well, the darn thing is out

[gmwillys]

Thank you to all Veterans!

Great job on pulling through the hardships to get Magoo to this point. Mr. Magoo would have been proud to ride shot gun with you on your first parade.

[pelago]

thank you to all veterans!

Great job on pulling through the hardships to get magoo to this point. Mr. Magoo would have been proud to ride shot gun with you on your first parade.

yes he would have... Was thinking that very thought

[pelago]

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to all my usmc friends and brothers, happy 244th birthday

[gmwillys]

Goodnight Chesty, wherever you are. Happy birthday!

[pelago]

Darn, got a issue!!!!
oil pump leaking at gasket.
this is due ro having to remove the oild pump more than once for various reasons while bringing engine up to speed
correct me if i am wrong, been while since i have taken one out (PIA) but they only go back one way, with the offset and particular way the distributor connect to the pump it can only go in one way CORRECT???

[bmorgil]

Correct, it will only go back in one way.

Thank you for your continued service to our Freedom and Country Ira!

[pelago]

Correct, it will only go back in one way.

Thank you for your continued service to our Freedom and Country Ira!

the one and only thing wrong with being old is being old, just wish could still be on active duty, could maybe help some of these wonderful youngsters keep alive, may be old fart but still know how to do it and maybe can teach that

[gmwillys]

I recommend the following book that covers the very topic you are talking about;

https://www.amazon.com/Silence-War-Marine-Young-Marines/dp/1101988185

Maybe there are some avenues that you can share your knowledge? It would be worth looking into.

[pelago]

I recommend the following book that covers the very topic you are talking about;

https://www.amazon.com/Silence-War-Marine-Young-Marines/dp/1101988185

Maybe there are some avenues that you can share your knowledge? It would be worth looking into.

The Marines were offering quick re enlistment bonus and quick process for gulf war '91. i said wth, went for it, got letter saying yeah rpt here for new uniforms and suxh. Then I got a phone call from the Sgt Major of the USMC. he said and i quote"JONES WHAT THE **** ARE YOU TRYING TO DO, YOU AINT GOING ANYWHERE YOU GOT TOO MANY HOLES IN YOU NOW YOU WILL SIT THIS ONE OUT" OH WELL

DIFFERENT NOTE,
Pulled oil pump, made a new gasket, re installed oil pump all done in less than a hour. damn getting good on the 134F

[LarrBeard]

Ira, you were better off sitting that one out …

My ’91 Gulf War story was a bit different. I had been passed over the third time for E9 (Master Chief), my appeals had been ignored, so I had to put in my retirement papers in July of 90. The stuff hit the fan and in September, while I was waiting for the approval of my retirement, I got a call from a detailer at Naval Reserve New Orleans.

The detailer was looking for a Senior Chief to act as the OIC for an advanced electronics depot in the eastern Med area. Now, remember at that time we had no idea what this was going to turn out to be – it could have been a Korea or Viet Nam. I asked the detailer if, once I took this assignment, it would get me my E9 selection. The answer back was “No, this won’t have any impact on your pending retirement, just postpone it”.

My next response was; “Well, I missed all the Viet Nam opportunities in 1967 and I think I’ll just pass this one as well”. About a month later, I got a second call from a LCDR who asked me if I had thought about my answer. “Yes sir, I have and I think it was a good answer. Not me this time.”

My E8 USMC buddy did take a mobilization to Saudi Arabia where he served as a marksmanship instructor for the Saudi army. His comment was “I’d had better luck trying to teach camels to dance…”. He didn’t get E9 out of it either.

[pelago]

Tshe only way to get e9 at the time was to shoot some of the ones on active duty, took me ten years to get 7.. Most of those years it was zero to e7 in my field. Dont know if you know a name norm chandler, full colonel. He alled me and another marine retired and asked if we ould help with marksmanship at the range at lejeune, unofficially and no pay of course. I said why not and did so. Think i helped some

[gmwillys]

I'd love to sit through one of your courses. I'd like to be better than an alright shot.

[bmorgil]

I'd love to sit through one of your courses. I'd like to be better than an alright shot.

