Your axles should hold around two quarts. Any GL5 85-90w oil will do for the axles, since they are not picky. The transmission and T-case need "safe for yellow metal".
The tub looks great in black. The pie cuts on the shock mounts worked out good too. Looking good 56.
It is looking great 56' Here is a link for lubes.
https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...d-transmission
https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...ox-Lubrication
https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...se-Lube-Levels
https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...ight-Motor-Oil
Thank you, I'll get some oil and get the axle lube changed. I like Bmorgils writeups, you have alot more knowledge about oil then I thought was possible, but lubrication will make or break an engine.
Another thing, (I've been randomly thinking about oil for some reason) but, in the engine I run Napa 30 wt. non detergent oil. I just thought, should I add some zinc additive?
Last edited by 56willys; Yesterday at 06:44 PM.
Thanks 56', I enjoy your project! Zinc is required in your engine. I would run a conventional 30 weight or a 10W-30 engine oil that contains Zinc, rather than add it. Zinc has its own issues. Too much Zinc is not a good thing in an engine either.
I would not use a Non-Detergent oil. I would stick to an oil that has a Zinc additive, and meets the spec of at least SF. You don't want the high detergent of a diesel oil, but you do need some to keep the build up off the rings. A lot of guys use a combination oil like Rottela. Just remember an oil with high detergent doesn't perform well at high RPM's. It has a tendency to foam and this will ruin the bearings. Rotella combination oil has a formulation that helps with this. High RPM's is something you wont need to worry about anyway!
Here is a cheap oil that you can get at Wall Mart sometimes or Amazon. I haven't used it but I do know persons who have. It seems to meet all the requirements as well as low cost.
https://www.amazon.com/ACCEL-22500-S...ews/B0052KY6TE
Last edited by bmorgil; Today at 06:36 AM.
Good fix on the shock mounts. The isn't much a big saw, a hammer and a welder won't fix. The body looks great too !
The oil must come from the same place that Milodon thermostats do:
Accel 22500 SAE 10W-30 SF Motor Oil - 1 Quart Bottle (Case of 12)
Brand: ACCEL
3.8 3.8 out of 5 stars 11 ratings | Search this page
Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.
Doc Dana has previously recommended Valvoline VR-1 as a good oil for our little engines that want zinc in their diet. It's a bit pricey, but why tempt fate after all the work that goes into a restoration.
I guess I'll do an oil change and put in different oil. The non detergent was recommended when I first got the jeep. The oil was foaming and getting weird, I filled it up with non detergent and now it's been fine since. I don't know?
Also I got the new pedals yesterday. And I noticed the old setup had this long bolt running through the cross shaft with the large nut on the end. Now any video or any thing I've seen including my parts jeep, nothing has the bolt, they just have cotter pins holding the brake pedal in place and that's it. I can't have cotter pins and the bolt both. Any explanation for this? Maybe a Bubba field repair?
And I went to put the rear hubs back together and realized the only socket I have big enough is ¾ drive, so I don't have a torque wrench that will work. I'll check at the store tonight and see if I can find something either a socket or an adapter. But if i cant would it hurt anything to just give it a couple ugga duggas, and a grunt, and make it "tight" foot pounds?
Thank you guys again for the help, you're really eliminating a lot of head scratching for me!
Bubba engineering could definitely be in the works on the clutch shaft. It needs to be right or you will have trouble.
Many soldiers when they heard the infamous clicking or clunking of the axle nut coming loose, applied "ugga duggas". Use a 3/4 to 1/2" adapter if your torque wrench is 1/2". The "ugga dugga" will get you home unless you give it too much and strip the nut, something that is very hard to do. Always best to torque it if you can. 150 Ft Lbs is a lot. It is good to know you hit the number.
I'll put things back how it's supposed to be, the thing that had me puzzled is the nut on the end is hollow inside to hold grease. And everything about it just looks like a factory setup, maybe Bubba had a machine shop and did a complex field fix! I'll put it back how it's supposed to be, the only problem is the washers that go between the pedal and cotter pin. I dint get them because I thought I had enough on the old setup but I don't. So hopefully I can find some locally, or if not I'll make some washers for know, I don't want to wait on shipping.Originally Posted by bmorgil
If it's okay I'll just tighten the hub up for know, and when I find an adapter I'll pop of the dust cover and give it a good torque. On some other vehicles in the family we torque lug nuts to 100 ft lbs. so my arm is calibrated to know that much torque pretty well, then I'll give it alittle more...
Another thing (I know, here comes that kid with all the questions) but I haven't gotten exhaust piping yet and the old exhaust has the original downpipe then a pipe running back to the rear axle. The problem is the long pipe is 2" diameter so there's a big gap around the downpipe. So my question is would it be okay to run with just the downpipe? I don't really understand exhaust flow technology but would just the downpipe have enough scavenging that I don't torch the exhaust valves?
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