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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #611
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    That's a good deal on the shape of the innereds of the transmission. Some government surplus vehicles were extremely low mileage examples. The '52 Dodge M37 we had less than10,000 miles on the clock, when we purchased it. The truck had gone through a depot overhaul in the mid seventies, then cut loose to the Civil Defence program. A local fire department had the truck until retirement, as a brush truck.

    As far as the exhaust on your A1, It runs down the driver's side. Much like the picture you have posted. The header pipe can only go one way. The long pipe goes along the driver's side frame rail, then cuts over at a 45 degree angle just after the rear end. The muffler sits at that angle the the tailpipe extension or fording pipe extension exits under the passenger side rear quarter panel. The Marines typically used the fording extension, while The army mainly used the short extension. I'll see if I can drum up some pictures or drawings to better serve your needs.
    REASON I ASKED IS the exh pipe right after header is awful close to the connection for clutch and brake where all the pivot points are less than couple of inches would think it woud get hot,,,brake assembly.jpg

  2. #612
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Close is alright. Pipe temperatures are not too bad, just don't repair a brake leak until the exhaust cools down.

    Here is some links to some folks with the same type of questions.

    http://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=89648

    http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modul...ewtopic&t=9472

    http://www.surplusjeep.com/M38A1/Ima...0-%20M38A1.jpg

  3. #613
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    Close is alright. Pipe temperatures are not too bad, just don't repair a brake leak until the exhaust cools down.

    Here is some links to some folks with the same type of questions.

    http://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=89648

    http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modul...ewtopic&t=9472

    http://www.surplusjeep.com/M38A1/Ima...0-%20M38A1.jpg
    damn, worried about something did not need to worry about, just thought it was awful close

  4. #614
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Much better to worry about something that turns out to be no big deal than the other way around!

  5. #615
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    there is a shield that separates the master cylinder from the heat source of the exh manifold pipe, due to its age it is probably asbestos, and it only shields the master cyl from heat. a new one costs 50.00 us dollars, i have the old one, it is somewhat beat up but usable. would you all use the old one?? could be replaced at a later date easy enough onlly two bolts secure it.
    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/new-mas...cj-3b-5-m38-a1

  6. #616
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The original shield will do just fine. If it does have asbestos then it will do a much better job of dispersing any heat away from the master cylinder. Somewhere in my stash, I have an old pair of asbestos welding gloves. They are the best gloves I have ever used. Most of the heeps I have dealt with, the heat shields were either missing, or rusted away.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 05-16-2018 at 06:04 AM.

  7. #617
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Busted exhaust studs and head bolts and other stuff...

    I'm hijacking a thread here, but this subject has come up so often I guess this is a good place to share it:

    https://www.hagerty.com/articles-vid...r-broken-bolts

    Of course this doesn't work as easily as the video with 800 pound cast iron blocks and broken exhaust studs...

  8. #618
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    transmission seal....
    been reading some unfortunate reports on the seal that kaiser provides for the front end of transmission, that is just fails> also was told that novak has a seal/bearing to replace the thing that is a upgrade. you guys know more of this than i do, and taking the transmission down i found that 1st/reverse gear has some damage. needs to replace, now this transmission bought separate from orignial motor so ii is quite possible that this has some damage unlike the motor....

  9. #619
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The sealing surface has a lot to do with the input shaft condition. I typically buy my seals from a place,(National Bearing) that sells bearings and seals. They can match up a national seal to match just about everything, and is a whole lot cheaper than a parts house. I don't have one close by to me currently, but is a couple of hours away. Novak would be high up on my list of vendors. They have well made fabricated parts, and keep good seals in stock. The unit bearing/seal would be cheap insurance to prevent you from having to tear out the transmission again.

  10. #620
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    "" cheap insurance to prevent you from having to tear out the transmission again.""THAT IS MY THOUGHT since i will be leaving this to either daughter of son , (will let them figure that out) dont want to not have it as correct and right as i can make it. think am going with novak

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