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Thread: New guy here

  1. #71
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    When you run your replacement hat channel, (the 1" square tubing) one thing that comes to my mind to consider. When you drill for the mounting hardware, over bore the hole, and sleeve with section of pipe. This would add to the overall strength of the frame. Do you have to, no. Your 1" square is plenty strong, but the pipe will prevent water intrusion into your frame work. When I replaced the hat channel on the M38A1, the original hat channel was strengthened with pieces of white oak. Being that the heeps were never designed to last forever, that was a cheap and easy way to reduce costs. The down side, water soaked into the wood, and dissolved the hat channel from the inside out. Long story short, I didn't use any non ferrous material when fabricating the channel. I did cut some steel pipe spacers to prevent the hardware from deforming the channel when tightening. The channel received several coats of primer and rust preventative before being welded into place. Another quick tip for when you fuse the floor sheet metal to the sub frame, use weld through primer. The stuff works really well, in my opinion.

  2. #72
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    Thanks for the tip, didn't think about using a piece of pipe as an insert to keep it water tight...much appreciated. We will see what happens haven't quite decided on how to go about building the boxed frame yet but seems to be the best way to go about it. Trying to decide to go with 14 gauge or 16 gauge sheet metal.

  3. #73
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    18 gauge is the original thickness, but is hard to find in quantity. I would be comfortable to use 16 gauge because it would form better for the bends needed, but could see where you would want the 14. 14 Gauge will last longer, and offer more structural fortitude.

  4. #74
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    I have been working with a lot of 14 gauge lately building work benches, hangar doors and such. It’s easy to weld but hard to shape if it needs to be fitted by bending.

  5. #75
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    [ATTACH=CONFIG]2289[/ATTACHIMG_20180225_162929476.jpg didn't get much time in on the Jeep this weekend, but did manage to get most of the front flooring out.
    Last edited by Ragsdale 85; 02-26-2018 at 05:36 PM.

  6. #76
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    IMG_20180225_162957079.jpg hopefully will get more done next weekend.

  7. #77
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Looking good. Looks like the cowl supports and frame are in decent shape. The driver's side body mount,(where the clutch spring mounts) needs to be brought back into shape, but other than that, everything looks good. You'll have a good foundation for your new floor.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 02-27-2018 at 05:11 AM.

  8. #78
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    Thanks. Yeah will have to replace or strengthen up a few of the mounts for sure. Once I get the floors done I will be able to remove the body from the frame to take care of a few spots, the last foot or so of the driver's side needs replacing, and my rear spring mounts are in pretty bad shape.

  9. #79
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    Managed to get some time on the Ol' Jeep yesterday made some good progress. What is normally used as stops for the pedals, how far back should they be allowed to come?IMG_20180305_064030837.jpgIMG_20180305_063636627.jpg

  10. #80
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The clutch pedal stops at the floor board, when fully depressed. When the clutch is released, the lever that the pedal mounts to usually comes fairly close to the underside of the floor board, depending on free pedal adjustment. The clutch return spring will make a difference also on how far up the clutch returns upward. The brake pedal will typically make contact with the floor board when released. Originaly, there were light springs installed on the pedal stems to keep them from slamming into the floor board.

    Your progress is looking good.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 03-05-2018 at 07:35 AM.

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