Kaiser Willys Jeep Parts
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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #101
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    there is a skid, protective plate under the master cyl, about 9"X8" not square and has two pieces to attach to frame and to cylinder. the one i have is a mess?? seemed to be two seperate pieces of steel sandwiched together and welded. mine is bad shape, both of them were if you look at diagram it is H. brake assembly.jpg so this basically will be the before look..skid 1.jpg another look at the rusty thing skid 2.jpg

  2. #102
    Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Something hit that really hard to take out that notch! Is the steel hardened? From the fracture it looks so..

  3. #103
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    Are there any seals to hold grease in the main tube with the zerk?

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarrBeard View Post
    Are there any seals to hold grease in the main tube with the zerk?
    I wondered about that, but there were not seals not even remnants of seals? have not located a blow up of the assembly either. maybe when i get the actual maintenance manual? hopefully there is diagram in there. neither jeep had seals or remnants of seals, curious


    just got email from Mike and here is diagram, i sure do not see any seals on there just washers
    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/diagram...71-willys-jeep

    went outside to other jeep that still has the assembly on it and there are not visible seals on it?? might get some o rings to go on??
    Last edited by pelago; 09-13-2017 at 02:43 PM.

  5. #105
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    The open ends probably let the old grease, dirt and crud come out when you ad fresh grease. It's a design feature.

  6. #106
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    been starting to look at the clutch linkage. when i bought these two jeeps neither one had a transmission and transfer case. had to get that separately. consequently i have about ZERO clutch linkage.. this going to be fun. still waiting on maint manual sure do need that now, PICTURES PICTURES PICTURES

  7. #107
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    been working on the side valve cover, not sure about the gasket, so removed cover and looked inside, not unhappy at what i found, some sludge, not much though. was able to 90% percent out with paper towels, the rest in nooks and crannys that could not access, but cleaned it out quite a bit, all looked good, new gasket installed, Previously i had put marvel mystery oil in cylinder heads and turned crank without plugs in the engine, turned over quite well with a breaker bar and a socket on fly wheel, ratcheted it around for good 15 minutes and then put plugs in, damn, compression made it so so tough to turn over by hand, turned then stopped, pressure to get it through then turned and stopped. encouraged. going to drop oil pan and clean it out and re gasket it.
    Got a coat of olive drab on the bottom of the frame, when it dries will turn frame over and another coat of paint. suspension coming soon

  8. #108
    Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    When you get the pan off, it might be a good idea to take the tops off the journals and look at the rod and crank bearings to make sure they aren't scored or burned. They will never be any easier to get to than they are right now..

  9. #109
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    That is a good idea, will do

  10. #110
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    Progress is as progress is,,,, in a word slow but still. Frame ready to go, sandblasted, two coats of rustoleum rusty metal primer, two coats of Olive Drab. Removed the oil pan and cleaned it, surprising little amount of sludge, mostly in corners, some on bottom maybe 1/4" but now clean and put back on with new gasket, old gasket was cork. Pulled on rod bearing and no surprises there, was very uncomfortable removing this, once told by old mechanic only take them off if you are going to rebuild....frame 1.jpgframe 2.jpgframe 3.jpg

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