Wow would that be cool! A chance to learn from the very best.

[pelago]

2014 the NRA and CMP had the inaugural sniper match.. I used an original 1903A4 sniper rifle, course was ten rounds at three hundred yards target comes up and got 20 seconds to shoot, then goes down for 20 seconds then comes up and this is done for all ten shots
shot a 100 with ten X's
then move to 600 yards and same routine
shot another 100 with ten x's

this is a great OLD rifle pretty damn accurate i used 168grain 3006 match ammo, took the gold medal 1200 competitors
5157

the next year had to shoot team match, i used a original USMC SNIPER RIFLE Philadelphia naval shipyard gun smiths created these mine was based upon a 1929 match 1903 and they added a unertyl 8 power scope, and a "C" stock (pistol grip) i shot a perfect score but my team mate dropped one into the 9 ring at 600 so only got a bronze

[pelago]

back to Mr Magoo, seem to have developed some leaks at the union of u joint and the differential gear oil dripping out of u joint shaft?? seal?? what is best choice for new seals? do not seem tho have good luck with kaiser gaskets?? and the darned transfer case same issue and it has a new kaiser gasket??

[bmorgil]

I loved reading your reply about the match! It fits in great with the American Rifleman story this month about the Springfield sniper rifles. It is amazing what YOU can do with a rifle designed over 100 years ago. I am truly humbled by your skill.

If you are seeing (and smelling) gear lube at the pinion, it is probably the pinon seal. Any good name seal will do. I used a National seal made from Nitrile material. Make sure the yoke does not have a groove worn in it or, has a pitted or galled up seal surface. If it does, I use wear sleeves, a little cheaper than replacing the yoke.

[pelago]

I loved reading your reply about the match! It fits in great with the American Rifleman story this month about the Springfield sniper rifles. It is amazing what YOU can do with a rifle designed over 100 years ago. I am truly humbled by your skill.

If you are seeing (and smelling) gear lube at the pinion, it is probably the pinon seal. Any good name seal will do. I used a National seal made from Nitrile material. Make sure the yoke does not have a groove worn in it or, has a pitted or galled up seal surface. If it does, I use wear sleeves, a little cheaper than replacing the yoke.

will inspect very close,,, what would constitute serious groove or wear??

lotsa stuff in there

5161 5162

[gmwillys]

Pelago,

Remember you just had your Jeep serviced. A Willys will leak until it finds its happy place for fluid levels. If the service station pumped in dope until it was running out the hole, there is probably too much for its liking. Good rule of thumb, stick your finger in the hole, and point down. If the dope is between your nail and first knuckle, you are in range.

A true Craftsman with a rifle, you are.

[LarrBeard]

My introduction to the Sniper Match was in 2015 (I think). I had shot the Hearst Doubles that morning and my partner in that match was shooting with another guy from our group in the Sniper that afternoon. But, while we were cooling down, his Sniper Match Partner called – he had the GI trots and couldn’t get more than a few feet away from the pot.

So, I was drafted to be the substitute – under a different name. Since we had no chance of winning anything, we didn’t worry about it. I’d never shot the particular rifle we were using, but we grabbed those two lousy sandbags we were issued and made a nest; (168 grain Hornady BTHP, 46 grains H4895 – pretty much the standard recipe). I gave my buddy his sighter shots and I rolled over on the gun. Fortunately his eyes and mine focused the same, so we didn’t have to fiddle with the scope.

I stayed on the gun when it came time to shoot for record; my first shot was an 8 out at 9 o’clock. I recall telling myself “You aren’t going to win anything shooting like that”; so I settled down and the next nine shots were all 10’s; all around the clock and not an X in the bunch. I don’t remember the rest of the match, but we didn’t win or embarrass ourselves – even if I did shoot under an alias that day.

Next year, same gun – different partner. We shot well enough to just squeak into a Bronze by three points or so.

