well, the darn thing is out

[pelago]

hmmm thought i had already posted this, but seems to have screwed it up so will try again here are three photos of the *** end of the jeep, as can see it is messed up with even a bigt *** hole in the middle, and my welding skills are basically non existent, can see the gobs of chewing gum i put on the one place.... now there is a place few miles away where i believe i can get odd pieces of flat 20 guage and maybe 18 gauge steel remnants can get a 4'X8' sheet of cold rolled steel but that is a lot and just do not need that much.. but?? repair or replace ($450.00) the one photo shows the middle where for some reason someone cut a big *** hole in it and must have had the flash too close but the hole is pretty dam big




332033213322

[gmwillys]

The key to welding sheet metal is to make a series of spot welds. Start at one side, weld a spot a couple inches apart, then go to the other side and repeat. This keeps from warping the steel, and causing you headaches. When you have all your welds two inches apart, then you can spot weld in between, following the same strategy, until the weld is connected all the way around. It takes a while to complete, but it will turn out well.
Are you using flux core wire in your mig? If so, it takes a bit more heat to lay down a good weld. When you get the copper, you can back the weld surface to help disipate the heat, and to help bridge the gap.

[pelago]

Actually i am not even sure how to set up the welder, which position to have current, for thick metal, for thin metal, know its all different, have a 110v welder but am so so inexperienced think i might get my neighbor to give me some classes.. NOT GOING TO GORP UP THE NEW BODY PIECES...

On another note, this might be the most important body piece i have, as far as getting a clear title. it is the original Willys ID Tag taken right off the old right wheel well and waiting to go on the new well at the same place serial#17429 made in first year of production



3323

[pelago]

The key to welding sheet metal is to make a series of spot welds. Start at one side, weld a spot a couple inches apart, then go to the other side and repeat. This keeps from warping the steel, and causing you headaches. When you have all your welds two inches apart, then you can spot weld in between, following the same strategy, until the weld is connected all the way around. It takes a while to complete, but it will turn out well.
Are you using flux core wire in your mig? If so, it takes a bit more heat to lay down a good weld. When you get the copper, you can back the weld surface to help disipate the heat, and to help bridge the gap.




yeah but would you repair the rear end section or replace it,,,, over 400 for new piece

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/category/body/repair-panels/tailgate-repair/rear-center-steel-weld-in-body-panel-fits-52-71-m38a1

[gmwillys]

Being that the "tailgate" was cut out, I would most likely pay the $400. That will cover all the rear panel, plus you will have the supports in place, and the tail light recess.

[pelago]

am thinking along the same lines,,,,, big *** hole cut out of the middle 15"X15" wonder why this done, and then someone bastardized both ends with a new cutout for tail lights. and it is bend in the middle, take a ton of restoration, and lots and lots of welding, and i already have the new back deck flooring priced in,,, mine is so so thin and full of holes, jst not a repairable item. and with new rear section with braces can fit in the new two sections together as soon as i have a body on it i am to call the NC DMV inspector and then get a surety bond from insurance company and then can create a title. can get insurance that alows 1200 miles a month for a great price. boy am i glad i got that willys plate with serial number on it.....

[51 CJ3]

Actually i am not even sure how to set up the welder, which position to have current, for thick metal, for thin metal...

There should be a chart on the welder or in the instructions for the welder to give good starting points. It just takes a little practice to get decent results. The first time I used a mig welder I borrowed one to build a 40 foot door out of 14 gauge material. There is a huge difference between the welds where I started and where I finished but I haven’t welded much since. I expect my next few welds will look like my first few. Adding a cheater lens to my helmet helped a lot.

[pelago]

There should be a chart on the welder or in the instructions for the welder to give good starting points. It just takes a little practice to get decent results. The first time I used a mig welder I borrowed one to build a 40 foot door out of 14 gauge material. There is a huge difference between the welds where I started and where I finished but I haven’t welded much since. I expect my next few welds will look like my first few. Adding a cheater lens to my helmet helped a lot.

yeah, the helmet and lense just do not give a picture of what i am doing, so so damn dark all i see is the arc and can not even see the work area at all and my lines go all over the place, when i think i did a good weld i look without helmet and i see that my weld line wandered all over the freakin place. i have a lot of scrap 20 gauge now and will try to practice on that some

[LarrBeard]

...it is the original Willys ID Tag taken right off the old right wheel well and waiting to go on the new well at the same place serial#17429 made in first year of production

99.9% of the time I prefer to put things back where they were originally, but for an original tag like that one, I don't know if I would put it in the fender well. Maybe on the fire wall or somewhere that it is well protected from any damage.

What the hay ... upper left corner of the panel so you can show it off easily!

[pelago]

99.9% of the time I prefer to put things back where they were originally, but for an original tag like that one, I don't know if I would put it in the fender well. Maybe on the fire wall or somewhere that it is well protected from any damage.

What the hay ... upper left corner of the panel so you can show it off easily!



that is where the ID tag is, at least says the manual, says it is visible on passenger side on the fender. measured the holes and re drilled holes is same spot for tag. as my instructor said "its in the book"

but todays project more spot welds removed from wheel well fender. in 27 linear inches i removed 35 spot welds yuk

[gmwillys]

I would put the tag back where it belongs. The tag is protected when the seat is in place, and visible when the seat is flipped forward. Even if you didn't have the original tag, Kaiser Willys and most other outlets sells blank reproduction serial number tags, that can be either hand stamped as the original, or taken to a trophy shop to be engraved. The original body stamping should be on the driver's side toe board gusset, facing the back side of the inner fender. Good to verify the tag and body number matches. Also, the dash nomenclature will have the serial number stamped in it. Often these plates are missing.

The harbor freight automatic welding good works every bit as good as a professional Speedglass helmet that goes for $300. I have had expensive helmets, but they eat batteries. The harbor special works off solar power. Both are adjustable for different shades for different applications. MIG requires a lighter shade that a stick welder does. The autodarkener starts off clear, then within a fraction of a second, it darkens to the shade selected. You don't have to flip the hood up and down between arcs.

The welder settings depends on your material used. I use a Miler Matic 110 vac welder with .035 solid core Esab wire. The shielding gas is argon 75/25%. I keep the heat up, and adjust the wire speed to cope with the thickness of the steel being welded. The welder does well with up to 1/4" steel, but is at home working with sheet metal.

[51 CJ3]

yeah, the helmet and lense just do not give a picture of what i am doing, so so damn dark all i see is the arc and can not even see the work area at all and my lines go all over the place, when i think i did a good weld i look without helmet and i see that my weld line wandered all over the freakin place. i have a lot of scrap 20 gauge now and will try to practice on that some

I have that same problem even with good overhead lighting. A well placed, bright, work light shining on what I am trying to weld helps me. I also started wearing dark shirts when welding. Lighter colors were reflecting light into the hemet which in turn was being reflected by the helmet into my face.

I am currently using a Lincoln helmet with an auto-darkening lens I bought new for $45. I think I can also adjust how dark it gets. I started with a cheaper brand but my eyes were always getting flashed. I never could keep lined up with an old school helmet that had to be raised and lowered.

[pelago]

I have that same problem even with good overhead lighting. A well placed, bright, work light shining on what I am trying to weld helps me. I also started wearing dark shirts when welding. Lighter colors were reflecting light into the hemet which in turn was being reflected by the helmet into my face.

I am currently using a Lincoln helmet with an auto-darkening lens I bought new for $45. I think I can also adjust how dark it gets. I started with a cheaper brand but my eyes were always getting flashed. I never could keep lined up with an old school helmet that had to be raised and lowered.
got a lot to learn about this welding, last time i welded in reality was high school metal shop in 1960

[pelago]

???e driver's side toe board gusset this it??3324

[pelago]

"if i ever say i am going to remove a fender well, please take me out to the back 40 and shoot me. Four days and last weld out and well is gone, but i saved one of the support brackets, the one in front has some rust hope kaiser has a substitute. Was able to remove all the welds on the main support bracket and it is still in there waiting for the new fender well to go in................

[gmwillys]

That is it. The original body number serial number is stamped on the vertical surface of the toe board gusset.

All the spot welds help hold the Jeep together for the severe duty it was designed to handle. I still think the body builders were paid by the spot weld. I prefer for the garage to be fairly dark when welding. I do not like to have overhead lighting when working on a body, because the light reflects on the inside of the hood.

[pelago]

Wire brushed it and no number?? Oh well got the original id

[gmwillys]

That's interesting. As you said, as long as you have the tag, you are alright.

[pelago]

That's interesting. As you said, as long as you have the tag, you are alright.

and the body i am using is the one that had the tag and also the numberless bracket, oh well done many years ago and wth it is all that the DMV guys care about and is real and i showed the inspector the page in the manual where the ID tag located and he said, well it is supposed to be on the frame, and i reminded him that this thing build 35yrs before he was born. he agreed. that is all i care, and that is to get a good title and have numbers match

[pelago]

this is the bracket i need to replace, looks like a straight 90 degree and not very big, might get a bigger one and cut down?? this goes right behind the passenger seat and inside the fender and has another piece bolted from outside, might have something to do with seat, this tub did not have that piece but the other one does and i will remove that one and use on this one. Went outside and checked the other hull, and there is a ID tag at same location, will remove tomorrow and take a look but on same precise spot, and the bracket was so rusted no way i could see any numbers, in fact it was mostly gone

would this be the right bracket??
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/passenger-side-spare-tire-corner-reinforcement-fits-55-71-cj-5-m38a1


33263325

[gmwillys]

It will work fine for the application. The short end will be a a couple inches shorter, but will still work.

[pelago]

It will work fine for the application. The short end will be a a couple inches shorter, but will still work.

aint cheap $70.00 us dollars

[gmwillys]

No it isn't. I had gotten a hold of a couple of pieces of chanel that was the same size height and width. I made most of the support pieces by heating and tacking to a table. Probably didn't have $50 in both pieces.

[pelago]

not far from my house is a steel place and they sell all kinds of stuff. might be worth a day to go down there and take some crap pieces and just see. am sure that there will be more to do. But good news was able to rough fit in the new wheel well, and its gonna work, lot of the holes that had welded on nuts are not there but wth, can figure that out later.. and since i was rough fitting the thing in for sure this is not a one person deal to get the thing in. But am getting the hull ready to sandblast to white and want all the preliminary stuff done, that is all the crap removed and ready for new pieces, but sand blast before weld. that is the plan anyway

[pelago]

DAMN, DAMN DAMN. Kaiser just called that bracket no longer available will have to go to machine shop or fabricator to have made

[pelago]

On the A1 we had, it was three layers of olive. The motor pool would just slap another layer on top of the other. Red was most likely was for a fire department after being discharged from service. The yellow was likely Civil Defense after the fire department used it. Black was probably the first civilian owner for who knows what reason. The nylon brushes I use are good for eating off one layer of paint if careful. You might be able to get the i.d. number or bumper number. It would be interesting to see if the fire department name was painted on the hood. Then you could contact the department. They keep really good records on their equipment, plus might have photos of your Jeep while in service. Too bad the government keeps crap for records. To this day, we have no idea on what has been done out in the field.

I'll get a picture of the copper chunk I'm going to send your way. Private message me your address, and I'll get it out to you this week.
got it and thanks again

[gmwillys]

No problem at all. That one should do alright for you.

[pelago]

did not want to do it, but the other hull i have had a bracket in it and 20lbs of bondo on the fender? cut it out and have one that is serviceable, will get it sandblasted and primed, got two small rust holes in it but feel i can cover those up

[gmwillys]

You have to do what you have to do. It's tough to scavenge parts from an otherwise serviceable hull. I was proud to have two hulls that were too far gone in different places. The yeild was almost all the sheet metal that was needed, sans the passenger floor, tool box front, and the fuel tank well. Everything else was either original tin or cold rolled stock.

[pelago]

there was a comment about the rear seat mounts, as long as i match up mounts distance with from same points will be okay?? one came out when i destroyed the inside wheel well but have it and got to remove the spot welds (oh joy) from the scrap MAN I WISH I KNEW WHAT I WAS DOING AM MAKING THIS UP AS I GO ALONG. MECHANICAL PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD BUT BODY WORK......................My neighbor gave me a box of body hammers, (too bad he did not give me the experience and knowledge as to how to use them) but i have fumbled around a bit and actually worked out some dents and ripples left over from drilling out welds and old dents (well to be honest made them look better anyway), one thing i really want to do is have a flat fender wall without ripples and that might take a expert body shop to do that

[gmwillys]

Body work is a series of brute force and finesse. On dolly and off dolly, I'm still working on my technique. It does take a lot of practice. I was hoping to straighten out my wagons driver's side fender. I fear the metal is too thin to salvage. It has been heated over and over by the previous owner, so the metal is thin and brittle. Still trying to find one that is rusted out, so I can salvage the crown from the leading edge.
As far as the rear seat mount, measure one side and make the other side match. If you have a back seat, place it. In position. Check the measurements, and run a level across the seat frame, then check with the floor. Make them match.

[pelago]

received my floor piece that i had been missing!.. bead blasted it and now has a coat of primer on it. QUESTION... HAS ANYONE EVER BAKED PAINT ON A PIECE THAT YOU ARE WORKING ON. I HAVE DONE IT AND FEEL IT IMPROVES THE PAINT. I BAKED ON ENAMEL ON THE ROSS STEERING BOX, BAKED ON RUSTOLEUM WHITE INSIDE THE BELL HOUSING AND OTHER ODDS AND ENDS LIKE THE OIL FILTER. ONCE THE PAINT IS DRY TO THE TOUCH I PUT IT IN MY OVEN AND HIT IT WITH 350 FOR SEVERAL HOURS, SEEMS TO REALLY MAKE THE PAINT STRONG . THE BELL HOUSING A DRILL WITH WIRE BRUSH DID NOT TOUCH THE PAINT, HAD TO REALLY REALLY STRAIN TO GET THRU IT. J ust passing this one i guess

[gmwillys]

Heat does improve the curing process. A good warm sunny day does work as well, but takes around three days depending on hardener used and color. Only a few of the married folks could get away with using the kitchen over to bake the paint on heep parts... I remember the looks my Grandmother would give when Grandpa would vulcanize tubes at the kitchen table, then check them for leaks in the sink. He also was known for fixing his chainsaw at the table. At least he laid down an old towel.

