well, the darn thing is out

[pelago]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Willys-M38-M38A1-673380K-Military-Rifle-Rack-Bracket-Set-G740-G758-G503/323550446627?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4b551c0423:g:nOcAAOSw76lb7LUl&enc=AQAEAAAB4BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qXTkWpa%2F6Zcld fAKVfJ%2BiKNLYwFtcUMEYYUZDEOW4SjCWSO34SoGII1U%2F8m 7BxNmXQ8nxKCRzscZ%2Fh%2FoddpfAEtF7G8JKvbJNgZgUrj0P s70g28FGlFXkMKsNsJdZA072FB%2BWtZWhS0Tb%2By5HIU78eB Sql9IbdAy4t4GjcMnVkBRs96z%2BVweYrG%2F1Rq4HI%2B4xDZ AIzQNioHKA8WD6gEC%2BsAIZVnC4SX6UTDCdyIzrtDgNkU7S0O cuBrVYglX%2BRnjSwZr0uAqd8tuxoJBNDTDnYrzODuTMGZbigd gtOratjjlDlbyfT8BB%2BxmRTrr%2FAWxYQfCzjToARrP6kVSN siceKv%2B6Ast%2BYlM%2BhjvJM56bFzA63SeRXeNGz8spkeFg KLo6Ou%2B307exAQgRKCrat5sbPjHS3m0jx77KduoQeJBdrwkE COjLUmn4OCS7p%2B9PTPScEd%2B5Zwto%2FSw7XE%2BfYHucN6 fcItEaXJJFbtplkNvE%2Ft%2F7yg%2BuSgvCOwhrHfT2BaM5TG 2%2FkkhJCNIWjsX7MH3pJcDM4ZH9wrzRv4Dxj%2BPiCW8v%2F3 V4YETRCuJGmdhcy7uc9TR6se4oeV3FypRKXt5ahQhPXO1a8sFs 3z1kHAvc7d4A%3D%3D&checksum=3235504466278aeb7f1e0fa641449ed23f1921b3e 4bf

WHERE DO THESE GO??

I can remember the jeeps with fifth marines and fifth comm battalion "RADIO RELAY AND CONSTRUCTION COMPANY" HOWS THAT FOR A COMPANY NAME.. ENGINEERS AND COMM IN SAME COMPANY??? and they all had axes on drivers side and shovels under hood, but where does the axe go drill wise? and the center line for the spare timre mount, have to drill holes again. got the gas tank holder on okay and have "sleeves" in the bolts where it goes thru the bracket inside so it wont compress the darn thing, i actually found hard nylon spacers that the bolt fit perfectly inside and they fit like a glove

[LarrBeard]

[QUOTE=pelago;8972]https://www.kaiserwillys.com/windshield-wiper-motor-conversion-kit-in-24-volt-fits-50-68-m38-m38a1

AM LOOKING AT WINDSHIELD WIPERS, SEEMS THAT I CAN GET THE TWO VACUM MOTORS REBUILT HOWEVER THE GUYS THAT DO IT ALL INDICATE THAT IF THERE IS MUCH PITTING ON THE ACTUAL ROD THAT THE WIPERS ATTACH TO THAT IT MIGHT NOT BE SATISFACTORY. AND THE COST IS PRETTY HIGH?? LIKE TO HAVE WIPERS,,, WOULD NEED TWO OF THESE GUYS, COMMENTS??

When I did the '48 truck, I had the vacuum wipers overhauled. I am still thinking about changing over to a 6-volt electric wiper. Vacuum wipers (to coin a phrase) suck. We're spoiled by electric wipers that go thunk-thunk at the same rate regardless of whether you're accelerating or decelerating. The vacuum boost on the fuel pump helps, but it isn't what we're used to.

And - it looks like you can get TWO kits for what it cost me to get ONE vacuum motor rebuilt. There will be some installation issues I am sure, but if you feel like making the conversion - go for it.

I knew you were going to do something with wipers, so at the Jeep Fest some guy had his windshield down and I took a quick picture of his wiper setup.

[LarrBeard]

WHERE DO THESE GO??

If you click on the little arrow on the right side of the pictures, the last two pictures in the listing show those brackets mounted somewhere on the dash.

[LarrBeard]

have to look at crystal pak and antenna, NEED TO ADD NEVER BEEN ON 60 METERS 80, YEAH HAVE A GREAT DIPOLE CENTERED ON 7.268 NO SWR

We'll figure out something on 40

[pelago]

EVEN mm LIKED THE M38A1

4798

[gmwillys]

The axe is mounted to the top of the right fender well.

http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album471&id=M38A1_Axe_1_28_16

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=6434

[bmorgil]

EVEN mm LIKED THE M38A1

4798

She had exquisite taste!

[pelago]

hMMMM all of ours had the axe on the side, maybe cuz they were comm vehicles??

[gmwillys]

Very possible. The comms did occupied the same spot as the axe. You had talked of mounting radios at one point, so go with your memory and mount the axe to the side.

[pelago]

Damn. Un anticipated issue
ordered 8 eccentrics to adjust all brake shoes? When i got them i looked and they just did not seem right, then i put them on and damn things just do not even come close to hitting the brake shoes??? Further investigation found that the offset on the new ones is just not the same
damn damn damn 8.00 each bought 8

48154814

COPY OF EMAIL SENT
THESE ARE FOR THE M38A1 THAT I PURCHASED, 8 OF THEMN TO REPLACE ALL ON ALL FOUR WHEELS.
THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG HERE, THE NEW ONES JUST DO NOT ADJUST, THEY WILL NOT EVEN COME INTO CONTACT WITH THE BRAKE SHOE
IF YOU LOOK AT THE PHOTO I SENT THE DARK ONE IS OFF THE ORIGINAL M38A1 AND THE SHINEY ONE IS THE NEW ONE, THEY ARE NOT EVEN CLOSE.
THEY SIMPLY DO NOT ADJUST THE SHOE. THE OFFSET ON THE NEW ONES IS JUST NOT THE SAME AND THE DIFFERENCE IS PRETTY LARGE
I ALSO SENT A PHOTO OF TWO OF THEM SIDE BY SIDE. YOU CAN CLEARLY SEE THAT THE NEW ONES JUST ARE NOT OFF CENTER AND JUST SIMPLY DO NOT EVEN COME INTO CONTACT WITH THE BRAKE SHOE, CONSEQUENTLY ONE SIMPLY CAN NOT ADJUST THE SHOE, ALSO INCLUDED A PICTURE OF RIGHT REAR WHEEL WITH THEM INSTALLED.
SINCE THIS IS FOR BRAKES THIS PRETTY SERIOUS AND COULD EVEN LEAD TO A LAWSUIT??
PLEASE ADVISE

[gmwillys]

The A1 had 11" brakes, to where the earlier heeps had 9" brakes. With that being said, I would have to look up to see if there is a different part number for the adjusters.

Hopefully the hurricane will turn hard right before coming up your way.

[bmorgil]

The "new" cam hardly has any offset. I'll bet gmwillys is right. Looks like its for a bigger brake.

I did come up with a way to adjust my brakes that worked really well. I found that the the lower adjuster moves the shoe up and down. The upper adjuster moves the shoe in and out. If you don't start at the top, the shoe wont set in the drum quite right. Sometimes the lower adjuster will not seem to bring the shoe in contact with the drum. If you start at the top then move to the bottom then back to the top a few times, the shoe settles right in. I was able to get mine just right. My brother also made me a 1/4 " 3/16" custom wrench to turn the adjusters, and a custom wrench for the front lower lock nuts, hiding behind the lower king pin bearing.

I started at the top shoe adjuster. I rotated it until the brake grabbed the wheel slightly. I then went to the bottom and turned it until the wheel came loose. Then back to the top till it dragged the wheel. Then back to the bottom till it came loose... a few times. After a few adjustment rotations, the lower adjuster will no longer "free" the wheel. At that time I go back to the top and back it off just enough to clear.

If your brake drums have a slot for a feeler gauge, this is all done when you position the lower shoe .002" from the drum. I have new drums and consequently, no slots for the gauge. The method I used however really worked great. I can slide the wheels in the stones. I no longer carry an anchor to throw out.

[pelago]

Upper and lower adjuster?? Where are they? Two photos, one of drivers side rear and the other passengers side, drivers side has holes where the cam adj goes??
48174818

[bmorgil]

The adjusters are the cams. I was just calling the cams adjusters. The upper cam is the one you have the vice grip on. The lower is the bronze cam that is inserted in the bottom of the shoe.

In the CJ service manual, they refer to the bottom cams/pins as the "Anchor pins". The lowers move the shoe up and down. The uppers move the shoe in and out. I had to work back and forth a few times before the shoe settled in. Then it was easy to get the feel. If you start with the bottom or anchor pin, it may not do anything. Mine just spun around and did nothing until, I adjusted the top first. Then moving the bottom would free up the wheel. Going back to the top I could turn the cam some more and stop the wheel, and lock it there. I would then go back and turn the lower and the wheel would free up. Back to the top and lock it down again. Eventually I got to the point where I could no longer free up the wheel with the lower. At that point all worked great. Hopefully I am making sense of what I did. I was able to get a good brake this way.

[pelago]

there is nothing like that in the service manual for the m38a1????

[bmorgil]

I took a couple of pictures from the Service Manual for Universal Jeep Vehicles. The service manual specifically talks about the CJ2A and CJ3A Jeeps using adjustble "Anchor Pins". I think the M38 does not have the lower adjustable "Anchor Pins". I think you are supposed to have a brake set up similar to the CJ-3B. In that case you only have the eccentrics.

Here is a discussion from the G503 forum about the same thing. https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=131184

It seems you need to get the shoe in the middle with the adjustable bottom anchor pin. I think you have the CJ-3B "Cam Style" without adjustable Anchor Pins, the only adjustment is the eccentrics. I have attached a picture from the service manual on that style also.

From your pictures it seems you have the wrong or, improperly manufactured eccentrics.

[gmwillys]

See if this helps any;

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?130883-Brake-shoe-adjustment-driving-me-crazy
https://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com/2017/10/08/working-on-brakes-again/

The correct eccentric adjuster is like this;

https://www.vintagejeeps.com/p-815-brake-shoe-eccentric-805592.aspx

[pelago]

the wrong or, improperly manufactured eccentrics.

YES. THE CAM WILL NOT EVEN TOUCH THE BRAKE SHOES, AND THERE IS NO BOTTOM ADJUST

4821

THAT PHOTO SHOWS THE ADJUSTERS OR ECCENTRICKS AT THE MAX ABILITY, THEY JUST DON HAVE ENOUGH LOBE TO EVEN TOUCH THE SHOES. EVERYTHING IS NEW

[gmwillys]

The posting by vintage Jeeps will have enough offset on the eccentrics.

[pelago]

Looked at that and yes they looked that way. What i did was remove the eccentrics (new) and took old ones and filed the top so that a 6mm wrench fits on it good, and re installed them and used a 9/16 wrench to unlock and was able to adjust. The eccentrics engage the shoes now. Problem seemed to be that the adjust end was so boogered up by vice grips that a wrench just did not fie, now a 6mm fits on all the old eccentrics and the cam lobe is 3/16 more than the new ones



4822

[gmwillys]

The original ones didn't look too bad at all. Vice grips will booger up the works, but you did well in getting it all back in shape.

[pelago]

this is lovely4823

[bmorgil]

Your going to get wet! Hunker down and, good luck. We are praying for you!

Bob

[LarrBeard]

I looked at the Jacksonville NC weather last night and it looked like you were going to get sideswiped.

It's time to rig the generator, chain up the gas cans, tie down the loose stuff and get a nice comfy blanket for Jake to curl up in.

[pelago]

keeping busy
this is the fourth and final attempt at gasket for carb over four hours, but this one should work, can not adjust anything with more gas on the outside than inside



4824

AND I BELIEVE I NEED #24 LEAKING SOMEWHAT
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/diagram/m38a1-diagrams/axle-diagrams-willys-m38a1/dana-41-44-53-23-27-rear-axle/dana-41-44-53-23-27-rear-axle

[pelago]

generator staged, fired it up and all is good. 9kw runs mos of house, i cut back but have tv, fridge, lights and fans. 30 gallons of gas. Since i did all that maybe the damn thing will move east?? You know the weather guessers had this sob
nailing florida, they had it going in. when i saw that i said "who in the hell do they think they are kidding. THEY CAN NOT TELL WHERE THIS THING GOES, ONLY TRUST THEM WITH A 36HR FORECAST, IN REALITY THEY HAVE NO IDEA WHERE THESE THINGS WILL GO. THESE STORMS ARE EVEN LESS PREDICTABLE THAN WOMEN...... Had to get that gasket done so i could move magoo, it was blocking the generator, so put the gasket in and no leaks, carb seemed okay, drove it around the block a few times then came back and parked it in drive and moved generator (luckily it has wheels) Outer bands have come thru lots of lightening disconnected all ham gear and it sits idle done want to lose the ICOM 706, still have antenna in the air but am moving it as wind shifts to look into the wind, five pretty large elements 85 foot in air, keep adjusting it to lookinto the wind. Jake still being Jake 16months old now and still very very much a puppy. just thinking of all the yard crap will have to clean up. but actually not so much worried about roof all new steel... good test for it, and it is guaranteed for life. so we shall see

[bmorgil]

HaHa! "Less predictable than women". I predict an "*** Kicking" from the females to follow! Isn't Dorian a girls name?

My Dad had a HAM 2 meter FM and an AM array set up with a 30 foot tower. He took a hit that fried a lot of stuff. Like his whole radio room! He had a BIG ground on the tower. It disintegrated it.