The last time I shot the Sniper (same partner as previous year) we were doing very well, and had moved back to 600-yards. Then - I missed a wind change and my partner shot a downwind 7 when he had been shooting 10’s. He couldn’t give me a good call on where the shot broke, and I told him “Aw shux, just shoot it again”. He did and shot another downwind 7. That time he gave me a good call and I told him to hold mid-7 upwind (9-o’clock). He did and it was a downwind tight 9. So, by missing the wind change, I let him drop about 4 to 6 points – and as you know – in that match dropping 4 to 6 points moves you well out of the Bronze into the cotton T-shirt medals.

Life has caught up with me and I haven’t been able to shoot for the last couple of years. Maybe next year…

[bmorgil]

will inspect very close,,, what would constitute serious groove or wear??

lotsa stuff in there

5161 5162

This is a picture of a REAL bad grove. I don't like to see much of a grove at all. Any pits or anything that is other than perfectly smooth, will just cut up the new seal or leak under the lip.

5164

[pelago]

my introduction to the sniper match was in 2015 (i think). I had shot the hearst doubles that morning and my partner in that match was shooting with another guy from our group in the sniper that afternoon. But, while we were cooling down, his sniper match partner called – he had the gi trots and couldn’t get more than a few feet away from the pot.

So, i was drafted to be the substitute – under a different name. Since we had no chance of winning anything, we didn’t worry about it. I’d never shot the particular rifle we were using, but we grabbed those two lousy sandbags we were issued and made a nest; (168 grain hornady bthp, 46 grains h4895 – pretty much the standard recipe). I gave my buddy his sighter shots and i rolled over on the gun. Fortunately his eyes and mine focused the same, so we didn’t have to fiddle with the scope.

I stayed on the gun when it came time to shoot for record; my first shot was an 8 out at 9 o’clock. I recall telling myself “you aren’t going to win anything shooting like that”; so i settled down and the next nine shots were all 10’s; all around the clock and not an x in the bunch. I don’t remember the rest of the match, but we didn’t win or embarrass ourselves – even if i did shoot under an alias that day.

Next year, same gun – different partner. We shot well enough to just squeak into a bronze by three points or so.

The last time i shot the sniper (same partner as previous year) we were doing very well, and had moved back to 600-yards. Then - i missed a wind change and my partner shot a downwind 7 when he had been shooting 10’s. He couldn’t give me a good call on where the shot broke, and i told him “aw shux, just shoot it again”. He did and shot another downwind 7. That time he gave me a good call and i told him to hold mid-7 upwind (9-o’clock). He did and it was a downwind tight 9. So, by missing the wind change, i let him drop about 4 to 6 points – and as you know – in that match dropping 4 to 6 points moves you well out of the bronze into the cotton t-shirt medals.

Life has caught up with me and i haven’t been able to shoot for the last couple of years. Maybe next year…

were you there when they suspended the matches and shut range down so i could get medevaced?? During high power??

[pelago]

NOW THAT IS A GROOVE,,, Just went under Magoo and scoped it out, rear differential the big gasket on the rear seems suspect there is always a drop hanging ready to drop, and that does not seem to be a huge issue
xfer case rear yoke to back wheel has constant drip, think it is bad, could possibley be the big gasket on the transfer case itself, kinda wet, rear yoke that goes in seems dry
miight hold off on this and scrub under the jeep woith cleaner and water, drive it bit then park it and look see...... tracking down leaks is a pain in the ***,,, all i can think of is to clean it with cleaner, get it dry park it on clean floor and let it drip, anyone else go a magical way to do it.. some might say a bottle of gear oil easier than tearing it apart but wth??

here are two rifles, the 1941 (original) is a shooter, sand bag hold it holds X ring right on the money
the other one i used this model while part of landing force staff in Beirut, since we did not follow or were in ground force command we were told that we had free hand and my colonel wante som hez's to disappear, i did turned on head into a canoe but wont show that photo, but he went to see his 72 virgins (all had the likeness of Yasif Arrafat

now if you are serious the last photo is a dead on at 1000 yard 1903 and a dead on 100 yard 22 the o3 with big *** barell was my grand dads

5165 5166 5167

[LarrBeard]

were you there when they suspended the matches and shut range down so i could get medevaced?? During high power??

