Kaiser Willys Jeep Parts
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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #191
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    You are correct. 24 VDC at the distributor, and fuel supply. As long as the points are hot, the engine will run.

  2. #192
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    damn, i did remember.....

  3. #193
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    anyone got a suggestion for some product i can put in the block (coolant side) to help clean it out while it sits for a while...not planning on rebuilding real quick. but pulled the thermostat out and its pretty cruddy in there...

  4. #194
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    I haven't tried this stuff myself, but it could be worth a try. I don't know if it will get the calcium build up out or not, but bathroom cleaner CLR would help with that.

    Metal Rescue is a water based, environmentally friendly cleaner. It is supposed to be great at removing rust. Being water based, I don't know if one would want to coat the system with something to prevent rust from forming during storage.
    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Evapo-Rus...=sem#read-more

  5. #195
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    WAS ALSO THINKING ABOUT CLR??? put it in and flush? then let dry dunno

  6. #196
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    For the first start up, I'd just fill it with water so that if you have to open things up again, you can just drain it without having to catch and keep it or dispose of in an environmentally responsible manner (!~).

    Auto Zone gives 10% discount to vets...

    https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze-...ner/223022_0_0

    NAPA usually has Prestone stuff in stock as well.

    This cuts grease and oil as well as calcium and rust . Run it until it gets hot, let it sit for a day. Repeat daily for a couple of days - then dump it and flush!

  7. #197
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    Yes, I would put in the CLR, then flush. The Metal Rescue, if it works as advertised, should remove any rust residue. Again, if it works, it should leave you with a grey coating on the iron surfaces. I didn't find anything stating that you would need to coat the surface to keep it that way. Once the oxidation is removed, I would think you would be good to go from there. It took 60 plus years to create any gunk, a year or two in storage won't hurt it. Cap the openings to keep out critters, then fog the cylinders. The engine will be ready for hibernation.

    The Prestone cooling system flush works well, but it relies on temperature and pressure. The biggest downside to the in chassis flush, is that most people do not remove the radiator. Unless you flush one way, then reverse the flow back the other way, (leave the lower radiator hose attached to the water pump. Then when reversing the flow back through the radiator, and flow out the lower hose) you do not get all the crud out. The particles become trapped in the radiator. Also the thermostat would need to be removed also. A lot of overheating issues are caused by crud being deposited in the radiator.

  8. #198
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    And i found out once a flush can destroy seals in pumps, thought i needed to do that on my '49 ford coupe, all i did was screw up two water pumps, and they were a bitch to change out.
    Last edited by pelago; 11-16-2017 at 06:25 PM.

  9. #199
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    At least the CLR will dissolve the calcium deposits. Flush is made to sell more antifreeze and parts.

  10. #200
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    OLD SCHOOL... WAS TAUGHT THAT CARB GASKETS ARE DRY, AND VALVE COVER USED PERMATEX (NEW STUFF THAT BRUSHES ON) Actually went to local box type auto store and asked for crush washers. got a blank stare, at least he did not say "No Habla"

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