[pelago]

making some progress, am so so close to loading up and getting sand blasted... now replacing the brace piece, the one that stabilizes it allunder passenger side..... this is slow, one weld at a time to release the old rusted one. have the new wheel well ready to go, and have the other fender well ready to be sandblasted. am leaving 25% of the rear end on for stability in putting in trailer, don't want it to get torqued so will have my guy sand blast all that is left. then prime it and start replacing with the new pieces. actually feeling kind of anxious, and have to remember that the only way to do this is slow, methodical work, do it right the first time and will be better off in the end. actually spent some time on each and every bolt hole that has the nut welded on, all were pretty rusty, so i took a tap and some oil and cleaned them out, went to the farmers market and bought 15.00 worth of #8 hard bolts to replace all the bad ones, got new sheet metal screws also (had to go with stainless) but damnit am still getting "hurry up anxiety to see it on the jeep" got to watch that

3348334933503351

[pelago]

more and i put in a photo of the new center section that i got off internet (smile) and it was bead blasted, primed and then i had to had to paint the little piece that goes on there and put on some olive, that way i cans say that little area 5" X 4" is ready to go
335233533354

[gmwillys]

Looks outstanding! You are doing good to fight off the urge to hurry through it.

Tractor Supply also has grade 8 hardware by the pound. I've used it for a long time, and have never had an issue. I will buy a pound or two every time I go in there, just to refill my bins.

[pelago]

yeah me too on the #8's bought a bunch the other day.
now new topic. i managed to get the old passenger side brace, the one that goes from top of body to the floor. my god was there ever a bunch of spot welds and have my hands full now repairing all the holes, will use some of them of course to weld the new brace in, but here is the question. can someone measure the distance from the top of the brace to the floor, I think that the assembly at least for mine will be install the new passenger side floor first, then fit in the brace and weld. the very top 1 1/2 of the brace had to be cut off with a dremel tool and the new one will have to be adjusted to that length.. hope i explained it correctly !. New passenger side floor. 2. weld in new brace to reach the new floor. 3. weld in the new overlay for the outside fender repair (after i cut the hole in it for that curcular section that i have no idea what it is for)
COMMENTS PLEASE, HELP PLEASE ALL THIS IS SO SO SO VERY NEW TO ME..................

[gmwillys]

The circular indent was for the shore power connector. Think of it as the port,(2pins) that the armed forces used to jump start the Jeep or run the radio set without running the engine.

You are correct. Just run a string line in place of the body rocker panel to ensure everything stays within the body. If the floor stays square with the body, you'll have her licked. The string line run on the outside of the vertical brace for the cowl, to the remainder section of the rear quarter panel. The nice thing about an A1 compared to an earlier Jeep, is that the dimensions are pretty square. The early Willys all tapered toward the front fenders. After the floor is in place, then the hat channel support will fall into place.

You are doing an outstanding job. Just take your time. Measure and screw the panels together, check and triple check. Walk away, have a cup of coffee, the look at it some more. You may want to think about placing the body back on the spare frame to ensure all the mount points are still in spec. I had two frames and one CJ frame to use as a jig to tack everything in place, then put the body on a cart so it could be turned over and on its side for ease of welding.

What is your time frame for welding up the body? If your plan is for after the holidays, I may offer my help to you to get everything done up. I'll know more in the next few days on what my schedule holds for January.

[pelago]

My scheedule..... damifiknow?? first is sand blast the critter. got to get into the corners and hidden spots to get all the old crap out. that is why i actually have it divided up for the sand blast guy. from the long piece that goes all the way from drivers side to passenger side, where all the back deck and fenders go on, HOWEVER I LOVE YOUR OFFER AND LIVE ON THE COAST OF NC, AND WILL HAVE STEAKS AND CORONA WITH LIME

3363

i think it is in this photo.. the center piece both sides and everything in front under the dash area, the battery box, where the glove box is located and the entire front firewall, all blast to white, then get some primer on it all.... bare metal scares me, even if there has to be welds, so be it, will solve that when it happens, but get the floor in, tool box in and gas tank well in, with floor in then the brace, when floor is true (as best i can do it) then lock in the brace and weld that bugger in. I DONT EVEN WANT TO SHOW THE SKIN AROUND WHERE THE BRACE WENT IN, THOSE DAMN SPOT WELLS TOOK THREE DAYS 8 HOUR DAYS T FIND THEM ALL, DAMN THING LOOKS LIKE IT GOT HIT WITH FIVE ROUNDS OF 00 12GAUGE MAGNUM BUCK SHOT!!!, But am looking forward to the opportunity it shows to repair (that was sneaky way to put it wasnt it)
WE WILL DRIVE THIS IN THE FALL VETERANS DAY PARADE!! AND THE LOCAL MULLET FESTIVAL IN OCT!!!!! COME HELL OR HIGH WATER

[pelago]

the next time i say "oh yeah we will just replace the old brace" you all have permission to beat the crap outta me or shoot me......... the picture has whats left of the brace, the very top part was hard welded in there and no way other than complete destruction of that portion of the jeep to remove so i cut it off with brand new dremel extension device. the first photo shows the corner where this thing was welded in, but its all out and am confident that i can trim the new one to match

33653366.3364

[gmwillys]

If the section that is hard welded in is in good shape, leave it. Cut the original off straight, and section the new piece in. On the one I did, only the bottom 4 inches was rotten, so I cut them off at 5", then sectioned the donor piece to match. I cut the sheet metal to make room to weld the back side to make it strong. I'll add some photos in the A.M.

If you have piece parts that you want to strip the G.I. and verious other layers of blue metallic off, my tip for the day is to purchase some of the 80 grit nylon brushes that harbor freight sells for $4.00 a piece. I use these extensively on paint removal, especially on sheet metal. All it takes is time and a 3/8 drill. I have stripped the paint on my 2A, (all 6 layers) down to the bare metal. On average, I use four brushes per jeep body. The frame takes a couple, then the axles take one. The brushes even eat through all the body filler that was gobbed on the quarters and hood. In my opinion, I like the ease of clean up after you are done. The surface is ready to paint after you blow it off with compressed air, and wipe down with prepsol. I also like that you don't have the abrasive material showing up everyone you turn the body. Just my opinion.

When you get everything lined up, we'll set up a weekend and get it all welded up.

I believe your goal of driving in the Mullet and the Veteran's parade is realistic.

[pelago]

i JUST HAD TO SEE IF IT WOULD GO IN!!! (BOY THAT COULD BE A LOOSE RIBALD STATEMENT, BUT IN THIS CASE TALKING ABOUT THE BRACE PIECE) AND DARN IF IT DID NOT GO IN PRETTY GOOD. OI MEASURED PRETTY CAREFULLY AND HAD LEFT 1 1/4 INCH OF OLD BRACE IN THERE AND CUT OFF 1 1/4 OFF NEW AND LO AND BEHOLD IT IS GONNA WORK.... AM INSIDE NOW AND 3/4 WAY THRU FIRST MARTINI WITH TWO OLIVES STOLI VERY VERY DRY, JUST WHISPER VERMOUTH AT IT... MIGHT JUST HAVE ANOTHER

34253426

[gmwillys]

Looks good! You deserve a second, absolutely!

[pelago]

ya know, and believe me am not blowin my olwn horn, but ifeel real good about what has been accomplished up to now. body is ready for sand blastand then prime, yeah some welding but wth i knew that was going to happen. then some artistry to make fenders flat. Rims and tires... seats, peripheral stuff like pioneer gear, but am delighted with the motor/frame situation, great running motor, probably will outlast me, then dughter has it. Real happy and yeah kinda proud of what has been done, but a lot of credit goes to this board also. a whole bunch of credit and everytime i open garage i see the get well card on the wall. that was a bad time, but its over.....

from the first time i got the engine out and looked at it and said "Oh My, are we in over our heads" but no, each obstacle was overcome, and the flow kept on going, one bolt at a time

[gmwillys]

Do you have a shovel for underneath the hood? I've got an extra one if you need it.

You have done well. You have adapted and overcame.

[pelago]

no shovel, got a axe and a gas can but no shovel... and talked to my sandblast guy and he said "hell, lets get on it, i want to see what you have done so far" wed morning off to the sandblast wizard of fire tower road.......getting trailor ready to haul the body....

[gmwillys]

The shovel is all yours.

You may want to purchase some weld through primer. Eastwood sells it, and it is a bit pricey, but one can will do the entire panel installation. The primer goes on the inside edges of the panels before they are spot welded. The MIG will burn through at the spot weld, and the primer seals around it to prevent rust in between the panels.

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-self-etching-weld-thru-primer-16-1-oz-aero.html

The shovel is the correct USA marked heat treated, but no brand stamp. I'll clean it up and prime it.

[LarrBeard]

no shovel, got a axe and a gas can but no shovel... and talked to my sandblast guy and he said "hell, lets get on it, i want to see what you have done so far" wed morning off to the sandblast wizard of fire tower road.......getting trailor ready to haul the body....

You will get a real boost once you see the metal sandblasted and the rust and crud off of it. Then, once you get it primed - you will really start to believe that one day it WILL be a Jeep!

[pelago]

oh yeah... got the "tub" cut down a lot, all the decayed stuff that is going to be replaced is gone, but all the joints and seams are now exposed fir a good cleaning. Now did have a major disappointment today. the gas tank well came and is it ever torqued, no longer even close to being squared. was told that when i started clamping and tacking it in it will all lay flat and the torque is from stamping??? not sure i buy that, for example the tool box is superb not a bend or a wrinkle in it, but gas tank, well you judge for yourself34323433343434353435

[gmwillys]

I'm calling horse s**t. The fuel tank well was stamped, then the ends should have been spot welded together. It doesn't look like it is the right gauge of steel. Did it come from Kaiser's? I don't remember exactly where I bought the one I used, but it was correct right out of the box. You will be hard pressed to get it back into shape without applying a lot of heat. Then you will have to slowly reduce the heat as you clamp it in place. It will be a pain.

[pelago]

yeah it came from them, i took it out to the tub and it is just not gonna work no matter how much i beaton it can i ask maybe where yours came from am returning this

[gmwillys]

I've bought parts from both of these vendors, but I think the sump came from Army Jeep Parts. The second is from another vendor, and it looks just like the one I had purchased. It's cheaper on Ebay, plus shipping.

https://www.armyjeepparts.com/p-2215-fuel-tank-well-front-floor-pan-shaped-us-manuffactured-681167.aspx

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gas-Tank-Well-Sump-Assembly-1952-1966-M38A1-Willys-Jeep-MFS009/183455032667?hash=item2ab6c5a55b:g:d3QAAOSwIUZbZGj m:rk:1:pf:0

[pelago]

i think i will call them armyjeep anyway and just ask them if they come warped??? hard to imagine that there would be a demand for these enough to have multiple people making them????

off to sandblast, hopefully (at least in my lifetime) this is the last time this will ever look like this, next view will be in the white


34393438


had an interesting conversation from and with the owner of army jeep parts, that gas tank well that all sell all come from the same guy?? and he said that if (repeat of kaiser) that you finess it in with clamps or rivets and push it down it will go in??? But again that goes against the old guy i talked to at a fabrications shop. dunnot am sort of in quandry over this. he also said "DO NOT BUY ANYTHING MADE IN PHILLIPINES IF IT IS PRIMER IT WAS MADE THERE" he told me he had installed some of the ones from phillipines (tail section) and they were absolutely horrible????????????????

[pelago]

this is pricey, but three people have said that that the ones from Phillipines and just not good and are a real trouble. but then there is this
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/usa-made-rear-center-weld-in-body-panel-fits-52-66-m38a1/

[gmwillys]

That is ponderous. The one I purchased was good right out of the box. It was not in primer, and was of heavy gauge. It fit in place with no issues. When I shop around, the first thing I look for is who or where made it. The problem with the one you received is that when it was spot welded together, they didn't disipate the heat correctly. The heat distorted the piece until it looks the way it does now. A little tweaking is to be expected, but that one is extreme.

[pelago]

A totally new perspective on the rebuild, seems as if all the dirty work of tearing out bad sections, beating my head agains the wall about welds, actual sandblasting is done and back in garage

34423443344434453446


" A little tweaking is to be expected, but that one is extreme. " methinks that in this case the tweaking is a BFH

[gmwillys]

Looking good. I see what you mean about the rear panel having the chunk missing. That is odd on how they did that.

[pelago]

yeah they butchered it?? but the pieces and parts left were not any good and if the cut out represented what was left,,, would have been pretty rough. got some small areas to correct by welding, and have lots of scrap left over.. to do it right i think spend a lot of time in prep and cutting out bad section and making sure new repair piece fits as it should then weld??

got one section on the firewall right next to the battery box. am sure it got rusted out due to water not draining and the way it was made there sure was not much room to drain,,, got to cut out the bad piece with a dremel tool, but i got one of those and put in a new piece

[LarrBeard]

got to cut out the bad piece with a dremel tool, but i got one of those and put in a new piece

You're getting into this body rebuild stuff. You've got to admit that the tub looks a whole lot better once you get all the rust and old paint off of it!

[gmwillys]

Just remember that when you cut a patch, undersize by a 1/16 of an inch for a butt joint. Then the metal will not buckle when welding. Use the copper to back it, then tack a few, then move to the opposite side. Don't attempt to lay a bead, or you'll go back to fearing body work.

[pelago]

some progress today,funny how parts from three different hulls just do not fit right away and you gotta beat on em some.... but made some progress

and said "I';; be a sob five times today345434553456

[gmwillys]

You've done well. The fuel tank well straightened out just fine. Cursing is just part of the fun of old heeps. Sometimes it is finding the right combination of swear words to make things fit right. Looking good!