On the "leaker", use a FEL-PRO RDS6629. Any Dana 44 gasket. They are all the same. I have always had good success with the Fel-Pro. They are $2 at Rock Auto. They are having a closeout. I am not sure how many are left. These are the best gaskets I have found for the 44.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/fel-pro,RDS6629,differential+gasket,13411

[pelago]

My weather station on tower (accurate) highest gust so far 72knots just took five inches of water out of my pool in prep for lots of rain

LATE ENTRY 9 41 AM JUST HAD A GUST TO 75 LOTS OF RAIN, SINE TORNADO ACTIVITY IN AREA

[pelago]

ALSO WHILE BROWSING FOUND THIS

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=SLAVE+CABLE+M38A1&_sacat=0

LEFT TO DO ON THIS PORTION OF RESTORATION
PASSENGER SEAT
PASSENGER SEAT CUSHIONS
SPARE TIRE MOUNT
SPEEDOMETER CABLE
FOUND A FEW PESKY LEAKS, CAN FIX THOSE
WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTORS AND BLADES (ELECTRIC)
BUMPERETTES (TWO OF THEM)
MOUNT AXE AND SHOVEL
WILL HAVE FRONT END ALIGHNMENT CHECKED, BUT FELL I GOT IT OKAY, CAN LET GO OF WHEEL AND IT TRACKS STRAIGHT AND NO WOBBLE AT ALL ON NEW FRONT TIRES
I JUST DO NOT SEEM TO HAVE THE SKILLS TO ADJUST BRAKES, WHEN I THINK I GOT IT I STILL JUST DO NOT HAVE A PANIC STOP, I ADJ AND WHEN I THINK IT IS TOUCHING I LOCK IT, BUT THINK THAT IT NEEDS MORE. THIS IS ONE THING I HAVE NEVER EVER DONE AND THINK IT MIGHT BE WORTH THE TIME AND MONEY TO TAKE IT SOMEWHERE, LUCKILY THERE IS A GUY HERE THAT HAS RESTORED MANY MANY MANY OLDER CARS FROM MODEL "A'S' TO 50'S CARS AND TRUCKS, HE OWNS "CLIFFS AUTO REPAIR RIGHT DOWN THE ROAD" HE SAID SURE BRING IT IN

ALL GAUGES WORK, TEMP GAUGE SHOWS 170 DEGREES AFTER TWO HOURS OF DRIVING, OIL PRESSURE GOES TO 35LBS ONCE OIL AND ENGINE WARMED P, FUEL GAUGE SHOWS CORRECT FUEL LEVEL, BATTERY CONDITION SHOWS CORRECT VOLTAGE CONFIRMED BY SIMPSON 260 METER. NO SPEEDOMETER CABLE YET (SPEEDOMETER, I LIKE THAT)
HAVE FOUR NEW TIRES AND ONE USED ONE FOR SPARE WITH 3 NEW RIMS

[LarrBeard]

[QUOTE=pelago;9066]ALSO WHILE BROWSING FOUND THIS

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=SLAVE+CABLE+M38A1&_sacat=0

You probably won't need a slave cable to start or be started, but it would look good in the hole for the receptacle. What the heck - go for it.

It sounds like you're getting there - and having a professional adjust the brakes is a good idea. We joke about "If the brakes don't stop you, something will ...", but it's really not a joke. If you can't stop it reliably, it shouldn't start in the first place.

Your list of things to finish sounds like the list most of us have - there is always just one more little thing I need to get done to make it right.

I hope you don't have too much clean up to do once the wind dies down.

[pelago]

On generator power 28 hours now, temp ext to computer, sme trees down. no roof damage, not much damage really. mostly clean up but sure howled and shrieked at 2am

[LarrBeard]

On generator power 28 hours now, temp ext to computer, sme trees down. no roof damage, not much damage really. mostly clean up but sure howled and shrieked at 2am

How did Jake do? This was his initiation.

[pelago]

How did Jake do? This was his initiation.


He was not crazy about it, and stayed real real close all the time, in fact would not let me out of his sight

[5JeepsAz]

I'm new so hoping it is okay to share in this epic. First, thank you all who served. I did not, but I do know my life, my time, the smalls wonders of freedom, are possible because of sacrifices made by our soldiers and unknowable by me, grateful though I try to be. Thank you. Second, what an effort on Magoo!!! Finish, finish, finish! Third, I was out today and got talked at by a guy for 15 minutes who told me about a Jeep junkyard a miles away. Yep. Found it! Of course it was closed, but it made the day. I can't believe the man upstairs made a place called a Jeep junkyard. Awesome.

[bmorgil]

5JeepsAz, post pictures of the "Jeep Junkyard"! Be careful, you could be put in the retrieve and send department.

I bet it's a gold mine. Arizona Jeep Junkyard. I restored a 1977 Chevy truck from AZ. It was the finest "core" I have ever seen.

[pelago]

two issues that are driving me nuts
brake adjustment, this set up has basically a push rod that is adjustable, from master lever to the master cylinder, and adjustable. however when i adjust it to the correct (close anyway, manual calls for 1/2" clearance on pedal to engage the cylinder) i have adjusted it as far in as i can get and that actually seperates the boltS??? this is not acceptable got to be able to stop this thing. do i invest 40 bucks on a new one??? going to see if i can get it out without tearing out the whole pedal assembly???
4828

the second item is a oil leak from the main line output to the filter, i used a line from kaiser willys that is obviously made in china or somewhere else? it uses npt threads but adj is metric. I have already replaced under warranty the oil filter drain line. they seem to leak at the connection that swivels, and is supposed to not leak. this is a royal pain in the *** to get out.. but since it is on the journal it has at start up 40+ psi of oil pressure and when oil warms up it just leaks like hell
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/category/engine/oil-hoses-filters-parts/oil-filter-inlet-hose-30-fits-50-66-cj-3b-5-m38a1

4829

what does one think when you pay good money for two lines and both leak, has to be common denominator manufacturer

[pelago]

"grateful though I try to be." thanks bro, 28 years a Marine

[gmwillys]

For a while, my back yard looked like a Heep graveyard. Four to build one tends to make piles of serviceable parts, and bigger piles of scrap.

When buying Willys parts, buy American made parts when you can. I've used the brake line kit made over seas, and had lots of fun. Had to use conical seals to get the lines to quit dripping at the joints. Willys America should have a supply of in states made parts.

Don't spend the money on a brake master adjuster rod. Figure out exactly how much you are lacking, and weld on a piece of round stock. $40 is a bit much if your adjuster will adjust, but just a bit short.

[pelago]

HAVE IDENTIFIED PRECISELY SOURCE OF OIL LEAK AND IT COULD HAVE BEEN DISASTROUS THINK WHAT COULD HAVE HAPPENED DRIVING AT 40MPH WHEN THIS PIECE OF CHINESESHIT CRAPPED OUT

4830

4831

in the second photo can see the sealed end that was supposed to be crimped on for a good seal..........IT FREAKIN AINT ANY KIND OF A SEAL, HOPE THE CHINESE FILLED ALL THEIR CRAPPY NAVY WITH THIS KIND OF CRAP

AGAIN COMMON DENOMINATOR PIECE OF DIPSHIT CHINESE CRAP, WILL SEE IF I CAN MAYBE GET ONE LOCALLY


MASTER BRAKE ADJUST I LIKE THIS IDEA " Figure out exactly how much you are lacking, and weld on a piece of round stock. "

[gmwillys]

Napa should be able to set you up with a quality replacement. Check out any local heavy equipment shops or dealers. They should have the fittings and hose to make you new quality pieces that will last a lifetime.

[5JeepsAz]

http://www.amc4x4.com/home.html

Happy to help out. Mine drove beautifully tonight. Except the part where it cut out for no reason in lane two of a boulevard. I pulled into one of those adjacent ways, hit second (clunky on a column), popped the clutch and off she went like nothing.

[bmorgil]

[QUOTE=pelago;9097]HAVE IDENTIFIED PRECISELY SOURCE OF OIL LEAK AND IT COULD HAVE BEEN DISASTROUS....

Chasing an oil drip on mine. I thought it was the timing cover. Turns out to be the same problem as yours. Different part number on the hose for my 3A than yours. Same problem however. Leaking no matter what I do to it. It runs down the cover and travels all over. A real pain in the A@#.

[pelago]

yupper " A real pain in the A@#. " going to try (key word is try) to see if i can get one locally am thru with chineseshit...............
one thing i miss about living in a large city, Like where i grew up Chicago.. and that is finding a real machine shop or fabricator?? there were three of them listed on the internet, called all three, one said number not valid check your number?? the other two said "they dont do stuff like that" my question to them was "i need to extend a piece for my jeep and basically it is a 3/8" diameter push rod that i need to make a inch longer, this is nothing more than a round piece of steel about 3/8 in diameter......................Oh we dont do stuff like that, i asked do you weld? they said NO, what in the hell kind of machine shop is this

[bmorgil]

"what in the hell kind of machine shop is this "

Oh man... where have all the "Craftsman" gone? Makes me wish I would have paid a lot more attention to my Dad when he was teaching me how to run a Lathe. Or my buddies Dad who was teaching us how to weld. Or my Neighbor who was teaching me how to make brick mortar. Or my first good boss that was teaching me how to make money.

Well, we have each other! Make a rough sketch on a napkin. There are a few guys who will fab what ever you need out on the WWW. I bought my jeep from a guy who has his own shop in his garage, equipped with a 5 axis CNC. He will make almost anything. These guy's are around on the WWW, you just have to find them.

[gmwillys]

Cut the head of a shanked 3/8" bolt the length you need, and weld it on the end of your existing rod. Don't you still have the MIG welder that you used to do the body work? Put the two halves in the vise with some copper on the jaws, and tack away. Turn the heat up to ensure you have good penetration, and turn the wire speed down a touch, and you'll do fine. The vise will help hold everything straight.

[pelago]

one issue solved, the hose from journal to filter
Went to many places many and wound up about 15miles east of here to a hose specialty shop, and this man inspected what i have and lo and behold the weak end that failed was not even crimped..... he tried to crimp it and it still pulled out, so he made a new one tough as nails 20 bucks

[gmwillys]

That will do just fine. $20 is a small price to pay for a good oil line.

[pelago]

That will do just fine. $20 is a small price to pay for a good oil line.
agreed, and no oil pouring out and seizing engine up... hate to think of it coming all the way apart while driving, now to dig into the darned master cylinder push rod, got to remove it ugh and figure it all out

[pelago]

anyone got some dimensions for the push rod for master cylinder m38a1, mine from center of eye to end is 7"

[bmorgil]

The same push rod fits about everything in CJ or M Jeep trim. The same one fits 48-66 CJ-2A, 3A, 3B, 5, 6, M38, M38A1. If anyone has any push rod out of any Jeep CJ or M model it should be the same length.

[pelago]

BRAKES, HERE IS WHERE I AM AT
Prefacing this with the statement that being able to stop is a good thing, Magoo will stop.....eventually
I removed the push rod, I also confirmed that the pedal system is in correctly, I measured the free play that i have before the master cylinder engages and it is 2 1/4" THE MANUAL INDICATES ADJUST THE PUSH ROD TO HAVE 1/2" FREE TRAVEL.... THE BEST I CAN ADJ IS TO LENGTHEN IT AND GAIN MAYBE 1/2" OF TRAVEL, AND YES IT MADE A DIFFERENCE, NOT MUCH BUT IT DID MAKE IT STOP A LITTLE BETTER BUT STILL VERY VERY BAD AND DANGEROUS

MEASURED THE PUSH ROD AT ITS SHORTEST AND IT IS 7"

GOT TO HAVE MORE, SO I TOOK THE PUSH ROD TO A LOCAL GARAGE THAT WAS RECOMMENDED AND I WAS TOLD HE WILL WELD SMALL JOBS. WHEN I GOT THERE I SHOWED HIM WHAT I HAD AND EXPLAINED THE PROBLEM AND EXPLAINED MY GOAL AND HE SAID "WHAT JEEP ARE YOU RESTORING A M151?" I SAID "NO A M38A1" HE LOOKED AT ME AND SAID "DAMN I USED TO DRIVE ONE OF THOSE"
So a welding we did, i had prepared a short piece of steel to add to the end of the push rod, but it was a bit thicker in diameter, he said wait a minute and went into back of his shop and came back in ten minutes with a short piece of steel that was same diameter. he then promptly welded it together and did a great job, few minutes on a grinder and the weld was no longer portruding outside the diameter of the repaired and longer push rod.
I then said this is great and how much do i owe you and he looked at me and said "semper fi bro, no charge just bring the jeep around when you are driving it" WOW

4838


I went to Kaiser catalog and looked up the push rod, and there were some questions and answers as part of the web page and lo and behold there were comments about the push rod not being long enough..
now my brake system is all new, lines, wheel cylinders, shoes and drums in good shape, all new stuff. and i tested the system by my son pushing the pedal and watching the shoes move, and only one moved and it took another pump to get the other shoe to move on all four wheels. What is the common denominator to this... THE MASTER CYLINDER... I got out the old one that was shot and the walls for the cylinders rusty as hell. but the pump was at the top, stuck the push rod in and it only when in a little before it engaged the frozen cylinder, then i stuck the push rod in the new master and damn it went in a whole lot (a bunch) deeper???
something aint right
went back to the page in catalog and looked again and the push rod for the cj2 is CONSIDERABLY LONGER but in construction and layout it is the same... hmm hmm I wonder

called kaiser and they had no idea, but mike said it has to be something in the set up of the vehicle and he said that they had sold 843 master cylinders, i then told him about the comments on thepage about the push rod not being long enough? he said now he has no idea what the issue is or how to correct it, told him i had to lengthen the push rod somewhat and see what happends. he agreed

now here is the plan
since the pedal at rest is engaged by the return spring i am going to put the lengthened push rod in and measure what has to be removed to enable the push rod to just touch the cylinder piston and then do it again and then shorten the re done push rod to what the master needs. I have the push rod adjusted to its shortest length and will just see what happens

[bmorgil]

It sounds like the piston in the Master Cylinder is relieved much deeper at the push rod touch point on the new vs the old. Man those brakes are beating on you! What else are you going to find?

