well, the darn thing is out

[pelago]

makes sense
will plumb it to have positive pressure (air cleaner) on one side and "ex" vacuum on the other...
cool went out the the A1 and fired it up, the fuel pump vacuum is quite strong, and the pcv valve vacuum comes to a "T" a few inches away from the distributor, this thing has a npt plug on one end, took it out and there is quite a bit of vacuum, quite strong, could easily go from that point to the distributor just inches away. the air cleaner has two ports on it for air, will use one and go to the other side of distributor, should be a good flow of clean cool air coming in and going out the other side to vacuum. probably put a npt plug into the unused port on air cleaner. I have the air cleaner intake pulling the fumes from the crankcase thru the oil fill, but it is only fumes and not any pressure so it should be inconsequential on the plan

[gmwillys]

I don't have the diagram in front of me for the vent system, but if memory serves me the second port goes to everything from the firewall back. The master cylinder fill cap, the transmission/transfer case. Those items aren't critical, unless you just want to be completely authentic. If you replace the fittings with a bronze breather plug, then everything will be happy.

[pelago]

I don't have the diagram in front of me for the vent system, but if memory serves me the second port goes to everything from the firewall back. The master cylinder fill cap, the transmission/transfer case. Those items aren't critical, unless you just want to be completely authentic. If you replace the fittings with a bronze breather plug, then everything will be happy.



have looked and studied the master plan for all vent lines... a plumber nightmare, and my skills at bending tubing would make it cost a ton of money, gonna keep it simple, leave the main vacuum line for the windshield motor, and the pvc side to vent the distributor

[gmwillys]

I agree. Fit, form, and function.

[pelago]

I agree. Fit, form, and function.



one thing i have to be careful with is to NOT interfere with the ability of the distributor to turn for timing adjustment

[LarrBeard]

The little brass plugs look pretty neat ...

[pelago]

the little brass plugs look pretty neat ...



am putting in two pieces of preformed tubing, and will actually cut them and add flexible hose, this way i will not interfere with future timing issues.. (right now the critter is right on the money and starts in less than one revolution of the crank)

[gmwillys]

I agree with either adding a little extra copper to form a service loop, or your idea of the flexible hose. You could use a brake hose, then you will be keeping with the flared tubing and unions.

[pelago]

I agree with either adding a little extra copper to form a service loop, or your idea of the flexible hose. You could use a brake hose, then you will be keeping with the flared tubing and unions.



DONE!! VACUUM FROM PVC SIDE, TO BOTTOM OF DISTRIBUTOR, THEN IT PULLS AIR FROM THE TOP OF DISTRIBUTOR TO THE AIR CLEANER. Took a piece of paper maybe 3"X3" and the vacuum at the air cleaner side held the paper to the end of the tube where it goes into the air cleaner........................
now i can get back to the puzzle factory of the lights

[gmwillys]

Good deal. What's next on the to-do list?

[LarrBeard]

DONE!! VACUUM FROM PVC SIDE, TO BOTTOM OF DISTRIBUTOR, THEN IT PULLS AIR FROM THE TOP OF DISTRIBUTOR TO THE AIR CLEANER.

Ira, you are running a really great school here. I never would have thought about needing to run cooling air through that distributor housing, but once GMWillys described it - it makes perfect sense! I wonder how many guys have burned up coils because they didn't know they needed those vacuum lines?

[pelago]

DUNNO. However there are two ports in the distributor and since it does not use a diaphragm for any kind of vacuum advance they were there for a reason.. and then when i found out their is a resistor in the coil and coil could get hot in enclosed distributor, makes sense. so routed with tube and rubber tubing with enough swing room for timing, original military had a lot of air going thru it, but since i dont have periscope on the A1 well goes to reason air flow, 15.00 dollars in tubing, hose and clamps. have a full inch or rotation left and right

[LarrBeard]

now i can get back to the puzzle factory of the lights


You’ve got several of us looking for extra wire #15’s for you.

Here is a sketch I took from TM9-8014 which covers the M38A1 and the M-170 ambulance. Now, it’s an Air Force manual and there is evidence that all M38A1’s were not the same depending on the contracting service.

But – it looks like wire #15 is a “hot” line to the light switch, which is a junction for everything. # 15 is a branch from #10 through what looks like a 2 0r 3 wire Douglas connector. #11 off the same connector looks like “hot” to the ignition switch and # 25 is a “hot” to the horn.

If your wire turns out to be a second # 15, I’d just treat it as spare “hot” battery connection – tape it up and use it if you need another 24-volt source sometime.

[pelago]

You’ve got several of us looking for extra wire #15’s for you.

Here is a sketch I took from TM9-8014 which covers the M38A1 and the M-170 ambulance. Now, it’s an Air Force manual and there is evidence that all M38A1’s were not the same depending on the contracting service.

But – it looks like wire #15 is a “hot” line to the light switch, which is a junction for everything. # 15 is a branch from #10 through what looks like a 2 0r 3 wire Douglas connector. #11 off the same connector looks like “hot” to the ignition switch and # 25 is a “hot” to the horn.

If your wire turns out to be a second # 15, I’d just treat it as spare “hot” battery connection – tape it up and use it if you need another 24-volt source sometime.

that is just what i am having issues with, somehow, someonein the past whatever years didled with this wiring, am going to create the path to horn, ignition switch and lights have a douglas connector have not found a wire labelee 11,??? so will make one this should help

[gmwillys]

We see wiring butchery all the time. The comms cables usually have pig tails wired in for the soldiers walk man's, so they can have tunes while they ride. Before air conditioning was added to the vehicles, the troops in Iraq would order window units to stick through the side escape hatch to get a little relief while being stationed on watch. The air conditioning was added to the vehicles from the factory not to keep the soldiers cool, but to keep the computers cool.

I thought I found an explanation on the extra 15 wire, but in further examination, it turned out to be a smudged 85. The 85 goes to a hand held light on a M170. No dice.

[pelago]

just going to have to get creative, i repaired and identified what i could, and will have to create number 11. which jumps to igntion, oh well, knew it was going to be interesting. what surprised me was being able to hole a piece of typing paper with the vacuum.. have no idea the volume in the distributor, but that should pull in plenty of cooler air around it. take away the coil dimension and plate with its stuff and cap not much volume left, but got plenty air now

[LarrBeard]

Use the extra #15 as #11, they come from the same source

[pelago]

GOT A BIT OF A BRAIN TEASER?? WHAT JEEP DOES THIS LIGHT GO ON?? two years ago i bought some stuff from a salvage yard in wilmington, and this was supposed to be passenger side tail light and it is obvious it is not 2nd is what i have other one out of catalog??



4295
4294

[gmwillys]

The one in the box looks to be a grill light for an M37 Dodge, or the tail light with the wrong lens installed. The one in the top photo looks more like a marker, because there isn't enough surface area for the regular brake light.

[pelago]

i lost my best friend tody, he snuck out thru grage and got hit by a car4301

[LarrBeard]

Awhhh, man. They're not "just dogs...". Sorry about that.

[gmwillys]

My deepest condolences Ira.

[pelago]

losing Magoo has just taken the wind out of my sail.... it will pass, but guys am not ashamed to tell you i cried and cried for him, and got mad at him for sneaking out. it just hurts, since i am alone now he was my best friend, my confident and protector, i suffered sometimes with ptsd, and would be off in a different time and world, he would not let anyone get close to me, nor would he leave, he would sit touching me, sometimes adtually getting into my lap until it passed

[LarrBeard]

losing Magoo has just taken the wind out of my sail

From all of us who have followed your story, we understand your loss. Magoo went through the hurricane with you. He was your PTSD support as well as a companion. You cried for him, you got mad at him. Just don't start blaming yourself (that's another stage of grief).

Take a couple of days and go fishing to get yourself off the property.

I suggest that the M38 gets a little nickname tagged on a rear panel; "Max Magoo".

[pelago]

maybe, and am looking for another pup, can never replace magoo, but got room in heart for another
name the 38 Max Magoo, not a bad idea

one of these guys is going to be mine

4302

[LarrBeard]

Yellow Labs? - obviously not Black.

Take the runt - that's the one that's had to work the hardest.

[gmwillys]

I second the notion of the runt. May 38 Max Magoo fulfill the part that his predecessor left behind.

Dogs are the most loyal critter that one can be blessed with. They hold the keys to your soul, and protectors of your heart.

We have two dogs that I hold near and dear. My long suffering Misses found the Shepard for me, for a birthday present. The other was a flea market free puppy that was the runt of the litter. Both are great, loyal pups with totally different personalities. The picture of the Shepard was taken on a day last winter where she wasn't feeling good at all. I carried her into the garage, and sat with her until she perked up. By the next morning, she was ready to patrol the perimeter again. That was a great relief to me.

[pelago]

I second the notion of the runt. May 38 Max Magoo fulfill the part that his predecessor left behind.

Dogs are the most loyal critter that one can be blessed with. They hold the keys to your soul, and protectors of your heart.

We have two dogs that I hold near and dear. My long suffering Misses found the Shepard for me, for a birthday present. The other was a flea market free puppy that was the runt of the litter. Both are great, loyal pups with totally different personalities. The picture of the Shepard was taken on a day last winter where she wasn't feeling good at all. I carried her into the garage, and sat with her until she perked up. By the next morning, she was ready to patrol the perimeter again. That was a great relief to me.



thank yolu for sharing your pooches, am doing my best to cope, dogs are with us for such a short time, i had Moxie Magoo for 9 years and he was abruptley taken from me, and i have been around death for a long time, but this really got to me, hewas such a companion, and he was my best friend. truly he was. am now waiting for a new pup, put a deposit on a lab puppy, they were born on easter sunday the day before magoo was killed. the stark reality is he is gone, he is now back in his yard with all of his toys.

am trying to get back into my jeep, and i will survive this, and will cry when i lose another one, guess that is my nature. Dogs are not pets, nor something you own, they are not property, They are truly mans best friend, God put them here for a reason, and he brought such joy to me, i live alone and he was all i had. and am anxiously waiting for new pup. looking forward to bonding with him and hopefully a new best friend. Have had labs all of my life and cried each time i lost one. When i got back from my first tour in RVN i had a lab named Nuba, she got sick, very sick but she waited til her daddy came home, when she greeted me at the door she was like a puppy again, whining crying, tail going wild licking and kissing the way dogs do, I went to bwd that night, and she got into her usual place and died in her sleep that night, peacefully that was long long ago, but still love her as much as i did anyof them and loved Moxie magoo, and always will
thanks4312

[pelago]

okay the m38a1.....
sdudying the chematic hard and doing aligator clip wiring tests the headlights work, but when i donfigure thru the dimmer swtictch nothing?? how in the hell does the light get ground 17 powesrt all the lights, and goes to lamp in dash to tell you hi beam, but where in the hell is the ground

rear light in proper configuration

4308430943104311

[LarrBeard]

Head lights get their ground from wire #91.

#16 is power from light switch on dash to dimmer switch.

#17 is High Beam, goes to lamp on dash and headlights.

#18 is Low Beam.

#91 is ground for headlights. It comes out through the grommet on the headlight bucket and grounds to a lug on the back of the headlight bucket. It looks like a loose piece of wire that is not part of the harness and it could have wandered off sometime or another.

There is a picture showing wire # 91 in TM9-8014, Page 206, Figure 104.

My first wife and I had a big white Persian cat (yeah, a cat) that we inherited from a daughter who brought him back from college. (Daughters have brought back a lot worse...). He became my cat - for example he would climb ladders and "help" me clean gutters. After I lost my wife, he was my foot warmer at night. I had to put him down and I realized that a lot of the grief I spent on him had been grief I had penned up from losing my wife. There will never be another Great White Pooh Cat...

[pelago]

#91 is ground for headlights. It comes out through the grommet on the headlight bucket and grounds to a lug on the back of the headlight bucket. It looks like a loose piece of wire that is not part of the harness and it could have wandered off sometime or another.

it wandered

[pelago]

Great White Pooh Cat...

i know, there will never be another moxie magoo, and i have to HAVE TO not try to make the new pup him

[LarrBeard]

i have to HAVE TO not try to make the new pup him

Critters tend to have enough of their own personality that:

A. They end up naming themselves, and;

B. They end up being pretty dern well whoever they want to be.

[pelago]

dont know whether or not this is true, but have been told that grief will manifest itself in different ways, I lost my middle son a few years ago due to a tragic auto accident and he was in fact at fault, lost my wife, and out of my platoon that landed only three of us left alive, when i lost magoo, i sort of really lost it. My daughter and three grandchildren 3000 miles away and oldest son getting a messy divorce and might lose his *** on the sale of the house....... dunno. but am actually getting back to work on the jeep. Think i might name the jeep Magoo

[LarrBeard]

but have been told that grief will manifest itself in different ways, ... but am actually getting back to work on the jeep. Think i might name the jeep Magoo

A. Grief will work on us in many ways. The classic "7-stages of grief" way oversimplify the process. I lost my father when I was 22 and it was almost 20 years later that I finally realized that I was still mad at him for up and dying on us and leaving us in the situation he did. Absolutely nothing rational about it. Just keep an eye open to make sure that whatever you do or decide is not grief making the decision for you.