[pelago]

you've done well. The fuel tank well straightened out just fine. Cursing is just part of the fun of old heeps. Sometimes it is finding the right combination of swear words to make things fit right. Looking good!

ton of welding to be done, and i did manage to get the area on passenger side to accept the support bracket, took some finagling to do so, but it will be right and tight and do what it is supposed to do. and it had actually broken taking it to be blasted, but was able to weld a satisfactory hold on it and i was able to match up the separation precise. and welded it, and actually did weld it rather well, but it was two pieces of same kind of metal

[gmwillys]

You will be a metal worker yet. Good job!

[pelago]

couple of questions....
the round aperture that is imbedded on the right front fender behind the firewall?? what was its purpose in life,. i just took mine off and removed the little plate inside and also had it sand blasted
Lifting lugs/rings that go on front and rear bumper, any photos of how they are set up and where can one get the set up?

[LarrBeard]

couple of questions....
the round aperture that is imbedded on the right front fender behind the firewall?? what was its purpose in life,. i just took mine off and removed the little plate inside and also had it sand blasted
Lifting lugs/rings that go on front and rear bumper, any photos of how they are set up and where can one get the set up?

Could that be the recess for the shore power/jump start connector? If the vehicle was stationary and the radios were in use as a comm post, external power from a motor generator would connect there so the vehicle didn't have to idle continuously to run the radios.

I looked at a couple of places for M38A1 wiring diagrams and the ones I found did not show this connector. But, we also know that all M38A1's are not alike (some have circuit breakers - others don't).

I can't tell you if this connector would handle the current to jump start the vehicle or to keep a trickle charge on the battery.

So, all I can say for a fact is that it is a connector for external power.

Here is a link to a picture of a front bumper with lifting hooks.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Picture+of+M38A1&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=J2yiJF2kdl-vsM%253A%252CSx_PRG-uwSkr3M%252C_&usg=AI4_-kR_TwNftbM22ZApyJqqyLGrfdaRNg&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwigntPHrpDfAhWE44MKHWrxCuYQ9QEwBXoECAUQD g#imgrc=J2yiJF2kdl-vsM:

[LarrBeard]

the round aperture that is imbedded on the right front fender behind the firewall?? what was its purpose in life,. i just took mine off and removed the little plate inside and also had it sand blasted


Of course you find the answer just after you admitted "I dunno ...".

http://www.jeepsurreygala.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/m38-wire.jpg

The connector goes to the battery post on the starter. It connects directly to the 24-volt point of the electrical system. One connector goes out to the right fender and another goes back aft for radio power.

I am sure that this could be used for both external power for radios and as a jump-start connector.

As you could see on the earlier picture, it sat in a little recess with a capped connector.

Do you have the recessed metal and did any of the three tubs have a connector?

[pelago]

Of course you find the answer just after you admitted "I dunno ...".

http://www.jeepsurreygala.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/m38-wire.jpg

The connector goes to the battery post on the starter. It connects directly to the 24-volt point of the electrical system. One connector goes out to the right fender and another goes back aft for radio power.

I am sure that this could be used for both external power for radios and as a jump-start connector.

As you could see on the earlier picture, it sat in a little recess with a capped connector.

Do you have the recessed metal and did any of the three tubs have a connector?


got the recessed fixture, in fact had to cut it out of other jeep because i have a new panel and need to put the recess fixture back in again (ugh more welding) but no connectors but then again where in the hell would i get a jump from a 24vdc source

[gmwillys]

As LarrBeard stated, the recessed section of the cowl is for the shore power connection. This is in fact to run the radios when stationary, plus to jump off the heep if the batteries die. Every once and a while, a set of shore power cables come up for sale, but the Christy charger are hard to find, if ever.

Radio Jeeps have an angle bracket mounted to the top of the passenger side tool box. The angle iron would be notched for the harness cannon plug connector. The harness runs along the door opening.

[pelago]

As LarrBeard stated, the recessed section of the cowl is for the shore power connection. This is in fact to run the radios when stationary, plus to jump off the heep if the batteries die. Every once and a while, a set of shore power cables come up for sale, but the Christy charger are hard to find, if ever.

Radio Jeeps have an angle bracket mounted to the top of the passenger side tool box. The angle iron would be notched for the harness cannon plug connector. The harness runs along the door opening.
i have that on my jeep that i am doing and have the multi pin plug... have even considered putting in a HF radio, maybe might do it later on, got the antennas and all the peripheral stuff. hell i got five 12volt long range hf radios, all are quite small and might even get my hands on a original hf, being old USMC radio rat

[gmwillys]

I was at a show once, and a guy had his A1 set up as a radio Jeep. He had an MP3 player hooked into the original speaker, and had vintage radio traffic running through the speakers on a loop. Air strike communication etc. It added a layer of realism to his display. The player would run all day long without needing a charge, or outside power source.

[pelago]

anyone got a diagram of the battery box ??? got two pieces and i forgot how they went in

[gmwillys]

I'm away from my computer today, so I can not pull up a diagram. What do the two pieces in question look like? There is a trick to getting the battery trays, but I do not recall what it took to get it in.

[pelago]

anyone got a diagram of the battery box ??? got two pieces and i forgot how they went in trays are good it is these two things

3471



edit... i forgot another were there two mud shields in rear wheel well one on each side? damifididnotforget

[gmwillys]

The pieces mount to the dash side of the battery box. The L goes down, and mounts to the dash panel. Here is a picture showing the bracket installed in the back ground.

As far as a mud guard, each side has the plate that the tail light mounts to. Is this the panel in question?

[pelago]

I KNEW THAT, yeah right i stared at those two and stared and said to myself where in the hell do these go, and late last night i said dashboard they hold it up and support it

"
As far as a mud guard, each side has the plate that the tail light mounts to. Is this the panel in question?" yeah

[gmwillys]

I had to ask about the mud guards. On CJs, they added a piece to the right rear inside quarter panel to stiffen the panel for a spare tire mount. The civvies mounted the tire to the right rear instead of the rear panel because of the tailgate. The mounts on the one I had were botched up, and a pain to straighten.

[pelago]

it is two panels about 14"X14" inside the fender well covers the inside of the lights

[gmwillys]

I found what you are talking about. There is one large panel that matches what you are referring to. It fits on the driver's side only. It is in fact a mud guard, and it keeps trash from getting into the trailer receptacle, and protects the antenna harness if equipped. The passenger side does not have one.

The second photo lets you have an idea of the size of the passenger side without the panel. The first shows what's left of one on a donor hull.

[pelago]

learned something new, i was conversing with people at armyjeep parts and sent them some pictures and he told me that the actual ser# 7249 jeep made, and to disregard the 10 infront of it, but wont tell that to the dmv people dont want to confuse their young minds

[gmwillys]

Often times a manufacture will start with 10,000 or 100,000 for whatever reason. There is a reason, but I do not know exactly why. Doesn't change that yours was the 7,249 A1 made.

[pelago]

in this photo (i tried to make some circles to identify but was unable) there are some holes that i just dont remember anything there one right next to where gas pedal goes and another above it elongated about 4" X 8" got the dimmer switch, gas pedal, and starter figured out but those two holes


3483

[gmwillys]

The elongated hole is for the steering column. Then the one next to the gas pedal is for the brake pedal stem. Then left of the elongated hole is for the clutch pedal stem. The circle below is for the master cylinder access cover.

[pelago]

damn, and all that time i just plain forgot about the damn steering column, is there a boot? looks like i will need a inspection cover for master cyl

[gmwillys]

It looks like your cover was trimmed a bit above where the steering column goes through. Look at the picture in your gallery of the floor section I had salvaged. You can see the floor cover fills the elongated hole. A rubber piece bolts in to seal off the steering column.

[pelago]

two of these not mine but off the internet and i saved them, i see what you mean CLEVER TIME AGAIN guess will need to fabricate somethingout of scrap, lord knows go lots of that, that i keep..........


348434853486

[gmwillys]

The last photo looked familiar. My Monte Carlo I had at the time is in the background. It won't take much to get the upper panel back in shape. I know I kept enough odds and ends scrap to build floors for the M151A2 after the A1 was complete. It doesn't hurt to have a stash. The old steel welds much better than new, in my opinion.

[pelago]

welding update!!!..The same guy that has done all of my sandblasting is also a accomplished welder, he did some welds on the frame that were gorgeous. This weekend he is coming over to see what i am up against, and if anyone withing fifty miles (at least people i know and trust) can do it he is the one.

on a different note. Battery box compartment is done...rebuilt both trays, strengthened support for batteries and obtained two (close to original 12vdc batteries. Now i know the purist out there will say those are not original to the vehicle, to you i say I Agree however New authentic batteries can be obtained at horrendous prices plus shipping, No, Not going to happen these two are good batteries good cranking amp and the generating system keeps em fully charged... got some cosmetic work to do to fill the old holes from the other cover but wth just add to the list

at the same time i rebuilt the gas pedal,,, Kaiser wanted 7.00 us dollars for a little piece of folded steel, i went thru trash pile found a piece of 16 guage and bent it, cleaned it, a piece of 5/16 drilled two holes in it for cotter pins and presto rebuilt gas pedal..
In the photo of the firewall upper right corner there is a (approx) 4X4 hole with 4 machine screw holes, damificanremeber what goes there....


3494 3495

[gmwillys]

The 4x4 hole in the firewall is for the electrical junction. There is a square cover with a relief cut for the harness to go through. The main harness goes through a smaller hole close to the driver's side outer edge.

Good deal on getting things welded up. You'll be excited to get things in place for a final time. Keep the pictures rolling in.

[pelago]

found the piece that goes in the 4X4 hole, will need a new grommet though, but have a hardware store that has a drawer full of grommets of diff sizes
now the next photo is of four pieces from left to right that again if forgot where they go,,, took this body apart 2 yrs ago and again damnifiremember!
and added some rubber inner tube material under the batteries for insurance on slipping..

3498


edit time,,, finished the glove box repair, bottom just rusted way way to gone, so cut it our and replaced the entire bottom of glove box with 16 gauge steel from lowes.. used #10/24's with lock washers, and ground the excess iff think i need to go to Walmart and get a white board and hang it up in garage and list "things to do" and when done check them out, that way the whole thing might, just might not be overwhelming, but i do like the battery box, and added the floor to it, couple of small rust spots, but since there is no weight on it and it is just an enclosure, WTH just painted over them and to see it got to take two batteries out or get on your back and look up

[gmwillys]

The first bracket looks to be the top bow pivot that mounts in the indent above the rear wheel opening on the body. The second is just a guess for the moment, but my shot from the hip tells me that it is the shovel handle tie down bracket, that goes under the hood. The other two, I'm going to have to think about, then look through my photos on Monday.

The battery box is fairly complex for no bigger than it is. As long as you applied a good amount of paint, a few pin holes will be alright. I won't tell if you don't.

[LarrBeard]

We added a drip/drain hole to the battery box on the '48. I didn't want acidic water to stand in there. A few holes are ok.

[pelago]

We added a drip/drain hole to the battery box on the '48. I didn't want acidic water to stand in there. A few holes are ok.



got two large holes now, and agree with battery acid mix

[gmwillys]

There is a factory drain tube that goes through the box, and out the firewall in between the two battery trays. A rubber hose attaches to each battery trays, then the hoses tie into a tee. Then out the firewall. Its a good idea to keep the box cleaned out.

[pelago]

somehow, for some unknown reason will have to make one of these

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/floor-pan-master-cylinder-access-cover-fits-46-71-cj-2a-3a-3b-5-m38-m38a1

why they changed it?? who knows

[gmwillys]

I'm not tracking. You should be able to find one on eBay cheaper. You can make one fairly simply by placing the metal blank over a can of the same size as the opening. Peen the center down a 1/8". Then drill the holes for mounting.

[pelago]

349935003501

two views of the reworked glove box with new 16 gauge steel bottom all bolted in and glove box installed, all that is left is to put dash on and attach. then a view of the home made inspection port, made of scrap and since it was to cover a modified hole (wonder why someone did that??) it is wierd shaped... and can see the reworked mechanical starter, went to hardware store and go heavy return spring

edit sunday eve. had a section of firewall that i just did not like, when sandblasted the holes appeared, structurally probably did not matter. and i never expect a 600lb gorilla testing the load strength. But was just not happy with it.... Sooooooooooooo i just covered up. made a 16 gauge patch and sheet metal it in

35023503

[gmwillys]

That is the down side of media blasting. It tends to exploit weakness within the metal.

[pelago]

guess there are two sides to every coin. was not happy when i looked at firewall and saw that area, and know the culprit the area between the firewall and the battery box holds moisture. so i rotted out with rust, but in reality the firewall area that i "repaired" will not be noticeable to most the true "believers" of course will see it but WTH its solid now and when engine in and all the wiring done should not be noticeable

3504



interesting observation of wheel wells on m38a1 after sandblasting.....
I saw where the tires had rubbed the inside of the wheel well on both sides of my m38a1. Tire marks were very evident? why?? oversize tires? wrong size tires? wrong rims? dunno i have a set of rims from M151, and they are offset quite a bit and tires put on them even though right size 700X15 will rub the inside of the wheel well?? correct rims (of which at this time i only have one) fit correctly and the tires have enough clearance to NOT rub the inside of the wheel well.

[gmwillys]

The M151 wheels put the tires too close to the wheel wells. Take in consideration that the M151 is an 4 wheel independent suspension set up. The independent suspension was to improve the MUTTs ability to travel across rough terrain at a higher speed. The early M151 and 151A1 version had issues with the inside wheel folding under in maneuvers over 45 MPH. The later A2 version saw a design to the rear suspension that prevented suspension from unloading/folding under. The Kelsey Hayes 16" original equipment wheels has half the back spacing, putting the hub center in the rim. The axle width allows for the tire to be centered within the wheel well, and give quite a bit of articulation without scrubbing. The pictures included show the Kelsey Hayes wheels, and a couple of shots of a M151 wheel under the rear end. You can see how much the offset is by how much the wheel sits inward of the wheel opening with the 151 wheel.

[pelago]

When I was maintenance chief of 10th Marines (electronic) we had these configured as radio jeeps MRC83, 110,09 had HF (trc75 a 1Kw transcierver <big>) and the vrc group of vhf radios... got to keep looking for correct wheels that dont cost 150 bucks each, remember once when following a MRC83 it blew up and sent a connecting rod to the road... needless to say we got a new motor.. but maintenance rules of the time indicated that we had to tow it back and again perform all second echelon maintenance, I SAID NFWAY) called maintenance officer a old W4 tht i had known for years and he chuckled and said yeah that is a waste of time bring it in as is and we will deal with it

[gmwillys]

Not much has changed. We service a power pack, (FUPP -full up power pack) engine/transmission/cooling tower. When the vehicle is assigned to the unit, they often dump the oil and coolant for Arctic service. Then when we do set the pack for Arctic duty, they end up sending the vehicle to California for unit training before going on to Alaska. You guessed it, dump the oil and coolant three times by the time it gets to its final duty station. Our tax dollars at work.

Here is a M151A2.

[pelago]

interesting... pulled the ID tag off the other M38A1 and i am just not sure what the serial number is, one long number hyphenated?? or two numbers??.. but they are different both had same motor in it but the earlier one had two long steel rods connected to radiator all way back to firewall? the other one did not? the body i am using does not have attachment points for the two steel rods?. did they find later on that they were just not needed?

35133515

there is a photo of the floor included, tried to delete it in as much as i must have moved wrong photo but unable to do so?

[gmwillys]

The first tag is the serial number. MD designates the M38A1, but often times the engine will not match due to motor pool switcheroo. The second tag is a later version with the model number of 57148 before the serial number of 88989.

The radiator rods on the early A1s mounted off the front motor mounts, while the latter ones ran from the firewall. The early A1s also had hinges on the front grill that allowed the grill to pivot downward for pack removal. The power pack was in a sense self contained so that the complete assembly could be removed without having to drain the radiator. The later ones did not have the hinges on the grill.

[pelago]

tried to look it up but data sort of confused, or i am 88989 has to be after the other one

[gmwillys]

If it doesn't fall within the serial number range, then it may be a foreign sales unit that was produced through the sixties. G503 websight had some info on how to tell.

[pelago]

body panels, fender well, and under seat tool box.....
35173518.3516


got a issue with the quarter panel i am putting on, and it lines up on the right side great and lines up on left side great BUT NOT TOGETHER. going to have to get clever and probably cut the panel and make it curve some more a diagonal cut from bottem to right at curve and then separate so both sides match, if i do it right over the brace should be easy to fill??


order of installation 1st rear deck/floor, then tool box lip over that?? floor goes from wheel well to wheel well and tool box on top?? correct

[gmwillys]

Let me see if I am tracking correctly from what I have gathered. Easy questions first. The tool box is the last to be installed. The rear floor and then riser. The wheel well then can be positioned and tacked. I would fit the tool box to ensure that the quarter panel isn't bowed out before welding the wheel well in permanent. If you are having trouble fitting panels, I would check for the body being square. When I cut out all the support on the A1 I did, cut some 3/4" square tubing and made a brace to keep the body square. This made fitting panels fairly easy. I didn't have to replace anything at the rear, but the entire front floor was compromised. The only original steel that was holding the cowl on was the tops of the door entrance. To square everything, I had to use a port-a-power to push the top of the cowl forward 8". The quarter panels should remain flat, without any deviation.

[pelago]

TOOL BOX, LAST, CHECK..., WHEEL WELL IN AND PARTIALLY TACKED, SOME BOLTS HOLDING IT IN ALSO, DID WELD IT AT THE JUNCTION TO THE RISER, REST BOLTS. CHECK.. PANEL IS LIKE A LAYING DOWN "L" AND LEFT SIDE FITS, BUT THEN WHERE IT JOINS THE FIREWALL COWL IT IS OUT, THEN WHEN IT IS OKAY AT FIREWALL COWEL (RIGHT BELOW THE WINDSHIELD) JUNCTION THEN LEFT OUT OF WHACK..... THIS PORTION OF BODY PRETTY STIFF, AND FEEL THAT IF I MAKE A CUT ALMOST TO EDGE CAN GET BOTH ENDS SQUARE AND THEY ALL MATCH UP TO THE OLD SPOT WELD HOLES ... If i force it have a bow. cant force it, but the new brace fits well, and the panel outside the brace fits well and floor is flush to bottom of brace.. still have the riser that goes from wheel well to wheel well and ouside both sides, have ordered a new rear floor.

[gmwillys]

It will be alright to make the cut to give you what you need to bring everything together. I wish the rear panel, (tailgate section) was complete, then I would recommend that you could place the body on your spare frame to act as a jig. I don't remember if you stripped the second Jeep down to the frame or not. I was lucky to have a rolling chassis to place the body on when replacing major body parts. The body went from the frame to being turned over for final welds. I had steel pucks made up to replicate the body rubber mounts. When the body was completed, everything mounted up damn near perfectly. To double check the square, take your tape measure and pick two points in an X pattern, (left front on dash bolt to right rear corner, then right front dash bolt to the left rear). If the measurements are the same, then you are square.

[biggar]

I feel your pain . . .

[pelago]

(left front on dash bolt to right rear corner, then right front dash bolt to the left rear). If the measurements are the same, then you are square. )
got it

think need to back off for a while and wait till the floor section comes in, then work on fitting that and at same time do measurements . If i weld makes it twice as hard to fix. only thing in is the part where wheel well sits on cross member and then i have it bolted to side... can move the side part.... now tail section to come later but floor should be enough to get good measures. got lots of little dents to work on

went from corner to dash bolt 1" off,,, got some aligning to do

wonder if expanding on the frame idea?? final assembly and welding on a stripped down frame?? be a pain in the *** to lift off and on and lift off and on for fitting. there are central bolts on the cross over and pieces that lock it donw right off the cowl??

[gmwillys]

If you take your engine hoist and run a ratchet straps to both front body mounts,(at the firewall) center the strap at the seat location. Take another ratchet straps to the rear corners of the body. With your engine hoist, come in from the side, then hook into the straps. Adjust the straps till the body lifts evenly. I work by myself, so this was the only way for me to move the body. I probably moved the body a half a dozen times to the spare frame because I am just that way. The original frame was with the owner receiving it's restoration. It helps to not have the steering column installed, but not mandatory. The nice thing about the military Jeeps, the floor opening is large enough to allow the steering wheel to fit through.
If you do try the spare frame idea, the main floor bolts are all you need to ensure everything is square. You can take longer bolts and run them from the bottom up, then double nut them so they stay put. Add a flat washer on top of the nuts to supply support to the body around the mounts. Use the bolts as guide studs, so then you don't have to crawl underneath to tighten the hardware.
The cowl support bolts, and the rear panel mount bolts, just ensure that they are lined up.

[pelago]

got my work cut out for me, here is my plan
1. separate spare frame from front and rear differentials (if i dont it is just too heavy and will have to find four tires to move it)
2. move it put up on jackstands
3. got to clean it some, not sandblast but clean it a bit
4. extend my lift because due to garage will have to move lift in and out of garage from front
5. drop body on the frame after long bolts and double nuted

damn, i forgot just how many body to frame bolts there are know the crossmember at junction of front floor and rear deck has two and more around floor section, front and oh hell just got to play with it to see. Since the back deck and a lot of rear is gone balance will have to be played with

[LarrBeard]

balance will have to be played with

Rig once, lift a little, check balance, rig again and repeat until things lift straight and don't spin. I learned a lot watching Bosun's Mates rig for heavy lifts on Ammunition Ships and Destroyer Tenders.

Check your straps for wear and cuts and don't get under it unless it is sable.

Last week I remembered a little of that when I had to make a heavy lift by myself.

[pelago]

8 pointer?? nice deer, i took a 8 pointer years ago, running shot at 100 yards, lever action 25 35 1894 made in 1907, have not hunted deer in quite a while, but would like to get one this week to have one in freezer

[gmwillys]

With the back deck missing, shorten up the strap to the front. All the weight is up front, so the strap needs to be short. Adjust the rear strap to level the load. There are none bolts total holding the body on. Two that go through the toe brace strap. Two in the passenger side floor board, (one at your feet, one in the toolbox). One bolt on the driver's side feet. Two bolts at the riser base, in front of the rear wheels. Two bolts through the floor crossmember, to the frame crossmember. Two bolts through the rear crossmember.
Since you have the floor out, you can hook the straps closer to the riser. This will prevent undue stress on the rear quarters.

The deer here are the equivalent of a German Shepherd. The average Buck is around 150 lbs. Then the public land is over run with armed bubbas. I went several years ago, and will not go back. Went into the woods three hours before daylight, to set up my tree stand on the edge of a crater. Just as the sun came up, a group came stomping through, talking loudly. That was the occuring problem all day. That was enough for me. Too many folks sound hunt, so I thought it be best to hang it up. Plus a lot of folks hunt with dogs. I just don't like running down a deer.

[pelago]

MY former daughter in law came from a farming family and have extensive wood lots they let me hunt anytime i want and many times i would sit on edge of cornfield and wait for deer come out sunset time wise.. seen as many as twenty on one field, all does but knew that there was a buck nearby... once shot a 180lb dressed out doe in a cornfield 250 yards away and used my 1903a4 set up for zero at 300 yards using 168grain national match, but i used 150g sp with 46 gr 4064 and it held same zero as match and used that aimed a minute low at 250 and hit heart with first shot sitting. great rifle, won four gold medals with it in the national sniper team match. got a 1941USMC sniper zero at 600 yards set up and go down 11 minutes for 300, it has a unertyl 8 power, original rifle with new stock, the old one looked like it got ran over by a tank, still have it for collector value. rifle was built in 1942 at philadelphia naval armory and they selected a 1903 national match from 1929, and does it shoot. won the gold medal at the inaugural sniper single match with a perfect score and all X's. according to a reference book i have by brophy this serial number used during Pelileu, that is what the book said issue to 5th marines

[LarrBeard]

8 pointer?? nice deer, i took a 8 pointer years ago, running shot at 100 yards, lever action 25 35 1894 made in 1907, have not hunted deer in quite a while, but would like to get one this week to have one in freezer


Easily an eight - one tip that might make him a nine.

No really big story to go with him. He walked out of the woods about 130 yards out, I said "Mehh" to him, he stopped and looked and I dropped him with a spine shot like he was a popped balloon. Really too high, but I didn't have to go looking for him in the cane brakes and cat-briers. I'm getting too old to go salvage deer out of the swamp. I hooked him up behind the four-wheeler, dragged him up to the old tractor and loaded him up.

He was a big deer for Tennessee. When they reintroduced deer into West Tennessee back in the early 1960's, they brought in deer from Texas and Michigan. Texas for heat and disease resistance, Michigan for size. This guy tended more toward the Michigan strain than the Texas strain - about 180 pounds.

At 180 pounds he was too big to lift even with the little hoist, so I tied the rope off to the four-wheeler, lifted him and then tied off the rope a second time so I could back underneath him.

Pretty much the end of the story.

[pelago]

this spare frame really being a sob, four hours to get one shackle off the springs and all i did was manage to break off one nut and did remove the other one but it wont budge used up a whole bottle of propane, heck with it am cutting it off and probably will cud the other shackles off also, they are shot anyway. dont want to make removing dead wt from frame a career

[gmwillys]

I get a kick out of all these "professional" hunters you see in magazines and the idiot box. Scent free detergent, and doe urine that. Every deer that I ever harvested was after burning down a cheap cigar or a Marlboro. No matter ground cover or a tree stand.
I know I'm biased, but Midwest deer are the best for taste, and size. Corn fed anything is better than the pine cone and acorn eaters we have here. Up state Minnesota deer are the same way. They are small and taste fairly gamey.
A quick story about experience over youth. We were a group of five on a 850 acre picked corn field, with hard woods on two sides. Three of us were in tree stands with cut shooting lanes into the woods. The last two guys were in the ground blind behind us, watching the field. We made a plan to meet at the trucks at noon, because one of the hunters was in his eighties, and a diabetic. We were sitting there having a sandwich, when the elder popped up. We all watched as he grabbed his trusty 30/30. We all went to follow, as he cocks the rifle. One guy pulls up his field glasses to see what he was seeing. Out at the far edge of the field was a buck standing at the edge of the field. The grandfather proceeds forward about 10 yards.He placed the butt of the rifle to his hip and lobbed a round down range. He immediately turned to us and said I got that S.O.B. We couldn't see the deer well, but the guy with the field glasses was watching. As we started to laugh at the guy, the spotter said that the deer just dropped over dead. The shot was every bit of 350 yards out. The man had carried the same rifle since he was a child. He knew what it could do, and how to shoot it. I was a believer from that point on.

If you have a 4 1/2" grinder, invest in some cut off wheels. They make cutting things apart so much easier. I use mine to even cut panels, or trim replacement sheet metal. Harbor freight has them on sale for $5.99 for 10. They last alright for most cutting.

[TJones]

I agree with GM on the hunting. I have a first hand story on hunting, when I was 18 right out of high school my biggest dream was to be a guide out west for big game so i graduated HS and took a road trip west. we had family in southern Ohio,West Virginia and Alabama so the hunting gene was in my DNA. I drove 31 hours and got to Missoula Montana about 3 in the afternoon and thought I'm firsty so I stopped at the first bar I found and sat next to a guy in a cowboy hat and as soon as i ordered my beer he looked at me and said " Boy where in the H":ll you from" and from that time on my dream was becoming a reality.
His name was Red Saffles and he leased one of the biggest parcels of hunting area's in the western US at the time,it went from Missoula south into the northern part of Idaho and was about 89,000 acres. After about 4.5-5 years of guiding big game hunts and seeing more stuff in that time than most people see in their lifetime Red came to me and said he had a doctor call him from Georgia and wanted to kill a World Record Grizzly bear and Red knew I had been seeing one and the mass distruction it was doing in my parcel of 22,000 acres I hunted. He told the doctor that we had what was either a world record or close and it would be a 10 day hunt for $18,000.00.
A week later is when the biggest Nightmare of my life was about to unfold in the next week. Red picked this AHole up at the airport and talked to him for a hour and a half on the way back to camp and pulled me aside and said this guy has Never been west of the Mississippi,Never rode a horse, Never hunted a thing, and Never shot a gun. That should of been my sign. I think it was on the 5th day (due to his pantie a*& got sore the first 4 from riding and we were back to camp by noon) I spotted our bear on the next ridge may 12-1,300 yards so I turned around and the idiot was off his horse,on the ground with his tri-pod out trying to find this bear in his scope and I asked him WTF are doing and his reply was I am going to shoot it, and my response was you have a 300 Weatherby not a 50 caliber and you are not a Army Sniper or Navy Seal get back your horse and be quite and we'll get a little closer. After a couple hours of riding I got him within 350 yards of this Beast and I mean he was a beast.
We tied the horses up he gets down with all his "New" gear and I set up behind him with my spotting scope (a little trick Red taught me, you can see the vapor trail of the bullet and follow it) he squeezed off his first shot and I said your ONLY 6' high, then the 2nd was 4, then 2, then a leg shot, know the bear is pissed he stands up a whirls around and winds us and here he comes full throttle. Now its time to pull out my 45 Colt Pistol, 3 clips later and I wasn't sure weather to put the barrel in my mouth or shoot him in the back of the head. Finally 50 yards from us which in a grizzly's eyes is dinner time, it drops the doctor stands up and is high fiving me and I said "have you ever shot that gun before" and his exact words were NOPE the store where I got it said they bore sighted for me and it was ready to go..........He took off running towards this 1,865 lb beast and I was praying it was only wounded and it would eat this SOB alive!!!!!!
He was dead it ONLY took 20 shots and 3 hits first in the leg, one in the shoulder and it must of been "the saving grace one for my dumb A%^ for being there in the first place" one in the head.We rode back to camp and I gave Red the coordinates of where it was laying, collected my 10% commission and headed back to Ohio "END OF NIGHTMARE" Wouldn't trade those years for nothing!!!
P.S. Sorry it was so lengthy....

But on the cut-off wheels I have found some really good one's on AMAZON, Menards,Lowes,Home Depot as well as Harbor Freight.

[gmwillys]

I would give a lot to have a Menards close by. The 3m green cut off wheels are by far the best, but they are expensive.
Great story TJones!

[pelago]

I agree with GM on the hunting. I have a first hand story on hunting, when I was 18 right out of high school my biggest dream was to be a guide out west for big game so i graduated HS and took a road trip west. we had family in southern Ohio,West Virginia and Alabama so the hunting gene was in my DNA. I drove 31 hours and got to Missoula Montana about 3 in the afternoon and thought I'm firsty so I stopped at the first bar I found and sat next to a guy in a cowboy hat and as soon as i ordered my beer he looked at me and said " Boy where in the H":ll you from" and from that time on my dream was becoming a reality.
His name was Red Saffles and he leased one of the biggest parcels of hunting area's in the western US at the time,it went from Missoula south into the northern part of Idaho and was about 89,000 acres. After about 4.5-5 years of guiding big game hunts and seeing more stuff in that time than most people see in their lifetime Red came to me and said he had a doctor call him from Georgia and wanted to kill a World Record Grizzly bear and Red knew I had been seeing one and the mass distruction it was doing in my parcel of 22,000 acres I hunted. He told the doctor that we had what was either a world record or close and it would be a 10 day hunt for $18,000.00.
A week later is when the biggest Nightmare of my life was about to unfold in the next week. Red picked this AHole up at the airport and talked to him for a hour and a half on the way back to camp and pulled me aside and said this guy has Never been west of the Mississippi,Never rode a horse, Never hunted a thing, and Never shot a gun. That should of been my sign. I think it was on the 5th day (due to his pantie a*& got sore the first 4 from riding and we were back to camp by noon) I spotted our bear on the next ridge may 12-1,300 yards so I turned around and the idiot was off his horse,on the ground with his tri-pod out trying to find this bear in his scope and I asked him WTF are doing and his reply was I am going to shoot it, and my response was you have a 300 Weatherby not a 50 caliber and you are not a Army Sniper or Navy Seal get back your horse and be quite and we'll get a little closer. After a couple hours of riding I got him within 350 yards of this Beast and I mean he was a beast.
We tied the horses up he gets down with all his "New" gear and I set up behind him with my spotting scope (a little trick Red taught me, you can see the vapor trail of the bullet and follow it) he squeezed off his first shot and I said your ONLY 6' high, then the 2nd was 4, then 2, then a leg shot, know the bear is pissed he stands up a whirls around and winds us and here he comes full throttle. Now its time to pull out my 45 Colt Pistol, 3 clips later and I wasn't sure weather to put the barrel in my mouth or shoot him in the back of the head. Finally 50 yards from us which in a grizzly's eyes is dinner time, it drops the doctor stands up and is high fiving me and I said "have you ever shot that gun before" and his exact words were NOPE the store where I got it said they bore sighted for me and it was ready to go..........He took off running towards this 1,865 lb beast and I was praying it was only wounded and it would eat this SOB alive!!!!!!
He was dead it ONLY took 20 shots and 3 hits first in the leg, one in the shoulder and it must of been "the saving grace one for my dumb A%^ for being there in the first place" one in the head.We rode back to camp and I gave Red the coordinates of where it was laying, collected my 10% commission and headed back to Ohio "END OF NIGHTMARE" Wouldn't trade those years for nothing!!!
P.S. Sorry it was so lengthy....

But on the cut-off wheels I have found some really good one's on AMAZON, Menards,Lowes,Home Depot as well as Harbor Freight.
HOLY CRAP BATMAN. although i have ridden a horse i agree with sherlock holmes charachter "mean at both ends and crafty in the middle" had a horse step on my foot and turn around and looked at me standing on my foot and i swear he shifted his wt to one hoof and laughed, damn it hurt and i smacked him right on the ear as hard as i could and limped off. i think the horse and i had a understanding then,,, but to ride one for hours probably would kill me... and have only seen one bear in the wild and it was a young black bear and it actually walked fifty yards from right to left in front of me as i sat next to a low pine waiting for deer, i was amazed and delighted to see such a gorgeous wild animal, its coat was shinn black and he was beautiful, i had a bear tag but just could not do it. soon he stopped and sat down on his rear end and lifted up to a full begging type sitting position, sniffed a lot and got up and went back the way he came. i feel so grateful to God for letting me see such a great animal in his own kingdom, no way i could kill that. also had priviledge of seeing some wild red wolves in the swamps near va border,,, that was so neat... was duck hunting when it happened (with me and a shotgun ducks are safe, i keep trying to aim)

cut offs yeah got some yesterday and got four tall stands and the frame now on stands to cut away the front and rear end

[TJones]

Yes it was adventuresome most days, but like i said I wouldnt have traded it for nothing!!!!

Jack Stands are the neatest things since sliced bread to get things up and hold them so you can work on them without bending over and killing your back, especially if your on concrete floors. I would love to have a car lift in my shop, but jack stands and my tow motor will have to work for now. I cant really warrant buying a car lift being the only thing we have that woudn't over load it is the 12 ton fork lift.

These are the ones I bought on Amazon 10 for $11.47 and they are just as good as the 3M ones from Menards.3533

[pelago]

Jack Stands are the neatest things since sliced bread

well yesterday i bought four that go to 2 feet extension, next size up would have been pricey, got actually ten of them now, four new ones and a bunch of short ones
work progresses, got the rear end separated from the frame, had to cut the shackels off or get a 30 lb hammer and the ability to swing it sideways (which i sure dont)

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/us-made-lower-quarter-body-patch-panel-lh-fits-55-71-cj-5-m38a1... strictly dollars and cents,,, my drivers side panel has so many dents in it, have tried to pound them out and make it nice and flat, but feel that my skills are woefully inadequate in this endeavor. were i to get one of these https://www.kaiserwillys.com/us-made-lower-quarter-body-patch-panel-lh-fits-55-71-cj-5-m38a1 what do you suppose a body shop would charge to put in properly??

[pelago]

Merry christmas to all, hope 2019 brings nothing but joy and peace to all

[gmwillys]

Pelagro,
Merry Christmas to you my friend.

The lower rocker is pretty easy to install. The offer still stands to show you in person. Gas is cheap now, and will soon have some time. Maybe as soon as next week.

I'm not going to mess with you if you can swing a 30 lbs sledge..

[pelago]

A quick story about experience over youth. We were a group of five on a 850 acre picked corn field, with hard woods on two sides. Three of us were in tree stands with cut shooting lanes into the woods. The last two guys were in the ground blind behind us, watching the field. We made a plan to meet at the trucks at noon, because one of the hunters was in his eighties, and a diabetic. We were sitting there having a sandwich, when the elder popped up. We all watched as he grabbed his trusty 30/30. We all went to follow, as he cocks the rifle. One guy pulls up his field glasses to see what he was seeing. Out at the far edge of the field was a buck standing at the edge of the field. The grandfather proceeds forward about 10 yards.He placed the butt of the rifle to his hip and lobbed a round down range. He immediately turned to us and said I got that S.O.B. We couldn't see the deer well, but the guy with the field glasses was watching. As we started to laugh at the guy, the spotter said that the deer just dropped over dead. The shot was every bit of 350 yards out. The man had carried the same rifle since he was a child. He knew what it could do, and how to shoot it. I was a believer from that point on THAT IS SO COOL

SEVERAL YEARS AGO i decided to hunt with a very accurate bolt action iron sighted m98 in 8 mm (someone in past had semi sportered it stock cut down, beautiful wood, so i left it), was with my son and we were on the side of a corn field and we had been out quite a while, and nada, looked up and about 200 yrd away some crows big ones, and my son said bet you wish you had your 22 250, said watch, pulled up rifle put crown on top of front sight and held a military 6 oclock and pulled it off, crow exploded, son said "holy shiX" not bad for a 70 yr old shooter using a 75 yr old german rifle ( i was surprised also)

[TJones]

Great story!!!
Sometimes we need to tell or “show the boys” we still have it in us pelago :D
Merry Christmas to you and your Family!!!!

[pelago]

Now to the mechanics of frame and chassis.....
love the idea of using spare frame for fitting, and it is ready and stripped of all pieces and parts not needed for body .. frame outside sitting on stands, body inside on stands Hmmm only way to get hoist under it is from front? then got to pull out of garage and mount on frame?? Put body on rollers? lift body up and put frame on rollers and scoot under? none of this stuff is light? this gonna take some thinking????????????

here is one idea..
lift body as high as possible and rest it on 2X6's across saw horses (should be ok) and roll frame under with small 10"12" roller boards from that chinese tool store (got two and it worked on rolling body on its side to my trailer) then lower body to frame on stands?? since the center of gravity should be pretty forward since the back floor not there should get a good lift with engine hoise


3544

[gmwillys]

Lifting from the front will work up until the rear floor is installed. With the axles removed, that brings your jack stands at the width of the frame. This will then make it too narrow to bring the hoist in the front. One idea would be to find a swivel link to place in between the hook of the hoist, and the straps. Then you can tie off the body when lifted to the hoist, then the body will not free spin as you move it. The same can be done by twisting the hook on the hoist, then tie off the body to the hoist so it doesn't turn sideways until you are ready. Another thought, if your rafters are exposed in your shop, pick the body with a come along, then slide the frame underneath. Lower the body over the frame. The idea of using the saw horses would work as well.

[pelago]

need some memory tweaking here, and some critique... some photos from a step ladder showing what i think are the body location mounting spots, correct highlighted in hot rod orange.. have i got the spots right??? am waiting for the rear deck and the support brackets already ordered

3546

3545

damn left a crappy piece of plywood covering two holes on rear bumper section, was worried would fall off rickety ladder

[gmwillys]

There are three that are not needed. One next to the pedestal mount for the machine gun, (the flat plate on top of the crossmember) and the two in the center of the crossmember to the left. There is a total of 11. I think I told you 9 the other day, but I forgot the two in the middle of the floor.
The most important mounts will be the two at the rear crossmember/bumper, the two at the riser, then the two on the front floor. When those 6 are lined up and square, then everything will fall into place. As you get everything tacked and located, then add the corresponding mounts. Use wood to replicate the rubber body mounts.

[pelago]

wood to replicate the rubber body mounts. forgot all about those....

these them??
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/rubber-body-mount-pad-1-2-thick-fits-46-64-truck

however this seems a bit pricey
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/complete-body-mount-kit-with-hardware-fits-41-71-jeep

[TJones]

If you have the bolts,nuts and washers pelago all you need are the rubber spacers.
I found a website you can buy any type of fasteners you want it’s boltdepot.com and they are reasonable.

[pelago]

If you have the bolts,nuts and washers pelago all you need are the rubber spacers.
I found a website you can buy any type of fasteners you want it’s boltdepot.com and they are reasonable.

COULDN'T THE RUBBER SPACERS BE FOUND LOCALLY BUT IN SOMEOTHER FORM?? Like shop matting sold by foot at lowes? that is for 1/4"thick stuff 1/2" thick got to think about that, the ones that Kaiser sell seem to be about 2 1/2" X 1/2" nuts and bolts not a issue so much as the rubber is. have three good sources for #8 bolts, kind of like the closer thread that was used years ago , and i saved every nut and bolt that came off two hulks

[TJones]

Let me check my stuff, I may have what came off mine and if I do I’ll give them to ya.
I got all new ones with my body.

[pelago]

let me check my stuff, i may have what came off mine and if i do i’ll give them to ya.
I got all new ones with my body.



was suggested to find some old mud flaps............. Should get 1/2" thickness out of them for sure

[gmwillys]

Mud flaps will work just fine. A whole lot cheaper too.

[pelago]

new one here, go the data plate set offered by Kaiser but seem to be missing one and in photo can see the four screw holes, but what went in there??

3550

[pelago]

found out it is for the winch, and yes i layed em on there upside down, but wth just playing with them a bit, data plate lower right corner is the place it has to be.

now for something else.

got to get creative again and make a new plate for the steering wheel shaft, got the boot for it and it is a complete circle and when i lay it in there can see how i need to make the other half of the circle

3555

[gmwillys]

Use the boot to get the general shape. The removable floor plate will curve around the top of the column, then bolt to the floor.

[pelago]

got this from kaiser
3568

and i got the rubber boot also and neither one fits (well they sorta fit) going to have to drill holes in floor to get the top mounted and the rubber boot too wide for the top, got to finagle that also

oh well into life a little rain falls
am waiting on the passenger side braces and the rear deck floor to try my plan on lifting body and sliding frame under

on a different note, while moving the other engine to get it out of the way i managed to fall and bust my axx (again) i actually think i might have either cracked or broke a rib, or two, when i hit the concrete there seemed to be a piece of 4X4 layingon concrete and yeah landed on it with left rib

3569

[LarrBeard]

" ... i actually think i might have either cracked or broke a rib, or two ... "

Take part of a morning and go over to sick bay and get them looked at. Bruised hurt and will get better (ice and ibuprofen), but cracked ribs grate around and can work their way into a lung if you fall on them again. We don't want to start '19 in the hospital.

[gmwillys]

I agree with Chief. Better to be have your ribs checked out.
I misunderstood to what was being shown in the photo. I was talking about the boot for the steering column.
As far as the shift boot, the transmission cover you received is correct. There is a different boot than a CJ uses. The boot for an A1 is slid over the shifter cane, then the cover is installed over the boot. In some diagrams to include the TM, show a clamp at the shifter, and one at the transmission tower.

[pelago]

To be honest, i am not at the point where i will be putting these on for good anyway. am getting "antzy" to be able to drive this thing..... waiting on floor brace and rear deck bottom section. looking for a old truck wheel mud flap to cut out shims. kaiser has them but rubber is rubber and if i can make them i can save over 100.00 and that i will need for seats and such. I GOT A WELDER, I GOT A WELDER, I GOT A WELDER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Actually a neighbor that lives across the creek from me, same age as i am, and also a vietnam vet, and is genuinely interested in this project. I actually ran a ad in paper saying what i was doing and what i needed and got several calls and he has a welder and a generator for 220 volts!!

I THINK THAT WHEN I AM DONE I AM CALLING THIS CRITTER 'bruised, beat up, bloody thing" got cuts all over both hands, busted knuckles, cut the hell out of my hand, now what i am pretty sure are busted ribs.............. all done working on this ANY NEW GUYS READING THIS AND PLANNING ON STARTING A PROJECT, HELL YEAH DO IT BUT BE PREPARED FOR BLOOD AND SOME PAIN (OTHER THAT YOUR WALLET)


AND I JUST NOTICED THIS, "Views: 133,243" DAMN!!

[gmwillys]

Good deal on the welder. I like my Miller 175 110 volt. It has worked well the last 20 years, welding up darned near anything. The old Lincoln buzz box barely gets uncovered.

Bloodletting is just part of the fun. Rust and sheet metal work will get you, but wounds heal. You need to get your ribs taped up before you gouge a lung.
Congrats on the 133,243 views! Good content brings lots of viewers.

[pelago]

DEBATED GOING TO ER, NORMALLY this would mean sitting in a empty room on a uncomfortable gurney for 6-7 hours, been there and done that too many times, but i called my nurse contact and told her what i did and i have a double appt fri at noon, hope i can hold out til then, damn thing just not getting any better at all, and can only work one handed, can not lift anything with left arm, just hurts too damn much. probably cracked them or tore carte ledge. just not getting any better and been almost ten days now. but am trying to remain quiet, and i go out and stare at the jeep, but just can not do a freaking thing on it, except make lists... got one dicey area that will be beyond any skills i dont have, which are many and might have to be a body shop thing.

four photos, two of cowl showing damaged area where mirror mounts and two photos of the other body, (one i am using for pieces and parts) showing same area, feel that i could cut out the damaged section all the way to the riser for the front windshield (someone had tried to make a weld there and the welds are separated anyway) feel i could carefully cut this out but not to the firewall welds nor the seam where cowl meets fender, but around the mirror section and replace it with the good one??? comments, good idea, bad idea, horrible idea bad ju ju???

3579358035813582

[gmwillys]

I had a couple of cracks that went through the mirror mount, but they welded up fine. The windshield riser will take a little of persuasion. Cut out the old slobber weld, and start clamping the two pieces together slowly. You could cut out the donor piece and weld it in, but keeping everything squared will be a trick, even if just going to the riser.
Got to Love tri-care. Our military men and women can fight for us, but they have to wait to be served by us. The V.A. makes you an appointment a month out for something the rest of us can be seen about the same day. Rediculous. In my opinion, I would bite the bullet and spend the time to go to the E.R. There is no sense waiting until Friday, and being miserable till then., Or at least they can tape you up until then.

[pelago]

got a ten foot ace on chest now, some relief. Once i went to the VA, and i was sick, i mean sick temp 104 Afib bad, loaded with fluids and they put me in exam room and called 911, i said whoa what is going on and they said you need to be in a hospital . says i who will pay for it, the nurse said VA. wen to er at local hosp and they admitted me right then and off to cardiac ward. they put me on antibiotics because the infection and fever due to biological parasitics from south east asia still. fought it for 12 days and started to get better. Doc said you keep improving we will let you go home. two days later (i lied and said ifelt pretty damn good) so he said you can go home tomorrow. At that very moment a woman from hosp admin said the VA wants us to transfer you right now to VA at durham but in fact will go to duke university. I simply said the doctor is discharging me tomorrow, why go to another hosp 200 miles away? and then the Doctor said he is my patient and he is not going. that sort of ended that. well a month later i got a bill for 138000.00 from that hospital, the VA refused to pay because i turned down the trip to durham. got rather testy owing over 100 grand and had to get senator burr involved and after two years they finally paid....

[pelago]

must be getting old and impatient, stuff supposed to all be here today, new floor for rear deck and new braces for the passenger side.

got lots of pieces and parts ready to go. wiring loom has been repaired but i will need new ends on a lot of the cables, still have the numbrt ifd's on the wires and will lay the loom in the jeep and reconnect as much as possible, the diagram in manual spells it out but got lots and lots and lots of work to do.
managed to get my garage cleaned out, all the junk moved into piles and even swept it and vacumed it with shop vac and even mopped it.

3583

[gmwillys]

Understandable. You've come a long way to be held up by parts shortages. It doesn't help that you're wigned to boot. Getting the shop cleaned up helps to keep things in order. Makes things easier to find, and nothing to trip over.

When I take the wife to her doctor appointments in Birmingham, we pass by the VA hospital. There is at all hours Veteran's milling around, either waiting to be seen, or have no other place to go. As a civilian, we wait a week at the most to be seen at the University hospital. It is a sad state of affairs when the men and women who risk their lives to protect our freedom, get treated worse than stray dogs. Everytime we had to go to the civilian E.R., the waiting room is full of folks from other countries, or have no insurance at all. All get seen, and treated, but our servicemen are left out in the cold.

[pelago]

In 2008 some woman pulled out in front of me and i "T" boned her at 45mph at impact, airbag did not deploy but steering wheel did and eliminated all of my teeth. went to VA and got dentures, only took them a year, only a year. last Aug (2017) i went to the VA dentist 150 miles away, all i got, want treatment I got to go there. Dentist (a ltCol national guard) told me i needed new dentures because i had lost weight and the darn things do not fiT and just plain hurt, asked her how long until new teeth and she just said months. asked how many trips would i need to complete this, she said many visits, many. told her that that was difficult for me 300 miles is a long day and waiting to see appt makes it longer, its a three hour ride to "go to the dentist" I asked are there any options, she said she could recommend that i receive authorization for outside dental care. The Dentist kept her word, three months later i get a form letter from VA stating outside dental care is authorized for me. and it gave a list of dentists in area, i called one and got a appt three days later. Thinking great now i can get new dentures. Kept appointment, show up and am sitting in chair and in walks dentist, after initial greeting he says for me to open wide, I said but doc i don't have any teeth. He steps back and says "but according to the order from VA you are here for Xray, cleaning and fluoride treatment. " Says It is hard to do that when i have no teeth", well they Xrayed. and said we will send in report stating you need new dentures. They did never got a call back from civilian Dentist. So I go see them cold, no appointment and ask what is going on. Clerk said" we are still waiting for them to tell us what to do" ssays I "you call them?" reply was yes but alll they get is telephone tag. all one sided, never a return call.

I go home and i call the VA, telephone tag, called every day for a week, never got a return phone call. And still losing weight and the darned things are so so painful to wear and they even rub spots raw and the gums bleed. I go back to the civilian dentist and ask what do we do, She said "Mr Jones we cancelled our participation in the VA outreach program, they will not return our calls and we have 11 other VA patients besides yourself, and to make matters worse we have not been paid for all the work we have done" says I okay well thank you for what you have tried to do and left. Went to local strip club for a noon look see and a Corona and to think a bit.....

Next day I go to all of the dentists on the list that was provided and find out that all of the other ones have dropped their participation in this endeavor, all for same reason "TELEHONE TAG AND VA WILL NOT PAY THEM"

G o home and write a detailed letter to Senator Burr from NC. mail it.

Two weeks later I get a phone call from the VA office for outside dental care. This woman says "mr jones we have been trying to reach you about Dental care" (YEAH RIGHT) then she tells me that she needs to find a provider that will see me, after 20 minute hold she says the closest i can find is 176 miles away. I then said "what about all these dentists on the list you initially told m about" Her reply is they are not on my list as providers, Then i sort of lost it-------- sez I "I KNOW WHY THEY ARE NOT ON THE LIST OF PROVIDERS AND THAT REASON IS THE GD VA WONT PAY ITS FREAKING BILLS, AND THAT THE DENTIST ARE ALL TIRED OF THE VA BULL CRAP (ACTUALLY SAID SOMETHING DIFFERENT BUT WILL GET CENSORED) , AND SO AM I, LADY I DONT HAVE ANY GD TEETH THAT FIT, AND AM TIRED OF GETTING MY MOUTH FULL OF FUXXING BLOOD WHEN I WEAR THE DAMN THINGS I GOT" And no I did not make an appointment with any Dentist 176 miles away. What i did do is call Senator Burr, and his staff asked if i could come to see the Senator, replied sure would go see the Dali Lama if i got teeth out of the deal. Staffer said we will get back to you and will do this after the holidays.

And that is where it sits to this date. I got more stories, about like when i had open heart surgery and the VA had to pay (took three years) and the VA said i should have driven 150 miles to go to nearest VA facility (yeah right while having a heart attack)

I am total of 176% service connected VA disabled, got 9 bullet holes in me and 7 bullet exit wounds, and two still in me.

WHAT I NEED TO DO IS CALL KAISER WILLYS AND GET "SUITABLE TEETH TO WEAR WHILE DRIVING A M38A1 IN 2019 VETERANS DAY PARADE".............

[pelago]

need a diagram for the seats that show all the parts needed, i might have some of the parts but dont know unless i see aphoto or a blow up diagram of all three seats

[gmwillys]

As a quick reference, you can do a Google search/images of M38A1 seats. I can not cut and paste images, plus I don't have a copy of the TM of parts break down on this tablet.

A man takes 9 slugs in defense of our country, and we can't get our poop in a group enough to make you a set of dentures. It is insane the amount of money the government pisses away on social programs, that there is absolutely no return on investment. You invested your life to us, but we can't take care of you in return.

[pelago]

thanks for that, it is what it is, i am a survivor, at least for past 74 years will survive this also

[gmwillys]

You deserve more than just survive. Whether you want to be or not, you are a hero to me.

Whenever you get all your steel together, we can plan a weekend to get everything glued together. That is the least I can do.

[TJones]

He is a HERO!!!!
Thank You pelago
Try www.surplusjeep.com

[pelago]

back to project in hand, screw the ribs...........and thanks to all for kind comments but i gotta jeep to build
got the new section of floor in and the (not all) thing do not have the same pattern of holes for mounting. there are four holes drilled in it and two fit perfectly, the two main reinforced holes that go thru the reinforced sedtion that bolt to the frame. and there are two holes that do not have corresponding places on the frame one has a steel nut welded in?? and i got more placesd on the frame to mount than i have holes in the new section DRILL TIME?? Looked at the old section of floor still in the one body and can not see what the hole with the welded bolt is for and there is no hole for a bolt in the corner?? the drawing would be looking up at it from floor

359235933591

[pelago]

He is a HERO!!!!
Thank You pelago
Try www.surplusjeep.com



went to the radio section and had to drool over the radios listed, being a ham i could operate them from the jeep.......

[pelago]

This sure ought to tighten things up and make a whole lot more stable kaiser willys floor brace>>>>> took this critter out to the frame and lo and behold the reinforced thru holes lineup perfect

3597

[gmwillys]

Good deal. That will help keep everything squared up.
Since your Jeep was a radio rig to start with, it would be great to get up some gear to operate from.

[gmwillys]

The threaded hole on the floor panel should be for the driver's seat.

[pelago]

Well, if the river dont rise and the dam dont break today is the day for test fit on actual frame.. then welding will commence.

then off the temp frame, any more welding to be done, and then welds cleaned and bottom of entire chasis primed, then undercoated and then finally on the frame with the motor and all......

[gmwillys]

The end is in sight! Be careful!

[LarrBeard]

The end is in sight! Be careful!

There is a condition that infects a ship in the last days of a long deployment.

If often shows up as little tasks going undone, some tasks being done a little carelessly and most often as sleeplessness and a lot of people sitting around the Mess deck late at night playing cards and making going home plans.

We call that affliction "Channel Fever", as in the Channel that leads into home port..

Late stages in a Jeep restoration can generate much the same symptoms. I second the "Be Careful" notion.

[pelago]

I second the "Be Careful" notion.

going back to patience mode and check the list and slow down

[pelago]

another topic, the data plate all of the individual data plates were attached to the master plate by brass rivets,,, where in the hell do you find these

[TJones]

Kaiser-Willy’s has them pelago
3601

[pelago]

Kaiser-Willy’s has them pelago
3601

darn, how did i miss that, thanks

AND isnt this kind of pricey or am i going thru sticker shock 500.00 big ones
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/steel-fuel-gas-tank-fits-52-66-m38a1

[TJones]

I have a plastic one I bought and I’m thinking it will fit yours, it’s brand new and I’ll make a heck of a good deal on it.

[TJones]

Here is what I have3603

[TJones]

Maybe gm or larrbeard could answer the question if it will fit your project
I do know it’s not the large opening for fuel and the fuel line comes out of the top of the tank instead of the bottom like the steel one you showed.

[pelago]

although i want to get it original just about had a stroke when i saw the price and still go to get pick up and gauge info,,,PRICEY!!!!!!!!

[LarrBeard]

Maybe gm or larrbeard could answer the question if it will fit your project


I'm not much of an authority on the "little Jeeps", but from looking at some other places, the CJ tanks just won't fit the M38A1 - different beasts.

Ira; is there enough of the old tank/tanks left to make fixing them worth a try?

[pelago]

" old tank/tanks left" not even a pile of rust, no tanks at all,,, figure with all the accessory crapola will cost about 800.00

[pelago]

progress.. got the body under work so to speak sitting on the spare frame, all three bolts under driver and passenger side in and finger tight with a temp spacer, had to trim the brace some, figured i would. and got two more bolts in where the rear of the front secion meets the frame five total all finger tight, and i can move it on the little dolly attached to frame, actually move it easy.. that is all for today hot bath and actually soak for a while, damn ribs

3604

[gmwillys]

The M38A1 fuel tank is unique as LarrBeard said. The sump and the grenade drop fill make it hard to replace. I thought I had a good spare, but a couple of years back I had a friend with a hot tank. After a day of soaking, we pulled it out, and the bottom was roached. Without sectioning the whole bottom, and a couple inches above the seams, it wasn't worth the effort. You are right, they are proud of the reproduction. Use a boat tank for the time being when you get to the point to run with the body, until the correct tank comes along. I'll keep my eye open for a good one, at a decent price.

The body looks good on the frame. Good work!

[pelago]

taking it so so very slow,,,, got all the bolts in at the new bracket under passenger seat, had to trim the ends off the thing, thought that i would anyway, but will have a tight fit and weld it up to join with the new one. go the solo bolt under driver side, and the two ones on the bakside of cross over were right there perfect match. thats all i did and will pick up on it manana

[TJones]

JEGS Performance has them for $423.00
www.jegs.com
EBAY also had one for $399.00

[pelago]

am going to do something, may be wrong but WTH
ALL MOUNTING BOLTS IN, ALL HAVE SIMULATED 1/2 SPACERS TO DUPLICATE THE RUBBER ONES I HAVE YET TO MAKE
GOING TO LOOSEN ALL THE BOLTS, NOT TAKE OUT BUT GET THEM ALL LOOSE AND SHAKE THE BEHOOYA OUT OF THE WHOLE CRITTER TO GET IT ALL TO SETTLE WHERE THEY ARE SUPPOSED TO BE, THEN TIGHTEN DOWN AND WELD

[gmwillys]

I agree with your method, but check your square measurements to make sure something doesn't need trimmed. If everything lined up and measures out after the shake out, weld it up.

[pelago]

into each life a little rain must fall, damn my neat little dolly system broke, now gotta fix that, and i was so proud of that, could wheel the whole thing out to drive work on it in sunlight then back under shelter, no dew etc

[gmwillys]

When I built the saw horses for the wagon body, I went a bit overboard in the design. It's all 2X6 construction, and is heavy enough to put the body and frame on it, at waist height. The casters are rated for the weight, but they may be swapped out for a larger diameter wheel later on. Nuts and rust chunks have to be swept up to prevent the wheels from locking up. It is nice to roll a project out into the sunlight. Whenever I go and remove more paint, it's nice to keep all the paint dust out of the garage. That scrap covers everything.

[LarrBeard]

' ... a little rain...?:

Ira, you don't get a little rain - you survive hurricanes!

Did you go see the Doc about the ribs ... or did you just John Wayne it?

[pelago]

last question "i plead the fifth" but took busted dolly back and got another one took it home and took the other one off and reinforced the crapola out of them. and went to probably the last shoe repair shop south of raleigh and probably one of maybe (hell i dont know but shoe repair dieing breed) anyway he gave me a bunch of scraps 1/2 solid rubber, enough to make all the cushions for the body that i need,

then had to spend the rest of the afternoon replacing mail box,, 3rd damn time in 6 months, some guy driving down the road lost his cell phone went looking for it wiped out my mailbox went into ditch, whacked and bounced over culvert, then slammed into next culvert and totaled his rice burner. when i went out there he said he was looking for his cell phone, I asked if someone had dialed 911 and no one had so i did, and he did not like that and i said sorry, heard that the last time my mailbox got wiped out. Highway patrol came pretty quick, and then the guys says " I was having blood sugar problems", I lost it, "you lieing piece of shXt be a man tell the truth you were looking for your phone, man up, its only a accident, the world aint gonna end" looked at the cop and said "i live in that house right there, you need me i will be there" and walked off

[TJones]

Sounds like the “Real truth tellers” are getting like the shoe repair shops pelago, don’t feel alone they are few and far in between up north too!!!!

I swear you could write a book buddy!!

137,500 views I think your writing one as we speak, we just need to get it published for ya:D

[pelago]

ya know i wrote one. "Spider web" never did anything with it, but it is a story of a young Marine first time on point. Spider web related to seeing a spider web with dew on it and he swore in his mind it was a trip wire. It did have some funny stuff in it, like the time i blew up a shitter, or when Bn Sgt Major went to take a dump and the seat he was on after so many "burn the shitters" weakened the seat and he went in the hole and no one would help him out. Another time when i was walking across a foot bridge and there was a water buf grazing and had his *** hanging over the bridge and i kept poking him with a broom to get his huge *** moving, well he reared his tail up and yup broom disappeared into his rear end and the last i saw of that buff was him charging across the paddy with about 3 foot of broom hanging out of his butt. Or when i shot a jeep with a 50, had with four dinks in it a

[TJones]

We have Daughter and Son in law that live in Myrtle Beach and next time we drive down to see them I would love to stop by and see your projects and listen to your story’s.

[pelago]

like Guns and model railroad got3608 them too, my railroad got so big i built a building to keep it in and make it larger and it is a work in progress

[gmwillys]

Nothing beats a good war horse story. I agree, you should present your book for us to read. I know I would enjoy it. I finished a good book recently. The Silence of War by Terry McGowan. It was written by a former Marine who had gone on to retire from the FBI. During the early days of the second gulf war, the state department was looking to inbed people who had law enforcement background, to train our soldiers on how to determine who was friend and foe. Long story short, he tells the story of a 65 year old guy who is thrown back into combat, and how things have changed, but have also stayed the same.
Also a good read is Pappy Boyington's book Baa Baa Black Sheep. Then there is another book about the true story of Greg Pappy Boyington. Then I can't forget Carlos Hathcock's book.
We could add LarrBeard to the conversation, and we will have all the stories we could ever want.

[pelago]

I was on a dismount point where there was access thru the wire at a facility near marble mountain, and my colonel said to me "Cpl Jones no dinks come thru this wire for any reason NONE! YOU GOT THAT" my only reply was "aye aye sir" couple of days later two m8's came up both had 4 dinks full of brass and silver crap all over their uniforms and they wanted in, i was behind the fifty just watching and the sgt on the post said "dong laI" "NO" well the first jeep driver put his into gear and started forward.. sez to myself
not a chance bub.. put about ten rounds into the front end of the jeep,, there were jeep pieces going everywhere, and the dinks jumped out and hit the dirt....

My captain came roaring up and started giving me 10different kinds of hell "WHAT THE FUXK ARE YOU DOING THESE ARE GUESTS OF THE COLONEL FOR LUNCH" AND THE VIETNAMESE WERE JABBERING AWAY AND SCREAMING AND THE CAPTAIN SAID I AM GOING TO COURTMARTIAL YOUR ***.. Didnt say a word (good move on my part) well court martial did not happen and the capt had to apologize because he was not aware of what the colonel had said, and my sgt major thought it was funnier 'n hell

[LarrBeard]

my colonel said ...

My captain came roaring up and ...

sgt major thought it was funnier 'n hell ...

Colonels (aka Navy Captains/O-6) generally are pretty mellow have a good idea of what needs to be done. USMC/Army Captains/Navy Lieutenants (O-3) take themselves way too seriously - no body else does.

Sgt Majors (E-9)have seen most everything and understand much more than normal people.

[pelago]

Sgt Majors (E-9)have seen most everything and understand much more than normal people. maybe as far as relations, maybe but i always thought of them as large lumps sometimes benign sometimes not, lot of time they got in the way

[gmwillys]

Now that I have the computer back up and running, here are some pictures for subjects covered over the last couple of weeks;

The first photo is of the transmission shift boot. The boot sticks up through the transmission cover, but stays attached to the transmission.

The second and third is of lifting the complete body from the frame for using the spare frame as a jig.

The fourth and fifth picture is of the passenger side lower rocker repair panel being welded in, then after the skim coating was applied.

[pelago]

now that i have the computer back up and running, here are some pictures for subjects covered over the last couple of weeks;

the first photo is of the transmission shift boot. The boot sticks up through the transmission cover, but stays attached to the transmission.

The second and third is of lifting the complete body from the frame for using the spare frame as a jig.

The fourth and fifth picture is of the passenger side lower rocker repair panel being welded in, then after the skim coating was applied.



i hate you still got months to go to even have one whole body

[gmwillys]

Looking around, there was a hit on a fuel tank for under $400.00. I have purchased parts from this out fit before, and have not had any problems. They charge for shipping, but it is still under any other's price.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Willys-JEEP-M38A1-1952-1966-Fuel-Gas-Tank-MFS004/183535963712?hash=item2abb988e40:g:it4AAOSwMKVcNjw Q:rk:1:pf:0

Don't worry about me. If it takes a year to gather everything together for the body, it's no big deal. I'm not going anywhere, and will stand by my offer to help out. No problem. I've been gathering steel for my wagon project. KW sells the front floor boards, but the steel ends at the storage compartments. The factory piece goes another foot underneath. I purchased a 4X10' sheet of 18 gauge steel, and can make my own floor boards, but need to purchase a bead roller to match the pressed ribs of the original. It's always something holding up the progress.

[pelago]

with all the interruptions and such am surprised that the new floor section is in and welded in, floor braces in and welded. Drs, apt, rain, dental, audiology (hearing aids) am like i said surprised that it is in. rain tonight so down off jack stands and back on dolly and back into garage, dont want bright metal to turn orange... i keep a small space heater going overnight and since garage is finished with insulation, it keeps moisture and dew issues outside where they belong. in fact 28 degree outside and with doot shut the garage is sweatshirt warm

looking at the pictures makes me wonder if maybe i should put fenders on?? actually had not planned on doing tht but???

[gmwillys]

Good deal on getting everything going. What did the doctor have to say about your ribs, and teeth? Having the floor in place, everything else should fall into place

When I did the body work on the body, I didn't have the fenders, hood, or grill. It would be nice to have the fenders to ensure all the mounts at the front of the tub are square. The fenders do have a fair amount adjustability. The one that is shown in the pictures is the third spare A1 that was purchased for the project. By the time it was brought to me, I didn't need anything else, but did decide to use the frame for the jig for checking the body repair. That was a good solid heep. I don't know where it ended up when the project was done with. It was loaded up with the remaining pieces. Too bad, it would have been an easy fix.

[pelago]

DAMN, that thin metal is so hard to fill holes with the mig welder i have, keeps burning larger holes and i just gotta think this out some more

[gmwillys]

You'll need to play with the settings, because each welder is different. I like to keep voltage fairly high, then adjust the wire speed to fill holes. Hit the hole hot and fast, then bounce around to other spots to prevent from putting too much heat in one area. Too much heat will cause the panel to buckle. You'll get a feel for it with a bit of practice. If you back the hole with the copper plate, that will help a lot. The copper gives you a flat surface, then also dissipates heat to prevent burning through. Invest in a long jaw pair of vise clamps for areas you can reach to clamp the copper in place. On the other areas, that's what the handle is for on the copper. It may not be comfortable for you to reach with the sore ribs, but do the best you can.

[pelago]

continuing to fill holes, reduced wire speed to much slower, lessbuild up. However the entire passenger side is now all tacked in, and will have the drivers side ready today./

once all sides are sturdy and the holes still are aligned with the main points to hook to frame, i will tip it on its side because the majority of the new stuff will need to be welded from underneat, section of passenger side about 4" X 4" really dimpled got to hammer that out but have to weld more before i do, dont want to pound welds out.... really want to get the bottom done so i can really get in there and paint it good with primer

[gmwillys]

A bit of body hammer and dolly work will straighten up the dimples.

Sounds like you are getting the hang of this body work business. Is it as bad as you thought it was going to be?

[pelago]

"as bad as you thought it was going to be? " in many cases worst, there are so many spot weld holes and most can not be filled from back side, tons of them on both sides i think the welders go paid by the weld, but we are trying

[gmwillys]

On your next project, invest in some spot weld cutters. The cutters make it easy to cut the top layer of sheet metal. A quick touch up with a grinder, and you are ready to lay in the new piece. Then you don't have to deal with filling holes on the back side.

[pelago]

having to deal with warpin, when welding the frame brace under passenger side floor kept warping, normal i guess,,, ran some bolts thru the floor and frame and will probably leave them there, cut off excess and peen the threads and cover with undercoat, but stops the warping anyway,, got bottom half welded, lots of welding, wheel well, back floor, front flor braces and such

[gmwillys]

Warping is when too much heat is applied in one spot. Stick and move, stick and move. Be like a boxer. The only place that I had issue with welding in the floor, was my own fault. The inside corner of the tool box floor, I didn't move around near enough to disipate heat. The floor pulled upward on the inside radius of the floor. Being that it was on the inside of the tool box, I had to warm up the section with a torch, and beat it back out with a 2x4 and a 2lbs machinist hammer.
You are doing alright. Every day you learn something new. You'll be an expert if you decide to build up the second Jeep.