It sounds like you have it now. After finally getting mine adjusted well, my 3A stops OK. It will lock up the tires in the stones. I imagine Schwarzenegger could get it to screech the tires on pavement. They are most definitely not disc's! For a 2000lb Jeep, with a sub sonic top speed, it is not to bad. I love the nostalgia of the original brakes.

[gmwillys]

On the best day, when new, you'd be hard pressed to lock a wheel completely down on hard tack, in an early CJ with 9" brakes. The 11" on the A1 and newer were an improvement, but the vehicle weight went up as well, canceling out the upgrade.
The problem with foreign made parts is that they are not exactly like the original. This is to prevent being sued over patents and licensing fees. Inferior products, more or less. It isn't Kaiser Willys point to sell junk, but to be competitive with the rest of the Heep resto crowd. Omix has flooded the market with their products, and the typical tight wad like myself will buy the bargain piece... That is until you find out exactly what you get. A Wagner master cylinder is between $50 to$60, where a Crown is $30 and change. You get what you pay for. Spend more now to do it once, or buy junk and replace it again in a few years.

[pelago]

well, got better brakes now, actually shortened the one i had made longer it is only about 1/2" longer than it was but working a hell of a lot better,. and once it was in i lengthened it, and got the free play down to a inch. and i still have to adjust the individual wheels, my skills at that are lacking. but i know a guy that has the skills and he said be glad to do it...

leak at the rear end stopped?? maybe had too much juice in it?? could be

but will have to pull the oil pump, had to do this wtice before and tried to re use gasket, which (i know) you cant do that

HOWEVER MY ELDEST SON AND I DROVE AROUND FOR A HOUR AND WENT TO BURGER KING AND GOT HONKED AT, TWICE BY GOOD LOOKING WOMEN IN CONVERTABLES

[LarrBeard]

[QUOTE leak at the rear end stopped?? maybe had too much juice in it?? could be

That is a definite possibility. If I fill my differential to spec (level ground, fill untill it drips out the fill plug) it will proceed to drip and throw out through vent until it is about two knuckles on my pinky down from where started. It settles there and I'm tired of fighting with it, so it won.

HOWEVER MY ELDEST SON AND I DROVE AROUND FOR A HOUR AND WENT TO BURGER KING AND GOT HONKED AT, TWICE BY GOOD LOOKING WOMEN IN CONVERTABLES[/QUOTE]

Get used to it - Old Jeeps are Chick Magnets and people love old Jeeps.

Now, when you add a good looking dog - the girls really flock around!

[pelago]

"Now, when you add a good looking dog - the girls really flock around! " look out world here comes the jakester fastest tongue in the west

[gmwillys]

I believe I'll leave that last statement alone....

[pelago]

LEAN/RICH MIX
do not have the finesse that is needed to adj this, think i am running too rich

[bmorgil]

Hook up your tach. Warm it up good. Set the idle about 700. Turn the adjusting screw in until the RPM's begin to drop. Turn it back out 1 turn. Turn the idle back down to 600 or 650 depending on your preference for idle. (I like 650 book says 600) This should work great for you. If you keep turning out past one turn, at some point the RPM's might/should start to fall off again. That would be the much too rich point.

[bmorgil]

I believe I'll leave that last statement alone....

Yes, wise gmwillys, the Forum might tell us to edit and get the flock out of here.

[pelago]

Have improved the brakes greatly, but still neeed someone to finish it by adj eccntrics individually

for the idle and mixture dont have a tach have to do it all by ear and being 90 percent deaf does not help

[bmorgil]

Set the idle where you like it by ear or feel. Turn the idle mixture screw in until it starts to shake a little. It will misfire as it gets too lean. Turn the screw back out about a turn and a half. That should do it by "feel". I have had to do a few carbs by feel. As I am sure gmwillys will attest, there is nothing like adjusting your carb, when there are many open exhaust motors revving all around you!

My hearing, sight, stamina etc. is definitely not what it used to be! I hope your service didn't cost you sir.

[pelago]

unfortunately it did,
My hearing, sight, stamina etc. is definitely not what it used to be! I hope your service didn't cost you

cant hear for a damn, and got more holes in me than was born with, but wth still kicking and trying, thanks

[LarrBeard]

unfortunately it did,
My hearing, sight, stamina etc. is definitely not what it used to be! I hope your service didn't cost you

cant hear for a damn, and got more holes in me than was born with, but wth still kicking and trying, thanks

I learned more book learning about Carter YF carburetors than I wanted to trying to get the '48 running. The YS on the M38A1 is in the same family and there are some lessons that might carry over from the YF to the YS. But - I still don't know doodle about carburetors... .

First of all - Old Jeeps Stink.

We've gotten used to catalytic converted low emission engines that don't have any smell. (One story I read a bit back was that a woman tried to kill herself by sitting in the garage with the car running and that particular vehicle was so low emission she got tired of sitting after a while and changed her mind without finishing off the deed!). A Jeep will smell when its running. Don't let a stink make you think its too rich.

The best way to see if its running too rich is to take it out for a drive for a while and when you get back, immediately shut it off (don't let it idle) and pull a plug or two. If you get the smoky black residue on the plug, the run mixture is too rich. If you are clean and grey, the run mixture is OK.

The screw adjustment on the throat of the YS and YF set the idle mixture. The run mixture is set by the internal jets and metering rods. As I read across the various internet places, there are all kinds of horror stories about folks who have used junk rebuild kits and gotten wrong metering rods and jets mixed into Carter YS carbs.

Set your idle mixture and idle, then check the run mixture. Don't confuse stink for too rich.

Then, this advice may stink too .... .

[pelago]

Getting there...
Need passenger seat, speedometer cable, spare tire mount, few gaskets (darned oil pump) (darned exh manifold)

48454846484748484844

[pelago]

More done stuff

48494850485148524853

[gmwillys]

Setting by ear is my favorite means. Bmorgil is correct, it is fun adjusting carbs while everyone around you is doing the same with open headers. I had an old beat up Holley 500 that I used on all the Mopar small and big block plants. The big blocks had a set of shorty zoomies that dumped upward with no collectors. You could watch each cylinder for proper burn. At WOT under load, you would get just a little blue flame at the tip of each pipe. The carb could be tuned for either engine by fattening the air fuel, your leaning out for the small blocks.

A tack will not directly hook to the distributor. There is a government issued adapter kit has everything that is needed. They are out there on the market, but tend to be expensive.

You have done a great job on your A1. Your to do list is getting to be pretty short.

[LarrBeard]

That engine bay is great! It looks like 1953 all over again!

[bmorgil]

A step back in time!

[pelago]

Drove it for two full hours yesterday, even drove on the Camp Lejeune, young marines at first were very confused when they saw it, never probably seen one since the HUMV now present and one even asked "is this tactical?"
Just smiled and showed ID card and license plate and they waved me thru. Got tons of whoops and hollers and drove to a jeep dealer and they all wanted photos

[LarrBeard]

Ira:

Wow. I am as close to speechless as I have been in a long time. I am sure that all of the guys who have watched this Jeep come back to life are as thrilled as I am.

There is no way I can express how tickled I am to hear your story about how the young Marines reacted to the Jeep. They appreciate not just the vehicle, but the guy who made it happen.

Seriously, get used to being acknowledged as you drive around town.. WHOOPS, HOLLERS, HONKS, WAVES, HIGH FIVES, THUMBS UP, these are your rewards for all the work you put into Magoo. It is more than just an OD vehicle, it stands for ideas and principals that a lot of people don't understand - but those people whooping, hollering, honking and waving understand and they are acknowledging both of you - and ideas that are often forgotten today.

Congratulations, and thank you for letting us be a part of this with you!

From a Sailor - SEMPER FI!

Now, just finish it off ...

[pelago]

"Now, just finish it off ... "
WILL DO, Passenger seat, canvas for seat, speedometer cable , and spare tire mount..
plan for 2020 will be full canvas got a incredible quote for canvas top, sides and doors with all bows and mounting hardware for 1400.00 and add a back seat at same time
THEN TO FIND A RADIO OF THE RIGHT VINTAGE.....................AND MX6707 AND MOUNT

ALSO PUT A VIDEO ON FB and got called by a movie company in Wilmington to use magoo in movies... got to think about that, liability, damages and such, but they made first offer of 500.00 a day. but got to think about this

[LarrBeard]

[QUOTE=pelago;9178]

THEN TO FIND A RADIO OF THE RIGHT VINTAGE.....................AND MX6707 AND MOUNT

What radio are you thinking - VRC-12?

As for being a movie star; $500/day plus your actual cost for property damage and personal liability insurance - and you get to approve what they want to do with it - no Dukes of Hazzard stunts or driving through land mine or mortar explosions.

[gmwillys]

I would have to think about that offer as well. Too many fine print gotchas. Magoo is suitable for the big screen though. Great Job Sir!

[pelago]

video non kaiser page
https://www.facebook.com/KaiserWillys/

[pelago]

Not a single body shop even wanted to look at the repair i want to have done, this repair beyond my limited skills, one woman said this jeep not in computer, i said the computer does not fix it it takes two hands and skill, guess you dont have any of that left here. went to five places all the same, they cant do it

4857

[gmwillys]

It's not that hard. Use the nylon abrasive brushes that they sell at the horrible freight for 3.99 on sale. Put it in your electric drill, and get it down to the bare metal. If the ridges are weld, blend it in the best you can to the base metal without digging in the the base. If you do not have the glove box in, you can take either a body hammer with a slight crown to it and a dolly on the outside to bring the shape out better. Shoot a light coat of primer or other dark color paint over the metal. Take a foam block sand paper to run over the area to see where you are high and low. Flatten out the high spots on the outside, then pop the low spots from the inside. When you are satisfied that you have got it as good as you can, then skim coat the section with body filler. Use the same foam block to sand the filler, because the foam keeps your strokes even and consistent.

If this is not in your wheel house, then check around to an honest to goodness hot rod shop. They should be able to set you up, because most don't even have a computer, except to buy vintage items to build another car.

If all else fails, I will come on over and knock it out in a days time, over drinks.... And bring the shovel I have been promising.

[pelago]

I actually found a "restoration" shop that deals in hot rods and rebuilds and they are in fact restoring a rusty (used to be anyway) 1964 mustang and they looked at it and had a discussion, and said, some bent and tortured metal there, (I said yeah to that) and in the past (can not see in photo) some phillips head screws?? and lots of bondo. I told him that i wold provide a new base for the mirror and it will have four holes tapped and ready to go. all that would have to be done is to weld it on. But that i wanted metal to be rebuilt and re attached to the entire damaged area of original, He said I can do this $300.00 us dollars, think am gonna jump on this.

ALSO MY SON made a video last time we were joy riding and with my hearing issues did not hear this, but the mike picked it up a damn exh leak right at the same place at the hook up at the header to tail, ordered another gasket

[bmorgil]

I would most definitely "Jump on that". Great price, and a pro will knock it out just right. All the sweat off your back.

[gmwillys]

I would agree to the $300. Good metal will limit the amount of fatigue cracking by the wind pushing against the mirror. You'll be better off in the long run. With my work schedule, it is hard to put together more than one day off in a row, so I would go with the trusted shop. They'll do you right!

[pelago]

seems like Magoo is leaning left?? checked all mounts and springs and all good??

going with the 300.00 body shop have seen some of their work faultless.. probably will wait til after holidays though
ordering s passenger seat next friday and a speedometer cable and spare tire mount

but damn now what do i got to do with time, buy another wreck like a pickemup?

[bmorgil]

I have a complete new suspension in mine. Springs, shackles everything. I checked the frame for square when it was stripped, and set the shackles to the book. I noticed after the first time out, it looked like it was leaning. I can't remember which side. I measured and it was. About 1/2" low on one side. After I drove it about 16 miles recently on the back roads to a show, it wasn't leaning anymore. I think it takes them a while to "settle in".

Now I was thinking about your comment "but damn now what do i got to do with time, ". I think pick a few of the matching era long guns and go to the range for a "mill" with the 1950 era toys!