B. "Magoo" - not a bad name for a Jeep.

C. Did the info help you figure out ground for the lights?

[gmwillys]

Greif does come out in different ways. I lost a son as a infant through his mother's carelessness. If it wasn't for work, and a war going on, it would have been a different story. You will be OK, but there will always be a hole in your heart left from the absence of your companions.
We may not be blood relatives, but we are your family here. Let us know what we can do to help. LarrBeard has your wiring diagrams listed, so that should get you were you need to be.

[pelago]

headlights, marker lights, dimmer switch.
two switches one supposed to be brand new
original switch, Continuity from source pin (battery voltage) to #17 good #81 good
power it up with pigtails, and ground is good, source voltage good. mechanical switch sounds like it is activating, but a meter on either output is no different no matter what positiion the dimmer switch is in there is source voltage on BOTH 17 and 81 17 also goes to indicator bulb on dash. can not work if source voltage always on 81 and 17'

continuity on cable good, double junction for 81, 17, and the market light
lights new. however when i looked at them the wires just came loose, investigation found that although the correct solder to light itself good whoever the twit was that conneced the cable might have crimped it with 2 oz pressure, had to rebuild two brand new lights. pigtail check of both good and both good for numbers on the cable they match hi/low

NEW SWITCH

source boltage to correct pin zero voltage on 17 no matter what is done to switch
voltage on 81 good and the switch turns it off but still no source voltage for hi beam???
not a good day, but at least i got to see the headlights burn


and can return the new switch after i confirm it DON'T WORK

COUPLE HOURS LATER, I REPEATED ALL STEPS... same results

however i manually pigtailed the brake light plug. good brake lights, and then i put a meter on the switch itself and got the meter where i could see the needle Bingo, pressed brakes and got it, now to get the plug on the switch itself, maybe this is something i should have done before putting the body on.. oh well

4314

[LarrBeard]

Ira:

I’ll swap projects with you. I spent the morning with the neighbor trying to figure out why his “free” Craftsman Lawn Tractor won’t crank. We got it to crank with a jumper to the solenoid, but we think there are at least two defective interlock switches. One is definitely defective now – it came out in several smaller pieces. Of course – no schematic of any kind – just a Parts List harness diagram.

I am assuming that you have the old-style dimmer switch with the Douglas connectors, not the new-style with the Packard connectors. The pictures are for other folks to know what we're talking about.

In your last post you referred to wire # 81 – I believe that was a finger swap – you meant #18.

The dimmer is a single-pole, double throw switch. Power comes into the switch via wire # 16 from the ignition switch. If I have my connector genders correct – wire # 16 will connect to the pin (male) Douglas connector.

Your meter should show continuity from the pin connector on the switch to either the flying lead (which is wire # 17 – high beam) or the socket (female connector – low beam – wire # 18) on the switch.

Wire # 17 connects to a Douglas – Y connector; one wire going to the high beam light on the instrument panel, one wire going to the high beam headlights (another Douglas – Y somewhere else).

The flying lead should never show continuity to the female connector. If it does, bad switch. If the male connector doesn’t connect to either flying lead or the female connector – bad switch.

And, to make this even more confusing, since I’ve never had one of these in my hand – I might have the genders bass-ackwards…..

[pelago]

I GET ZERO CONTINUITY FROM INPUT TO 17 and 17 is hi beam, that fires up the hi beam indicator on dash
do get continuity from input to 18,
when switch activated 18 drops but 17 never there

[LarrBeard]

I GET ZERO CONTINUITY FROM INPUT TO 17 and 17 is hi beam, that fires up the hi beam indicator on dash
do get continuity from input to 18, when switch activated 18 drops but 17 never there

A. I GET ZERO CONTINUITY FROM INPUT TO 17 - I am assuming that you are telling me that the input (#16) to High Beam (#17) is open. If we're counting connectors properly - that says bad switch. #17 drives high beam light on instrument cluster and high beam headlights as well.

B. "... when switch activated 18 drops... ". If that means continuity - I'm thinking that's what it should be.

And - if I misunderstand and ZERO CONTINUITY means connected and "drops" means open - still a bad switch.

It's all still pointing to a bad switch ...

Is this a new switch or a used one?

[pelago]

when in doubt get a hammer
got a small ball peen and tapped it quite a bit and it worked, hi beam, lo beam, and marker lights work and power to the dash indicator light????

[pelago]

horn working as it is supposed to, and all lights working, running, brake, blackout marker, and trailer connection. one light bulb bad in front marker, but voltage there and have to order right rear light one i got just aint right, cojld paint the lense red, but naaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhh and original wiring all repaired and re conditioned (laying it out on plywood sure helped)

[LarrBeard]

when in doubt get a hammer
got a small ball peen and tapped it quite a bit and it worked, hi beam, lo beam, and marker lights work and power to the dash indicator light????

I'm glad to hear that all of the light stuff got straightened out.

I've made aircraft harnesses with knotted ropes and plywood - that is a good layout tool.

And, you used the universal tool to fix the dimmer switch - a bigger Hammer!

You're getting pretty close ....

[gmwillys]

Good deal. You would be surprised on how many issues we have with new out of the box wiring harnesses. Pins not fully indexed, or the wire locks are busted. Being that the harnesses are made by the lowest bidder, in a shack in either Canada or Mexico. Million dollar combat vehicles shouldn't have foreign made parts, period. But even the CAT engine is made in Brazil. Global market we are told, crap is what we get.
Hammers are the best universal tools. If a small hammer doesn't work, increase the size until it is fixed, or you feel better. It may not totally fix the problem, but you will be at a starting over point.

I'll look in the morning to see if there are replacement red lenses available.

[pelago]

Drove it five times around block,,, really need to put fuel filter on, carb gets gorped up with crud and i actually hit it with a hard mallet light taps and the trouble passes. will use inline glass filter. still steers like buffalo with a broom up its butt. am convinced that i need to work on the drag link, seems to be not quite right

actually got into 3rd gear, blocks not all that big... brakes need work probably individual adj and to be bled. what happens with too much brake fluid??

i have the windshield out of cj and darn if they are not identical, wonder if the kit from kaiser would give the split windshield. i measured and they are identical. side by side, can not tell them apart other than one rustier n heck and the other brand new
1. gas ank final install, pickup line and sending unit to be put in
2. wheels and rims, five tires, four rims ( guy that said he was pricing shipping disappeared)
3. steering
4. passenger seat
5. passenger side rear light
6. black out light bulb front
7 instrument cluster
8 windshield glass
9. created/make floor mats out of raptor bed liner

[LarrBeard]

?? "... what happens with too much brake fluid?? ..."

In the truck you have to lay under the truck and fill the master cylinder upside down and blind. There is not even a plate in the floorboard to get to it!

When it gets full, it runs down your arm. I don't think you can overfill - it just runs over and drips .. but I've never played with an M38A1.

Did you get the High Beam light on the cluster figured out?

[pelago]

Did you get the High Beam light on the cluster figured out?

fixed it with a hammer

driving432443254326

forgot what it was like to drive with no windshield even at 30mph gotta get that done

[LarrBeard]

Hitting a bumblebee in the backside is bad for you and the bee...

Ask just about any Harley rider about that.

[gmwillys]

You might need to check out the needle and seat in the carb. Might just have a little crud not allowing it to fully seat. That's when the rubber mallet fixes it.

Early CJ5 windshields are carry overs from the M38A1. They were split windshields, but a single frame. I'm not sure of the break down, and cut offs, but some were a single piece pop out, (ventilated windshield/ or bottom vent pop out). The one that I worked on was a '52, and it was a divided, fixed windshield.

I bright flashlight and a flexible funnel, and you can fill the master cylinder from the engine compartment. The access cover can help you get the plug off, but to see how much you are putting in vs. how much is overfilling is a guess. Plus it isn't fun trying to get your head back out from under the steering column and wheel.

Sounds like your camber is off on your front end. That typically is a good culprit for tough steering.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/tech-guide/steering-service-standards-m38a1

[pelago]

the split windshield on one i have is a rubber gasket type split not steel??, think the kit for glass (two pieces) should work

[gmwillys]

I haven't had time to verify, but I am fairly certain the glass kit will work. I may be all wet, but the steel strip screws over the rubber seal? If I get a chance, I'll look for the answer.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/body-windshield-52-71-m38a1

[pelago]

WELL ORDERING THE KIT FOR WINDSHIELD
NEW TOPIC when running i can hear a pop at exh put hand over exh and will get a pop, not constant but lets say more than occaisonally?? run her up and nothing just a idle thing??

[gmwillys]

You might need to run through the valve adjustment on the exhaust. You might have a lazy spring that shows itself at idle, when the cam is turning slower. At higher revs, the valve closes with a little more force.

[pelago]

You might need to run through the valve adjustment on the exhaust. You might have a lazy spring that shows itself at idle, when the cam is turning slower. At higher revs, the valve closes with a little more force.

did that, and right on the money all four of them,,, and ignition is good, could be the nature of the beast also, because she runs

[gmwillys]

If it is running well, then leave it alone.

[LarrBeard]

If it is running well, then leave it alone.

Yeah, leave it alone. If it's nothing, we can fix it until it's broken. That's "character" for that motor.

[pelago]

starting out in first gear and shifting to 2nd it has a whole lot of energy, and really can not get into 3rd til i get on a highway

[LarrBeard]

starting out in first gear and shifting to 2nd it has a whole lot of energy, and really can not get into 3rd til i get on a highway

Yep, that's the nature of the beast. In low and second, you have a fantastically low total gear ratio. The engine torque peak is at about 2200 - 2400 RPM, and with those low gears, it doesn't take long to get to the top of the curve. You will find that, in third gear, the happy spot is going to be about 45 MPH. Below that, it wants go go. Above that - it starts to protest a bit and it lugs rather than leaps.

With just a little dragging the clutch it also is pretty forgiving when you turn a corner and don't want to downshift to second from high. There is a lot of low-end torque.

You have commented several times about how the M38 drives like herding a Buffalo. I'd suggest taking it to a front-end shop for a complete alignment once you get enough of it together to make the trip. Those folks know all about caster, camber, toe-in and all that stuff. As usual, find a shop with an old guy who understands the process, not just some young person who knows how to punch the buttons on the computer.

[gmwillys]

A Ford 300 I6 engine all sound like hell when idling, but they could pull their weight plus once wound up. You'll be alright.

As far as an alignment, there aren't too many kids out there that have a clue about king pins. With Dodge still running straight axles on their 4X4 trucks, There should be someone who knows what they are looking at. I can get pretty darn close using a tape measure and a magnetic level. We use to align semi trucks and trailers using this method until a fancy laser set up was purchased.

[pelago]

have visited three alignment shops and two said they would not be able to do it, the third said "not a problem at all i have two guys that are old school, get your good tires on it and bring it in" three hundred a wheel..............................at least so far

Got more pieces and parts by ups yesterday,,, right rear light, and enough to finish fuel tank install pick up and gaskets

[gmwillys]

Your alignment may be off just because of the variety of wheels and tires. These Heeps are sensitive about mixing and matching of tires. Even modern jeeps are still using a close resemblance of the suspension that is in your A1. I suppose some shops just don't want the liability of a come back if everything isn't brand new.

[pelago]

right now have four tires all they do is ieep the thing off the ground, no two alike...before alignment time tires and rims

[gmwillys]

Did you ever find a set of wheels? I know you had one deal fall through. If not, check with the guys over at 1/4 ton and military. They might have some originals in good shape.

On their sight, they have repops for $109 each.

I have four of the civilian version, but they need the junk tires taken off and the rims painted. The tires appear to be vintage '47, but hold air. They've even made a few trips to town on my '46. I was planning to cut the tires off and clean/prime, but if you are interested, we can work something out.

[pelago]

Did you ever find a set of wheels? I know you had one deal fall through. If not, check with the guys over at 1/4 ton and military. They might have some originals in good shape.

On their sight, they have repops for $109 each.

I have four of the civilian version, but they need the junk tires taken off and the rims painted. The tires appear to be vintage '47, but hold air. They've even made a few trips to town on my '46. I was planning to cut the tires off and clean/prime, but if you are interested, we can work something out.

do the rims look like this?

yeah we need a discussion on this>>>4334

[pelago]

looking at the display lights in catalog, i looked at price and spit coffee all over the place
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/dash-light-assembly-pair-fits-50-66-m38-m38a1

all of the fixtures are good but no damn lenses and got voltage to the things and the dimmer indicater is right and works but no darn lenses

[gmwillys]

I would either find a red bulb or make up a red lenses out of plastic.

They were the wheels that were on the '47 I salvaged the front frame horns for my 46. The wheels should be exactly like the same as your M38A1 wheels. I didn't think that these had the 5/16" hole between the lug holes, but they do. All four hold air, but one will need a of work done around the valve stem. No big deal, either weld up the hole and redrill, or put in a copper Dowell or punch and weld up. If you are interested, they are yours. If you need for me to take the tires off, and fix the valve stem hole, it will take me two to three weeks to get them right.

[gmwillys]

More pictures;

[pelago]

looks like a candidate for sandblast

[gmwillys]

They run out pretty good. None are bent or warped. We drove the Heep to town a couple of times with them on and there were no bad habits exhibited, even with the weathered tread. The sidewalls were shedding chunks, so I took them off.

I'm sending you a private message with more information.

[pelago]

They run out pretty good. None are bent or warped. We drove the Heep to town a couple of times with them on and there were no bad habits exhibited, even with the weathered tread. The sidewalls were shedding chunks, so I took them off.

I'm sending you a private message with more information.



replied, miss magoo sticking his nose into everything he would sometimes get in between work i would be doing and stick his fat head into the work space and see what i was up to. put a deposit on anew friend, can never replace magoo but got room here for another

4345


and am making back yard so tight even a mouse aint gettin out and the screen door he escaped from now has ole fashioned spring even though it is hydraulic close

[LarrBeard]

looking at the display lights in catalog, i looked at price and spit coffee all over the place
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/dash-light-assembly-pair-fits-50-66-m38-m38a1

all of the fixtures are good but no damn lenses and got voltage to the things and the dimmer indicater is right and works but no darn lenses


I wandered around eBay and looked at "M38 dash light" and related stuff.

Here are some listing numbers:

303141348025


263911369858

113722393986

283473898234

There are some lenses, a socket, and just stuff in the lot here.

And, as for the new friend ... "Awhhhhh, cute".

[gmwillys]

Good find LarrBeard,

A lot cheaper to purchase the piece parts, then the big price for what you don't need.

Great looking puppies!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Military-Jeep-Willys-MB-GPW-M38-M38A1-dash-panel-light-lens-NOS/263911369858?hash=item3d7257ec82:g:AYsAAMXQAF5RhjY D

[LarrBeard]

This eBay vendor guy has a lot of interesting stuff:

bluemoonscooter11

Bits and pieces of MB/GPW/M38/M170/Power Wagon. It takes a while to sort through the stuff ...

[pelago]

for ten bucks each bought three of them.....three lenses, checked voltage at each indicator socket including hi/lo beam and they all are fine and hi/lo only kicks in when foot switch used

[LarrBeard]

"...hi/lo only kicks in when foot switch used.."

That's the way it should be. My grandson couldn't figure how to shift high/low beam on the truck since it doesn't have a turn signal handle!

I saw 10, 24-volt panel lights for $10 somewhere but I can't find them now ... Let me poke some more.

[gmwillys]

I started on your wheels. I don't need no stinking fancy tire machine. Now to break down the other three.

[LarrBeard]

It kind of helps if you don't care if you can use the tire again...

Works for us!

A pilot friend of mine once said any landing you walk away from is a good one - and the company is happy if they can use the airplane again!

[LarrBeard]

Here is stuff you may or may not be interested in. I wish I could find a set of halogen or LED headlights for the '48 - that would light things up a bit better.

M38 M38A1 M37 Willys Military Jeep Dodge Truck G740 G758 Tail Light Bulbs 173870469755

Military Tail Stop Brake Light With Bulbs Old Style M37 M38 M105 M101 8378785 112712638973

7" 24-Volt Military Trucks & Jeeps Halogen Headlight 70/75W 24V Light Bulbs Pair 253210737065

[bmorgil]

Nice old Ford holding down the jack! It looks like some solid Detroit iron.

[pelago]

MILESTONE All electrical functions are now working properly, all with original (heavily) repaired wiriing harness. am missing the blackout light on drivers fender, but it has proper voltage to lead wire. all work thru correct original switch. all instrument gauges work (bad oil and temp sending unit)

43494348

[gmwillys]

The '65 Fairlane 500 isn't too shabby. The engine was stuck, but now I've gotten it loosened up. Now the transmission has to be pulled to install a new ring gear and starter..... When I get some free time.

The black out drive light shouldn't be a real hard item to find. They didn't change much through the years, except the wiring plugs.

[pelago]

435043514352




STEERING SEEMS TO ME TO BE OFF, But am probably premature in even dicking with it until proper tires on it, abd brakes need a ton to engage, again that is not my fortay at all. again tires, they just seem to me to have to put a ton on em to make it stop. but fun to drive it. be better with glass, no bugs in teeth

[pelago]

found glass, took one piece to local glass house and they are cutting two pieces of glass to match what i have. 74.00 versus 218.00

[gmwillys]

That's about what I paid for the windshield on our 2A. A lot better than ordering glass for twice as much, the still having to buy the seal.

[pelago]

another issue.... gauge lights

Need some help, dash gauge lights. for the life of me can not find any of these, thought i had and got them but way way off. need two gunge lights (another thing hard to find is 24 vdc bayonet bulbs) and one hi/lo indicator. i have a socket for a bayonet bulb, and the inside of the fixture has threads in it. ordered three (what looked like would work) off of ebay, but they were not at all for this m38a1 and sent them back. not very large maybe size of a quarter

due to no working oil/temp sending units no meter movement, and no gas tank (yet) again no movement, but battery indicator good

43574358

[gmwillys]

Looks like you have a guage cluster out of an M170 ambulance version of the A1. Surplus jeeps may be able to get you what you need. Included are some links that may be helpful as well.

http://www.surplusjeep.com/M38A1/m38a1-group_6_electrical.htm

http://www.2040-parts.com/original-dash-lights-bulbs-for-m38a1-m170-m715-m725-m37-m35-i1170680/
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=48702

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=9163

[pelago]

GAS TANK IS IN!!!! am now taping entire floor area of body to put in bed liner floor mats
seats, windshield, rims and tires and it is ice cream cone time

[gmwillys]

I'm hoping to get back to the rims this weekend. Work has been busy the last couple of weeks. Still planning to have them done up by Memorial day.

[gmwillys]

Alright, time for plan B. I finish breaking down the tires last night, then this morning started cleaning off the old paint and rust. The pitting and soft spots are much worse than I figured. I can fix it, but it would take more time then I have to spare. To do it right, the steel would have to be built back up with weld, the turned back down to true it all up. I don't have access to a lathe big enough to handle a wheel bigger than a wheelbarrow.

I'm going to check with some of my sources to see if they have any extra wheels. Worse case scenario, I will purchase one wheel and have it delivered to you. If I can find some originals from either Georgia, or Illinois, I will bring them to you.

We'll get this worked out.

[pelago]

Alright, time for plan B. I finish breaking down the tires last night, then this morning started cleaning off the old paint and rust. The pitting and soft spots are much worse than I figured. I can fix it, but it would take more time then I have to spare. To do it right, the steel would have to be built back up with weld, the turned back down to true it all up. I don't have access to a lathe big enough to handle a wheel bigger than a wheelbarrow.

I'm going to check with some of my sources to see if they have any extra wheels. Worse case scenario, I will purchase one wheel and have it delivered to you. If I can find some originals from either Georgia, or Illinois, I will bring them to you.

We'll get this worked out.

this will work

[gmwillys]

I haven't forgot about you. I've been busier than a one legged man in a butt kicking contest all week, but will meet with the owner of the M38A1 that I worked on in the morning. He is a hoarder of parts, and he owes me a favor. If that doesn't pan out, I'll go with plan C.

[LarrBeard]

this will work

We haven't heard from you in a week or so.

Make a noise so we know you're still around and kicking - otherwise we're going to declare you MIA and give all your stuff way.

[TJones]

He’s probably bonding with that new puppy!!

[pelago]

Had something happen that has never happened before. Onslow County sheriff deputy stopped for a health and welfare check.... Actually it was quite nice, and enough that i need to say thank you, been a loner so long that am not used to people caring whether i live or not, and really it is nice. Puppy update i get him on the 14th going to call him Mac, short for Sir Mac McLintock the 1st from Hubert NC.. and have been able to go into back yard where magoo is. dont know how much they mean to you until they are gone.
Gentlemen, thank you

[gmwillys]

We've been keeping a look out for you. We miss you when you are off the grid. We are all a bit of a family here, and when one is quiet, we are all concerned.

Sir Mac McLintock is a great name!

[TJones]

Glad all is well pelago!!
It’s so good to hear from you, we were all getting worried that maybe you got fed up your Heep and sold it for $50,000 and said the hell with these goofy guys that want to mess with these money pits:rolleyes:
I hope your new pup helps fill the void of losing your Ole Buddy Magoo.
Please don’t stay absent so long, we miss your Wisdom and Experience!!!
But most of all we miss your stories!!!

[pelago]

I APOLOGIZE, This is a great group, and my hearts just not been in the jeep, My eldest son is going to paint Magoo right under the windshield on the frame, and am so so looking forward to gettin the new puppy

Been watching with interest some of the stories about D day, and i want to say Yes the greatest generation. My son asked me what was it like the first time you got shot at, i asked in the Marines or Chicago? He said "dad", First time in RVN got wakened up about 0200 lots of noise, was standing outside my "tent" looking NW towards dog patch and saw these green globs floating in the air coming towards me, and then they would zip by my head, I said WTF??? my 1st sgt tackled me and said Son What in the Hell are yo doing? Those are tracers from a heavy, I said tracers are red he said You idiot ours are red theirs are green

[TJones]

There we go pelago Thats What I'm Talking about!!!!!!!

I understand what your talking about when you say "your hearts not been in the jeep" every once in a while we just have to walk away from it, I find myself getting frustrated with mine too. I have been almost 2 years on mine and I am getting tired of looking at it and asking myself WTF........ IS IT EVER GOING TO GET FINISHED!!!!!!
So I say the heck with it and stay away for away sometimes for a couple of weeks....

Thats Great that your Son is going to paint Magoo on your frame, that way when someone ask you can tell them that Magoo was an Old Buddy and was one of your Best Cheerleaders in the process!!!!
Maybe you can have him paint Mac on your Jeep somewhere as well!!!!!

[gmwillys]

Pelagro, you do not owe us an apology. You have an ear with us. We are here for you regardless of your needs. We aren't just Heep guys. We have been working on vehicles that have come back from the front for the last 10 years. Each vehicle tells a story, and wether it did it's job in bringing the groups back home or not. We have an engineer that we just brought in under contract, and he proudly served in the Marines. He was nearly killed serving in Iraq. He stops by my office just to talk. Last week we closed the door and he broke down over the loss if one of his friends that he served with. He died due to suicide. On average we lose 25 soldiers a day, every day due to suicide. The VA is useless unless you want to be medicated to a catatonic state. The American people have failed you, and everyone who has served.

The great thing about a project, you have the ability to walk away for a bit. I walk by our wagon twice a day at least, but haven't had a good amount of time to even work on it. If I get a chance to call about the wheels this week, I'll get it sent to you.... And the shovel.

Take care my friend, and we look forward to you showing off your new pup!

[pelago]

4519452045214522


from a land far far away and a time long long ago

[gmwillys]

Time heals some wounds, but others last a lifetime. Thank you for sharing!

[bmorgil]

A handsome lad for sure! Wow.... it is tough I'll bet to... think about that time. I hope there are things about it that bring a smile to you.

Awesome reminder of history in those photo's.

Please never forget, there are many lives that you saved that you don't even know about. Those of us that were waiting for our draft number to come up for instance. I was scared beyond belief. The word we heard was not good. The news was horrific. If you boy's weren't so fierce, you can bet that thing would have went on even longer. Me and many more would have went. The fact you were there and fought so bravely, kept the crazy world in check somehow. No mater what was going on, the US military would fight. And fight well.

I have to know, is that an M1 carbine in .30 cal? It looks like my dad's favorite rifle from Korea, his M1 carbine.

[pelago]

M14 in both photos, and the short guy next to me is a Montygard tribal chief, great warrior, first tour M14 subsequent ones m16 and 45 cal

since i am a member of the north carolina team i have a m14. and two m1a's one configured as a sniper with tactical scope sighted in at 800 yards and it holds 3" at 600... memories, someone needs to ask about the time i blew up a shitter



pistol4538

[LarrBeard]

OK - the rumor mill said that you get to bring "Sir Mac McLintock the 1st from Hubert NC" home today.

We want to see pictures of our sorta' adopted Grand Dawg! You have to share.

[bmorgil]

M14 in both photos, and the short guy next to me is a Montygard tribal chief, great warrior, first tour M14 subsequent ones m16 and 45 cal

since i am a member of the north carolina team i have a m14. and two m1a's one configured as a sniper with tactical scope sighted in at 800 yards and it holds 3" at 600... memories, someone needs to ask about the time i blew up a shitter



pistol4538

pelago, do you shoot at Camp Perry? I used to go every year. I was bummed out when they moved High Power to Indiana! I shot M1 Garand at 14 years old in the CP. The gun was heavier than me! No M1 thumb on this boy however! I could hit the target at 600 yards. We will leave it at that.

[pelago]

do you shoot at Camp Perry?
25 YEARS IN COMPETITION, WAS FORTUNATE ENOUGH TO WIN THE GARAND MATCH IN 2008

[LarrBeard]

" ... No M1 thumb on this boy however!... "

Well, I've managed to give myself an M1 thumb on both hands. I was looking at an ejection problem with a rifle out of the stock and upside down. I reached over with my left hand to pick it up and the M1BearTrap slammed on my left thumb! It's awkward to get it opened with the action upside down.

I think I had to go change underwear.

I'm a little short stubby guy and the M1 fits me better that the M1A. I don't like to hold the M1A by the magazine resting on my left hand and I'm too short to comfortably reach around to the front of the magazine. Last year was the only year I'd missed Camp Perry since 1998. I was there the year they airlifted Pelago off to the hospital. If I remember correctly, he didn't get shot - some old shrapnel worked its way out and scared the Medics to death.

And, even as a Hoosier, I like Camp Perry better than Camp Atterbury - it's 45 minutes closer to go to Port Clinton and a nicer drive.

But - over the last two years the CMP has put together a really nice program for High Power Shooters with the CMP Cup and CMP Games Matches.

http://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/2019NMCalendar.pdf?vers=090818

http://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/19NMBooklet.pdf?vers=061419

Arthur Rightus has me really hurting right now and I'm not sure if I will go over this year or not.

I am High Power Director for my local club and one of "my" High Power Shooters won the Garand Match last year and set a new National record.

I dearly love the sweet smell of burned H 4895 on the spring breeze ... IMR 4064 is pretty nice too.



(It doesn't take much to get us off the track does it?)

[LarrBeard]

do you shoot at Camp Perry?
25 YEARS IN COMPETITION, WAS FORTUNATE ENOUGH TO WIN THE GARAND MATCH IN 2008

Folks, this guy is not telling a Sea Story it's the real thing. In 2008 he was indeed #1 in the Senior (over 65) Garand competition (99-2X, 99-3X, 91-2X; 289-7X Aggregate).

In the overall Garand Match (1179 shooters) he was # 3; 4 points behind a guy 30 years younger than him.. He beat several guys who are currently shooting at National Champion levels.

Oh yeah, I finished only 980 places behind him ...

https://ct.thecmp.org/app/v1/index.php?do=match&task=edit&tab=results&match=3426

[bmorgil]

Oh my... I had no idea! If you like the smell of H4895 then you need to be around when I light off my .338 Lapua! 92 grains of H1000 under a 270 grn Hornady XLD. Big smoke and bang. It will ring a 24 inch gong 2 miles away! (I have seen it, I have not done it, yet)

Wow are we off track. You guys are shooters! Some serious credentials there guy's! I have no doubt seen you both at Camp Perry. It is a small world.

I only shot the Garand shoot a couple of times in the early 1970's. If I remember correctly, they had just started the program. I did qualify. I weighed about 130 pounds soaking wet. That big 30 ought six kicked me like a mule. So glad it was an automatic. I was lucky enough to have a friend whose dad was a bench rest-er. He made his own rifles. Big heavy 30-06 Springfield actions and Mauser M98's. He bought the M1 through the CMP program and entered me in the civilian shoot! I think he thought I had natural talent. Now I am sure I looked hilarious and he wanted a good laugh.

And pelago now I know who you are! I always look forward to my Rifleman mag reporting on The shoots. I know I had to read your name in 2008. I am going to my back issues now. 91 and 1 STANDING with an M1 Garand! are you kidding me!!! I can think of very few young men who can hold a loaded M1 at shoulder long enough to do that.

[gmwillys]

I'm sure glad Pelagro is on our side. He is right up there with Carlos Hathcock in ability , and I bet if he would write the book he was talking about, it would be a best seller. The shitter story is a great one!

If anyone ever makes it to the CMP store in Anniston, or the new range at Talladega, look me up. I haven't had a chance to visit the range since it opened.

[pelago]

oh my... I had no idea! If you like the smell of h4895 then you need to be around when i light off my .338 lapua! 92 grains of h1000 under a 270 grn hornady xld. Big smoke and bang. It will ring a 24 inch gong 2 miles away! (i have seen it, i have not done it, yet)

wow are we off track. You guys are shooters! Some serious credentials there guy's! I have no doubt seen you both at camp perry. It is a small world.

I only shot the garand shoot a couple of times in the early 1970's. If i remember correctly, they had just started the program. I did qualify. I weighed about 130 pounds soaking wet. That big 30 ought six kicked me like a mule. So glad it was an automatic. I was lucky enough to have a friend whose dad was a bench rest-er. He made his own rifles. Big heavy 30-06 springfield actions and mauser m98's. He bought the m1 through the cmp program and entered me in the civilian shoot! I think he thought i had natural talent. Now i am sure i looked hilarious and he wanted a good laugh.

And pelago now i know who you are! I always look forward to my rifleman mag reporting on the shoots. I know i had to read your name in 2008. I am going to my back issues now. 91 and 1 standing with an m1 garand! Are you kidding me!!! I can think of very few young men who can hold a loaded m1 at shoulder long enough to do that.

do you remember in 2015 when the shooter got medeviaced off of vialle??? Some old guy had a piece of shrapnel come out and take a artery with it?? Yeah that was my dumb *** getting loaded into the chopper

[pelago]

Once i took my grand dads 03 match to the range at butner, using his dope on a 3X5 card still in his handwriting i loaded a round and first shot in over fifty years was a 10 just out of the X ring at 1000 yards and i used a lyman sight to do it, that was so neat using his rifle that he shot at perry in 1938

[TJones]

Happy Fathers Day pelago, Hope you have a Great Day Buddy!!!!

[bmorgil]

Happy Fathers Day to all dads!

pelago, WOW! No doubt all that recoil shaking up your veins. I am sure glad you made it through that.

I am stoked about your Grand Fathers rifle shoot. Man using his data first shot! That makes my hair stand up. If anyone doubts he was standing right there with you, they are of very little faith. The shear difficulty of a 1000 yard shot, the data must be perfect to even get a hit. A X first shot, that is unreal. I am going to say you did that with a 70+ year old gun? At least the action. I am guessing it was a Springfield 1903?

To get back on track... what was it like shooting a mounted gun on a rolling Jeep? I know you know!

[TJones]

We need to get pelago4564 this sign for his place:eek:

[pelago]

4565 03 target rifles
three of them, top one is 03 match grand dads, second one is a m1922 set up for prone, shoots sub minute at 100 yards with 22 match ammo
the other one is a standard m1922, it is unfair to squirrils

also i have unertly scopes for both match rifles

shot the first team sniper match and only got the silver, shot a perfect round but my partner shot two 9's used a original model 1941USMC sniper rifle made from a 1929 national match, done in philly in 1942 has a 8power unertl scope on it holds i minute at 600 with sling
45684569

[pelago]

4566

Got him>>> after being with him i felt he was not a Mclintock but he sure as hell is a Jake, so that is what i call him Jake, photo of him after serious play time and he is zonked out

[LarrBeard]

Dawgs and cats seem to name themselves after we get to know them.

[gmwillys]

Jake is a great name, along with a great movie.

[bmorgil]

Wow... classic beautiful rifles. I love the scopes.

I can't see Jake! Something about "call Admin bad attachment"

[pelago]

45734574



here the little guy is

[TJones]

WOW He does look like a Jake pelago!!!!
He's a good looking dog.

[bmorgil]

Oh man, hes a great looking pup!

[LarrBeard]

Just Dog tired .. and he looks so serious

[gmwillys]

He's a keeper! Glad you have a new companion!

[pelago]

Mr Jake at 8 weeks, and he does like his sleep, in full housebreak4593



mode having some success getting back to jeep very very soon

[gmwillys]

He's a fine looking Mr. Jake. He's a smart one already!

[pelago]

a question, changing oil
seems as if the oil filter canister is reluctant to drain out?? when engine oil hot is should drain shouldn't it??

[LarrBeard]

a question, changing oil
seems as if the oil filter canister is reluctant to drain out?? when engine oil hot is should drain shouldn't it??

The actual element doesn't retain as much oil as it seems like it should a lot of the time. When you shut the engine off, most of the oil in the filter element drains back down into the engine - but there is generally enough to make a mess if you don't move smartly getting it out of the canister.

In my cannister, there is a puddle left in the bottom around the brass fitting where it all just doesn't make it down the drain. I take a paper towel and slop it up.

If there is more than a couple of tablespoons, check the line going down to the timing gear cover for a restriction.

[pelago]

dont think i had oil hot enough to readily drain, new compressed fittings on new hose

[pelago]

BEEN LOOKING AT THE FUEL LINE OFFERED BY KAISER....
am in final stages of fuel tank. Fuel tank in and am deciding on either the 100.00 fuel line set up or just simply use hose. Thinking of hose, run the hose as the steel pipe would be ran, on the "NON EXHAUST" side of the jeep, along the frame and cross over under radiator with hose. The kit comes with some things i will not need, such as line from pump to carb, already have that. All i would need to do is lay the hose and connect it to frame with stainless seizing wire. since i have a short piece of tubing coming out of fuel pump attached to small length of hose to gas can i will not need the rubber connect from steel line to fuel pump. Much less dollars for hose?? comments?

also got to thinking of the fuel gauge set up, the tank is pretty well covered with both paint and undercoat and concerned about ground, would be tempestuous at best. Plan on running a ground wire from one of the screws that hold gauge in to chassis ground.... comments?

And the "Jakester" growing fast, now 10weeks old and forming his personality. Pretty active puppy and still doing the housebreak routine. Sort of successful so far, sort of.....

[bmorgil]

Jake is just markin' his new turf!

Steel is the best way for durability and what not. However, there are a lot of marine craft out there that run nothing but hose. I had some trouble with my boat that was hard to find. I put in a 540 cube Chevy rat motor. 617 hp. Took it out after a few years of good running and suddenly it developed a full load lean misfire. I could not find it. Then one day I was changing the fuel filters and I looked inside the hose. The chemicals (most likely Ethanol) had attacked the inside of the hose and it had swollen almost shut on the siphon side of the pump. The prolong setting with fuel in the siphon side worked the hose hard. The supply side was dry and, in good shape. The hose was from a high end supplier of stainless steel braid covered rubber fuel line. I also had some trouble with my '77 Chevy. It dissolved the factory rubber after prolonged setting. I do remember long ago that there had been issues with fuel lines when Ethanol is in the fuel. I don't know if they ever completely solved it.

If you go hose, make sure it is Ethanol compatible.

[LarrBeard]

Plan on running a ground wire from one of the screws that hold gauge in to chassis ground.... comments?

And the "Jakester" growing fast, now 10weeks old and forming his personality. Pretty active puppy and still doing the housebreak routine. Sort of successful so far, sort of.....

A. By all means run a separate ground from one of the screws on the flange of the sending unit to a good frame ground. Don't depend on a mounting screw for an electrical ground.

B. Before you get everything buttoned up, you might want to do a gauge calibration - senders, gauges and tanks do not always match up very well. Check to see just how far down into the tank the pick-up tube runs. On the replacement tank for the '48, it took almost three gallons to get fuel to the pick-up tube. We added a bit - not enough to get into the sludge and grit on the bottom, but a little.

By the way, you can do this with water. Put a gallon in the tank. Suck on the fuel line and make sure you are getting fuel. If you are, this is your reserve level. Install the sender, check to see that it sits at about "E". If it does, you know your "gotta buy gas" spot. If you want another gallon reserve, add a gallon. You can adjust the float arm to bring it back to "E" if you want to.

Now, fill it up. Hopefully you get to "F" about the time you get about 17 gallons in the tank. If everything goes right. "F" on the gauge will be close to full on the tank. If not, bend the float arm to get a compromise you can live with. "E" is what matters most, but it is annoying to have "F" with only five gallons added to the tank.

If you used water, the exhaust of the shop vac dries things out in an hour or so.

C. Scratch Jake behind his ears and scratch his belly for us. Give him a doggy treat for the fourth.

D. Take care of yourself too!

[pelago]

If you go hose, make sure it is Ethanol compatible.

yes yes yes

[pelago]

4640




a tired puppy played hard

on a different note, the floor area of Mr Magoo the jeep now has sprayed on bed liner, olive drab from the company. passenger and drivers side hit heavy, entire back deck two coats. everywhere a foot can go is now protected, am quite happy about it

[gmwillys]

A ground wire would be a good idea. I ran the short wire to the sending unit, but also piggy backed a ground wire to the body. Another way to calibrate your fuel sender is to plug in the sender and a ground outside of the tank, then measure the depth of the tank, then adjust the float for where you want it to read empty. Then check to ensure it reads full when raised.
I would buy some lengths of 3/8" brake lines and make your own fuel lines. It's your choice on what to use for fuel line. I wouldn't use ethenol in your Jeeps fuel system, because the alcohol is hard on the fuel pump and carb. We have one gas station that has 100% gas.

[bmorgil]

I wish I could find 100% gas! The only thing can get without Ethanol is Racing Fuel. 106 octane and $5 a gallon!

[gmwillys]

Here the 100% gas is $0.30 more a gallon. You can purchase additives that will reduces the effect of the alcohol in the fuel. Race gas does smell good, but at $5.00 a gallon, it will get expensive.

[pelago]

after many discussions with auto parts stores and here and various costs involved the kaiser willys best solution. yes there is ethanol safe rubber lines, used in many injectors, high cost though, so another order for willys stuff

[pelago]

putting in the new oil pressure sending unit. Have to comment on the wire on the 60odd year old wiring harness, have no idea who or where this wire came from but it is exceptionally good, have only two more connections to make,,, fender blackout light and temp sending unit. Every piece that i have repaired (ends mostly) has been in great shape, no crude, no powder, really neat old wire

Now when i have to run a new section or repair a section this is what i used
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor--14-awg-primary-wire-by-the-foot--P0214049?recordNum=3

I have used this wire for years and years, i completely rewired Pelago my Alberg designed sloop and it never fails, word got around that i knew what i was doing and i re wired many boats at $65.00 an hour, ownere would groan and i would say i am very good but i am not cheap, you want cheat get some yahoo that uses lamp cord and your wire melts and corrodes to powder.. that was enough, would bid on the job by how many hours i thought...

new issue, new oil pressure gauge. new sending unit, good hookup, good wire, sits there at 45 does not go to zero when ignition turned off????

[gmwillys]

Often times, the harnesses would last a lifetime, unless the Jeep was subjected to salt. Sea salt or road salt from the Midwest, would deteriorate the harness. Good wire is expensive, but worth every penny. Your expertise on wiring boats was worth every penny as well.

The oil pressure gauge you are using is the original gauge you had when first starting the engine after rebuilding? If nothing else has been changed except for the sending unit, then the sending unit is retaining pressure when none is applied. If the gauge wasn't used until now, then the gauge itself may be hanging up at 45 psi, and won't go down to zero.

[LarrBeard]

new issue, new oil pressure gauge. new sending unit, good hookup, good wire, sits there at 45 does not go to zero when ignition turned off????

Not unusual - senders and gauges don't match very well. I replaced the sender on the truck and with engine off it read about 15# , running about 50#. I know at cold idle it was about 30# on mechanical gauge.

It took 8.2-ohms in series with the gauge to get it to settle at 30# running, close to 0 engine off. I'll send you an 8.2 ohm resistor - I bought several, plus some other stuff, just to justify shipping. Your gauge and sender may be a little different, so if this does't exactly work, juggle values a little.

[bmorgil]

Here is a good diagnostic. Helps out with the correct readings for all electric senders. I think they might be talking 12 volts however. You will have to convert the readings to 24 volt I think?

http://www.precisionspeed.com/technical-support/

This is an excerpt from it. I hope this isn't it!

b) Pointer resting at some point well above minimum dial scale reading, but not stuck at full CW (off-scale). Replace gauge. This is an abnormal condition that should not occur and could only be caused by a fault within the gauge or damage to the gauge caused by the application of an excessively high input (power) voltage or subjecting the gauge to extreme environmental abuse. Once again the cause of the failure should be investigated.

[pelago]

what is confusing is that with a mechanical guage and tubing hooked right at the oil port i read terrific oil pressure and the meter moved with rpm, this darn thing goes to 45lbs and sits there no movement at all, kinda discouraging all of it is new?

[LarrBeard]

what is confusing is that with a mechanical guage

Forget my suggestion about fixing an electric gauge....

[gmwillys]

No electricity needed here. I know he had a gauge on the engine on start up, but wasn't sure if it was the original gauge, or a new one, etc. There must be a link or restriction in the tube.

[bmorgil]

Forget my suggestion about fixing an electric gauge....

Forget the diagnostic on electric senders.....

pelago, I am not quite clear. Are you saying the old gauge had more movement than the new set up? Or, Did you test the new gauge outside the dash and it was fine. Then the new gauge seems stuck after you put it in the dash? If after you put it in the dash, the tubing from the block to the gauge got pinched, kinked or bent to sharply, that would make the gauge act like you are describing. Is the tubing from the block to the gauge plastic? If it is, that stuff is notorious for kinking with the slightest provocation.

[pelago]

i think i might have confused some here. when i turn the ignition switch on the gauge goes to 45lbs, when i start the motor it never changes, something wrong here this should not be, when i turn engine off i tap on the gauge and it goes to zero?? the gauge in question was from a supply house in wisconsin and was new in the box. when i was first starting on the engine i had a old mechanical guage in the jeep it was hooked to the oil port by a tube and had fantastic oil pressure.. when motor started it would be in high forties and when it warmed up it would stay at 40+ - amd the oil presssure reacted to the rpm of motor. only other guage i have is the original and no i have not tried it. review. new gauge, new wire, good voltage correct connectors, new gauge , new sending unit 0-60psi sending unit, turn switch on it goes to 45lbs, start motor no movement at all, tap on glass and nothing stop motor and tap on glass it goes to 0

[bmorgil]

That sounds like a bad gauge.

[LarrBeard]

I’ve had a weekend to think about your oil gauge problem and I wonder if you have an issue because you have a gauge for a 6-volt or 12-volt system and you are using it on the 24-volt M38A1.

As I look at the various M38 Forums, I see a lot of chatter about gauges and sensors. It looks like somewhere in the M38A1 production, the gauge was changed from a 60 PSI gauge to a 120 PSI gauge. There are conflicting opinions about compatibility of 60 PSI and 120 PSI system components. Some folks seem to think if you put a 120 PSI gauge onto a 60 PSI sensor, you will read the actual oil pressure (just low on the gauge) and others think the gauge will read twice the actual pressure.

I look at the KWAS catalog and I see that the oil pressure gauge kit (KWAS P/N 647054) has a sensor, gauge and two different resistors in the kit.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/instrument-panel-oil-pressure-gauge-kit-6-12-or-24-volt-fits-41-66-cj-2a-3a-3b-m38-m38a1

I haven’t bought this kit, but I’d wager that the gauge is a repro gauge that is basically a 6-volt gauge with one dropping resistor for 12-volt systems and another for 24-volt systems. It claims to use an original sensor, but it does not say if it is a 60 PSI or 120 PSI sensor.

In your case, I have a guess what is happening. You do not mention a dropping resistor for the gauge. The gauge you bought may be basically a 6-volt gauge. When you hook it up to 24-volts on one side, the sensor on the other and turn on the ignition – you pin the gauge full scale plus. (You may not have done this with your Simpson 260 – but I have done it to mine). If you peg the needle, it sticks. Peck on the glass and it returns to zero. Since the gauge is still working, you probably have not burned it out – yet.

If you have some radio buddies, try to find a 100-ohm, 5-watt wire wound variable resistor. Set it to 100-ohms, put it in series with the gauge and sensor. Turn on the ignition, the gauge should sit at zero. Start Max Magoo up. The gauge may not read anything at all, it may read a little or it still may be high- but not pinned. If it reads nothing or low, reduce the resistance until you get your normal cold idle oil pressure. If it reads high, we’re on the right track, just not enough resistance yet. Let it warm up and see where the pressure on the gauge goes. You might put a tee-fitting on the oil port for a cross check with a mechanical gauge.

Once you have the variable resistor set where it looks right, measure it and install a fixed series dropping resistor behind the gauge. That is what the KWAS kit seems to be doing.

You would do a great service to the forum if you would do a little science project for us. Could you take the Simpson 260 and measure the sensor resistance with engine off, then measure the resistance with the engine at cold idle, hot idle and at hot cruise engine RPM. No one seems to know that simple answer and it would help us with the next guy’s problem.

Good luck and keep on spoiling Jake!

[pelago]

okay, here goes readings 10 09 am
motor off cold 20 ohms

start hi idle 20 ohms

ten minutes a
high idle 13ohms

ten more min 8ohms

normal idle 8ohms

while motor running manually adj throttle and got from 8 ohms to 20ohm meter movement, it reacted quite fast to adj of idle. two pictures motor off and one of motor on after running for a while


46414642

ANOTHER GROAN MAYBE I HAVE TWO OTHER GAUGES FROM SAME SOURCE SUPPOSED TO BE ORIGINAL M38A1 GAUGES BUT??? THE BATT INDICATORS IS GOOD BUT FUEL AND TEMP??

[bmorgil]

For reference, "Vintage" 12 volt GM fuel and oil pressure gauges use the same sender impedance range. 0 ohms = 0 and 90 ohms = Full scale, a range of 90 ohms. You are only getting a range of 12 ohms. It seems you should see a lot more range?

[pelago]

NO, DON'T AGREE off i 0 ohms, cold running it starts at 20 Ohms and that is with a tested comparison to a mech gauge cold start oil pressure is at 40lbs, 30 min later it is something between 30-40psi????

[bmorgil]

pelago, it seems as if something must be wrong with the sender or the gauge that's for sure. Can you hook up a mechanical gauge on a "tee" at the block? Maybe you could start it up and compare the two readings just to be sure. Unless its a real good electric gauge, it may not respond the way the mechanical gauge did. Mechanical gauges are very quick to react. Maybe it is reading correctly just, not very fast? As far as the needing a "Tap" to go to zero after you shut it off, that doesn't sound right.

[pelago]

have already done that? a mechanical gauge at junction of oil port with a "T" at start up mechanical gauge went to plus 40lbs psi, electric gauge read 45 (but then again it always reads 45 does not matter if it is off, on or whatever when ignition OFF repeat OFF it reads 45, when ignition turned on it reads 45) however the mechanical gauge reads perfect oil pressure after warm up it reacts to rpm as it should. sending unit is new as already stated several times
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/oil-pressure-sender-60-fits-50-66-m38-m38-a1 this is the sender and it is 24volts

tap on glass to go to zero?? what can i say you tap on the sob and it goes to zero, turn the freakin switch on it goes to 45lbs motor not running

[bmorgil]

I think we know the mechanical is telling the truth! It is sure sounding like the gauge and/or the sender is bad. Why not put the old mechanical back in? I would not use the sender or the gauge at this point. It sure is a mystery.

[pelago]

I think we know the mechanical is telling the truth! It is sure sounding like the gauge and/or the sender is bad. Why not put the old mechanical back in? I would not use the sender or the gauge at this point. It sure is a mystery.

EVEN THOUGH THIS HAS BEEN DONE MANY MANY TIMES (MILLIONS PROBABLY) Just dont want some tube coming out of engine that has oil in it, then routing it thru whatever to the gauge... just dont want a chance of line breaking and losing oil

[bmorgil]

My son feel s the same way! Gotta go with your gut pelago! There are also millions of vehicles running around with electric oil pressure gauges.

I do know that electric gauges are usually dampened. Perhaps the dampening in the gauge you have is so strong, it just goes up to pressure and sets there. I wonder if it is just flat sticking at 45. It sure seems that way. The fact it stays there after you shut it off, it is looking that way.

[LarrBeard]

EVEN THOUGH THIS HAS BEEN DONE MANY MANY TIMES (MILLIONS PROBABLY) Just dont want some tube coming out of engine that has oil in it, then routing it thru whatever to the gauge... just dont want a chance of line breaking and losing oil

I'm going to twist Mike's arm to see if I can borrow a gauge kit to do a science project. Nobody in the M38A1 world seems to really know what does what, especially with NOS senders, repro gauges and adapter resistors.

Hang in there Ira - help's coming!

[pelago]

damndamndamn double damn, put in the old gauge the original (no idea how old) this one goes to 60lbs and sits there, for insurance purposes i made a 5 point ground jumper cable and ran it to all of the gauges.. ground is ground the world around and continuity on panel is great

dont care what anyone calls this thing it is nothing but voltmeter, to read oil pressure and it is controlled by a variable resistor called a sending unit

[pelago]

TOOK THE OLD GAUGE OUT AGAIN.................. TAPPED ON IT A WHOLE SHxxLOAD OF TIMES WITH SMALL MALLET AND RE INSTALLED, NOW HAVEMOVEMENT, SLOW BUT IT IS MOVING START UP HIGH AFTER A WHILE IT GOES TO 40 THEN SLOW TO MAYBE 35 HI IDLE,, AFTER TWENTY MINUTES RUN TIME IT RESPONDS TO THROTTLE

I HAVE TO ADMIT I BELIEVED ADVERTISING TO A DEGREE, BUT THESE GAUGES ARE IMPORTED FOR SURE BECAUSE THE DAMN NUTS ON THEM ARE METRIC

[gmwillys]

Sometimes the mallet must come out. Being that these were OEM gauges, and you purchased them from a reputable dealer, then a little stiffness could be expected. Glad that you made forward progress.

[pelago]

sometimes the mallet must come out. Being that these were oem gauges, and you purchased them from a reputable dealer, then a little stiffness could be expected. Glad that you made forward progress.

no, i beat on the original gauges from the 50's and it worked, kinda slow but it worked start up pretty high after oil and engine temp warmed up they sat at 30lbs and reacted with throttle, not like a mechanical but worked

[LarrBeard]

no, i beat on the original gauges from the 50's and it worked, kinda slow but it worked start up pretty high after oil and engine temp warmed up they sat at 30lbs and reacted with throttle, not like a mechanical but worked

Sometimes it takes a BFH (BIG FAT HAMMER) and then at times a LFH (little fine hammer) to make things work. Gauges are an ongoing mystery because of the variablity of repro gauges and senders.

I can only speak to my experience with the truck. The truck uses a thermal gauge for the Oil pressure. I don't know what is in the innards of the M38A1 gauge... . In the original condition, the truck sensor was another thermostat-like sensor that we managed to burn up through some as yet undefined oops. I replaced the original sensor with a modern sensor that is a variable resistor.

A. The new resistor sensor didn't match the gauge innards, it registered 15 PSI with engine OFF and 50+ PSI at idle. A series resistor cured that to my satisfaction.

B. As Pelago notes, the resistor sensor driven gauge responds much slower than it did with the original sensor or a mechanical gauge. It takes about a minute to come up to my 30 PSI set point and about a minute to go to 0 after I shut down. That is gauge heat-up and cool-down time, not actual engine oil pressure.

The M38A1 installation is a bit confusing since at some time in the M38A1 lifetime, the Army made all oil pressure gauges standard across their vehicles - 60 PSI gauges were phased out and 120 PSI gauges became standard. Did they change sensors too? The other Forums are not sure or even have conflicting information about that.

As we say about the First Rule of Jeep:

What we see is what we have. Trust nothing you read until you verify it.

[pelago]

CONTINUING TO MARCH
Raining today, was going to put Magoo in the drive way and adj brakes, more leg room in drive than in garage. not sure if they are "right". but since not gonna do that will probably 'diddle' with the kit i got for the windshield, have two pieces of glass cut, we shall see.
Going to leave the oil pressure switch/meter as it is for now, i get oil pressure when it runs and good pressure at that. got other things to spend money on

[bmorgil]

I agree pelago. Sometimes you just have to forge ahead! What a crazy oil pressure gauge. I am getting the feeling that getting the brakes adjusted just right, is a task that has to be done a lot.

[pelago]

I agree pelago. Sometimes you just have to forge ahead! What a crazy oil pressure gauge. I am getting the feeling that getting the brakes adjusted just right, is a task that has to be done a lot.

especially since i have never done it before and do have manual, but also do have a neighbor that can do it blindfolded and sure will have him watch over my shoulder and make sure it is done right

[pelago]

Split windshield. Have the new frame, (really is identical copy from old one, whoever did it did a great job) have two pieces of new tempered glass, have the weatherstripping and the material to lock it up....................................
What i dont have is the skill set to put the damn thing together. Five pieces of "shtuff" spent four hours and did not even get close. Going to go back to place that i got the glass and ask them to do it, what say you 100.00 sound about right, these guys in windshield trade got all the secrets and stuff to do it, i sure don't

OLD FRAME AND NEW FRAME

46524653

[gmwillys]

I did the same. There is a glass company down the road, and they wanted $125 to cut and install the tempered glass. Sounded good to me. They couldn't use the rubber seal that I had purchased here, due to the thicker glass then original, and the replacement window frame. They used some 3M sealant, and it looks pretty good. The outter rubber seal did fit real well, and keeps the breeze from leaking in between windshield inner frame and outter frame.

[bmorgil]

I also did the same. And it was a very good thing. I called in some guy's who did a lot of Semi Truck work. They recognized the seal immediately. They also informed they cut that type of glass in the shop. The glass was very close but, the contour was off and, when the seal was installed it was to tight. They had a diamond belt sander, and went back to their shop to get it. In a few minutes they re-countered the glass and it went together like a glove! No scratches on the new paint. The seal is smooth all the way around. Sometimes you just have to pay the "Guy" who has done it many times before.

[pelago]

i also did the same. And it was a very good thing. I called in some guy's who did a lot of semi truck work. They recognized the seal immediately. They also informed they cut that type of glass in the shop. The glass was very close but, the contour was off and, when the seal was installed it was to tight. They had a diamond belt sander, and went back to their shop to get it. In a few minutes they re-countered the glass and it went together like a glove! No scratches on the new paint. The seal is smooth all the way around. Sometimes you just have to pay the "guy" who has done it many times before.
fortunately i had both pieces of old glass, no longer viable both had cracks but took both pieces to glass shop and they matched it perfectly,,,,,,, but i just dont have the damn skills to put it together and will rely on them because this is what they do

[pelago]

Front brake adjusted and bled word for word out of manual, never done it before?????

[bmorgil]

Did Jake pump the brake pedal while you ran the bleeder screw?

I followed the book word for word on the adjustment procedure also. I sure had a hard time getting the wrenches on the front lock nuts. How did you get the bottom lock nuts? I had to grind down and bend an old box wrench. I think it definitely will take me a little practice to get this right! A whole lot different than jacking up the old Chevy and turning the star wheel till the shoes drag.

[gmwillys]

See if this video helps any.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPag0szK_PE

[pelago]

Did Jake pump the brake pedal while you ran the bleeder screw?

No but he decided that it was a good time to try and eat my left ear while underneath jeep

[bmorgil]

did jake pump the brake pedal while you ran the bleeder screw?

No but he decided that it was a good time to try and eat my left ear while underneath jeep

Good boy Jake!!!!

[bmorgil]

See if this video helps any.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPag0szK_PE

That is a great video. I had a lot of trouble getting the adjusters to lock the brakes. I also had to modify a 3/4 inch wrench to get to the front lower lock nuts. The knuckle is right there in the way. I wonder where I could get that 3/16" adjusting wrench he had? That would be awesome. I was using a small crescent wrench.

[pelago]

12 weeks old sunday, full of piss and vinegar. If it on the floor its his

[LarrBeard]

If it on the floor its his

Old trucks, old guys and young dogs have been known to dribble on the floor .....

No matter - it's our fault.

New Subject:

Stand by for a lot of information about Oil Pressure Gauges, sensors and related stuff. My science project is over, but it takes as long to write it up as it did to do it.

[gmwillys]

That will make a good read on the oil pressure gauges! Jake's getting right in there to help!

[pelago]

46574658


got to thinking if i bust a piece of glass it is on me but if a glass house does it is on them
100 bucks later

[bmorgil]

Nice work!

[gmwillys]

Looks great!

[pelago]

Moving on, i removed the old vacuum motors and they are toast. need to be rebuilt/replaced, got all the rest of the fittings the hose connectors and such. have seen some vacuum motors on ebay, one was new old stock?? comments??

[gmwillys]

The new old stock would be iffy. The rubber diaphragm may be dried out and will leak on something that has been sitting on the shelf for 60 plus years. Might want to look into rebuilding what you have.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQ_MMKfhSwM

http://oldholden.com/node/95377

[LarrBeard]

This guy rebuilt the motor on the '48.

https://rebuildingtricowipers.com/

Make sure your vacuum booster on the bottom of the fuel pump is working.

[bmorgil]

LarrBeard, I was looking for a "new" rebuild kit for mine with little success. I have an old NOS kit. Like gmwillys, I wonder how good it is. I also have a NOS motor. It actually is working. It's Olive Drab, military stock for sure. I lubed it with light machine oil. Do you think I should "let it ride"? I wonder if I should just send it off to your guy. Was he expensive?

[LarrBeard]

Let it ride. If it's working, resist the urge to fix it until it doesn't.

Light oil or brake fluid seems to be a good lube for the flapper gaskets that ride on the sides of the U-shaped well. I suspect brake fluid may make them swell up a bit and seal better. In some motors, on the flapper, there is an unobtainium leather washer and a light spring that die.

And, like everyone who has a corner on the market - he's not cheap - but he does offer a 3-year warranty.

[bmorgil]

OK going to paint it black and let it ride. I used machine oil because I am afraid brake fluid will drip out on my paint. I agree with your logic however. Brake fluid would swell up much better. I read that brake fluid is the original method the factory required. Every 3 months! Then I read that Ford put out a tech that on the Model A they wanted you to switch to machine oil do to the paint issue.

Now... I have been googling to see what the, and trying desperately to learn to pronounce "unobtainium leather". It is my new word of the year. So you have fine Corinthian leather interior in your car? Well I have Unobtainium leather in my wiper motors! LarrBeard that word is priceless.

[gmwillys]

Unobtainium is a perfect term around here. I see it used constantly.

[LarrBeard]

Unobtainium is a perfect term around here. I see it used constantly.

I’ve just got to tell this story:

In the early 1970’s I was working on a proposal for some aircraft radio system on which Magnavox (the company name that year) was teaming with another company as a bidder. We were writing proposal sections under impossible deadlines and trying to write “here is how we are going to do it” stories quicker than the real engineers could finish analyses of what was possible.

I was writing a transmitter section and every analysis we had done indicated that the transistors were going to be way too hot to meet the reliability guidelines we had been assigned. It was about two o’clock in the morning and in weak moment I made the statement that we would meet the derating spec by using high temperature silicon-unobtainium alloy final devices in the transmitter. (I honestly don’t know if I had ever heard the term before, I may be a co-inventor…). I knew full well that one of the staff reviewers would catch that remark and I would have to rewrite it the next day – but it was getting to be Oh-light-thirty and I was out of ideas.

By the next day another panic hit and I never revisited the unobtainium section. The proposal draft was sent off to the integration team at the prime contractor (it may have been Sylvania) and folks started to pull things together. Someone found the phrase about 1:00 AM in another all nighter session. As I found out later, the prime contractor threw a fit – but as more people read the section it got funnier and funnier and people ended up in a case of the sillies.

It actually led to folks taking a look at what were patently unrealistic reliability specifications and modifying several sections to reflect reality. I got the Golden Pencil Award for that proposal – a badly gnawed #2 Yellow Pencil with No Eraser glued to a scrap of plywood with a marking pen inscription.

