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Thread: My first vehicle! 1956 CJ5

  1. #341
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The project is looking very good 56'! I believe you have brought Flossy back in a solid way. The paint looks just right. Taking them to a get together is what its all about. Even if its a small event, that Jeep will get you outside!

    The axle shaft nut on tapered deign axle shafts, is a spot that always needs a look. They are Notorious for coming loose. When they do they usually shear the key in the shaft. A Minimum of 150 Ft. Lbs. of torque 56', you can take it to a Max of 175 Ft. Lbs.. The Wheel to Hub torque is 60 - 75 Ft. Lbs..
    Last edited by bmorgil; 05-11-2024 at 06:49 AM.

  2. #342
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    I usually measure the diameter of the stud and google the lug nut torque if I don’t have it readily available in a manual.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  3. #343
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The primer looks good. Again, for a first timer, you are doing a great job! Axle nuts are one of those items that need to be checked from time to time. Whenever I have a wheel off the ground during maintenance, I check the hubs for play, and then adjust if needed. I don't ever remeber having a dust cap rust on anything that was road worthy. Sure, if an axle was laying in the mud, but not when it was sitting on wheels. Even working around salt sheds, (We kept our trailers and etc. when not in use in the salt shed until fall) we still didn't have one rot out.

  4. #344
    Senior Member 56willys's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    I don't ever remeber having a dust cap rust on anything that was road worthy. Sure, if an axle was laying in the mud, but not when it was sitting on wheels. Even working around salt sheds, (We kept our trailers and etc. when not in use in the salt shed until fall) we still didn't have one rot out.
    The crazy thing is, my junkyard parts jeep which is COMPLETELY rusted literally everywhere. And had been sitting buried in the mud at the end of a driveway for probably 20 years. The dust caps were fine on it, I cleaned them up and got some paint and they are perfect, so I'll put them on flossy. It never ceases to amaze me how metal oxidation works, it never makes sense!

  5. #345
    Senior Member 56willys's Avatar
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    Thank you guys! When spraying the primer, I definitely made some mistakes and got a lot of runs in it. But like gm said for a first time, i can totally accept it, and if my first paint job was perfect, then I wouldn't be able to improve. Granted I did it at 10 o clock at night in the side yard with a couple lights just enough so I could see what I was doing. But, I got to get it done sometime!


    Thanks for the info on the torque spec. I'll clean the hub up, smear on some fresh grease, and tighten it up. I don't need a wheel falling off!

    Yesterday I got the axles and leaf springs painted, so now everything but the engine/tranny (which won't get painted yet) is painted on the chassis.


    I removed all the u bolts, and ordered replacements, however the rears are too wide, so according to my usual fate the simplest job has more issues than the hardest job!

    Another question; does the rear axle have a breather? I know the front does, but there's nothing on the back and KW and any other website/youtube video doesn't seem to show the rear end having a breather. But my diff cover has a hole in the top, but it looks like it was crudely chisled through, or knowing Flossy rusted through. I put a rubber plug in it just to keep junk out while I'm working.

  6. #346
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I don't remember if the Dana 44 has the vent on the differential cover or on the top of the axle tube. If yours does not have a vent in the cover, then there should be a vent hose attached to the rear brake line junction on the top of the axle tube. The stud that the brass union is mounted to is hollow, and typically has a barb on top for a hose to attach. Sometimes there is just a brass cap on top of the union that keeps out dirt but not water. I did some further digging, and I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for in regard to Willys, but International Scout also runs a 44 axle.

    https://www.binderplanet.com/forums/...r-bolt.138561/
    Last edited by gmwillys; 05-13-2024 at 12:40 AM.

  7. #347
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The breather was in the cover on the model 41 and early Salisbury stuff. Later when the 44 appeared, the 44 has the breather as a hollow bolt holding the brake block down as in gm's link to the Scout axle.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 05-13-2024 at 06:38 AM.

  8. #348
    Senior Member 56willys's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, I'll have to get a bolt for the diff cover and run a hose. Then I'll probably just plug the hole in the cover. I checked my spare 44 and it doesn't have anything.

  9. #349
    Senior Member 56willys's Avatar
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    Flossy is back in black. I painted the floors today, just sprayed some majic tractor paint thinned 8 parts to 1. It actually looks pretty good, I tried to spray it on pretty thick to be more durable, but that kind of took away some looks.

    I also got the front shock mounts done, I ended up cutting the sides so it was easier to bend. Then I rewelded the notches and welded them to the frame. So all is good, the pedals are supposed to be here today, then I can get that dialed. It won't be long know!!
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  10. #350
    Senior Member 56willys's Avatar
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    So I've never changed axle fluids yet, I need to before I go on the road. Just wondering what I should use, I know I've heard good things about using corn head grease in the knuckles. But what should I run in the diffs, and how much do they take?

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