[pelago]

Not a bad idea
4871
4872

I THOROUGHLY CHECKED SHACKLES AND SPRINGS, AND MAGOO LOOKS LIKE IT IS LEANING LEFT?? ABOUT A INCH... HAVE NOT DRIVEN OVER ROUGH TERRAIN BUT WILL DO (HAVE NOT DRIVEN IN 4WD YET). MIGHT GO ONTO CAMP LEJEUNE AND DRIVE OVER THE MANY MANY ROADS AND GET SOME GOOD BOUNCES. DID THE TAPE MEASURE THING AND CURIOUS, JUST MIGHT NOT BE SETTLED HAVE ONLY DRIVEN ON HARD SURFACES YET AND HAVE NOT DRIVEN OVER ANY GOOD "BUMPS" ALL THE RAILROAD CROSSINGS AND SUCH I SLOW DOWN.MIGHT HAVE TO BUMP HIM A BIT??
( I WON THE INAUGURAL CMP/NRA SNIPER MATCH IN 2011 WITH THE 1903A4, THIS IS A ORIGINAL WITH THE OLD LYMAN ALASKAN SCOPE, HAD A GUY REFURBISH IT) The course of fire was 10 rounds a 300 yards target comes up for 10 seconds and you shoot then it drips for 10 seconds and comes up again for another 10. then move to 600 and repeat. shot a 200 with 19x's, last round came 1.4" out of x ring to left, was positive it had gone into same hole but wth 1942 springfield shooting 168 grain match ammo. no alibis for any reason got the very first gold medal

[pelago]

spent four hours making new exh gasket, from correct material. put it in and still there and the culprit os junction where header pipe meets main pipe, when i connect the header pipe to manifold, but the no problem but when i go to connect that pipe it is off by a good 1 1/2 inches and undue torque on it makes the header pipe leak, have to relieve that somehow, kit was 169 us dollars, probably have to take it to Cliffs and say "fix it" he is a ex specialist and has put in dual exh in two of my trucks,,, "cherry bomb s" i probably will have to either have him make a new header pipe with correct matching bend?? #3 and ! us the issue the bend at #2 just aint right

48814882

[pelago]

Damn ex leak, took it all apart and tried it again but this time with the back attachment to frame not hooked up, wanted all the pieces to fit together loose, did so with double gasket, still got a damn leak.
one of many things here, pipe section at the flange not true? did not check with straight edge. manifold not true (doubt it i checked it when it was off
but wth,, new pipe is 40 bucks, muffler shop 95 an hour

4890

plus have rather large puddle under radiator and know very little might be simple might not, but anyone know anything about these folks
https://www.championradiators.com/Willys-radiator-1951-1953

cost of repair versus just get another one?? kaiser is HIGH!!!

[LarrBeard]

I'd take a long look at the flange on the cast iron exhaust manifold. Could there be enough rust/corrosion/eroding on that cast iron flange to keep it from sealing up?

[pelago]

FOUND IT, OF ALL THINGS IT WAS THE STUD, THE SUPPLIED STUDS DID NOT HAVE ENOUGH THREADS. Center of stud blank of course no threads but when i got under there i could see that the bolt was up to the blank spot on stud but really not tight, removed same and added more threads down to where the flange has threads exposed.. could tighten it up, no leak

still got radiator issue

[bmorgil]

I have no problem with a Champion radiator. I am real happy with mine. Great workmanship, made in the USA. On mine I had to do a little fabricating to get the shroud on and, I had to space it out a little to clear the front frame cross member. Even with that it fit pretty good.

[gmwillys]

The only downside is that the radiator mounts to the frame via the pockets on the side of the radiator, to the motor mounts. This allows the grill to be folded down, and the power pack to be pulled as an assembly. That will be something to look into when requesting a quote. If it is too high, then I would check at any local radiator repair shops to retain the original. A little leak looks like a lot in a puddle. The Champion radiators are nice pieces as Bmorgil stated. I would purchase one for either one of our Heeps, especially the V8 powered wagon.

Great find on the exhaust stud!

[pelago]

i aent them a note about that very topic waiting for reply, but then again might have repairable leak on mine, dont know

[gmwillys]

With all the environmental protection worries, most of the good radiator shops have gone away. The closest one to me is an hour and a half away.

[pelago]

With all the environmental protection worries, most of the good radiator shops have gone away. The closest one to me is an hour and a half away.



i think i have one close by i originally took it too him when it was out and he said he could rehab it. i think i got a small leak, but damn if i can find it. laid underneath it and just dont see it but get dripped on it is somewhere above the steering (i think)

[gmwillys]

It won't be a big deal to have a small repair made. You've driven it quite a bit lately, so I'm confident that your problem isn't a big one. A stress crack or a soldered joint is letting some coolant out.

[pelago]

Trying the black pepper deal?? Several tablespoons in radiator???

[gmwillys]

Only to get you home. A raw egg is another farmer's trick to get you to where you can repair properly. Wesco Silver Seal was always my go to for pinch fixes. It comes in a plastic tube, and consists of aluminum flakes. It won't kill the water pump, but can clog some of the flutes within the rad. It also works great for sealing up a leaking, (pouring) GM truck Saginaw power steering input shaft. The power steering pump growls until it chews it all down to a fine powder, but the puppy won't leak anymore.

[bmorgil]

I am pretty sure Champion custom made a radiator for TJones, at a reasonable sum. I'll bet they can make it mount up the way it was intended.

I would hate to see the old radiator leave you stranded. Most of the time they are going to cut and solder the leaking core tubes. This reduces the radiators ability. Like LarrBeard said, finding a shop that can really clean them any more is tough. All the new stuff is plastic, aluminum and glue. I did find a mature shop that has been around since the early 50's. He said he would be glad to help out but, he could never get close to the Champion price. When you repair an old core that is starting to fail, it usually fails somewhere else shortly after you fix it. He said the best thing to do was have a new core made. Upside of $500.

[pelago]

There is something in what you say,,, repair costs haveto be 100.00 to 200.00 and i feel that a new radiator set up to what ineed is possible good point repair costs versus just replace it

[gmwillys]

If you are not having overheating issues, and the overall core condition is good, you'll be in good shape for repair. The material used in the tanks and cores on the original rads was made to last, and would be a fairly easy fix as long as long as there is good material to bond with.

During my time playing with demolition derby cars, I had a favorite Chrysler radiator that was 4" out of square. The upper hose nipple had been punched through the front of the tank. It was fixed through pushing the tank back in position with a press, then brazed a patch over the hole in the front of the tank. When pressure checked, it had a couple seeps, but nothing to worry about. It held up to a big block running wide open, and running temps around 230 degrees without popping apart, but would rather whistle like a tea kettle.

[pelago]

The leak has stopped, probably only temporary, two full tablespoons of black pepper, actualy now runs about ten degrees warmer right at about 184 before pepper was 175, by temp gauge, feel that the issue is not a primary concern right now.
BRAKES, spent 6 hours on them today, first go around they were too tight, damn thing would hardly move, second attempt they were better but still not right, went around all four and backed off the eccentics on all wheels, could mot see inside of course, but feel that the shoes are just barely therre on all four. went for a ride and was up to speed on empty road and did a panic stop, damn, it stopped pretty darn good. Had to remove hub on right front darn eccentric locking nut just did not want to turn right, so removed it and replaced locking nut and it went is as it should

[gmwillys]

You are going to be the brake master adjuster before you're done.

[bmorgil]

Success! Stopping pretty good is as good as it gets!

[TJones]

Pelago,
I have the old radiator out of mine that may be the same or close to yours and it's been all redone if your interested in it.

4897489848994900

[pelago]

You are going to be the brake master adjuster before you're done.



I found that if the wheels are still on it makes it difficult to turn, i know the wt of wheels should help, however i 1/2 way dismantled the front end and just drum on and i could really feel the eccentrics move the shoes, too much and it locks up, got it do just barely touching.. then re assembled and did rear end same

[pelago]

think i messed up with the pepper, probably got all the water passages gobbed up with pepper now running hot

[pelago]

Pelago,
I have the old radiator out of mine that may be the same or close to yours and it's been all redone if your interested in it.

4897489848994900



from a m38a1?

[bmorgil]

Pepper will reject water. It is not attracted to it. A good flush will get it out.

TJones has a 1952 M38 or CJ3B I think.

[LarrBeard]

think i messed up with the pepper, probably got all the water passages gobbed up with pepper now running hot

Well, that was always one of the down home remedies for a leaky radiator. I've never tried it, but now we know it probably isn't that good an idea.

Another lesson learned and myth busted.

We're still learning.

[TJones]

It’s a 52 M38, you’ll have to check to see if it will fit.
Mine has bolts on the bottom tank that holds it in place.

[pelago]

Well, that was always one of the down home remedies for a leaky radiator. I've never tried it, but now we know it probably isn't that good an idea.

Another lesson learned and myth busted.

We're still learning.
prior to using the pepper, i had good water flow and the temp was running 178-181 around there and as i said coolant flow was superb, now coolant flow is not as it should and that tells me that the radiator not flowing and only reason it wouldnot flow has to be that the coolant channels are not right, pepper gobs in it
****

[gmwillys]

Dough! Pepper will get you home, but not a long term fix.

A true M38 radiator was designed just like the early A1s. Mount rods come up from the motor mounts to the sides of the radiator. This was the only means of mounting the rad, to make the engine and cooling an assembly. The grill was not mounted to the rad or the crossmember. The assembly could be plucked out of the frame without draining coolant, and coul be ground hopped outside of the vehicle to ensure the pack was running properly. Not much has changed over the years. Today's modern military machines still use the "Full Up Power Pack" method to power vehicles. We service and test packs, then Dyno test the whole assembly to ensure the FUPP will withstand the punishment offered by war.

[pelago]

anyoe ever tried to reverse flush a radiator? i never have, and since a water pump just moves water it really does not provide any pressure, but to remove this crap maybe needs pressure?? damn pepper was a bust. to sop a very small leak i managed to bothch it up

[bmorgil]

The easiest way to flush is to open the drain on the bottom of the radiator, and trickle water in the top while its running. Adjust the water flow in to match the water flow out and let it go until its coming out clean. Though the pump provides little pressure it does have a good flow. I think the pepper will come out.

[pelago]

The easiest way to flush is to open the drain on the bottom of the radiator, and trickle water in the top while its running. Adjust the water flow in to match the water flow out and let it go until its coming out clean. Though the pump provides little pressure it does have a good flow. I think the pepper will come out.



might work.. also had this suggestion use CLR in the thing and get it to temp and let sit for a while then drain, also suggested to use dishwasher soap in it?? both sound pretty cheap and sure can not screw the pooch more than is is. One gent said that is what they do at a Caterpillar facility and it works on $100,000.00 cats......................

one fellow suggested that i use a product (dont remember the name) that is aluminum chips or aluminum oxide he said it worked for him HOWEVER AFTER LIVING ON A SAILBOAT FOR TEN YEARS I FOUND OUT THE HARD WAY THAT ALUMINUM AND BRASS JUST DO NOT LIKE ON ANOTHER............ELECTROLYSIS TURNED PART OF MY MAST TO REAL CRAP WHEN SOMEONE USED BRASS SCREWS ON A ALUMINUM MAST. ACTUALLY HAD TO CUT OUT THE PARTS THAT WERE REALLY BAD AND HAVE THE MAST REPAIRED. COST A BUNCH TOO

[pelago]

a question, octane rating, today we can get 87,89,93. how do these compare to "ethyl and regular" from 1952, try to google it and i get everything under the sun but what i am looking for, all i remember was sunoco 260 (on the way to us 30 dragstrip in 1960), and if i am not mistaken the actual octane of sunoco 260 was actually about 106 curious, not talkiing about the lead or lack of lead but just plain octane

[bmorgil]

This is a good flush solution. I wouldn't put something in that can "suds" up, harden or cake. https://gobdp.com/blog/what-is-the-best-way-to-flush-a-radiator/

From some old info I have on fuel, after World War II, gasoline octanes in the United States were around 79 for regular and 85 for premium. By 1954 it looks like premium gasoline's were rated as high as 94 octane and regular at 86. I ran a lot of Sunoco 260 also. Excellent fuel and as you stated, it was rated at 106 octane.

The little L134 and F134 was designed to run on 63 octane! The low 6.4 to 1 compression ratio and low timing advance, allowed some pretty poor fuel to run in the motor. I suppose this was because during war, you used any fuel you could find. The F head ratio was raised to 7.4 with an option to go back to the 6.4 ratio. I do know that when I was selling car parts in South America, the mechanics would tell me the fuel was low in octane and high in sulfur. I would guess that Willys wanted to be sure the motor would run wherever it went.

I have read a few forum posts where the tuner turns the timing up. I also turn the timing up a bit. The non ethanol fuel I have found is 90 octane. I run about 8 degrees before. I am sure it will take a LOT more!

[LarrBeard]

Just to add a tidbit:

My aviation buddy talks about aviation fuel after WWII. The big radial engines (think B-29 and Super Constellation) ran a high supercharge and the fuel (113/130+ octane) was considered to be an aromatic hydrocarbon with a molecular structure closer to perfume than what we would consider gasoline.

The Esslingen Ordinance rebuild plate kind of surprised a lot of us as just how bad Jeep gas could be. You could pull up to the pump and order "One Octane over Kerosene ..."

[gmwillys]

The military still runs a pretty low standard octane fuel in their combat vehicles. In our CAT engines, (3126/C-7 series) we run JP-8. The downside is that the closer to kerosene fuel doesn't have the lubricity characteristics that a #2 diesel grade would have. In turn we use an oil exchanger that pipes in metered used crank case oil into the fuel rail. New oil is then introduced into the crankcase to replace the amount that is burned off. Sounds like a good trade off, but we do not see much more than 4,000 hours out of a set of injectors. The dyno pulls are comparable with an engine running #2, except the torque is better with diesel. The next generation of vehicles is leaving the line with #2 diesel in the tanks.

Starting in the '50s, most all of the deuce and a half's were running multifuel engines. They could burn just about anything liquid that would combust. The turbine engine in the M-1 Abrams main battle tank will burn just about anything as well, but at a half mile per gallon, it better.

[pelago]

don't seem to have the get up and go i thought i would have??

http://m38a1.com/Resources/tabulated_data.htm

[bmorgil]

There's not much there that's for sure! With the gearing they came with however, they can climb a wall with that little engine.