I would probably get fired for that today. People take things ‘way too seriously. As I once told the boss of the month “Don’t take yourself so seriously, sir. Nobody else does.”

[pelago]

"I’ve just got to tell this story"
Way cool, should have sent the thing to Collins radio!!..
wish I still had my KWM2A, actually had one in the travel case with pwr supply and full crystal pak,, got stolen by movers on household move and i could not get full value from gov when i reported it....

[LarrBeard]

... should have sent the thing to Collins radio!!.. wish I still had my KWM2A,

A. Collins was our primary competitor in the UHF aircraft radio business. Magnavox and the succeeding companies did not do HF radios and we only did VHF-FM (30 -88 MHz) as a repackage of VRC-12 modules into the ARC-131/FM-622 helicopter radio. Probably the high point of my career was when we put the ARC-187 into just about every P-3C in the world - a Navy aircraft that had been a Rockwell/Collins platform for years.

B. But, having said that - Collins built great HF radios. The KWM-2A was a neat package of radio. I wish I had one too.

How is Jake doing?

[bmorgil]

OK fellas, my father communicated with his parents from Korea via HAM radio! low AM frequency "skipped" around the atmosphere. His best buddy was involved with the early "Short Wave" stuff.

[pelago]

OK fellas, my father communicated with his parents from Korea via HAM radio! low AM frequency "skipped" around the atmosphere. His best buddy was involved with the early "Short Wave" stuff.

WAS INVOLVED IN NAVMARCORMARS FOR MANY MANY YEARS I ran the largest tty and phone patch station in the world, we had 46 acres of antennas five three curtain rhombics pointed from antartica to east coast to far east
three 100 foot towers with 7-30mhz log periodics on them. Dipoles all over the plqde. station open 24/7 ran thousands and thousands of phone patches all over the world.

[pelago]

HERE IS WHERE I AT
ordered steel fuel lines rubberlines just no gonna work. oil pressure gauge itself is so sluggish, just old i think because when put a simpson across the sending unit it responds so good... temp sending unit just sort of sits there and does nothing..... Foot area covered with same coating as underneath only olive drab and it comesout real close to the original paint. sort of in holding mood tires next and title

[bmorgil]

WAS INVOLVED IN NAVMARCORMARS FOR MANY MANY YEARS I ran the largest tty and phone patch station in the world, we had 46 acres of antennas five three curtain rhombics pointed from antartica to east coast to far east
three 100 foot towers with 7-30mhz log periodics on them. Dipoles all over the plqde. station open 24/7 ran thousands and thousands of phone patches all over the world.

My father would have loved to meet you! He was deeply involved in Amateur radio. It was his favorite hobby. He was big in 2 meter FM. His skills in electronics was phenomenal.

Steel lines are a good choice. I don't know what its like on your Willys, but on mine it was tough to install. I would have been way ahead to put the fuel line in when the body was off and the master cylinder was not in. I waited till I had the body on and the tank in. Wow it was impossible to get that thing in there. I ended up loosing the master cylinder. It was still very difficult If I did it over again, I would cut, flare and splice the line with a union.

[LarrBeard]

WAS INVOLVED IN NAVMARCORMARS FOR MANY MANY YEARS \

Ex N0AAR, N0NPE, N0GAQ2/2,N0ASG/4 plus Custodian at several shipboard stations that are long forgotten. I ran the 4B1B Indiana Traffic Net for several years - probably served as the termination for your TTY traffic. Long gone - the internet killed MARS.

Now - new question about Max Magoo's oil gauge issues:

The Jeep is an early M38A1 as I recall, with the Douglas connectors. Is it a 60 PSI or 120 PSI gauge/sender pair?

My latest Science Project has been trying to understand the oil gauge transitions as the M38-series evolved. Early M38's had 60 PSI gauges with Douglas connectors. As things transitioned, they ended up with 120 PSI gauges and Packard connectors.

Probably the most useful gauge/sender combination would be a 60 PSI system (you can just see what is happening in the engine better with a 60 PSI gauge) - the 120 doesn't tell you much at hot idle.

The bad news is that I can't find a 60 PSI sender/gauge pair with Douglas connectors, it would need you to put a female Packard connector on the vehicle wiring harness, either as a splice or as a jumper cable.

The best choice for a gauge is an MS24541-2 gauge (Indicator, Pressure: 24 volt DC, Range 0-60 PSI). Here is a source for a genuine MS gauge - there are a couple of different configurations of the face and dial but the MS drawing allows that variation.

https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/3739/Engine-Oil-Pressure-Gauge-60-PSI

It needs to be tied to a 0-60 PSI Sender, MS24538-1 (Transmitter, Pressure - 24 volt DC 60 PSI). Mike has that MS P/N, KWAS 8376490.

The gauge has been a pain, but that is probably the ONE gauge you want to be right!

[pelago]

great advice on oil pressure, yeah it is a stinker
new item
Obtained a title, got plates, whole process ad NCDMV $493.70 that did include a custom plate 52-M38A1 that will arrive in a couple of weeks. but have temp tags now and registration.......

NEW ITEM
What would the ohmic value of temp sending unit at ambient or cold tem. and what should it be at say 175 degrees F

I may be mis evaluating what i have? using the original sending unit and a new meter
when hooked up to sending unit it just sits there and does not move, but when i put a simpson on the sending unit and reading at X100 value i get following
at ambient temp of 68 deg f (air temp outisde early morning 68d f) i get 6k
at ambient temp of 91 deg f (aair temp oudside at noon 91 d f) i get 5k
after 10 min warm up engine on i get 1.5 k
after 20 min warm up enging on i get 1.1k
what do you think????
sending unit working okay and meter movement not right?


JUST REPEATED TEST.... KINDA WARM OUT AND ENGINE HAD NOT REALLY COOLED DOWN MUCH FROM RUNNING HOUR OR MORE AGO
WHEN RUNNING AT SOMEWHAT FAST IDLE ENGINE TEMP SENDING UNIT WAS READING 1.1K AND DIGITAL ELEDTRONIC SENSOR SAID 168 DEGREES AT THE SENDING UNIT AND AT THERMOSTAT

motor off for 45 minutes, and now reading 4.5K

[pelago]

Interesting.
had to connect ground to all things in the instrument panel, ssince ground is ground the world around but not on the instrument package for the m38a1. now is at chassis ground and all lights and whistles work including new oil pressure guage, start up and its at high 50, after a warm up it sits at 30

[LarrBeard]

There are all kinds of temperature gauges available. Some are just look-alike repro gauges that bear only a slight resemblance to what was actually in the M38A1’s. Early M38A1’s had the Douglas connectors on the gauges and electrical system. The Douglas connector gauges, as far as I have been able to find so far, were Ordinance gauges with part numbers like 7386865.

About 1953 or so, someone put their foot down and the Mil-Spec (MS) standardization began to replace Army Ordinance, Navy NAVSHIP and BuAer and Air Force AF – parts with standardized parts for all of the military.

In later M38A1’s, panel gauges went to Mil-Spec numbers. There might be different gauge styles 0-60 PSI vs. 0-120 PSI – but a Mil-Spec for each one.

As for a temperature gauge, as I look at catalogs and pictures, the most common M38A1 gauge showing up is a gauge marked MS24543-2 (Indicator; Temperature, Electrical Resistance: 24 Volt DC, Range 120-240 degrees). Just for giggles the -2 gauge is “non-luminous”. The -1 gauge, which was been cancelled, was luminous – it had a radioactive adder to make it glow in the dark. Original R-390A radios had luminous gauges too – that’s why I glow in the dark now).

Good ol’ MS24543 only tells you that the temperature gauge “Must operate linearly and accurately when properly connected in a circuit with associated transmitter MS24537”. At least we have a gauge/sender pair we can kind of depend on.

Now, when I go to MS24537, there isn’t a lot of info there either. The spec gives three temperature/resistance points:

Cold 120-degrees F 2360-ohms (+10%, -15%)

Hot 200-Degrees F 710-ohms (+/- 5%)

Too Hot 240-degrees F 310-ohms (_+/-8%)

I’ve asked folks on this forum and the g503 to measure thee coils in the temperature and oil pressure gauges, but no luck so far.

Just from an eyeball look at the resistances in the MS chart, at about 170 degrees engine temp, the resistance of the sensor should be considerably less that 2360-ohms and a bit more than 710-ohms. It looks pretty non-linear, but your 1.1K to 1.5K might not be too far off.

What is the P/N on the face of your gauge? Is it still one of the original gauges or a repro/NOS unit?

And, that instrument panel might not be ground after you did such a good job of getting off all the rust, priming it and putting a nice coat of paint on it. You did too good a job. Sometimes you have to skin off a bit of paint to get things to work.

[pelago]

frustrated..... got new fuel lines from kaiser. came in many sections one thing in common is that they all had 5/16 inverted flair ends all male, i drove 150 miles went to all auto parts store within 50 mile radius. nada.. went on internet and after 1/2 hour found them and ordered them
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/62252408?rItem=62252408

[LarrBeard]

That's the Jeep equivalent of "Batteries not Included".

Like your local auto parts places, places around here tend not to have what I need and I get the answer "We can get that for you in a couple of days". Well, I've already wasted a morning running around looking for whatever I want and if I have them order it, I have to make another trip to the store to pick it up. Fuss and complain as I do about Amazon, at least things show up on my doorstep.

You are overdue to post another picture of Jake - and the M38A1 as well.

[pelago]

Well, am diligently working on fuel lines.. Need elbows and unions to make it work and have to have them sent via internet, but found them. Two tires and rims on front now
photos of jake coming got to get his *** to sit still though

UNIONS AND 90 DEGREE PIECES CAN BE ALSO FOUND AT WWW.DISCOUNTHYDRAULICHOSE.COM

[pelago]

Jake just wond sit still unless
14 weeks today
4672asleep

[bmorgil]

Happy Birthday Jake!

[LarrBeard]

Jake just wond sit still

That baby is just Dog Tired. There is just too much to see and too many things to keep track of.

[gmwillys]

Happy belated Birthday Jake!

[pelago]

Need bolt pattern FOR SPARE TIRE CARRIER to drill rear end of m38a1, no holes in tailgate?? Dont want to gorp it up

[gmwillys]

I don't have the measurements, but I do know that the holes had inserts in them to prevent the body from collapsing. You can replicate the effect by over boring the hole through the stiffeners to the size of a section of pipe. The hardware was 3/8" if I remember correctly, so you need 3/8" i.d. pipe. When you put your flat washer on, you won't see the mod. I'll pull the pictures up in the morning to see if we can come up with reference points to get things pert near close.

[pelago]

well, that is a start.... should be straightforward, the braces that came with the new tail section was not predrilled, but then again i groaned at 180.00 for a spare tire holder, going to see what i can come up with

[gmwillys]

They are proud of the carriers.

[pelago]

Jake got all tuckered out from supervising the hook up of all the fuel lines......****a real pain in the *** too, got bruised all to heck running the darn things***
jake at 15weeks

4694

[pelago]

HAD A LITTLE TROUBLE WITH GAS LINES. ONE FITTING AT THE FIRST 90 NOT QUITE TIGHT ENOUGH, AIR GETTING INTO AND THAT CREATED A PROBLEM AT PUMP AND CARB. BUT GOT IT SORTED OUT AND CONNECTED THE FUEL GUAGE IT SAID LESS THAN A QUARTER, BOUT RIGHT PUT FIVE GALLONS IN. drove it to nearest gas station and filled it up. not happy with brakes, i am just not knowledgeable to adjust these things i think i have it right and it is just not. also have a bad gasket at the fuel bowl on top and it is getting air in there and screws up the float. just can not find a gasket all by itself unless i get a 40.00 rebuild kit... damn
SURE GOT A LOT OF WAVES AND HORNS HONKING AS I DROVE AT 40 MILES A HOUR.......
OH YEAH FUEL GAUGE WENT TO FULL WITH 15 GALLONS MORE

[bmorgil]

I too am not real happy with how mine stops. It has a completely rebuilt brake system. The adjusting hardware is not new. I think that was a mistake. I have some work to do also. I found that simply loosing the lock nuts and moving the cam till it locks up the drum, and then backing it of just enough to set the drum free, does a great job of making sure the shoes are very close. I am having trouble with a few of the cams. On two wheels I was not able to get the brake to lock up by adjusting. I must have worn cams on a few. I am not sure why I was able to get some shoes to grab the drum and lock it up and some shoes would not grab. on some shoes I could adjust one cam to lock the wheel, back it off a touch and move to the other cam. I could rotate the cam adjuster around and around with no effect. After adjusting all the brakes I could this way, I had a much better pedal. Much higher. However there are two shoes I could not adjust due to the cams not getting the shoe close enough to the drum. It will stop but, it will not lock the brakes on any wheel.

