Page 21 of 252 FirstFirst ... 1119202122233171121 ... LastLast
Results 201 to 210 of 2512

Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #201
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    3,572
    If I remember history correctly, left handed threads on the driver's side of vehicles can trace it's beginnings to horse drawn wagon days. The direction of travel would prevent the hubs from loosening up. That was the standard through the early sixties, on some vehicles. Years ago, I started a collection of left handed lug nuts. There is no way to tell them apart without examining the threads. At least the studs have an L on the end of them. Both my wagon and CJ2A have mixed and matched studs on the left side. Each stud has to be looked at, when removing a wheel. What a pain in the rear. When I get the notion, I will change them all out. Now with that being said, will I change the left side to left handed thread? Depends on my mood. I doubt there are too many wheel thieves, that are out looking for steel Jeep wheels.

  2. #202
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    3,572
    You are correct. 24 VDC at the distributor, and fuel supply. As long as the points are hot, the engine will run.

  3. #203
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,261
    damn, i did remember.....

  4. #204
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,261
    anyone got a suggestion for some product i can put in the block (coolant side) to help clean it out while it sits for a while...not planning on rebuilding real quick. but pulled the thermostat out and its pretty cruddy in there...

  5. #205
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    3,572
    I haven't tried this stuff myself, but it could be worth a try. I don't know if it will get the calcium build up out or not, but bathroom cleaner CLR would help with that.

    Metal Rescue is a water based, environmentally friendly cleaner. It is supposed to be great at removing rust. Being water based, I don't know if one would want to coat the system with something to prevent rust from forming during storage.
    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Evapo-Rus...=sem#read-more

  6. #206
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,261
    WAS ALSO THINKING ABOUT CLR??? put it in and flush? then let dry dunno

  7. #207
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    2,484
    For the first start up, I'd just fill it with water so that if you have to open things up again, you can just drain it without having to catch and keep it or dispose of in an environmentally responsible manner (!~).

    Auto Zone gives 10% discount to vets...

    https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze-...ner/223022_0_0

    NAPA usually has Prestone stuff in stock as well.

    This cuts grease and oil as well as calcium and rust . Run it until it gets hot, let it sit for a day. Repeat daily for a couple of days - then dump it and flush!

  8. #208
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    3,572
    Yes, I would put in the CLR, then flush. The Metal Rescue, if it works as advertised, should remove any rust residue. Again, if it works, it should leave you with a grey coating on the iron surfaces. I didn't find anything stating that you would need to coat the surface to keep it that way. Once the oxidation is removed, I would think you would be good to go from there. It took 60 plus years to create any gunk, a year or two in storage won't hurt it. Cap the openings to keep out critters, then fog the cylinders. The engine will be ready for hibernation.

    The Prestone cooling system flush works well, but it relies on temperature and pressure. The biggest downside to the in chassis flush, is that most people do not remove the radiator. Unless you flush one way, then reverse the flow back the other way, (leave the lower radiator hose attached to the water pump. Then when reversing the flow back through the radiator, and flow out the lower hose) you do not get all the crud out. The particles become trapped in the radiator. Also the thermostat would need to be removed also. A lot of overheating issues are caused by crud being deposited in the radiator.

  9. #209
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,261
    And i found out once a flush can destroy seals in pumps, thought i needed to do that on my '49 ford coupe, all i did was screw up two water pumps, and they were a bitch to change out.
    Last edited by pelago; 11-16-2017 at 06:25 PM.

  10. #210
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    3,572
    At least the CLR will dissolve the calcium deposits. Flush is made to sell more antifreeze and parts.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •