Kaiser Willys Jeep Parts
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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #101
    Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Are there any seals to hold grease in the main tube with the zerk?

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarrBeard View Post
    Are there any seals to hold grease in the main tube with the zerk?
    I wondered about that, but there were not seals not even remnants of seals? have not located a blow up of the assembly either. maybe when i get the actual maintenance manual? hopefully there is diagram in there. neither jeep had seals or remnants of seals, curious


    just got email from Mike and here is diagram, i sure do not see any seals on there just washers
    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/diagram...71-willys-jeep

    went outside to other jeep that still has the assembly on it and there are not visible seals on it?? might get some o rings to go on??
    Last edited by pelago; 09-13-2017 at 02:43 PM.

  3. #103
    Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    The open ends probably let the old grease, dirt and crud come out when you ad fresh grease. It's a design feature.

  4. #104
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    been starting to look at the clutch linkage. when i bought these two jeeps neither one had a transmission and transfer case. had to get that separately. consequently i have about ZERO clutch linkage.. this going to be fun. still waiting on maint manual sure do need that now, PICTURES PICTURES PICTURES

  5. #105
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    been working on the side valve cover, not sure about the gasket, so removed cover and looked inside, not unhappy at what i found, some sludge, not much though. was able to 90% percent out with paper towels, the rest in nooks and crannys that could not access, but cleaned it out quite a bit, all looked good, new gasket installed, Previously i had put marvel mystery oil in cylinder heads and turned crank without plugs in the engine, turned over quite well with a breaker bar and a socket on fly wheel, ratcheted it around for good 15 minutes and then put plugs in, damn, compression made it so so tough to turn over by hand, turned then stopped, pressure to get it through then turned and stopped. encouraged. going to drop oil pan and clean it out and re gasket it.
    Got a coat of olive drab on the bottom of the frame, when it dries will turn frame over and another coat of paint. suspension coming soon

  6. #106
    Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    When you get the pan off, it might be a good idea to take the tops off the journals and look at the rod and crank bearings to make sure they aren't scored or burned. They will never be any easier to get to than they are right now..

  7. #107
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    That is a good idea, will do

  8. #108
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    Progress is as progress is,,,, in a word slow but still. Frame ready to go, sandblasted, two coats of rustoleum rusty metal primer, two coats of Olive Drab. Removed the oil pan and cleaned it, surprising little amount of sludge, mostly in corners, some on bottom maybe 1/4" but now clean and put back on with new gasket, old gasket was cork. Pulled on rod bearing and no surprises there, was very uncomfortable removing this, once told by old mechanic only take them off if you are going to rebuild....frame 1.jpgframe 2.jpgframe 3.jpg

  9. #109
    Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    LATE ANSWER TO OLD QUESTION

    I guess a late answer is better than none at all.

    We had to replace one new voltage regulator during the ’48 restoration and being the pack rat am, I kept the “new bad one”. In the bottom of the box that had the bad voltage regulator in it was a set of installation instructions that included how to polarize the regulator.

    Disconnect the negative battery terminal
    Remove wires from terminals noting location of each one
    Remove old regulator
    Install new regulator
    Reattach wires to same terminals as original unit
    Reconnect negative battery cable

    Polarize Regulator

    Obtain an 8-inch piece of 16-gauge or larger jumper wire
    Momentarily (no more than 2-econds) touch the jumper wire to both the armature (ARM) terminal and the battery (BAT) terminal. There may be a brief spark, this is normal.
    CAUTION: Do not touch the jumper wire to the field terminal (FLD) or ground
    Start vehicle and check for proper charging system operation.

    I still believe that since the regulators have been in service already, they won’t need to be re-polarized – even after boo-coo years

  10. #110
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    thanks i printed that and put it in my folder. Now trying to figure this out, why is there a valve in the middle there is oil in there but dont believe it is under pressure, the brass line goies in front of engine and around to a "T" fitting on the intake manifold right under carb?? there is another extension that was broken off and crimped shut on this engine. is this part of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation?? and is the valve for fording? there is not handle on the valve and it is in the open position. so far have not found it in the shop manual??curious.jpg
    late entry found a reference and some diagrams now more confused my engine no way is the same configuration as describedfuel fileer.jpg
    my air filter is NOT configured like this,
    do not have the connections that are in manual only one and that comes from oil fill pipe and that should go to air filter

    if you look below this, one will see the oil pressure line that goes to the oil filter. i need to get a new hose for this, the old one pretty ragged and will need new hose for the oil return.. might see if i can get onelocally shouldnot be that big a deal (hope)

    probably going to have to wing it do have more info in vacume linesventilating system.jpg there are hoses going everywherefuel pump.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 09-23-2017 at 04:09 PM.

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