I am not familiar with driving an old CJ at all. I am wondering if standing on the brakes is the way it is. It does not stop like my 2015 GMC.

[pelago]

Well, worst brakes i ever had was a35ford pick up pure mechanical took two men and a boy to stop , mine are terrible, and the shoes are new and drums although not turned were basically new, jeep only had 1500 odometermiles on it when it got parked. I dunno, maybe take it to a brake shop and find a mechanic that is old school??? Got to do something kinda scary. Had egzact same exp with the cams, and they are 15.00 a wheel for two

[bmorgil]

I just "bit the bullet" and spent $180 on a hardware kit. Looks like we discovered the cams may not be reusable. I am going to put it in the air, and try again. I was joking with LarrBeard at the parade about "assured clear distance". I have a solid appreciation for starting to stop way early. There is no such thing as a panic stop in this thing. A gradual reduction in speed defines my brakes!

[pelago]

i just "bit the bullet" and spent $180 on a hardware kit. Looks like we discovered the cams may not be reusable. I am going to put it in the air, and try again. I was joking with larrbeard at the parade about "assured clear distance". A have a solid appreciation for starting to stop way early. There is no such thing as a panic stop in this thing. A gradual reduction in speed defines my brakes!

same here... Scary

[LarrBeard]

SURE GOT A LOT OF WAVES AND HORNS HONKING AS I DROVE AT 40 MILES A HOUR.......

Get used to it. You are going to be a celebrity now. The first time an 18-wheeler drives up next to you and leans into the horn will just about make you jump out of your skivvies!

You're getting to the point you can enjoy it now - it's paying off!

[pelago]

It came Magoo now has a license plate and a title
4714

[bmorgil]

Nice ID on the personal plate! Clearly shows what you have.

[pelago]

nice id on the personal plate! Clearly shows what you have.

and no one in the state of nc can get one this is the only one that will b made

[LarrBeard]

I saw this guy walking around the staging area at the Jeep Fest over in Toledo. Dawgs love Jeeps...

Jake's turn is coming.

[gmwillys]

Looks more like a Shetland pony than a dog. Dogs do love Jeeps!

[pelago]

i don't have the measurements, but i do know that the holes had inserts in them to prevent the body from collapsing. You can replicate the effect by over boring the hole through the stiffeners to the size of a section of pipe. The hardware was 3/8" if i remember correctly, so you need 3/8" i.d. Pipe. When you put your flat washer on, you won't see the mod. I'll pull the pictures up in the morning to see if we can come up with reference points to get things pert near close.

i have a spare gas can holder and need the dimensions and location of the holes for the carrier from left to right and bottom up the four holes

[gmwillys]

Here is what I could find.

https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=155333

[pelago]

BEUROCRACY AT ITS BEST
WHEN I WENT TO THE DMV EVERY SINGLE I WAS DOTTED ALL T'S WERE CROSSED, THEN I GET THIS, SHEEESH LOUISE EVERY SINGLE DMV PERSON REVIEWED ALL THE PAPERWORK AND ALL SAID IT WAS ALL IN ORDER ND VERY THOROUGH

THEN THIS COMES IN MAIL

ment History
Tracking Number:
6HXQ3HBSFS
Unit Name:
DMV (Vehicle Registration)
Sent By: IRA JONES
Date/Time: 8/13/2019 10:41:36 AM
Comment:
I PAID FOR A TITLE, I PAID NEARLY 500.00 TO HAVE A TITLE CREATED FOR A RESTORED MILITARY JEEP[, I HAD ALL THE CORRECT PAPERWORK. I SUBMITTED THIS AND PAID ALL THE FEES. STILL HAVE NOT RECEIVED THE TITLE, I CALLED AND WAITED TO TALK TO CUSTOMER SERVICE. THEY TRANSFERRED ME TO ANTIQUE TITLES , THEN ANTIQUE TITLES TRANSFERRED ME TO SPECIAL TITLES AND THEY TRANSFERRED ME BACK TO REGISTRATION
LicensePlateNumber: 52-M38A1
VehicleIdentificationNumber: MD17429
DriverLicenseNumber:
DateOfBirth:

Sent By: Contact Us Administrator
Date/Time: 8/15/2019 9:29:38 AM
Comment:
Hi Ira,

The title has not printed yet. A letter and the MVR-1 has been mailed to you for you to complete. The inspectors report has a different body style so the title application will need to be corrected and signed in front of a notary by you. The letter was issued on 08/14/2019, you should receive it in the mail within the next 7-10 days.

Thanks,
Lashonda

[pelago]

here is what i could find.

https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=155333

got t and saved it and now to drill holes (scary)

[pelago]

One more thing done.... Got to get the straps to hold it down now, backed up with spacers inside supports, found some tough nylon ones

4731

[gmwillys]

Let me see what I can come up with. I need to send you that shovel as well.

[LarrBeard]

One more thing done.... Got to get the straps to hold it down now, backed up with spacers inside supports, found some tough nylon ones

4731
And you even put a unit identifier on it so the guy who steals it has to remark it!

[gmwillys]

That happens to this day. Units paint their number on mission equipment, and by the time we see it, there is several numbers painted over. The more things change, the more they stay the same.

[pelago]

yeah all things tac marked but gas cans seemed to just sort of walk off by themselves if memory serves me right, nostalgia time i was in 3/5

[LarrBeard]

yeah all things tac marked but gas cans seemed to just sort of walk off by themselves if memory serves me right, nostalgia time i was in 3/5

When I hear hear a Marine or Soldier say "I was in the Third of the Fifth (3/5)", what does that mean?

To us who identify as "USS Shasta, AE-6" or "USS Newport News, CA-148" - we're in the dark as to "3/5"

[gmwillys]

Third battalion of the fifth Marines, the Darkhorses.

[pelago]

A division of marinesmade up of regiments, 1st marine division had a regiment within its ranks called "fifth marine regiment" a regiment broken into battalions battalions into companies i was a member of the 3rd battalion, fifth marine regiment,4742

[bmorgil]

Thanks for the lesson! So then each battalion has there own "Name" as in the Darkhorses? How was the name thought up? Do you have your own coat of arms, like an arm patch you would wear?

Sorry, this is good stuff. We might have to start a new category for the forum, "Willys live Military History". Solid resources for our history are hard to get. The military created our country.

[LarrBeard]

I'm starting to understand - maybe.

You were Third battalion of the Fifth Marine Regiment, attached to the First Marine Division.

So, would an entire Regiment be stationed at the same base (Camp LeJeune for example) or would its Battalions be located at different locations?

It's hard for us Sailors to get our heads around this complicated stuff. We just had to find a big grey ship with the right number painted on it and we were home.

[pelago]

USUALLY THE ENTIRE REGT LOCATED AT ONE PLACE. WITH EXCEPTIONS. SOMETIMES ON SHIPS AS PART OF A MARINE EXPEDITIONARY UNIT ONE REINFORCED BATTALION WOULD GE PART OF THE EXPEDITIONARY FORCE. SOMETIMES REFERRED TO AS "MEU" MARINE EXPEDITIONARY UNIT. SOMETIMES IT WOULD BE MEB AS IN MARINE EXPEDITIONARY BRIGADE A MUCH LARGER UNIT It all depends on the requirement of the mission. I have been part of many reinforced units, sometimes even reinforced regts. in Vietnam it was a Marine Amphibious Force which had many regiments many... then multiple divisions also later on. I was part of the 9th meb (ninth marine expeditionary brigade) that landed march of '65 as the first ground combat units in country. that was when i learned the bad guys used green tracers opposed to our red ones

[gmwillys]

If memory serves, the dark horse designation was a radio call sign used in Korea. It went away, then was reinstated during the war on terror.

[LarrBeard]

From a Wiki Source:

The 3rd Battalion's nickname "Darkhorse" sprang from the radio call sign it used during the Korean War, chosen by Colonel Robert Taplett, who as the Battalion Commander (CO) of that time had the call sign "Darkhorse Six". The name fell out of use until 2003; during the training to return to Iraq in 2004, the Battalion Commander, Lt. Col. P. J. Malay, requested use of the "Darkhorse" call sign as a homage to the battalion's bravery in Korea. The nickname stuck and the 3/5 Marines now use it on their unofficial patches.

One of Ambler Furry's Rules of Combat: "Tracers work both ways"

[pelago]

4761

my unit long ago

[bmorgil]

Very cool!

[pelago]

JUST THOUGHT OF SOMETHING WHILE WATCHING A SCIENCE FICTION MOVIE THAT INCLUDED THE DREADED BIG EMP....
We will still have vehicles that will start, and move no solid state ignition that wont work

[gmwillys]

That's why a multifuel Deuce and a half is going for stupid money on Ebay. The prepper community are stock piling these trucks to cruise around after an EMP wipes out everything electronic.

[LarrBeard]

Ira;

One of the things I did when I had to work for a living was to analyze effects of ionizing and non-ionizing radiation on airborne electronics as well as look at system configurations for EMP Susceptibility. (It sounds a lot more exotic than it really was ... mainly looking at part numbers and tables of numbers - eyestrain and boredom.)

One of my rules of thumb was, if a vehicle can run after having a GRC-106 100-watt HF SSB set operate near it, it will probably survive a far field EMP pulse. But - with all of the vehicle data and control buses in modern vehicles - after SHTF day, Old Jeeps will rule again!

Good to hear from you again. You've been quiet for a bit.

[pelago]

i love my old colllins S line4794



with this beam can reach out and touch especially with a henry 3ka

[LarrBeard]

One of these days we'll have to set up a sched on 75 or 60 to talk. (Can you move the S-Line to 60 or will we need to go to 40?)

[pelago]

have to look at crystal pak and antenna, NEED TO ADD NEVER BEEN ON 60 METERS 80, YEAH HAVE A GREAT DIPOLE CENTERED ON 7.268 NO SWR

[pelago]

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/windshield-wiper-motor-conversion-kit-in-24-volt-fits-50-68-m38-m38a1

AM LOOKING AT WINDSHIELD WIPERS, SEEMS THAT I CAN GET THE TWO VACUM MOTORS REBUILT HOWEVER THE GUYS THAT DO IT ALL INDICATE THAT IF THERE IS MUCH PITTING ON THE ACTUAL ROD THAT THE WIPERS ATTACH TO THAT IT MIGHT NOT BE SATISFACTORY. AND THE COST IS PRETTY HIGH?? LIKE TO HAVE WIPERS,,, WOULD NEED TWO OF THESE GUYS, COMMENTS??

SPARE TIRE BRACKET, KAISER PRETTY HIGH ON THIS? HAVE SEEN SEVERAL ON EBAY MUCH MORE REALISTIC AND HAVE SEEN CABLE FOR SPEEDOMETER ALSO ON EBAY AND MUCH CHEAPER....

JEEP PARTS GAVE ME A QUOTE FOR CANVAS, THE WHOLE SHOOTING MATCH TOP, SIDES, DOORS BOWS ALL OF IT FOR LITTLE LESS THAT 1500.00 NOT BAD AT ALL
COMMENTS ON THE LIST??

A LITTLE SIDEBAR OF FIFTH MARINES... PELILEU, BATTLE, THE POINT WHERE THEY HAD A HELL OF A TIME, COMPANY SHOT TO HELL AND THEY TOOK IT. AND HELD IT AND HAD TO USE CAPTURED JAP MACHINE GUNS TO HOLD IT, THEY WERE RUNNING OUT OF AMMO. PULLER HAD GONE TO THE NAVY TO HAVE THE ENTIRE AREA HIT WITH NAVAL GUNFIRE AND THE LEAD NAVY GUY SAID NO...... WHAT A FOOLISH MOVE BY THE NAVY, THAT PLACE COST OVER 200 MARINES. ONE OF THEM USED HIS KBAR, AND LEFT IT STUCK IN SAND, HE WENT BACK FIFTY YEARS LATER AND FOUND IT... AND FROM RESEARCH I DID IT SEEMS THAT THE MARINES DID NOT THINK SO MUCH OF CHESTY PULLER. A LOT OF CONTROVERSY ON HIS ACTIONS. GENERALY SPEAKING CHESTY WAS GOD TO THE MARINES BUT AFTER READING THIS I DONT KNOW, NEVER MET HIM OR SERVED UNDER HIM