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Thread: T 90 transmission problems

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  1. #1
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Steve, it looks like you have graduated to T90 trans technician! I always assemble them completely and run them through the gears a few times on the bench. The trans should shift with minimal effort with "The Stick" attached. The sychros can be difficult to engage with the cover off and a pry bar or fingers. It needs to shift however. If it spins freely and you can get it to engage all the gears and spin freely, put the cover and the stick on and run it through the gears. It should feel like a new transmission. It should not be difficult to shift if you are spinning it over and lining up the gears, with the shifter. Keep in mind the shifter has quite a bit of leverage over the sychro. It makes engaging the sychro much easier. This is also why you shouldn't drive with your hand on the stick. All that leverage will wear the shift forks down.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 04-23-2024 at 08:14 AM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    Steve, it looks like you have graduated to T90 trans technician! I always assemble them completely and run them through the gears a few times on the bench. The trans should shift with minimal effort with "The Stick" attached. The sychros can be difficult to engage with the cover off and a pry bar or fingers. It needs to shift however. If it spins freely and you can get it to engage all the gears and spin freely, put the cover and the stick on and run it through the gears. It should feel like a new transmission. It should not be difficult to shift if you are spinning it over and lining up the gears, with the shifter. Keep in mind the shifter has quite a bit of leverage over the sychro. It makes engaging the sychro much easier. This is also why you shouldn't drive with your hand on the stick. All that leverage will wear the shift forks down.
    Thank you, if you ever venture to the big apple I owe you lunch...... There is nothing like assembling the entire trans and finding the C clip for the main shaft which is exactly what I did LOL
    Id like to fabricate something to hold that rear cover plate and rear bearing in place and than I could shift the gears without the mainshaft backing out. I learned it does not have to back out very far to screw up the syncros. Thanks again for the help

  3. #3
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    When your shifting it without the transfer case and drive gear on the main shaft, it will move around. You can take a metal strap and put it across two bolt holes and over the edge of the bearing to hold it firmly in the case.

    Now lunch in the Big Apple... that sounds like a great time!
    Last edited by bmorgil; 04-23-2024 at 09:31 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    When your shifting it without the transfer case and drive gear on the main shaft, it will move around. You can take a metal strap and put it across two bolt holes and over the edge of the bearing to hold it firmly in the case.

    Now lunch in the Big Apple... that sounds like a great time!
    Pretty much exactly what I just did. Trans shifts better than last rebuild so in it goes

  5. #5
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    It sounds like you have it now Steve. Watch that back man! I know you didn't want to crawl under there again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    It sounds like you have it now Steve. Watch that back man! I know you didn't want to crawl under there again.
    I finished it up today, cross member in, driveshafts hooked up, adjusted the clutch.....Started it up, (jeep is up on jack stands) ran it through gears and no noise and shifted good
    Im a happy camper today.
    I learned a few things along the way. When I pulled the trans, transfer case was off, I left the bell housing on, when I went to put the fork on I than realised why the bell housing comes off with the trans
    I tried and tried to get that fork on through the clutch inspection cover, I dropped it into the bottom of the bell housing several times, using a magnet to retrieve it
    Finally what I did was I tacked a 1/8 steel rod on the very end of the fork, just a slight tack and dont weld the steel rod all the way around.
    Pushing the throw out bearing forward with one hand, I was able to maneuver the fork behind those tangs and unto the ball. Than twist the rod back and forth to break it off
    I guess a little unorthodox but for me it was better than pulling everything apart

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