[pelago]

SO SO NOT SURE NOW??? GOT SPEEDOMETER CABLE AND CAN NOT GET HIGHER THAN 40MPH IN 3RD....
WENT TO THE MANUAL.
check compression, did so and not happy, not sure what when where or how. cycl 1, and 2 seem okay above 100. (manual says 125 factory and above 100 is acceptable with min of 100). plug one and two looked good, good fire
but 3 and 4 carbon and sorta wet???? compression both st hi 90 considerable difference between 1&2 tp 3&4
the manual says if adjoining cyl low comp could be leak between the two?? now occasional, for no reason i get a backfire while idle??. Book says re torque and test again.. doing that now, couple of the head bolts seem a bit loose (well not loose but they had some to go to get to 65lbs)
putting it all back together and then re test after i warm it up

[bmorgil]

You might want to make sure a valve didn't get a little tight on the lash. Can you show a picture of the plugs? Do you have a way to see if the vacuum is steady at idle?

[pelago]

no vacum check, just went around the block and get to 30+ in 2nd and just dont have a run long enough to run out 3rd. highest on short flat hwy 40ish but was a improvement. sounds throatier and stronger?? kinda warm not to be sticking fingers in there for another compression check....

did another compression test.... not good
SEEMS LIKE I GAMBLED AND LOST....
WHEN I BOUGHT THIS THING WAS TOLD THE MOTOR RAN FINE, WELL IT DOES BUT DOES NOT HAVE ANY OOOOOMPH TO IT SUPPOSED TO GET 25 IN FIRST, 40 IN SECOND AND 60 IN 3RD
I DONT CLOSE TO IT IN FIRST AND 35 IN SECOND BUT CAN NOT EVEN GET ABOVE 40 IN THIRD

BUT DO HAVE A COMPLETE SPARE ENGINE THAT WAS TOLD WHEN JEEP PARKED IT RAN.
Guess the new chapter in Magoo will be major motor overhaul with exception maybe having to get new pistons extra 150.00 al piecees and parts come to about 400 catalog prices. i have a engine stand and will start mounting the spare motor to the engine stand today. there is a excellent machine shop close by if need to be bored or what have you, and they can dip and clean both head and block then valves.

I will keep my original plan too finish the jeep before holidays, canvas for seats, pair of seat belts (not original of course but i feel needed) windshield wipers, bumpettes. next year will only get full set of canvas, was quoted 1400.00 for all of it, bows, top, sides, doors the whole shooting match

[pelago]

OKAY, NOW THIS IS GOING TO RAISE AN EYBROW OR TWO.. COMPRESSION AS A RATIO
Compression Ratio 7.4 to 1 M38A1 134F MOTOR

HOW DO YOU EQUATE RATIO FROM A MIN OF 100 POUNDS TO MAX OF 125 POUNDS

WHERE CAN I FIND CRANKSHAFT SPECS, MAIN AND ROD BEARING DIAMETER MIN/MAX GONNA PUT THIS IN A FILE, I KNOW THE BORE IS 3 1/8": PROBABLY NEED FOR CAM TOO

[bmorgil]

Everything should be here https://cj3b.info/Hurricane.html

Also here are the different versions of the F head 4-134 https://www.jeeptech.com/engine/hurricane134.html

Attached files are from the Universal Service Manual

[pelago]

everything should be here https://cj3b.info/hurricane.html

also here are the different versions of the f head 4-134 https://www.jeeptech.com/engine/hurricane134.html

attached files are from the universal service manual



but wht is the diameter for rod bearings on crank and main bearings on crank?? And still to this day do not understand compression ratio how does ratio come into ply when compression at 125 std 100 acceptable?

[LarrBeard]

but wht is the diameter for rod bearings on crank and main bearings on crank?? And still to this day do not understand compression ratio how does ratio come into ply when compression at 125 std 100 acceptable?

I need a while to organize my thoughts and I'll try to tie it together.

Ok, I gathered a bit .....

What does compression ratio have to do with how many PSI you get on a compression check?

To get a first quick answer, we go back to Boyle’s Law (Boyle is a dead Englishman) that says the volume of a gas is inversely proportional to its pressure – assuming constant temperature. Let’s just look at the first part of this – it means if you squeeze it, the pressure goes up.

To make a rough connection to compression ratio, let’s take atmospheric pressure as 15 PSI (close for an example). If I compress the gas (air) in a L-134 cylinder by a factor of 7.4 (compression ratio), I should multiply 15 times 7.4 to get an idea of the pressure I would expect. When I do the numbers, I get 111 PSI – somewhat less than the 125 PSI the spec calls out. Where are the other fwe PSI?

Well, part of the added pressure comes from the second part of Mr. Boyle’s Law – the part about constant temperature. When you squeeze that air together in the top of the cylinder, it gets hot and we can discount that “constant temperature” stuff. As the compressed air gets hotter, its pressure rises even more (think about a big Cat diesel engine just before the injector opens).

If we had a perfectly sealed chamber, that air we just squeezed would have a lot more pressure than the 125 PSI we are talking about because it would be a lot hotter – which also raises pressure. But – we don’t have a perfectly sealed chamber in that cylinder. Good valves seal very well – no appreciable leakage there, but we do have leakage back through ring gaps. Worn cylinder walls let ring gaps open up and oval shaped cylinders don’t let rings seal well at all.

The pressure we measure in a compression check is a function of the compression ratio, how hot the air gets when it is compressed and how much of it leaks back past rings and cylinder walls as it is being compressed. There is probably no really good way to calculate the answer any closer than we did with our Boyle Law example, so we rely on what people have measured on known good engines.

An L-134 with good rings, good valves and good ring sealing will give you 125 PSI (plus some or minus just a little). If there is something wrong (leaky valve seats, worn rings, out of round cylinder walls or scored walls), there is enough leakage to drop the pressure down to 100 or even less. We've seen engines at 50 or 60 that still kind of run ... Experience tells us that compression much below 100 PSI indicates wear and will give hard starting (especially on a hot engine) and as we all know -blue oil smoke out the exhaust.

Did that help any – I didn’t want to turn into a “perfesser”.

[bmorgil]

The rod bearing diameter on the crank (listed in the attachment as Crankpin Journal) is 1.9375" to 1.9383" . The Mains on the crank (listed in the attachment as Journal Diameter) is 2.3331" to 2.3341". .003" bearing clearance is max.

100 psi is not acceptable "by the book". The acceptable compression for the 6.9 to 1 compression F134 is 120 to 130 psi. The high altitude option 7.4 to 1 compression is slightly higher at 125 to 135 psi. Though 100 is not considered "acceptable" in the service manual, I have known many an engine to run OK on less. My 6.4 to 1 compression L134 has a pressure range of 90 to 110 psi "by the book".

[pelago]

i need a while to organize my thoughts and i'll try to tie it together.

Ok, i gathered a bit .....

What does compression ratio have to do with how many psi you get on a compression check?

To get a first quick answer, we go back to boyle’s law (boyle is a dead englishman) that says the volume of a gas is inversely proportional to its pressure – assuming constant temperature. Let’s just look at the first part of this – it means if you squeeze it, the pressure goes up.

To make a rough connection to compression ratio, let’s take atmospheric pressure as 15 psi (close for an example). If i compress the gas (air) in a l-134 cylinder by a factor of 7.4 (compression ratio), i should multiply 15 times 7.4 to get an idea of the pressure i would expect. When i do the numbers, i get 111 psi – somewhat less than the 125 psi the spec calls out. Where are the other fwe psi?

Well, part of the added pressure comes from the second part of mr. Boyle’s law – the part about constant temperature. When you squeeze that air together in the top of the cylinder, it gets hot and we can discount that “constant temperature” stuff. As the compressed air gets hotter, its pressure rises even more (think about a big cat diesel engine just before the injector opens).

If we had a perfectly sealed chamber, that air we just squeezed would have a lot more pressure than the 125 psi we are talking about because it would be a lot hotter – which also raises pressure. But – we don’t have a perfectly sealed chamber in that cylinder. Good valves seal very well – no appreciable leakage there, but we do have leakage back through ring gaps. Worn cylinder walls let ring gaps open up and oval shaped cylinders don’t let rings seal well at all.

The pressure we measure in a compression check is a function of the compression ratio, how hot the air gets when it is compressed and how much of it leaks back past rings and cylinder walls as it is being compressed. There is probably no really good way to calculate the answer any closer than we did with our boyle law example, so we rely on what people have measured on known good engines.

An l-134 with good rings, good valves and good ring sealing will give you 125 psi (plus some or minus just a little). If there is something wrong (leaky valve seats, worn rings, out of round cylinder walls or scored walls), there is enough leakage to drop the pressure down to 100 or even less. We've seen engines at 50 or 60 that still kind of run ... Experience tells us that compression much below 100 psi indicates wear and will give hard starting (especially on a hot engine) and as we all know -blue oil smoke out the exhaust.

Did that help any – i didn’t want to turn into a “perfesser”.

put it in doc file and saved it

[pelago]

the rod bearing diameter on the crank (listed in the attachment as crankpin journal) is 1.9375" to 1.9383" . The mains on the crank (listed in the attachment as journal diameter) is 2.3331" to 2.3341". .003" bearing clearance is max.

100 psi is not acceptable "by the book". The acceptable compression for the 6.9 to 1 compression f134 is 120 to 130 psi. The high altitude option 7.4 to 1 compression is slightly higher at 125 to 135 psi. Though 100 is not considered "acceptable" in the service manual, i have known many an engine to run ok on less. My 6.4 to 1 compression l134 has a pressure range of 90 to 110 psi "by the book".
saved it to a doc file

[pelago]

I WANT A MANUAL FOR THE 134F MOTOR NOT THIS
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/mechanics-service-manual-fits-52-66-m38a1
during my years in Marines this would have been a 1st or 2nd echelon maintenance manual. does not have a "blow up" of motor although a worthwhile manual it does not do this as it so describes
"Reprint of the original service manual. Includes complete vehicle disassembly, assembly, and blowup diagrams. If your looking to restore your vehicle - this is the first thing you should buy. A complete walk thru to help you rebuild or trouble shoot just about any mechanical or electrical problem. Don't rely on those wrong universal manuals - this is the proper one. Guaranteed. Original military issue."

this one??
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/master-parts-list-manual-fits-55-71-cj-5-with-4-134-engine

tired of spending 40-50 bucks on a manual that does not tell me what torque to put on main bearings or rod bearings

I rebuilt a Kubota engine and they had the most incredible manual it had diagrams and pictures of each and every step in the process... i rebuilt my 4cyl diesel with this one

4935

I WANT ONE THAT I CAN GET INSIDE THIS THING

4936

[bmorgil]

I have the universal manual. Mine is a L head. The universal manual covers both. Other than an error on the rebuild process for the water pump, it was pretty helpful. I think this manual would be very helpful. Many things are the same with the M38A1 and the CJ3B.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/vehicle/53-64-cj-3b/literature/mechanics-manuals/mechanics-service-manual-fits-46-65-cj-2a-3a-3b-5

I found a few typo errors in it. Every specification to fully machine and rebuild the motor was in it. All the torque specs are there for the L 134 and the F 134 and they are correct. It was a bit vague in some areas but for the most part, it was great.

Have you seen this web site? http://www.m38a1.com/Resources/manuals_reading.htm I am not sure if this is the same stuff you have seen.

I have the TM9-8014 PDF and TM9-8015-1PDF “Operation and Organizational Maintenance for Truck, Utility ¼ Ton 4x4, M38A1” "Engine and Clutch manual" and the TM9-8015-2 powertrain and frame manual. They are PDF files. They are big files. I can only send them via email. I attached pictures of the covers. They are 53 MB in size. I can send them to you in an email. If you want them send me a PM with your email. I can also get it to LarrBeard or gmwillys . I think these are the manuals you are looking for.

[pelago]

FOUND ONE IN HARD COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/TM9-8015-1-Maintenance-Manual-Jeep-F-Head-Engine-M38A1-Reprnt/372755543010?hash=item56c9f633e2:g:Js4AAMXQobdQ9ET k

PROBABLY COST THAT MUCH IN INK AND PAPER TO PRINT IT

[bmorgil]

True! I have the other two if you need them. I just print the pages I am working on that day. I also like to have the hard copy. Best way to pass the time when the game is on!

[pelago]

this might be a stupid question, but on my old 1932 Graham Paige that i restored back in late 50'd and early 60's i was able to push the complete piston out thru the top of the block (6 cyl inline) and replace rings. Now for the sake of shits and giggles this possible with my motor? just been thinking out loud, get a set of say .010 over rings and put them in? think it would improve compression?? do able?? However am sort of committed to complet rebuild of the spare motor also. new head gasket, rings, rod bearings, oil pan gasket

on the old graham i did it one piston at a time, removed, replaced and it started fine. then again maybe just push piston up enough to replace rings????
lots of comments, dumb, stupid, dumb *** move, good idea?????????????

[bmorgil]

Ira, no such thing as a stupid question.

I would not do it. I am familiar with how they were kept running back in the day. That may have been driven by economy rather than correct procedure and process!

That said, if there is no ridge, they will definitely come out the top. The most important part of a re ring is the cylinder wall finish. If it is smooth the rings will not break in. To rough or, a bad pattern, and they will wear out before they seal. The fit and finish between the cylinder wall and the ring face is the whole deal. This "interface" is the most important thing you can do for the ring seal. The ring gap must also be correct.

[gmwillys]

I concur with Bmorgil.
My grandfather used the 2A I have around the farm up until his death. When he took possession of the Willys, it burned more oil than gas. Since Grandpa was a minimalist, he replaced the one piston that was burned. No machine work, just the bare essentials. Everything worked out alright, as far as oil consumption is concerned, but the time is growing near to go through the engine again. 25 years on a bandaid fix isn't bad, and there are some unrelated oil leaks that need attention as well.
Moral of the story, you can get a good running engine by cutting corners, but the longevity won't be there.

