New guy here

[gmwillys]

Check with Painless wiring. They offer fuse panels and harnesses for hot rods and customs. If you would like to go original style, then Kaiser should have something to fit your needs.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/categor...-v6-225-engine

http://www.painlessperformance.com/?...SAAEgJzrPD_BwE

[Ragsdale 85]

IMG_20180607_140211886.jpgIf only I had unlimited time and money.....

[Ragsdale 85]

Managed to get a couple hours in in the DJ this morning! Got the fuel tank installed, fuel line ran, and the fuel pump hooked up. I have it on accessory power with an in line toggle switch. Turn the key on, the pump runs, and pours out the carb? Stuck float? I haven't touched the carb yet. It is a Carter something or rather....

[LarrBeard]

A. Probably Carter YF.

B. Most Carters for F/L-134 only need about 1.5 PSI at fuel inlet to keep things happy. Electric pumps tend to run higher - depends on just which pump, but 8 PSI to 12 PSI would not be unusual, especially with low volume delivery.

C. I saw an F-134 this weekend (1950 4WD Model 473 pickup) with an electric fuel pump and an in-line pressure regulator set to about 1.5 PSI. The float and needle valve handle this very well.

D. Even with just a rebuilt mechanical pump, I needed to add a regulator to the F-134 in the '48. About 1.5 PSI perks along very nicely.

E. And, on top of all of that, it would not hurt to pull the top off the carburetor to see if things are stuck or if you have crud in the needle valve seat. It's only one fuel line fitting and about a half-dozen screws. Try to save the gasket.

F. It's a really simple carburetor to rebuild (just one dammit spring and clip on the accelerator pump shaft).

Don't worry about the accelerator pump just now, you don't need it working just right to fire the beast up. The idle mixture screw is the only external adjustment.

G. A carb kit, a couple of cans of carb or brake cleaner and an old toothbrush will do as good a job as the expensive shop. Google "Overhaul Carter YF Carburetor" and you will be an expert pretty quickly. Since it ran at one time in another life, don't worry too much about metering rods, high-altitude jet orifice sizes and such. Just clean up what you have. Use your wife's hair dryer to heat the body to get the old accelerator pump diaphragm out of the well, or let it sit full of xylene or lacquer thinner. It gets glued in there with 15+ years of varnish and shellac on it.

Good luck - let us know what happens....

[Ragsdale 85]

Thanks for the tip. I pulled the carb off and took the top half off, surprisingly it wasn't too bad in there pretty clean. The float seems to be in working order. I will have to try an in line regulator.

[LarrBeard]

The spec page sez all F-134 use Carter YF-651S/SA carburetors.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/tech-gu...ility-vehicles

If you can rig it safely, just a gravity feed "plasma bottle" (like an IV bottle on a pole) feed will work to let you get things running. A quart or so at a time is all you will need.

[IRQVET]

People recommend painless wiring harnesses. I went with the 12 circuit EZ wiring kit for half the price. Keep in mind which ever way you choose, they don't come with the factory wiring connections, so I'd explore other options unless your good with wiring.

My .02 cents

[Ragsdale 85]

Not real great with wiring, just the basics really. I have been looking at a Hot rod wiring page and they have broken it down nicely. Going to wire it all from scratch basically

[gmwillys]

I would recommend that you at least purchase a new fuse panel. Too many gremlins lurk in the old panel, and you will keep some sanity when starting with new piece.

http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...use+panel&sb=+

[LarrBeard]

Wiring isn't all that difficult and you will get better at it as you go along.

Some hints:

A. Use good quality wire. Wire is costly - it seems - but don't try to save money by going down a size or buying the cheapest Chinese wire you can find. You're only going to do this once.

B. Buy a good quality crimping tool. You are going to make a lot of crimps and every one needs to be right and tight.

C. Buy a good quality wire stripper. The little stripping notches on a lot of tools are NOT what you want to be using. Again, you are going to be making a lot of stripped ends. You don't want a bunch of nicked wires at the crimp lugs. Buy a good set of wire cutters too, and then don't use them to cut hardened stuff.

D. Practice on several crimp lugs and scrap wire ends to get the feel of stripping just enough insulation off the wire to have a little bit of wire poking through the end of the lug. Make sure the shoulder of the wire insulation is bottomed against the lug and the plastic sleeve covers the insulation. No bare wire sticking out of the wire end of the lug.

E. Make sure your lugs are the correct size for the wire you are using. Lugs that are too big won't crimp securely and too small a lug will end up with having to sacrifice wire strands to get the lug on the wire.

F. Oh yeah, at break out points, leave enough wire to get where you need to go. I hate to have to add in-line crimp splices to get that extra inch of wire.

You might want to try a trick we used when we had to build a cable assembly to go into aircraft retrofits. Take a piece of rope and lay it into the chassis where you want to run your cable. You can use it to try different routing to get around frames and such. At breakout points, use a cable tie to show that, for example, three # 14 wires break out of the cable here to go to the heater switch.

Then, once you have all of your wire breakouts marked, take the rope and lay it out on a bench or a piece of plywood. Use a marker to draw the rope and lay wires in along the markings. Use lots of cable ties and try to keep wires parallel - twists make wire bundles bigger.

And, don't hesitate to take it back apart if you don't like the way it looks. You've got a lot of time invested in making things work well, so take time on this.

Good luck!