Kaiser Willys Jeep Parts
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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #91
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    UNANTICIPATED ISSUE CAME UP.... I am planning on staying with 24VDC I have two 24VDC starters, 2 24VDC regulators, but only one 24VDC generator. Here is the rub, I can remember polarizing voltage regulators, but damn if i can remember how we did it?? I would like to check out starters, I know that all that is needed is to hold them down and kick them with 24VDC and they will either just sit there or fire up. the generator is a different story, have watched battery/gen/alt and starter repair shops just put them in a jig with large electric motor with a fan belt and turn motor on and read the output. Here in Jacksonville NC there is a fine rebuild shop and i have used them for repairing and ordering pieces and parts for my cruising sailboat. However he does not want to touch either starter, reg, generator??? says he does not have nor can get parts. I told him that i was not having him repair them i just want them OP checked, he just does not want to do it. have called every shop within 100 miles (that i could find) no one want to do it???

  2. #92
    Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    M38A1 Generator and Regulator Answers

    Read These:

    http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=9497

    https://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=91074

    In the regulator - check rectifier (forward-reverse ratio/short/open) and capacitor for short

    Look at the picture: On the Generator cable connector:

    A and C are the "Hot" terminals.

    C is the Field.

    Case is Ground.

    Don't let the magic smoke out of the boxes and parts
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #93
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    GREAT, AND THANK YOU, BOOKMARKED AND PRINTED SAME. difference in models?? years?? branch of service?? in as much as i have two M38A1. been comparing them piece by piece. one interesting note, the mount and platform for the voltage regulator is somewhat different on the two, one is a flat stamped piece of metal that is more dirt shield than anything else and that is on the 1952 one, the other machine has shock mounted brackets on top of the shield, two flat pieces of !"X1/4" steel with shock mounts and a ground strap on two of the posts, the two pieces of steel are offset some and have studs tapped into them with rubber shock mounts. hmmmmm maybe someone found out something. but i intend to use the same principle on the rebuild. i have some thick nylon backed scrap and will cut out a 1"1/4" square (four of them drill them and use them to replace the dried out ones i have. wont be quite as high as the original but should do same job

  4. #94
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    OKAY, ANOTHER QUESTION....
    as most know i have two M38A1's for pieces and parts. the one built in 1952 has some differences with the other one, not sure when it was built but probably later. The voltage regulator on the 1952 model has small rubber shock absorbers on all four points where the regulator mounts on the plate that is attached to the frame. the later one does not? now did some engineer feel that the regulator has to be protected from shock? the little pieces of rubber (they look like a spool that thread could go on if it were wood) are pretty well shot. now i do in my junk pile have some nylon backed by rubber that i can cut and shape to make new ones. 1" thick rubber and nylon. comments?

  5. #95
    Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    I went out and peeked under the hood of the '48 - and then looked in the old parts box as well. All three of the regulators I have are hard mounted - just a metal plate that bolts to the fire wall. I faintly (and maybe inaccurately) remember a vibration isolated mount on some vehicle in my past - it could have been the '50 Dodge though.

    Now, were those rubber isolators possibly electrical isolation? The circuit breaker relay and the voltage regulator relay show internal connections to the case. I would strongly suspect that these were meant to be chassis negative (ground) returns). If the case has rubber isolators, how is the ground return handled?

    Unless they are there for some electrical reason, I suspect they were examples of overengineering.

  6. #96
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    Unless they are there for some electrical reason, I suspect they were examples of overengineering. ... two of the shock mounts had typical wire braid conductors to ground, have kept those and they are actually ingood shape, and yes the thing has to be connected to solid groundreconditoned voltage reg.jpgreconditoned voltage reg.jpg. not in photo but the base plate and shield actually metal wise okay, cleaned and painted

  7. #97
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    In another life I did a a lot of work isolating electronics from shock and vibration. That regulator uses three relays which depend on points opening and closing at the right time to do its job. As we know, M38's get vibrated a lot (think bi-directional tires on a hard road) and shocked and bounced a lot ("Hey y'all - watch this...).

    Vibration and shock could (and I stress could) make points open and close at the wrong time, so someone could overthink things and make that shock isolated mount. Soft rubber bobbins isolate from high frequency vibration. Harder rubber isolates from shock. A soft rubber bobbin that's aged and hardened changes from a vibration isolator to an shock isolator.

    It looks like your little rubber isolators will do a good job - and the wire braid answers our other question about negative chassis return.

    Carry on.

  8. #98
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    What a pain this was,,, so so so frozen, did not want to beat it to death, having control of clutch and brakes kinda important, but got it apart and cleaned, no slop in the movement so should be okaybrake and cluthc assy.jpg took a whole bottle of propane to heat it up enough to disassemble

  9. #99
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    there is a skid, protective plate under the master cyl, about 9"X8" not square and has two pieces to attach to frame and to cylinder. the one i have is a mess?? seemed to be two seperate pieces of steel sandwiched together and welded. mine is bad shape, both of them were if you look at diagram it is H. brake assembly.jpg so this basically will be the before look..skid 1.jpg another look at the rusty thing skid 2.jpg

  10. #100
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    Something hit that really hard to take out that notch! Is the steel hardened? From the fracture it looks so..

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