[pelago]

"but the longevity won't be there."

"I would not do it. I am familiar with how they were kept running back in the day. That may have been driven by economy rather than correct procedure and process!"

OH WELL, WAS JUST THINKING OUT LOUD,

[pelago]

Getting a start on it
some pictures
4941 4942 494349444945

[pelago]

Some more

4946 49474948 4949 4950

[bmorgil]

Looking good! No broken rods. Can't wait to hear how the bearings and throws look.

[pelago]

looking good! No broken rods. Can't wait to hear how the bearings and throws look.

there are two little rubber plugs right next to the rear main by flywheel plate they are covered by the gasket, where in heck do yo get those??

[bmorgil]

They come in the gasket set. They run down between the main cap and the block. They seal the block to the main cap and the pan to the block and main cap. I found them to be tricky little Bast@#!%s to get in. I did figure out a successful way.

[bmorgil]

Behind the cam gear there is a small spacer ring between the bearing and the gear. Don't loose that. It kind of sticks in there. Before you take out the crank, check the end play. It will be helpful on reassembly.

[gmwillys]

The cylinder ridge doesn't look too bad. Be sure to check around the distributor for cracks in the block casting.
We will be looking forward to seeing your progress.

[pelago]

check around the distributor for cracks in the block casting.
We will be looking forward to seeing your progress.

Behind the cam gear there is a small spacer ring between the bearing and the gear. Don't loose that. It kind of sticks in there. Before you take out the crank, check the end play. It will be helpful on reassembly.

They come in the gasket set

There are no ridges in cyl walls at all. walls kinda shiny, but my plan is to take the block to a machine shop that did my kubota 4 cyl

(that motor unique, when i sold the boat,sad day, the buyer wanted to check compression, i said "I CAN DO THAT I HAVE A COMPRESSION TEST METER" . Then said "if compression okay its a deal then, right" he said "yes" when i rebuilt that motor i did a dry and wet compression test and had written the results down in the KUBOTA maint manual and the date it was done. Showed him the page and said "thats a good comparison to what i will do now" Plus by log book i had over 5000 hours on motor since i had rebuilt it. DAMN IF COMPRESSION WAS ALMOST IDENTICAL TO THE ONE I HAD DONE YEARS AGO. IT WAS RIGHT ON THE MONEY AND MET ALL STANDARDS. BUYER SAID 'WOW' We shook hands and he gave me a paper bag with $35,000.00 in it, done deal" When i got in my truck i cried)

Today will pull all four pistons and take a engraver and mark each one by number on rod and bearing cap, when i pulled the cam once before on the engine in the jeep now to redo with new exh valves i remember that spacer

Also plan on having the hardened seats installed and am putting in new stainless valves, new tappet and new guides, probably will have new intake valves also, but am letting the machine shop guys tell me if i need new intake valves

WHAT WAS THE PURPOSE OF THE RUBBER PUGS? HAVE TO SOMETIMES ASK THE ORIGINAL ENGINEERS ON STUFF LIKE THIS, AND WHY IN THE HELL HAVE DIFFERENT WHEEL LUGS ON LEFT SIDE OF VEHICLE FROM RIGHT SIDE?? CAN NOT FIGURE OUT THAT ONE, THINK OF PULLING ALL FOUR TIRES AND PUTTING ALL LUG NUTS IN A CAN AND THEN HAVING TO FIGURE OUT WHICH ONE IS A LEFTY AND WHICH ONES A RIGHTY THEN ADD THAT THIS WAS IN BASTOGNE IN DEC 44

[pelago]

DAMN IF I DID NOT FORGET THE SPRING TOOL??? THIS THE ONE THAT I NEED, DO NOT HAVE ONE
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ford-V-8-Flathead-K-D-No-918-Valve-Guide-Puller-KD-Tool/264471692875?hash=item3d93bdc64b:g:QJoAAOSwtpFcqlB i

[bmorgil]

I don't think you will need that tool. There are some much eaiser to use tools for the intake springs. https://www.harborfreight.com/universal-overhead-valve-spring-compressor-60335.html?cid=paid_google|||60335&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=s|pcrid|385364674719|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||p roduct|60335|&pgrid=79002131432&ptaid=pla-823098251981&pcid=6549872779&intent=&gclid=CjwKCAjwxOvsBRAjEiwAuY7L8mpiJpbOs5ebGEb_ksRZ IXSO5si6Bv-ijNq8RIkURC5cEBnbnCkaQxoCruoQAvD_BwE

The exhaust springs just take two screw drivers. I would take the head into the shop and let them tear it down and reassemble it. They will need to check the spring height any way. May as well have them assemble it.

Excellent idea on the stainless valves and the hardened seats. It wouldn't surprise me if the shop tells you they are already hardened.

Those "plugs" are unique for sure. If you are careful on reassembly and check the installed height, they work, somehow.They have a tough job to do back there. They seal the cap to the block and the cap and block t the pan.

I changed all the lugs left and right to right hand. Don't care if it isn't original on that one. I have never been able to totally get the logic on that. Righty tighty lefty loosey. Chrysler did this for a long time. I have seen many stripped studs because of the confusion. I can't imagine figuring it out while I am being shot at.

[pelago]

" I changed all the lugs left and right to right hand." YES YES YES, AND AM DOING THAT, WHAT A PAIN IN THE *** TIGHTEN LEFT.........

[gmwillys]

The tool shown was designed for flat head Ford V-8 valve guides, and not valve springs.

What you need is this;

http://www.2040-parts.com/bluepoint-cf-1-valve-spring-compressor-early-jeep-mb-cj2a-cj3-gpw-4-cyl-flathead-i726136/

Two screw drivers will work up until you lose a keeper. The spring compressor lets you ease tension off of the keeper, then you can pick the keepers out of position. This will make your life less interesting. You can use a standard valve spring compressor for the intake valves.

[pelago]

After looking at that, i felt that it was not the one that i want and actually found the one you have on ebay and ordered it

[gmwillys]

As far as the lug nuts/studs, that was standard practice for some brands through the mid sixties to have left hand thread on the driver's side. Some heavy trucks stayed with it until the mid eighties. The theory was that the torque of the wheel turning forward on the driver's side would loosen the lug nuts....

To remove the lug studs, a broaching tool would help. Material from the drum is peened over the stud to prevent it from loosening up through abuse. See attached video;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi_FrxpeSi0

Also found this good video of the brake adjustment on a GPW.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKlIszhs-gE

[bmorgil]

That tool will definitely help on the exhaust valve spring. I was thinking economy.

I did not remove the peen on the studs. I used a strong receiver and a 20 ton press. It just "pops" them out. It breaks the peen in a clean small ring a bit less material than the video shows cutting out. Make no mistake, it takes every bit of the 20 ton press.

[pelago]

PISTONS OUT
damn rod bearings look great no score, no heat smooth, crank looks even better

[bmorgil]

Excellent news!

[pelago]

UPDATE PISTONS AND RODS AND CRANK by running fingers over crank can find a couple of "dimples" on rod bearing

4954 495549564957

[pelago]

wow thought ws happy with rod bearings, mains look new, not a mark on them crank is out, block has tho have cam out and ready for machine shop[

[gmwillys]

Looks pretty good so far.

[pelago]

They come in the gasket set. They run down between the main cap and the block. They seal the block to the main cap and the pan to the block and main cap. I found them to be tricky little Bast@#!%s to get in. I did figure out a successful way.
am sort of thinking ahead, but when you put the rubber plugs in did you do it with the main bearing cap on and fit then down the hole or lay it in the bearing cap when it was put on?

and it is sure too bad that the motor i have in magoo now just has no guts....... sure runs sweet idles great, my son says it sounds like a singer sewing machine but just wont go

machine shop
www.gofastmotors.com

[bmorgil]

I have attached the procedure as outlined in the General Service manual for your F head. They direct you to install the mains torque the caps check the end play and then as the last, install the Rubber Packing's "Plugs".

The plugs are supposed to be a prefigured correct length. You are to insert them into the assembled cap and block, push them down, and not trim them. They are supposed to stick up about 1/4" once they are pushed in all the way down.

I had two problems. I could only push them down about 3/4 of the way down. I tried oil and that did not help. I then removed the main cap and inserted the plugs ahead of time. I used black silicone very lightly on all cap to block surfaces. I used a small amount on the plugs to make them slide a little easier. I then fit everything together at once. Pushing the cap seals and all into place. I then had about 3/8" of plug sticking up. I took it all apart again and measured the plugs. About 1/8" two long and probably a little fatter than the originals. I reassembled using the same process of inserting everything together, and trimmed the rubber to 1/4". I applied 5 lbs of air pressure to the assembled motor to insure there were no leaks. The rear cap, pan and main all sealed up nicely, 150 miles now and the assembly is leak free!

[pelago]

I have attached the procedure as outlined in the General Service manual for your F head. They direct you to install the mains torque the caps check the end play and then as the last, install the Rubber Packing's "Plugs".

The plugs are supposed to be a prefigured correct length. You are to insert them into the assembled cap and block, push them down, and not trim them. They are supposed to stick up about 1/4" once they are pushed in all the way down.

I had two problems. I could only push them down about 3/4 of the way down. I tried oil and that did not help. I then removed the main cap and inserted the plugs ahead of time. I used black silicone very lightly on all cap to block surfaces. I used a small amount on the plugs to make them slide a little easier. I then fit everything together at once. Pushing the cap seals and all into place. I then had about 3/8" of plug sticking up. I took it all apart again and measured the plugs. About 1/8" two long and probably a little fatter than the originals. I reassembled using the same process of inserting everything together, and trimmed the rubber to 1/4". I applied 5 lbs of air pressure to the assembled motor to insure there were no leaks. The rear cap, pan and main all sealed up nicely, 150 miles now and the assembly is leak free!

sounds like fun

[bmorgil]

Not as bad as it sounds. Your plugs may fit better than mine. It may go together for you like the book. I used a gasket set from KW. I did not use the head gasket. Beware of any head gasket that does not say "Made in USA". There are reports of some bad stuff out there. I ordered the oil pan, valve cover and head gasket from Fel-Pro. Very high quality.

[gmwillys]

Absolutely, use the American made valve cover gasket and head gasket. Fel-pro is my choice for any engine build or reseal. The new Fel-Pro valve cover(s) gaskets can be reused when adjusting the valves, but may need a bit of shellac to ensure a good seal on the exhaust on the second round of adjustments down the road.

[pelago]

"THERE IS NO FOOL LIKE A OLD FOOL' WELL, I am the old fool, all this time i have been going in the wrong damn direction on the motor in my m38a1, just would not get up to speed..... NO FREAKIN WONDER IT WAS ONLY RUNNING ON TWO CYL.... When i had posted the little video of the motor running someone here thankfully thought that it was not running on all four, damn if he wasn't right. After he said that I went out and looked, disconnected each plut while running and found 1 and 2 just not firing, said what the hell??? these are brand new plugs, in fact i took the plug out and grounded it and ZERO FREAKIN SPARK. got two of the old plugs out of the box (original) and fired it up.... Damn Damn, double damn all four fired, took it out for a ride and Holy ShXt Batman it got up to 55 with no issues, had more but did nto push it.

who would have known four new plugs and two did not fire. Dumb is dumb and i am dumb, forgot who felt not running on four but thank you....

[bmorgil]

Wow, two bad plugs. I had one happen on an 8 cylinder long ago. I never used that brand again. But two in a row? Wow that is pretty bad. Well that saved you a bunch of time and money!

[gmwillys]

It wouldn't hurt so bad if it weren't for the fact that the A1 uses the waterproof plugs.

[pelago]

here are the culprits
4989

[LarrBeard]

Where did you get them?

Looks like time for a return!

[bmorgil]

"and it is sure too bad that the motor i have in magoo now just has no guts....... sure runs sweet idles great, my son says it sounds like a singer sewing machine but just wont go"

Well you got your wish anyway! All good in the end. Definitely check the next ones they send you. LarrBeard is right, send em' back for sure. I do hope they take them back.

[pelago]

"and it is sure too bad that the motor i have in magoo now just has no guts....... sure runs sweet idles great, my son says it sounds like a singer sewing machine but just wont go"

Well you got your wish anyway! All good in the end. Definitely check the next ones they send you. LarrBeard is right, send em' back for sure. I do hope they take them back.

as much money as i have spent they should

[LarrBeard]

as much money as i have spent they should
I
Most of the Jeep places are really good about making things right. It's just sheister motor rebuilders that say TANGO SIERRA buddy.

[bmorgil]

TANGO SIERRA buddy.

I love that one LarrBeard! I am going to use it.

I can't wait to hear how magoo runs with two new plugs. There is a story on another forum, about a guy running his 50's M38A1 up to 70 mph trying to dodge traffic! It blew up, he said she broke the crank. Sounds like when you get magoo back out you better take it easy on the old machine trying to hit top end!

[pelago]

I love that one LarrBeard! I am going to use it.

I can't wait to hear how magoo runs with two new plugs. There is a story on another forum, about a guy running his 50's M38A1 up to 70 mph trying to dodge traffic! It blew up, he said she broke the crank. Sounds like when you get magoo back out you better take it easy on the old machine trying to hit top end!

oh yeah dont even like going fifty in open jeep

[pelago]

finally got the book, now all the questions i hope can be answered
https://www.ebay.com/itm/TM9-8015-1-Maintenance-Manual-Jeep-F-Head-Engine-M38A1-Reprnt/372755543010?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648

[bmorgil]

I do like the thoroughness of the military documents. I just sent all three of the military documents for the M38A1 to Amy. We'll see if she can put them up in the Tech area.

