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  1. #71
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Bolt on are the way to go. If down the road you want to change your design, then you can without doing surgery. Time spent on smoothing the frame now will keep you happy for a lifetime. I sectioned the front stub on my 2A, from the crossmember forward. The heep was used to plow snow, so the frame was both rotten and beat. Long story short, I missed finishing one weld under the frame on the passenger side. Every time I crawl up under, it bugs me.

    Great pictures! Now I'm jealous of both your shop and the forklift. Someday.

  2. #72
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Thanks gm!!!
    I really don’t really use the tow motor much because we have 2 electric 5 ton overhead hoist but they were tied up. My shop was a foundry before I bought it 15 years ago it was perfect for my line of work, 25’ ceilings, waste oil heat and 12,000 sf.
    My buddy that owned the Jeep 35 years ago that built his model A street rod told me “ take your time and do it right “
    So I’m “taking my time and doing it 2-3 times” but doing it right
    I Hope!!!!
    Last edited by TJones; 12-12-2018 at 07:46 PM.

  3. #73
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    You are doing just fine. Everything is trial and error. Non of us do things the exact same way. The great thing about heeps is that they came from the factory ready to customize. There is really no such thing as a factory original Jeep. Dealers and J.C. Whitney had a laundry list of aftermarket parts since day one in '41. A Jeep isn't like a Chevelle. As LarrBeard always says, what you see is what you have. Serial numbers are good enough to tell you when about a the Jeep was produced, but forget about engine serial numbers. Means almost nothing, except military or civilian.

    25' ceilings is nice to have for working on your equipment and trucks. I would imagine that the building is well insulated, since it was a foundry?
    I built a home shop almost 20 years ago. The walls were 12' tall, with vaulted ceilings. I found out who my friends were at the time. Minus the concrete, we drove every nail. One wall was pallet racking to the top of the wall with engines, transmissions, rear ends and driveshafts. I had complete Chrysler and Chevy drivetrains ready to drop in the next car. My snowmobile had its own shelf, above the pool table on car skates. I didn't have a tow motor, but sure could have used one. I have gotten my money's worth out of my engine hoist.

  4. #74
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    I have a question for the Wise Ones.
    Did Jeep make a steering knuckle that had 2 tie rod holes on the passenger side on any make or model that would bolt up to my Dana 25 axle?
    I’m wanting to put chrome heim joints in lieu of tie rod ends, and the passenger side only has 1 tie rod hole in the steering knuckle.
    I want to put 1 tie rod from left to right and one from the power steering box to the passenger side in another hole.

  5. #75
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    For the life of me, I don't remember how my wagon is set up. It has the Saginaw slosh box mounted to the driver's side frame horn, and I think the drag links were flipped over to bring it toward the pitman arm. I'll look to see what I can find out for you.

  6. #76
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Ok, the answer for your question is the Willy's M38A1, international scout 80 and 800 with the Dana 27. According to Kaiser's, our wagon has been modified to the twin mount knuckle. You can look through the gallery to see how my wagon is set up. I like the idea of the heim joints. That should reduce the chance of the dreaded death wobble.

  7. #77
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Yes Sir that is exactly what I’m looking for, not sure if someone just drilled another hole or it is something I can buy somewhere.
    It looks like there is room on the stock knuckle to machine another hole closer to the axle. 0DAEF741-594F-455C-9530-4987916C2581.jpgDDD589D1-F285-47EE-B08F-196FF7D9EC1D.jpg
    Last edited by TJones; 12-14-2018 at 05:27 AM.

  8. #78
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    After thinking about this subject over night, and fact checking today, the Dana 44 knuckle will fit the Dana 25/27. That should open up the ability to scrounge a knuckle to fit. Also, I was incorrect, or at least Google was on the M38A1 having the knuckle desired. Some wagoneers had them but more in the I.H Scouts and Scout II.

  9. #79
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Thanks gm
    I just emailed Mike at Kaiser to see if he could help me find one, i found 2 on Ebay for $200 but the drivers side I have is like new and Kaiser's have single hole passenger sides for $64.00.
    Lets see what Mike comes up with.
    I even checked on the 64 truck that I got the 11" brakes from and they were single hole as well, but your right they are more common on the scouts.

  10. #80
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Too bad the market on Scouts is through the roof. I can't believe what people are paying for some of the rust piles on Ebay. To have been smart 20 years ago and stocked up on them when they were a dime a dozen. Same goes for square body chevys.

    I know my wagon inherited a bunch of parts from the first generation Wagoneer, but never thought about the front axle. I need to look closer at it when the weather dries up. I know the rear axle is stock. The knuckle was most likely added when the steering was added. I know I have a couple knuckles in the back of the shed, but they came off a CJ2A. But one never knows what you have until you study it.

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