at the top, according to my wiring diagrams they have letters assigned to them, I don't see any labeled in it. Just trying to trace my wiring to make sure they are hooked up in the correct terminals. Thanks again guys, sorry to be such a pain.
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Please, don't hesitate to ask. The tabs that the screw goes through on the regulator usually are stamped what they are for. The top, single terminal is the BAT. The bottom left goes to the Armature, and the bottom right goes to Field.
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/categor...66-jeep-willys
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Thanks again guys, hopefully I will get more time in the shop this weekend. I will keep you updated!
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Attachment 2238where is this line supposed to attach, comes from the intake below the carb, it's just cut/ crimped off.
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Just guessing but it could be the vacuum source for the original windshield wipers.
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Okay so 12 volts across the battery...wire from battery+ to the coil +, coil - to distributor. Crank the engine, no spark.
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See if the coil wire going into the top of the distributor will spark to the block. Be careful, it can be quite a jolt.
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Just pulled off the distributor cap to check points gap, bumped it, I get spark from the points, cap and rotor look ok. Attachment 2239. How do the points look? I can't seem to get any further gap out of the points, I woul loosen the crew closest to the point contacts and then move the cammed screw next to it correct?
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Can't really tell from the picture. Need to see across the face of the area where they make contact. If they are bad they will look burned or be pitted. This link is to an aircraft page but don't let that bother you, points is points http://www.flight-mechanic.com/spark...nt-inspection/
If the points are sparking, you should be seeing something at the plugs. You might try a different plug or wire.
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I missed part of your question or your edit, not sure which. I wouldn't loosen the screw unless I was adjusting or replacing. The arm can be pushed back far enough to look at the surface without hurting it. It is spring loaded so it will return as long as it doesn't get bent. If you have a manual handy, look up the point gap for your engine. A feeler gauge that thickness should slide into the gap at the widest position achieved by turning the engine.
ADDED: I believe .020 inches for the point gap.
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The gap is too small I cannot get my feeler gauge between the points when it is open, when I loosen the screw to adjust them the still do not open far enough. I did switch the wire I was looking for spark on to another cylinder I was able to get one good spark then back to nothing..
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If it is the same as mine there are actually 3 screws to mess with. Two hold the points in place and one to make the adjustment. Hopefully this picture will help.
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Thanks for all the help, going to go back out in a little bit and mess with it some more. Thanks again.
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No problem. I am stalling this morning anyway. If I go outside I will be washing parts in ice cold avgas.