The "scoop" on the line was that some guy in the pits got shot, he was bleeding all over the place and he had to be MedEvaced out by helicopter.

If I recall, it was just some meanness or old shrapnel working its way out and you were back by the end of the day.

[LarrBeard]

Put it over a piece of cardboard. Its easier to throw away the cardboard than clean the floor. Ask me how I know ...

[bmorgil]

I like your thought process. Once you get it cleaned off it should be easier to tell where its coming from.

If you go after the rear diff cover, use the Fel-Pro gasket Part # RDS 6095-1. On the transfer case, they are notorious for leaks in several places. There are many thru bolts into the lube that must be sealed, shift rail seals that are tricky to install, and right were you are talking about, the output shim pack. The rear cap has shims under it to set the end play on the bearings. In a perfect world they seal themselves. I lightly spray everyone of the shims on both sides with Permatex High-Tack, prior to the final install after determining end play. I think they eventually leak if you don't.

I love those rifles! Man they look perfect setting on that M38A1.

[pelago]

The "scoop" on the line was that some guy in the pits got shot, he was bleeding all over the place and he had to be MedEvaced out by helicopter.

If I recall, it was just some meanness or old shrapnel working its way out and you were back by the end of the day.
YEAH, a piece came out and took the tibial artery with it, blood shot out from underneath the overhead sitting on the bench out sbout 4 foot and first hit the tsrget, i said holy ****, and guy next to me a buck sgt in army said same thing, he had a tourniquet with him (guess that is standard now) and started to administer first aid, but could not get blood to stop, then pit director came over and got on phone, the rest of story i did not hear, but i do know the colonel did not want me on a bumpy ambulance ride nd ordered the place **** down and helo to come in. got in helo and they cut my damn brand new pants off,
PHOTO OF MY SORRY REAR END GETTING LOADED AT VIALE RANGE AT THE NATIONALS


5169

[pelago]

I like your thought process. Once you get it cleaned off it should be easier to tell where its coming from.

If you go after the rear diff cover, use the Fel-Pro gasket Part # RDS 6095-1. On the transfer case, they are notorious for leaks in several places. There are many thru bolts into the lube that must be sealed, shift rail seals that are tricky to install, and right were you are talking about, the output shim pack. The rear cap has shims under it to set the end play on the bearings. In a perfect world they seal themselves. I lightly spray everyone of the shims on both sides with Permatex High-Tack, prior to the final install after determining end play. I think they eventually leak if you don't.

I love those rifles! Man they look perfect setting on that M38A1.



Tese guys do make a lot of gaskets dont they... they the best ones for my motor rebuild of the 134f i am doing?

[pelago]

new CARB, Went round and round with Kaiser on this carb, when i got it there was absolutely no way to set up or attach a independent cable for choke and throttle, and being in as much as Magoo sometimes is cold hearted starting i felt i needed the choke. contacted Kaiser and it took agout 8 emails with photos to prove that the carb that i got did not have the fittings to attach cable for choke or throttle. They kept asking for this phot and fotr that photo, finally i said how many pictures do you want have sent photos with the empty spots where there is supposed to be linkage attachements, finally they just sent me a new carb and told me to replace what i have and return it pre paid. Well the carb came in okay and sure enough there were the missing pieces and parts that i needed, replace carb, hell no, take off valve cover and have to make a new gasket, not going to happen. 1 5/16 wrench and ten minutes it was done, their new carb is pristine but missing one cable clam[ and two 5/16 small bolts an one 5/16 nut
SOMETIMES YOU JUST GOT TO STICK TO YOUR GUNS, THIS IS THE ONLY TIME I HAVE EVER HAD A ISSUE WITH KAISER, 99.9% OF TIME NOT A PROBLEM BUT THIS SORT OF SEEMED TO CRAWL BUT ALL IS GOOD AND DAMN IF MAGOO DONT RUN GREAT NOW THAT IT BREATHES

51705171 51725173

[pelago]

Put it over a piece of cardboard. Its easier to throw away the cardboard than clean the floor. Ask me how I know ...