[pelago]

A QUESTION were the insides of these blocks bead blasted, or painted? Seems that there is a patina which is not a normal casting finish, and has a sort o caterpiller color inside?

Am actually thinking ahead about pieces and parts, valves, rings, bearings so forth. Been traditionally using Kaiser, but they seem high for a valve replacement cost suggestions to look for comparison.

saw a valve kit that included all the pieces to install new valves, including springs and retainers for 70.00 a lot more at kaiser individually, not knocking them in as much as they have treated me great, but this rebuild will include lots of new stuff, so am shopping, lots of good prices on ebay

was told by two shops that if one uses stainless valves such as offered by kaiser (basically 100.00 for four valves and other pieces and parts) hardened seats not needed. are hardened seats worth putting in the block for exhaust and head for intake????

got my valve (ford flathead tool) and damn if it did not bring back memories of working on the old flatheads............... and it worked all ex valves out...

is there a tool that i need to get to get the guides out? or leave them for the machine shop, will use this tool ONCE????

not even going to mess with the water pump just get a new one pulley and all

when a block and or head "dipped" and cleaned what is the process, never seen it done?
like i said lots of question

[bmorgil]

A QUESTION were the insides of these blocks bead blasted, or painted? Seems that there is a patina which is not a normal casting finish, and has a sort o caterpiller color inside?
A lot of the components, blocks, axle housings and cases were coated with a reddish coating intended to seal any porosity that might be in the castings. It was a coating used extensively in the electric motor world. I think it is called Glyptal.

Am actually thinking ahead about pieces and parts, valves, rings, bearings so forth. Been traditionally using Kaiser, but they seem high for a valve replacement cost suggestions to look for comparison.
I think your best bet is going with a name brand component. The pistons are Silvolites from KW. I think they are the only brand you will find. Made in USA if you can find it on the Valves and Springs. This is good stuff https://beta.fme-cat.com/Application.aspx?year=1953&make=JEEP&model=WILLYS&cat=Engine&ga=Y. I used KW stuff except for the Head, Valve cover and oil pan gasket. It was good quality stuff. MAHLE is also good.

saw a valve kit that included all the pieces to install new valves, including springs and retainers for 70.00 a lot more at kaiser individually, not knocking them in as much as they have treated me great, but this rebuild will include lots of new stuff, so am shopping, lots of good prices on ebay
Just watch the "China" and off brands.

was told by two shops that if one uses stainless valves such as offered by kaiser (basically 100.00 for four valves and other pieces and parts) hardened seats not needed. are hardened seats worth putting in the block for exhaust and head for intake????
It has long been established that hardened seats are needed on the exhaust seat to prevent the seat from receding into the port. The hot exhaust and the pounding from the valve causes the seat to slowly sink. To prevent this manufacturers harden the exhaust seat. I bet yours is already hardened. It was common on all hard working engines even "back in the day". Not all older engines need it but it is there on all modern unleaded motors. Most re builders like to be sure and put in hardened seats on engines without them as a precaution, because unleaded fuel can accelerate this wear on the exhaust seat.There are a lot of people going either way on this. I am old school, I would not assemble a motor without hardened exhaust seats. It certainly will not hurt. Stainless valves are a nice high quality addition to the valve train. Modern stainless valves are lighter and stronger.

got my valve (ford flathead tool) and damn if it did not bring back memories of working on the old flatheads............... and it worked all ex valves out...

is there a tool that i need to get to get the guides out? or leave them for the machine shop, will use this tool ONCE????
Definitely leave the guides to the shop. I bet the block exhaust guides are fine. It probably only needs intake guides. The machine shop needs to check them before replacement.

not even going to mess with the water pump just get a new one pulley and all
You are a wise man!

when a block and or head "dipped" and cleaned what is the process, never seen it done?
like i said lots of question
There are a few ways they do it depending on there equipment. The most common is a Tank that captures the block on a table and rotates it as it is sprayed with hot caustic solution. I have also used a "bead"type rotating machine that literally blasts it clean then shakes it out. I would ask to see the shop. A tour would be very informative I am sure. I loved working in the machine shop and, I still love returning to them!

[LarrBeard]

You're only going to do this once, and the frustration of having to redo something will far outweigh the money you saved.

Just remember; CHinese and CHeap start the same way ....

Go with known good stuff - even good quality spark plugs can surprise you, can't they?

[pelago]

Was able to find original seat cushions... Both sets 20.00

5013 5014 5015
now to remember the
lacing for the grommets on top and bottom

[bmorgil]

Amy just posted all three US military manuals for the M38A1 in Tech.

[gmwillys]

Good deal! Thank you for sharing.

[TJones]

Pelago,
Did you figure out if you need this radiator I have, I have it on Willys for Sale and somebody is calling me about it.
If you want it I will give it to you and you just pay to ship it to N.C., maybe $30-$35.00 let me know.
If you have a good radiator shop in town they may be able to make the changes you need to make it fit your M38A1 without to much trouble.
Like I said it has been completely gone through and tested, I sent it over to get checked out before I got the CRAZY idea of getting an aluminum radiator:confused:.





50295030503150325033

[pelago]

CARB??
My rebuilt seems to weep along top gasket, and always afraid of fire, the pot metal that it is made of seems resistant to tighten over tighten and there go the threads. that is the case for the one i have and wonder if it is a waste of time to attempt to get repair for the threads (insert kit) to rebuild threads for i believe 10/24 threads???

[pelago]

Pelago,
Did you figure out if you need this radiator I have, I have it on Willys for Sale and somebody is calling me about it.
If you want it I will give it to you and you just pay to ship it to N.C., maybe $30-$35.00 let me know.
If you have a good radiator shop in town they may be able to make the changes you need to make it fit your M38A1 without to much trouble.
Like I said it has been completely gone through and tested, I sent it over to get checked out before I got the CRAZY idea of getting an aluminum radiator:confused:.





50295030503150325033

think it would be difficult the input line for mine is on bottome left

[pelago]

Emergency brake,
to get all the parts is kinda pricey
however i have all the pieces and parts from a m38, can all this be put on the m38a1, looks like only one piece has to be swapped from transfer case to the m38a1

50395040

[bmorgil]

Man it looks like some of the same stuff however, the M38 uses a smaller width drum and shoe than the M38A1. There are some other differences in the hardware. The M38 uses the same stuff as all the civilian Jeeps using the internal mechanical brake. The M38A1 uses a similar but bigger in general, setup.

[pelago]

man it looks like some of the same stuff however, the m38 uses a smaller width drum and shoe than the m38a1. There are some other differences in the hardware. The m38 uses the same stuff as all the civilian jeeps using the internal mechanical brake. The m38a1 uses a similar but bigger in general, setup.


i have all the pieces and parts for the civilian brake,,, seems all i have to do is mount one piece from the parts to the m38a1. Cost of the new parts to create a e brake is close to 500.00

[bmorgil]

The smaller brake should bolt right up to the transfer case. The only difference might be in the way the lever to set it hooks up. It would be hard to tell it from the M38A1 brake.

[pelago]

Was refering to the that does not use the handle but the one uses cable all i see is one piece that has to transfer to the transfer case and that is item 1 I got all the pieces and parts, hell of a lot better than another 500

5041

[bmorgil]

On the cable style M38 Item 1 goes over a pivot stud on the bottom of the transfer case. The stud points straight down. Item 1 pivots forward and back parallel to the frame.

Are you going to be able to hook up your M38A1 hand brake lever rod to the M38 cable style brake? The cable on the M38 pulls the lever (Item 1) from the bottom of the transfer case towards the front of the Jeep. On the M38A1 isn't the lever between the seats and hooked with a rod down to the transfer case? I thought the lever pulls a rod almost straight up from the transfer case.

[gmwillys]

The civilian/M38 has the cane handle mounted in the dash. This mechanism pulls the brake actuator at the park brake forward to set the brake. The M38A1 utilizes the actuator handle between the seats. This works by pulling the mechanism upward to set the brake. Both styles could be installed on either Jeeps, but the way the 38 is set up, you can not use your handle between the seats to operate. I would check with 1/4 ton and military.com, but call them directly to ask if they have any salvaged parts to save some dough.

[bmorgil]

Have you checked here? https://midwestmilitary.com/midwestmilitary/m38a1p12.html

[pelago]

NO and actually never been on this site? bookmarked it.

but to gett all the pieces and parts is damn near five hundred bucks and i got all the other pieces and parts Minus shoes

oh yeah Magoo will be running in his first parade, the Veterans day Parade in jacksonville nc 9 nov

[pelago]

Was asked by the parade folks to provide a narrative?
Came up with this,
comments????
This is a 1952 m38a1 willys jeep. This particular jeep was in fact made in 1952
this jeep was used in korea and southeast asia (vietnam war). The united states marine corps
used this jeep until the sixties, during the 3 1/2 year restoration, i found original
tactical markings that identified this jeep as belonging to the 3rd battalion, of the
fifth marine regiment, 1st marine division. The us marines always got a big
bang out of each dollar and this jeep probably saw service in vietnam. This restoration
began in may of 2016, it was a rusty hulk. The engine turned over using a wrench
to do so. The jeep was taken down the frame and all components sand blasted and restored.
Total suspension rebuild, total body rebuild and same with motor (all four cylinders)
i recreated all tactical markiings from the period, there are a few things left to complete, but that
is for next summer

[bmorgil]

I absolutely love running my Jeep in the parades!

WHAT GEAR DID YOU STAY WITH?? LOTS OF STOP AND GO I WAS TOLD,,, ROUTE ABOUT 1 MILE

[bmorgil]

I like your narrative. I am very interested in the Vietnam war. I like the way you tie in the history.

[pelago]

i like your narrative. I am very interested in the vietnam war. I like the way you tie in the history.



not going to get into it now but i drove one of these into the south china sea in '65, far as i know it is still there

[bmorgil]

Thank God for you and the history you possess! My imagination is running wild. I am glad you lived to tell!

[bmorgil]

"WHAT GEAR DID YOU STAY WITH?? LOTS OF STOP AND GO I WAS TOLD,,, ROUTE ABOUT 1 MILE"

I usually go to 4 wheel low and 1st or second gear depending on the speed. Usually first gear high range has me into the clutch a lot.

[LarrBeard]

"WHAT GEAR DID YOU STAY WITH?? LOTS OF STOP AND GO I WAS TOLD,,, ROUTE ABOUT 1 MILE"

I usually go to 4 wheel low and 1st or second gear depending on the speed. Usually first gear high range has me into the clutch a lot.

Let's hope he doesn't need to prop open the hood with a coffee cup...

NO, WILL JUST VAE SOME BIKINI CLAD GAL RUN IN FRONT OF JEEP[ WITH WATER

[bmorgil]

HA! LarryBeard! Thank God for your coffee cup! Got that all figured out now, cool running's.

I posted this in the tech section. Here is a great way to find out your speeds. My CJ3A crawls at 1.6 mph at 700 rpm in low range first gear. Multiply the transfer case gear you are in times the transmission ratio you are in. Use this number as the transmission number.

https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator

T90 Transmission Ratios:
First 2.798 to 1
Second 1.551 to 1
Third 1.000 to 1
Reverse 3.798 to 1

Dana 18 Transfer Case:
High 1.00 to 1
Low 2.46 to 1

CJ3A Rear Axle ratio:
5.38

[pelago]

Just for the heck of it, i measured the ohmic value of the spark plugs, two bad ones had resistance but much less than the good ones? what is the correct value of the restive plugs used on these motors

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/replacement-spark-plug-24-volt-fits-50-66-m38-m38a1

5048

[bmorgil]

Maybe email the manufacturer for that info. I think anything more than 5000 ohms is too high for modern ignition systems. I am sure a points type standard (Not High Energy) ignition would need much less resistance. It is a voltage issue. The higher the secondary voltage the higher the resistance.

[LarrBeard]

Check leakage resistance from center to shell. I'd suspect leakage or breakdown more than an open.

(A multimeter may not read high enough to give a good answer and I don't know anyone who has a Megger any more ...)

[pelago]

I bought these gizmos from Kaiser to go on the base of clutch and brake pedal
did not even fit
china??

50635062

and i have the exhaust kit from kaiser and will probably have to take to a muffler shop to have it modified, 3/4" away from clutch/brake linkage assembly,,, dont like that

50645065

dont get me wrong. Kaiser been real good to me and if i have a problem they take care of it, but one has to wonder if someone there has actually fitted some of this stuff to a jeep??

[bmorgil]

Wow, on my 3A those parts were darn near perfect. I wonder if anyone is having trouble with a 3B and those parts?

[pelago]

ANYONE HAVE ANY EARTHLY IDEA WHERE CN LOCTE ALL THE PIECES AND PRTS FOR A VRC-34.
Hr transceiver?

https://olive-drab.com/od_electronics_angrc9.php

[gmwillys]

Check out eBay or Google vrc_34.

[LarrBeard]

ANYONE HAVE ANY EARTHLY IDEA WHERE CN LOCTE ALL THE PIECES AND PRTS FOR A VRC-34.
Hr transceiver?

https://olive-drab.com/od_electronics_angrc9.php

Yep ...

And we thought Jeep parts were expensive. I'd bet shipping on the Telefunken unit will be a bit spicy ....


