Kaiser Willys Jeep Parts
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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #51
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    admit I had some concerns when he started sandblasting, previous to that the same fellow did some welding, he welded on the new shock absorber mounts, I asked him if the welder that was sold at harbor freighe was any good, and he looked at me and said "DONT BUY ANYTHING FROM THEM IT IS ALL CHINESE JUNK" forewarned i guess. his welder can be had for 1000.00 bucks and comes complete with bottle for wire, he showed me how to use it and damn if i did a half decent job, he said a little practice and you will have it. think next thing is to get it to roll on wheels, springs shocks and sand blasted painted differentials front and rear. a lot to be said about different primers and such. I lived on a sailboat and the engine mounts and brackets were steel, i used rustoleum rusty metal primer and it held for over ten years in harsh environment, saltwater, bilge water and did not fail once. i used gloss white rustoleum on some of the ineteior and it also did not fail. guess you go with what you know. that is the primer on the frame
    Last edited by pelago; 07-08-2017 at 10:37 AM.

  2. #52
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    had to put this up here, first new pieces and parts going on to see how it fits.. and to be honest, its a vanity thing. had this frame ready to blast since jan, but illness and other things just got in damn way
    motor ounts.jpg

    one thing i do not understand, this is the rear motor mount and has a ton of weight on it but it installs from bottom , my ignorant way of thinking is that the thing should rest on the inside of the box frame?? and does anyone see a problem with some welding for this?? only has four bolts to hold it?? i know engineers that are smarter than i have it bolted??
    Last edited by pelago; 07-10-2017 at 12:32 PM.

  3. #53
    Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    I don't know all of the details, but:

    A. If it's bolted from the bottom, you can jack up or support the rear of the motor and then remove the whole rail and mount assembly as one piece if you needed to;

    B. There are four bolts. I could do the strength of materials and tensile strength numbers, but I'm too lazy. I'd guess that the yield on those bolts, even with tightening preload, is well into the tens of thousands of pounds;

    C. Welding is close to permanent, especially when you are trying to grind or cut it off upside down with slag and sparks in your face.

    My two cent comment ....

  4. #54
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    "My two cent comment ..." BELIEVE ME, YOUR 2CENTS WORTH A HELL OF A LOT. Looked at the bolts i took out and decided even though they can probably be used again, i felt they needed to go to retirement home.. have a source and got 4 new bolts #8 case hardened , new bolts, and double washers one on each side and put a lock washer on also, for sXXXt sake i used stainless steel bolts the ones with the nylon anti vibrate loose feature... put 30lbs torque on each think its done!~!

  5. #55
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    It took me a day or so to get around to crawling under the truck to look at the cross member with the rear motor mount. Sure enough, that mount supports the transmission. On the truck it uses eight bolts (a little different configuration) but that cross member supports the transmission. If you need to remove the transmission, or on the M38 probably the transfer case either, that crossmember has to come out if the tub is on the frame. You would have figured that out pretty soon when you started stacking things back in there.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #56
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    "If you need to remove the transmission, or on the M38 probably the transfer case either, that crossmember has to come out if the tub is on the frame. You would have figured that out pretty soon when you started stacking things back in there. " once this critter is up and running I aint never taking the engine out again, damn thing is so freaking heavy. man they used a lot of steel in that motor and transmission!!!

  7. #57
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    FOUR HOURS,, FOUR HOURS TO GET THREE STINKING EX MANIFOLD BOLTS LOOSE!!! Alternate heat then penetrating oil, and tapping with hammer, then try to break loose, then back to heat and back to oil, dont have impact wrench, so i just tapped quite hard on a breaker bar with 1/2 socket, then finally they broke loose, now i can remove in prep to paint engine.....sheeeesh

  8. #58
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    spending some time on the motor, getting it detailed and ready to paint. bell housing and engine was green once, and the transmission also green (ollive drab) but someone painted the transmission and xfer case black, am getting it off and will very soon (few days) be ready to paint, NOW who in the heck sells olive drab engine paint????

  9. #59
    Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Hey, the good news is that you got the bolts loose without twisting them off!

    I went to a Sherwin-Williams store when I needed to paint my antenna tower. If you can find a real paint salesperson, they can do some looking (may have to go rummage in their computer) and find a number of industrial bases (machinery paints) that they can custom tint to match a paint chip.

    Lowes, Home Depot and Menards don't help unless you want to paint a wall or porch.

  10. #60
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    "Hey, the good news is that you got the bolts loose without twisting them off" partially true!! some of them gave up the ghost and just broke!.. some on the tub i had to grind off, (real fun upside down under the darn thing) had crap that has been on there for ???? years in my eyes, hair, mouth! but got it off. and taking your advice before serious repairs on tub having it sand blasted then primed, then repaired, only three items to sand blast, front and rear differential and tub "antenna tower" you a ham? I am, since 1956. I like the idea of going to a professional paint store, i have the spray can of olive drab (from kaiser and is correct olive for Marine M38A1) that i got to paint the parts that join together. and a gallon of olive to paint the whole critter when time comes..

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