Kaiser Willys Jeep Parts
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Thread: New guy here

  1. #51
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    Next question is in the brakes....the previous owner has cut the front brake lines and has run one line to each rear wheel, very sloppy at that. Didn't even use the rear hose just left the lines extra long for suspension travel. I assume one port from the master goes to the rear and the other to the front? What grade brake fluid is used? Thanks again guys!!

  2. #52
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    WOW!!! I would never do away with the front brakes. Most of the stopping power comes from them not to mention locking up the rear can cause a person to lose control. NOT SAFE!!! I currently run brakes on just the front (disc conversion). Mine has a plug in the port that would go to the rear.

    My service manual only goes to the DJ3 so telling to you to use dot 3 may easily be wrong.

  3. #53
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Transfer case takes mineral based 80W 90 gear lube. Synthetics are hard on the bronze bushings within the transmission and transfer case. The transmission and transfer case share oil, so fill at the transmission side plug until oil starts running out of the plug.... Then you know that the transfer case has enough oil.

    Dot 3 works well for general use. There is Dot 5 synthetic, but it requires the system to be flushed completely of Dot 3. They are not compatible. I use Dot 3 on my CJ2A, and have not had too many issues. There are folks that swear by Dot 5, but others who claim it is hard to bleed air from, and is hard on brake light switches. I would personally stick with Dot 3 on an older system.

  4. #54
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    Thanks again guys. Whoever had it before me just used It as a plow rig I would say. Also the fuel pump is a little electric one mounted to the fender...the plate covering the mechanical pump on the engine looks like it's been there for a long time, so I assume it ran good on the one that's there, anyone use an electric pump instead of the old mechanical ones?

  5. #55
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    I haven’t personally but I use to know guys who did. One even had one rigged with a hidden switch that he referred to as his “anti-theft device”. None of them ever had any trouble that I am aware of.

  6. #56
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I used a simple electric fuel pumps on all my derby cars. No problems what so ever. $40 and some change. Just make sure that the pump is mounted within 12" of the fuel source for best results.
    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...umps/parts/12S
    I would wire the pump separate from the ignition, so if the engine was flooded, or just wanted to run the carb out of gas, no problem. Then you can hide the switch for an added theft deterrent.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 02-13-2018 at 02:07 PM.

  7. #57
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    Thanks for the info, will probably run an electric pump, was curious on where to put it. I was thiking closer to the tank. Thanks

  8. #58
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The pumps are designed to push fuel, and not pull it. That's why they want them close to the source.

  9. #59
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    Thanks again guys, just trying to get a parts list put together as I start the long road ahead of body work. What grade engine oil should I use? And I assume 80-90 weight gear oil for the front and rear differentials?

  10. #60
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Engine oil that I use is a SAE 30 Non detergent oil. Tractor Supply caries it in a five or six quart jug. It is fairly inexpensive, and will not create leaks from cleaning out the protective sludge keeping the oil inside the engine. If it were a recently rebuilt engine, then you are free to use what you like. For those applications, I like to run SAE 30 Valvoline.

    80W-90 will work for the differentials, but have used 75W-140 synthetic for extreme duty, because that's what I keep around for the daily drivers.

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