AN/GRC-9

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RECEIVER-TRANSMITTER-RT-77-GRC-9-NEW-MADE-IN-GERMANY-BY-TELEFUNKEN/173856280577?hash=item287aa45001:g:ZvcAAOSwJvVcTck N


https://www.ebay.com/itm/GRC-9-SET/113844808773?hash=item1a81adec45:g:3SkAAOSwVG9dBQw q

https://www.ebay.com/itm/U-S-ARMY-RADIO-RECEIVER-AND-TRANSMITTER-RT-77-GRC-9-SIGNAL-CORPS/123950631162?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.S EED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3Da0672 cb048314cc2ad0e8c4ec311ba93%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D 2%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D173856280577%26itm%3D1239506311 62%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2334524&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042


AN/GRC-10

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-AN-GRC-10-Vietnam-Era-Military-Radio-Set-not-vrc/133210727917?hash=item1f03fa65ed:g:h~8AAOSw509drgN c

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AN-GRC-10-Military-Radio-Set-Complete-Set-and-it-turns-on-no-antenna-or-mic/283654563524?hash=item420b2126c4:g:7nUAAOSwh~pds8G n



Nothing worthwhile for VRC-12/RT-524/VRC-47

[gmwillys]

$1,200 looks to be an alright price for what you are getting.....But $400 for shipping. Better be delivered by dancing girls.

[LarrBeard]

$1,200 looks to be an alright price for what you are getting.....But $400 for shipping. Better be delivered by dancing girls.

The dern thing weighs almost as much as a bare block, hence the term "boat anchor" radio.

[pelago]

a question.
would a leak in the vacum side of a fuel pump, (intake from gas tank) cause a air bubble or disturb the flow to carb? yesterday the motor started "loping" at 45mph, up and down up and down. backed off a bit and it stopped.
pulled in garage thinking that float had issues, shut it off and went inside. this am had considerable gas puddle on floor, tightened the offending joint (fuel line to rubber line that goes into pump) dried off and restarted motor, backed out of garage and is in driveway, no leak spotted? this is another kaiser willy rubber line with ameridan threads and metric wrench size???

[LarrBeard]

a question. would a leak in the vacum side of a fuel pump, (intake from gas tank) cause a air bubble or disturb the flow to carb?

It probably could. Now that things are tight, see if it happens again. I am always suspicious of coincidences; if A and B happen at the same time - and haven't happened before - there is a good chance that they are connected to one another.

[bmorgil]

Definitely could cause it. "Up and down" sure sounds like lean then back and lean and back. A leak on the suction side could cause more than a bubble. The pump could keep loosing prime. I agree with Larry, take it for a spin. I bet you fixed it.

[pelago]

"pump could keep loosing prime" while driving it it sure seemed a fuel issue, up and down up and down, like running out of fuel,,, i never thought of pump losing prime, but if it sucking air???? who knows, might have to ask the shadow

here is the culprit i got this kit from kaiser and the one that leaks is the 8" rubber hose that connects the fuel line to the pump, have to use a metric wrench to hold it and metric to tighten fitting that tells me orient, might have to go the same guy that built my oil line also from kaiser it leaked and actually separated, sure glad it did not separate while driving in as much as it was net to oil pump, been a hell of a fix, and could have blown motor.......MADE IN ORIENT IS STAYS ON THE SHELF, AINT BUYING IT

This might also answer the idle question, been driving me nuts set lean/rich and idle and five minutes later is is all over the place.. only way i found it was by accident, filled tank all way and even had gas in the neck and that was physically higher than the leak area so it leaked...............................

[pelago]

might have already seen this site, but on chance have not, worth reading
http://m38a1.com/Resources/history.htm

[gmwillys]

Foreign parts. You get what you pay for. A few dollars more, and no problems.

Our local Veterans Museum has some good examples of the early Jeeps. The first picture is of a Bantam BR 60. The second is the Willys MA. The third is the Ford Pygmy. The fourth is a Humvee prototype. The last is the seep.

[pelago]

never drove anything but a m38a1, mighty mite (these were worthless) and the M151, and we had the gamma goat, another strange vehicle, one of the best ones was the (can not remember the name, but had almost a lawnmower ingine and was just platform, but we had recoiless rifles on them and machine guns and used them to haul ammo, but damn can t remember the name


cool photos

[bmorgil]

I am loving all this history! I think they had one of those "platform" vehicles at the Toledo Jeep Fest inside near LarrBeard's truck. It had what looked like a small engine mounted under a platform. It was shown as very rare. Maybe LarrBeard has a picture of it.

Speaking of your experiences, did you see the article in this months American Rifleman on the The M1903A1/UNERTL USMC Sniper Rifle? Great article. I bet you have some experience with those rifles Ira! I think you have a few. https://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/2019/10/24/the-m1903a1unertl-usmc-sniper-rifle/

I am growing nervous about all the rubber lines on my CJ. They all came from KW.

[pelago]

I am loving all this history! I think they had one of those "platform" vehicles at the Toledo Jeep Fest inside near LarrBeard's truck. It had what looked like a small engine mounted under a platform. It was shown as very rare. Maybe LarrBeard has a picture of it.

Speaking of your experiences, did you see the article in this months American Rifleman on the The M1903A1/UNERTL USMC Sniper Rifle? Great article. I bet you have some experience with those rifles Ira! I think you have a few. https://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/2019/10/24/the-m1903a1unertl-usmc-sniper-rifle/

I am growing nervous about all the rubber lines on my CJ. They all came from KW.

I actually have one of these rifles mine has the 8pwr scope and started out life as a 1929 national match 1903, Philadelphia naval shipyard gunsmiths turned them into the 1941 USMC sniper rifle, actually that photo was from tarawa, i shot mine in the inaugural national sniper matdh an got a silver, knocked one out of X ring at 600 yards
also have a 1903A4. dont worry about rubber until you see a leak

[pelago]

https://www.ebay.com/i/283654563524?_trksid=p11401.c100711.m5036&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1% 26asc%3D20170110121435%26meid%3D287a0059918c4016ba 99d8f254c60aa8%26pid%3D100711%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%2 6b%3D1%26sd%3D283654563524%26itm%3D283654563524%26 pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D11401&ul_noapp=true

but wouldnt this be slick............................................. ..

[LarrBeard]

That is the whole thing, from the shock mounts, cables, power supply stuff and it looks like even parts of a remote control and maybe an interphone. Then you need a full time tech to maintain it .....

But - yeah - it's neat .

[pelago]

That is the whole thing, from the shock mounts, cables, power supply stuff and it looks like even parts of a remote control and maybe an interphone. Then you need a full time tech to maintain it .....

But - yeah - it's neat .

but that is what i did in USMC 2861 senior tech last ten years

[bmorgil]

It sounds like you definitely need that equipment. Very cool setup that is for sure!

[pelago]

darn thing still loping!!!!
fuel flow to carb solid, fuel to carb is good thru the pump. only thing it can be is stuck float?? or sticky float?? i think

[gmwillys]

If it were a stuck float, it would generally stuck open. This would cause the carb to flood, due to the supply of fuel not being shut off to the fuel bowl. A rare possibility would be that the needle and seat are sticking closed. This would cause a fuel starvation problem instead of surge. The next thing to check would be the accelerator pump,(diaphragm) for damage, or plugged.

The platform truck is the M274 Mechanical Mule.

[bmorgil]

It sure sounds like its going lean. If your sure the fuel pump is up to spec, I wonder if it picked up some dirt? It would be odd that the float suddenly went off on you. I thought it was running well after the new plugs. If the float was suddenly soaking up or filling up with fuel, it would get heavy and flood over. It would be odd to suddenly go lean. Stranger things have happened however! Are you confident the metering rod is functioning correctly? That controls the mid range to full load fuel. On my carb it is a manual set up. I think you might have a vacuum set up. LarrBeard has gone through his YF carb. I think that is what you have. He can help here I'm sure.

[TJones]

Has anyone thought maybe it could be vapor locking?
Just throwing it out there.

[bmorgil]

It sure could be. I Think Ira has the original fuel line setup. It routes the line fairly well. It was running well and then started acting up on him.

[TJones]

It sure could be. I Think Ira has the original fuel line setup. It routes the line fairly well. It was running well and then started acting up on him.




If it is at all close to the exhaust it could very well be heating the line up enough to vaporize the fuel and cause a vapor lock, I would also check the vent in the tank and the fuel cap as well.

Just thinking out loud I guess.

[gmwillys]

The stock routing goes across the body to the passenger side frame. From there it travels to the front crossmember, and hangs a left. At the driver's side the fuel line hooks into a shut off, then to the fuel pump. The fuel supply doesn't come close to the exhaust outlet.

[LarrBeard]

darn thing still loping!!!!
fuel flow to carb solid, fuel to carb is good thru the pump. only thing it can be is stuck float?? or sticky float?? i think

Did you add a fuel filter to the setup? All of the rebuild dirt may have finally accumulated in there.

Oh, by the way - tell us about Hank. We've not seen or heard from him for a while. How is that baby doing?

[pelago]

did you add a fuel filter to the setup? All of the rebuild dirt may have finally accumulated in there.

Oh, by the way - tell us about hank. We've not seen or heard from him for a while. How is that baby doing?

turns out imay have caused this, gasket leak plagued me for longest time and i made a new gasket for carb and use a sealant, the sealant is beleived t have broken loose?? Or somehow affected the float,, idles great, can ramp up in drive but drive it and soon it will start loping bad

[pelago]

From middle of may, 2016 to today

5125 5126 5127 5128

broke down and ordered a new carb, the original one has problems, no way can tighten the top on it, the threads are stripped, going to get a helicoil kit 10/24 to re thread it. 29.00 comes with coils, taps and die and tool to install. if this works then i will send it in for rebuild (factory rebuild).... if i can not repair threads then only out 29.00

here is new one
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/category/fuel/carburetors-kits/new-replacement-solex-carburetor-fits-53-71-cj-3b-5-m38a1-with-4-134-f-engine

got the adapter for air cleaner also

[pelago]

wHAT A DIFFERENCE THIS NEW CARB MADE......
Really quite amazing, still plan on heli coil repair to the original carb, once i have good threads am going to send it in for "SHOWROOM QUALITY" repair/rebuild from Kaiser.
only thing that pissed me off today was the fact that the darn valve cover gasket gave up the ghost

[bmorgil]

Use a Fel-Pro on the valve cover. VS 6617 C

[pelago]

Use a Fel-Pro on the valve cover. VS 6617 C

actually did just that, cut new one and lused some sealant to tac it to the thick cork one already there and down, put valve cover back on and no leak

[pelago]

holy speedometer batman.. Said what the hell took it out on main highway NC24 and opened it up. now my speedometer only goes to 60mph.. i pinned it?? Yaeah pinned the sucker, ran smooth no vibrations, no noises (to speak of) oil pressure great, temp 170, battery indicator in the green solid. Did I stay there, hell not, and that probably will be my only time at 60mph in a open jeep. really not that comfortable or else i am a big chicken, someof both maybe. one thing i liked is at lower speeds could actually let go of steering wheel and it tracked

that new carb, wow great investment

[LarrBeard]

really not that comfortable or else i am a big chicken, someof both maybe.

We're also getting smarter as we get older... take credit for that too.

It's nice when you invest in something and you get an immediate and spectacular payoff from it. Congratulations.

Tell us about Hank .... is he Jeep broken yet?

[pelago]

its Jake and he is a wild child, not jeep broken yet, but he gets in it in garage and tells me what to do, soon will get a harness and that will only give him back seat mobility
his favorite position

5144

[gmwillys]

Good boy! He's getting big.

[bmorgil]

Did I stay there, hell not, and that probably will be my only time at 60mph in a open jeep. really not that comfortable or else i am a big chicken, someof both maybe.

Just think of how much you know about those brakes being able to slow you down quickly from 60. That will keep you honest!

[LarrBeard]

Oops, Jake.

And I like that position too, zzzzzzzz.

[pelago]

since i did a unorthodox adj by disconnecting the drum from axle i could actually feel the excentric on the shoe and was able to really adjust them and they do work

[pelago]

I am now admitting to a theft, 1966 Maj Gen Lew Walt parked his jeep near my bunker, i stole his placcard 2 stars II MEF on a red plastic placard to go on jeep bumper, mayb put it on for parade???

[gmwillys]

Mount the placard, I doubt the Major General is still looking for it.

[LarrBeard]

I am now admitting to a theft, 1966 Maj Gen Lew Walt parked his jeep near my bunker, i stole his placcard 2 stars II MEF on a red plastic placard to go on jeep bumper, mayb put it on for parade???

Yes, it goes in the parade!

[pelago]

just took Mr Magoo to Cliffs and hd a comprehensive lube and grease done. front differential was quite low and the transmission and transfer case was low. all good now, i just can not lay under the darn thing and try to pour stuff in where it is supposed to go without having i t ll over the floor
good to go, and was quieter driving. Glad that i took the time to get it right

[LarrBeard]

just took Mr Magoo to Cliffs and hd a comprehensive lube and grease done. front differential was quite low and the transmission and transfer case was low. all good now, i just can not lay under the darn thing and try to pour stuff in where it is supposed to go without having i t ll over the floor good to go, and was quieter driving. Glad that I took the time to get it right

My guy likes to do an all round lube on the truck; he gets to complain about those "45 Zerk fittings" and can tell stories for another year. Don't be surprised if Magoo throws some lube out of places - Jeeps tend to decide how much lube they want regardless of what the book says.

When is the parade? Try to get us a picture or two - with the 2-Star Placard!

[pelago]

Mr Magoo in line for the Jacksonville NC Veterans day parade, was 34 or do degrees when i went to start, sort of reluctant to start but it did start let him warm up some

5146

[LarrBeard]

Mr Magoo in line for the Jacksonville NC Veterans day parade, was 34 or do degrees when i went to start, sort of reluctant to start but it did start let him warm up some

5146

Considering where Magoo was a year ago - a great year of progress. It was about 28 here this morning and I didn't want to start either.

Thanks for going places I didn't get sent to - and sure as He## didn't want to get close to.

Have a good Veterans Day