[pelago]

well, i can relate to the bfh route, think that when i rotate the body to have the passenger side down ai can effectively beat on it, beat it like red head step child (figuratively only), there are so so many spot weld holes that have to be filled and some re used. but making progress

[gmwillys]

A bfh is the only way, from time to time. An 8 lbs. sledge can be used a a body hammer if the job requires it.

A quick story about a bfh. We had an lady that worked with us. She was a little German woman who had moved to the states with her husband. He was an Officer in the German army, and was here to train U.S. soldiers at Fort McMuffin. He passed away due to a heart attach. She decided to go to work, and stay in the states. She was a systems specialist on our command vehicles. We borrowed her for a few weeks to help out on the MRAP program. It was a new vehicle that hadn't been fully engineered, so most parts needed tweaking. She was working to install the driver's rifle mount, but the upper mount was way too long to fit against the 2X2 square tube that makes up the headache rack. Our solution was to bend the amount around the tube to retain the two mounting screws to prevent the mount from rotating. She couldn't bend the tab, so we told her to use a bfh. She spoke a lot of English, but was confused at what a bfh. We spelled it out, bigger friggin hammer. To remember terms, she would repeat new terms in German. Long story short, we learned how to say bfh in German.

[pelago]

" bfh in German. " BUT DO YOU REMEMBER IT?
i think that the passenger side of the jeep will look like a pond after a rock thrown in, but we will see? and there is still professional help at a body shop for specific areas, maybe, maybe not, then again might give it character, could also put a couple bullet holes in it with the garand?

[gmwillys]

That is an option. Character bullet holes would be a good touch. Plus it might make you feel better. To pull some of the ripple out, you can heat the panel with a heat gun, then take a ziplock full of ice and rub the panel. This will cause the panel to shrink, reducing the ripple.

I do remember the German version. The great thing about German, saying hello sounds angry. grober Ve*****ter hammer.



The picture was of my father's M38. He found some bullet hole stickers that worked well on glass, but not so much on paint.

[pelago]

" you can heat the panel with a heat gun, then take a ziplock full of ice and rub the panel. This will cause the panel to shrink, reducing the ripple." whoaaaa a heat gun, would provide enough heat??

"Character bullet holes would be a good touch." maybe i should line them up with the ones in me, got more than a couple

[gmwillys]

A good heat gun will. Direct the heat to the valley of the ripple. You can also put ice water in a bucket, and use an old towel. When the metal is hot, wipe the towel over the valley. The metal will shrink. This is how most paintless dent repair shops fix hail dents.

Since you are still in bare metal, you can take a sanding disk, (paper backed) and flip it upside down in the DA sander. Run the back side on the metal to cause friction, but not remove material. Do this quickly, moving the grinder around, then let air cool. Watch the results, and apply more where needed.

[pelago]

A good heat gun will. Direct the heat to the valley of the ripple. You can also put ice water in a bucket, and use an old towel. When the metal is hot, wipe the towel over the valley. The metal will shrink. This is how most paintless dent repair shops fix hail dents.

Since you are still in bare metal, you can take a sanding disk, (paper backed) and flip it upside down in the DA sander. Run the back side on the metal to cause friction, but not remove material. Do this quickly, moving the grinder around, then let air cool. Watch the results, and apply more where needed.

will try both, or the side will look like a pond after a rock thrown in............................

[gmwillys]

A cone tip on the heat gun works to focus the heat in a small area.

[pelago]

the passenger side of the jeep almost done, doing finishing touches, over 100 spot welds needed to be done, wheel well, floor, repair panel and welding in the circular portion to hold the 24vdc connector, tons of welding to be ground down.

[gmwillys]

Forward progress!

[LarrBeard]

" tons of welding to be ground down. ..."

Take a word from having been there, done that and gotten hurt -

Get a good set of goggles, ones with side shields. When you are working down in close places, grit and spall bounce off things and find their way between simple safety glasses and your cheek - ending up in your eye.

An eye patch spoils your "outlook" for a long time.

As you well know, we're not bulletproof anymore!

[pelago]

"As you well know, we're not bulletproof anymore! " yeah, i know, but two years ago some yahoo tried to rob me at a atm and shot me in the hip, got pissed off and emptied the walther ppk in his chest.................
got goggles

[gmwillys]

Note to self. Don't piss off Pelagro.
Even better than goggles, a good face shield. Tight spaces, not much help there, but if you keep the surface horizontal when you can, that keeps the crud from your eyes. Flapper disks keep down the dust somewhat, being that there isn't a hard stone doing the work.

[pelago]

welding all done, (i think) now clean sand paint bottom and undercoat it

[gmwillys]

Good deal! You are one step closer to parade duty.

I cleaned, primed, and stained the shovel for you this morning. I didn't have any USMC olive to complete. I'll drop some photos in the A.M.

[pelago]

Good deal! You are one step closer to parade duty.

I cleaned, primed, and stained the shovel for you this morning. I didn't have any USMC olive to complete. I'll drop some photos in the A.M.

KOOL, KOOL, I GOT A AXE. Borrowed from usmc many many years ago and two gas cans many many years ago, had been using them for waste oil but will clean one up and paint it purty............. this is way cool. Just came back from hardware store and got a swivel shackle to lift the body up

[pelago]

NC DMV TITLE
First of all had to get two independent dealers to appraise vehicle, did that, not going to say how i did that but i pulled in some favors. Then have to get a indemnity/surety bond using the average of the two appraislas (10K) then the insurance company issues bond.
take the bond to dmv title inspectors and have them come and inspect vehicle, (all they are looking for in reality is the original Willy data plate with serial number (got that covered it is on the vehicle with original rivets
they authorize a title to be issued and the first step is a non operable title (i think in reality this is a way for the county to levy a tax on what i have)
a title magically appears in the us mail.
to obtain plates change the title to operable then get tags

[gmwillys]

They don't make it easy on the honest folks.
Alabama, it's fairly simple. The M151A2 that I had here for a while installing the floor in had no title or paperwork to speak of. The data plates were all gone, and no visible stampings. The owner drove it up to the DMV, they registered it as a homebuilt, made prior to '75, assigned it a VIN, and handed him a tag. Abalama doesn't title anything older that 1975, so a bill of sale is all that it takes. I don't even think that the bill has to be notorized.

[pelago]

bottom line is this is the way the county finds out what you have so they can tax you

[gmwillys]

This whole state is a** backwards. Folks drive around with dealer paper tags until they darn near fall off. I have to haul my 2A down to the county seat, then wait around for one of the ladies can come out and verify the serial number matches my paperwork. I've been riding around with the expired Illinois tag, and nobody seems to care. The insurance is current, so it isn't likely that they would issue a ticket. Like everyone else, I'm on my way to get the tag....
The taxes are dirt cheap, unless you have a brand new vehicle.

[TJones]

I've got a better one yet, I have to file a "Highway Heavy Use Tax" form every year with the federal boys telling them how many trucks we have that are over 55,000 lbs and we pay the tax based on there weight and send a check with the form. When they receive the form they put a red stamp on it and send it back and we take it down and give it to the local BMV to get all plates for my trucks and trailers. Well this year we sent the check,they cashed it and the Government shuts down. So i go and get our plates at the end of December and the lady at the BMV asked where my HHUT form is at and I tell her that we never received it but here is the cancelled check that its been paid and she refused to give me the plates for the 2 big Tandem Dumps that we work almost every day. So I ask her what we should do and she said call your Congressman and B&*%$h about not being able to work your trucks and make a living, As of yesterday we still havent received the stamped form, so needless to say the trucks have been on the road with expired plates.
As GM said not the whole state but the whole country is A** Backwards...........

[gmwillys]

TJones is right! After reading about Pelago's dealings with the VA, your dealings with the feds for your taxes, and our dealing with the military. The whole country is indeed A** backwards.

[TJones]

I just heard on the news last night that they collect 6.5 Billion a year in confiscated drug raid money and the President wants 5 billion for the wall, what do they do with the 6.5 B they collect from drug $$$$ just axing????

[gmwillys]

That would make way too much sense. We dump millions into foreign aid, and medical care for the uninsured aliens, but Pelago can't get a good set of teeth. It burns my a** just thinking about it.

[pelago]

drain the swamp, i know this site does not want to get political but enough is enough. and the swamp is the reason for 90% of the crap

[TJones]

AMEN to that Pelago!!!!!!!!!!!

[gmwillys]

I second the Amen.

[pelago]

back to the m38a1, at the moment i can not do much more about the va other than what i have done and that is write letters to both senators naming names and dates.....
repair time still3816381738183819



oh yeah, i ordered the tailgate section, Kaiser has two one for 649.00 us dollars and one for 324.00 us dollars i asked them why, one us made the other "not", i then asked what is most bought and was told the 324.00. then asked how many returns and was told none, how many 649.00 ones sold and was told only a couple in past years. we shall see

btw, got kicked out of the morehead city va clinic, for calling the good doctor sweeney a shyster and a guy that could not make it on the outside because he was incompetent and could not afford premiums for malpractice and that "I an the fuXXng patient not the fuxxng computer you stare at" almost got arrested sheriffe called and both hwy patrol and sherriff came and was taken outside and talked to them and showed them the chest scar and the both said "good luck with the va" and simply left

[gmwillys]

You'll do fine with the foreign made panel. Buy American when it's feasible, but double the price is a bit much. Both will need trimmed to fit exactly, and you will probably need to adjust your welding technique a bit. The steel used in making the panel will not be as good of quality as the American steel, so it won't take heat as well. New steel doesn't take heat no matter where it's made as the original '50s steel can.

A good doctor practicing medicine is right on average 70% of the time. A VA quack only has to be close 45% of the time. You are right, most of the VA doctors couldn't make it through vetenary school, let alone be an MD. The clinics are nothing more than pain killer dispensaries. My monster in law moved to Mississippi to get my Father in law into one of the better VA nursing homes in the South. The staff did a descent job tending to his needs, and the doctors were pretty good. He was there for three years before passing.

[pelago]

3821

THIS HINGE IS PARTICULARLY TOUGH TO GET OUT OF THE FRAME OF THE WINDSHIELD. Spent over three hours getting one out. has two bolts, which of course even after much heat broke off, and the fact that the whole damn thing is rusted in tight. have cleared one side of rusty debris and what was left of the hinge (not much) replacement hinges are fifty bucks each and that is only for this portion of the hinge. PART OF THE HINGE IS ON A PARTICULAR ANGLE THAT HAS TO BE REPRODUCED IN NEW STEEL................................
FUN AND JOY AHEAD

[pelago]

382838263827

RUSTY NASTY *** HINGES, MANY MANY HOURS TO GET THEM APART AND SOME3 SEMBLANCE OF WHAT DO I DO NE3XT.
Not going to do anything until i spend a 100.00 dollars on a new set of hinges, then will take the frame and have it sand blasted then fix it

[Tim..]

I've been following you from the start. cant wait until you take that first ride when its done. Best of luck.

[gmwillys]

It will not be too hard to section in new metal on the windshield frame. The hinges can be fabricated as well. I'll look around and see if some of the other sources I use has any at a cheaper price. Do you have the glass for the windshield?

[pelago]

"Do you have the glass for the windshield? " more or less, kinda rough, wonder what would happen take them go a glass cutter/supply house?

[pelago]

I have found some windhields on ebay, and they claim they are for the m38a1, but are they? or are they for the cj? and will they allow for split windshield?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202321520341

[gmwillys]

The windshield for the A1 and the early CJ are the same. The first A1 windshields through '55 CJ had a two piece windshield that would pop out like the early Willys. Those frames are hard to come by. The glass can be cut by your local glass cutters. I don't think that there is any curvature to the glass, so it won't be a problem..... I have been wrong before. I thought my wagon windshield was flat, until I pulled it out.

[pelago]

38343835

damn damn. double damn. I was so carefull welding the floor section in, i checked the one hull that still had rusted tailgate section in and measured measured, checked, measured then welded the entire floor section to the rear wheel wells. putting the new tailgate section in i find that the four braces on the inside of the tailgate just do not fit they are 1" too high, damn thing just does not fit. but have to use it.
only solution is to grind down the welds, remove then along the entire floor section that meets new tail section and leave it loose and put in tail section to have it meet both sides and the floor..............................can only say damn, (well can say a whole lot more but all that would come out are @%$#X#$%^&*^%#@@!. if you know what i mean)

[gmwillys]

Measure the length of the four braces and compare them to the ones on the rusted gate. Make sure that the new braces aren't an inch too short. You don't want to cut your floor loose, then later find out that the floor slopes to the front trying to match the short braces. If the braces check out to be the correct length, then check to make sure your floor is level and square to the sides. I use several angle finders when putting my projects together. The angle finders have a magnetic base that will mount directly on the metal. I would place one on top of the wheel house, then one on the floor panel. When they both read the same, then you are spot on. This will help you if your body isn't exactly level. I have six of these, and I like to run them going fore and aft, port and starboard. They will let you know if you are getting out of plumb in a hurry. In the picture, I have two on top of the windshield base/ cowl to let me know when the cowl was in the correct position to install the braces to keep everything in position, in order to mount the driver's side floor panel. There was two more that were on the verticle surface of the dash panel to ensure that the cowl was correct on 4 plains.

https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+R ank%2Cf&q=angle+finder

[LarrBeard]

" ... I use several angle finders ... "

Angle finders are one of those tools that you think you don't need but once you have one or two or several - you find yourself using them in places you'd never suspect.

You can even show the wife that the picture really IS level - as if 0-degrees up and down really would convince her.

[gmwillys]

I have a couple of Starrett angle finders from back when I was a single guy buying great tools. I have compared the $4 finders to the higher dollar finders, and the only thing that isn't the same quality is the glue that secures the magnet. No big deal, gorilla glue fixed that.

If I let the long suffering Misses hang a picture, there would be a hammer head size hole in the drywall, then the picture would still be crooked. I fix pictures for being crooked at the monster in law's house, whenever I go over there.

[gmwillys]

Checking in on you to see how things are going?

[pelago]

Am so involved in this damn tailgate section, going so so so slow cuz only want to do this once. But am making progress. But have no hole for trailer hook up, hope i can find a right size metal hold cutter