cleaned motor, trans, transfer case, and rear end, used two cans of gunk, waited 20 minuts then hit it with a hose, then drove around block to dry off (cold, I mean REALLY COLD) then pulled in to the garage and floor is clean as i could get using acetone and a rag, HOWEVER, JUST HAPPENED TO HAVE TWO 24"x24" PIECES OF CLEAN CARDBOARD Layed them out under the whole mess and will mark them "puddles" manana.... we sha ll see said the blindman

[bmorgil]

Tese guys do make a lot of gaskets dont they... they the best ones for my motor rebuild of the 134f i am doing?

Yes I think so. Here is a link to a 1960 F4-134. https://www.felpro.com/find-my-part/find-my-part-results.html?parttype=&apptype=AUTOMOTIVE&options=1960~Jeep~CJ3&values=1960~Jeep~CJ3 I wasn't sure of your year. An F head is an F head however. I have had a lot of success with Fel-Pro gaskets through the years. Even though I worked for Dana and they owned and I sold Victor Gasket, there were times when the Fel-Pro was preferred. I just think it would be unusual to have a bad result with them. Whatever you do don't take a chance on any other head gasket. There is a lot of reports of bad China import stuff. I got a hold of one for my L134 and checked it out. It is a real good knock off of the Fel-Pro. A fairly cheap lamination however. I have read about failures. The China is not marked anywhere as to where it is made. If you use the Fel-Pro Engine set there is a note that the "Military Rear Main Seal is not included". I am not sure what that means. Maybe gmwillys can help out here. I am not aware of what the "Military Seal" is. If you can use the rubber seal in your block I would use it. It is preferred to the rope seal.

I did have excellent results with the Hard Parts for the motor provided by KW. The Bearings, Rings, Pistons and Valve train parts were top notch. The pistons were Silvolite's and the rings were Hastings.

[pelago]

Yes I think so. Here is a link to a 1960 F4-134. https://www.felpro.com/find-my-part/find-my-part-results.html?parttype=&apptype=AUTOMOTIVE&options=1960~Jeep~CJ3&values=1960~Jeep~CJ3 I wasn't sure of your year. An F head is an F head however. I have had a lot of success with Fel-Pro gaskets through the years. Even though I worked for Dana and they owned and I sold Victor Gasket, there were times when the Fel-Pro was preferred. I just think it would be unusual to have a bad result with them. Whatever you do don't take a chance on any other head gasket. There is a lot of reports of bad China import stuff. I got a hold of one for my L134 and checked it out. It is a real good knock off of the Fel-Pro. A fairly cheap lamination however. I have read about failures. The China is not marked anywhere as to where it is made. If you use the Fel-Pro Engine set there is a note that the "Military Rear Main Seal is not included". I am not sure what that means. Maybe gmwillys can help out here. I am not aware of what the "Military Seal" is. If you can use the rubber seal in your block I would use it. It is preferred to the rope seal.

I did have excellent results with the Hard Parts for the motor provided by KW. The Bearings, Rings, Pistons and Valve train parts were top notch. The pistons were Silvolite's and the rings were Hastings.

since i got the cardboard on the ground and waiting i feel that the yoke is probably cored, who makes the bushings/sleeves for these things?? not going to jump right in and pull them because w whole lot of dollars worth of lube will be lost

[bmorgil]

They are made by National oil seal and Timken Bearing as well as some others. The prices are all over the place. I used Nationals part # 99155. https://www.amazon.com/National-Oil-Seals-99155-Redi-Sleeve/dp/B000C5JND8 These fit the Dana models 25's 27's 30's 44's and 50's. They will save you $20 or so over a new yoke.

[pelago]

coupe of dime size drops that i have no idea???

but have strong suspicion that the yoke from transfer case to rear end is leaking pretty good, gear oil flung around it and very visible, where before i suspected the gasket on big plate what i was seeing was gear wt oil splashed uo into bottom of body and draining down by gravity nmaking it look like it came from somewhere else

also found that the drain plug on the rear end was not all the way in (wasnt loose but had 1- 1 1/2 turn ro shut)

still looking

[LarrBeard]

[QUOTE=pelago;9820]we shall see said the blindman QUOTE]

You are into the second stage of a restoration. You got Magoo to run, but it still needed a little tweaking and you are finding that some of the old pieces that you thought were OK, or you didn't know just what issues to look for, are causing some problems.

