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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #231
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The crush washers are important, but I too have seen a lot of seasoned cars without the washers. Crush washers will prevent a lot of brake issues from outward leaks, to air entering the system. At least Kaiser Willys keeps these in stock. Gone are the days of going into a true auto parts house, digging through drawers of assortments of anything you could possibly want.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 12-05-2017 at 08:21 AM.

  2. #232
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Crush washers - Page 111 in the catalog with the skinny chick on the cover.....

  3. #233
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    well, that makes sense. fluid leaks are a pain in the *** but this thing has ten of them at least 4 wheel cylinders, 4 flex hoses lot of steel pipe fittings oh well it is what it is aint it
    wonder if going to a auto parts store would be a futile waste of time. kinda choke on a crush washer smaler than my little fingernail costing 2.00
    no trouble in the catalog finding them (yeah she is kinda boney aint she oops can i say that here) but now i have not read the maint manual cover to cover (can think of better bed side reading) but have looked seriously at it and just can not find a reference to any crush washers on brake line layout??
    Last edited by pelago; 12-05-2017 at 09:30 AM.

  4. #234
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The most important crush washers are for the banjo fitting at the master cylinder. The washers are used to seal up the through bolt, because the fluid travels through the bolt to the banjo fitting. Other that those two washers, I can not come up with any others. The rubber hoses, the brake lines screw into the end, and the S line ties into the other end of the rubber. The wheel cylinders tie into the hard axle line. No other crush washers are needed. I looked at the catalogue, and I saw the crush washers for $1.99, but they are for later model CJ5s. 1977-81 and 1982-86. Mainly the AMC days of Heeps needed the extra sealing help.....

    We use copper conical seals on the stainless hydraulic lines within the turrets of our big riffle (105 MM), but stainless will not seal well when the fitting is stainless also. The conical seal fits between the inside of the tubing flair and the fitting. The copper creates a viable, soft surface that will seal the connection.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 12-05-2017 at 01:58 PM.

  5. #235
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    No crush washers at wheel cylinders or at junction blocks, just at Master Cylinder.

    We did put crush washers under the bolts that hold the side plate on the steering gear box since we filled it with oil - not grease (another story).

  6. #236
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    somewhere there is a video of the very first prototype jeep saw it once was kinda cool, and the ever popular jeep came from that

  7. #237
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    If you ever find yourself in Huntsville AL, there is the US Veteran's Memorial Museum, http://www.memorialmuseum.org/displays. They have examples of all the prototypes submitted to the Government, (Bantam, Willys, and Ford). They have a reference library there also, that may have a copy of said video.

  8. #238
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    One thing I tried and it worked. kept needing a 3rd hand to do the brakes. had trouble putting in the retention spring, needed to hold the shoe and the little rod that goes thru the retention spring, actually got kinda pissed at it. took both shoes and just placed them in and took some electrical tape and made three loops around both shoes to hold them in and then the retention spring install was quite a bit more manageable. left the tape there for the upper and lower spring. made quite a difference anyway. well it worked for me.....just passing it on, but she has new brakes for and aft.... and new cylinders. brake lines and master cylinder next. one thing i did notice is that the individual wheels do not conform to the pictured in the manual,,, rear end one side had short shoe in back and one had short shoe in front?? some tech bulletin? maint chief tell the troops it dont matter?? who knows but i put mine like they were in the picture with short shoe in the back
    Last edited by pelago; 12-24-2017 at 12:19 PM.

  9. #239
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    You were correct in following the manual. The short shoe goes to the rear. An engineer with a higher paid grade once figured that the leading shoe would be the dominate stopping force, with the rear shoe there to back it up the front. As far as installing the shoes, I found that holding the shoes in place with my knees, then using a pair of vise grips on the spring to create the leverage needed to push the spring home. The vise grips works a whole lot easier than the brake spring tool, in my opinion.

  10. #240
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    HMMMMM i actually have found tht the brake ool actually works for me..pops that spring right in there, but i finaggle the bottem short spring in when i add the second shoe. just drops on in, and taking out so simple also.....one more thing off the list..

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