Kaiser Willys Jeep Parts
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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #341
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Pin C should be constant power. If you jump from there to the distributor, then the engine will run. Does your M38A1 have the floor foot starter switch, or is it new enough to have a starter relay? Floor switches make life a whole lot simple when rewiring.

    Speaking of rewiring, was your Jeep an original radio platform? Quick way to tell is that there is a harness run along the passenger, inside side panel, leading to the top of the tool compartment. Usually the harness is gone, but the L bracket mount remains. The reason I ask, and may be incorrect, is that the original harnesses were shielded. If so, you may have fun is reworking the harness. Not impossible, just a pain with the extra shielding added in.

  2. #342
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    have two frames and two harness's actually have both harness's and have the radio lead, and am interested in adding a radio, i have access to a HF radio of the era and just might do it, and i have the ham license also
    might be kinda cool..
    thought that constant power would come from there,,, will lay the harness out on a 4X8 , sheet of plywood pin it down and and lay it out as it goes in and rebuild. starter pedal, yeah but no body on it, so i added a vise grip to the starter and got leverage, works.

    getting anxious to start it up, and waiting for the damn fuel pump and have to horse together a suitable vent system (less than the diagram) to start it up and then start on the plumbing nightmare for full vent..... even the bell housing has a vent lead. oh well it is what it is
    Last edited by pelago; 02-13-2018 at 05:28 PM.

  3. #343
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The 4X8 plywood is a brilliant idea. That sure beats laying the harness out on the kitchen table. I had seen a fellow that had taken an MP3 player, and wired it into his speaker set. He had air strike call outs recorded in a loop for display purposes. The mobile ham radio would be a good deal to have set up.

    When the military put the rec for the venting system, they were not messing around. Even the master cylinder fill plug had a vent line to it.

    I can understand being anxious to start. You may have a lot of body work to tackle, but when the engine is running, that's a big load of problems handled. Everything after that is just time.

  4. #344
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    "but when the engine is running, that's a big load of problems handled. Everything after that is just time. " and that says a lot. the body is well, shall we say well used and a bit deteriorated..... but repair panels and a welder will do wonders

  5. #345
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Since you have two frames, that makes it nice to ensure all your mounting points stay true. Then you don't have to worry with marring up your finished frame when cutting and welding. Tack all the floor panels in place, then you can flip the body for finishing. I had to install the driver's side floor first, because that was the worst part of the floor. Overall, there was not enough steel remaining at the start to pull the body from the frame. The cowl started to fold toward the rear when the fasteners were removed. I found that 1X1" square tubing worked well to brace the body. Using several dial angle indicators, going fore and aft/port and starboard, I was able to straighten the cowl back out to plumb. Then the stiffeners were added to keep it that way. The stiffeners were tacked on to the upper wheel wells, then bolted onto the dash mounts. A kicker was added in front of the wheel wells, going down into the rear floor riser. Tip for the day, when welding on to the original 1950's steel, do not be afraid of cranking up the welder amps high. The old steel is of a much higher quality than some of the replacement metal. When plug welding the new metal on to the original steel, focus the heat on the base metal, then when the puddle is started, loop in the new metal to fuse the two. I use a Miller 135 110v mig welder, using .035 solid wire, with argon gas. All of the replacement metal was drilled for plug welding, to replicate the original spot welds. There are hobby grade spot welders available, but the reach is limited. The spot welder needs to be able to reach both sides of the surface to make a circuit.
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  6. #346
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    More pictures of the body work.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #347
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    wow, i am at the rust stage, will need new passenger side floor, passenger side outside panel work, and inside brace work, new tool box new back deck and right rear inner fender repair. very impressive,

    Now have a new snag. the distributor has a male receptacle for 24dc in from ignition, thats the rub, dont have the female plug to go on the wire end, dont have one and will need one

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  9. #349
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    Nope. I found a picture. But this might help:

    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/distrib...0-66-m38-m38a1

  10. #350
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    damn, now how couldnt i find it, thats it, thanks

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