I have a 1950 Willys station wagon I got about two week ago was going to get it running then work on the body. The motor is lock up now I don't know if I should find a motor that I can put in it or should I take the body and put on a different chassis someone told me a s-10 was a good way to go.
Which engine does it have, the flathead L-134 or the overhead valve F-134?Originally Posted by samsam
Yeah - a locked up engine is a bummer, but sometimes it isn't as bad as it seems. Several of us have put together ideas we have found that help in getting old engines perking again. Here is the struck engine part:
Next, pull the spark plugs and put in a few ounces of engine oil/transmission fluid/ and a good dose of penetrating oil into each cylinder. Do this before attempting to turn the engine by hand. A word of caution; place a shop towel over the exposed spark plugs holes to catch any oil from running down the side of the F head and you don’t want stuff falling down in spark plug holes in an L-head. Let the engine sit with the concoction for a half hour or so, in order for the penetrating oil to seep into the rings. There could be twenty years of crud in there that will bind the rings to the cylinder wall.
While you wait, remove the tappet cover on the driver's side, and lube the cam shaft and tappets. Everything in there is going to be dry and dirty. Inspect for broken springs, or damaged valves. At this time, adjust the fan belt to where it is snug in the water pump and generator pulleys.
Use the fan to carefully rock the engine back and forth. Resist the urge to use a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley. If it takes that much effort to turn the engine, there are problems. If the engine turns freely, then continue to turn the engine through several times until both the compression and exhaust strokes have been completed. Pay special attention to any noises or a feel of something hanging up the rotation. On the F head engines, pull the valve cover to ensure that the intake valves are cycling fully.
Rings can stick to cylinder walls when moisture works its way in through open valves. That leaves a ring of corrosion around the cylinder, but if you are going to rebuild the engine, it usually cleans up with a standard overbore. Even a seized up bearing isn't a disaster unless it totally ate up the crank.
Then there is the total aaaawww-pooh; a rod thrown into the block.
Give it a shot and let us know what you find.
Thanks for the information I will give this a try and let you know what happen
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