I'm not sure everything ever goes away, but after a while we get to the place we can live with it.

The '48 drips here and there, but I put cardboard under the drips and wipe off the splatter and live with it. I’ve learned that blood and oil leaks are similar; it just takes a few drops to get noticed, but it takes a lot more than you’d think to do any harm.

[pelago]

i believe tht the worst one is the one yoke that comes out of xfer case, that gear oil after being spread around makes it look like other stuff leaking,,,, that is probably the one i will do first and then evaluate. and i do believe tht rear mains weeping a bit and i can live with that especially with another motor being rebuilt from ground up. few splotches on floor i can live with, did not re do whole motor, only the exh valves were done completely and it runs just to good, quiet, plenty of get up and go will do 60+ mph (not with me driving it though too damn fast) it just runs so so nice. but the one yoke leaks pretty bad.... I HAVE A NOTHER MOTOR THAT HAS FULL E BRAKE AND A YOKE ON IT.................
and oil is relatively cheap. easier to top it off than tear it apart. but will of course do the following
1. emergency brake
2. fender mounted black out light
3. back seat
4. full set of canvas: top, side panels, doors got a good price for the whole kit and kaboodle all new, bows and all mounting hdw
1405.00

[bmorgil]

If you find the end yoke is worn at the T-Case, either end, it is the same repair sleeve as the pinions. National 99155. They are $19 at Rock Auto.

[pelago]

"T-Case," not sure i unerstand, going out to pull the other yoke of the other transfer case and look at it, and going to try and see if i cant take a photo of the gear oil that got scattered, that would make like a whole lot of things leaking

do the sleeves need to be pressed on?

[bmorgil]

T-case, I was shortening transfer case. I was just saying it's the same sleeve on all the yokes.

They can be pressed on or, tapped on. I prefer a smaller press for the control. I have done it both ways. There are some good video of installation online.

[pelago]

90 WT GEAR OIL ALL OVER BOTTOM

5184

Now i had cleaned this pretty good with gunk and there was hardly any there and drove around block hoping to just warm it up some, but the gear oil is all over the bottom and just kinda splattered all over

not sure how this works, what is the cap looking thing?

5185

here is the yoke that was just remove from the extra transmission and xfer case, did clean it up some, this is the one that has the e brake on it and am hoping to transfer the brake to the jeep later on I can feel grooves in it, not bad, but then again have only seen a photo of a bad one and never held one so i really can not say this is good or bad no experience with it next to it is a new one from kaiser for 49.00 so differende would be 30.00 rock auto to kaiser?

5186 5187

[bmorgil]

The cap is actually a driver. You put the sleeve on the yoke flange down. Then you set the cap over the sleeve and it rests on the flange of the sleeve. Then you tap the sleeve down or, press it down gently. It is literally paper thin. You can remove the flange after you install the sleeve if you clip it first. There are some good instructions online. These are from SKF but they are the same as the National. https://www.skf.com/us/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/installing-skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html

From here that yoke looks pretty good! I don't really see a grove. It needs to be polished. Resist the urge to use a coarse abrasive on the seal surface. The surface is actually ground to a micro finish. To bring it back treat it like you were honing a dull knife back to shave with. Fine paper then just paper, or leather for the final polish will work well. No scratches that you can feel with your fingernail are allowed. In manufacturing, the testing of a seal surface is literally done by dragging a weighted string across the surface. The seal can handle a little bit of wear. It wont work long however if the surface is the least bit rough or, the grove is several thousandths deep. The wear sleeves cost $20.

[pelago]

The cap is actually a driver. You put the sleeve on the yoke flange down. Then you set the cap over the sleeve and it rests on the flange of the sleeve. Then you tap the sleeve down or, press it down gently. It is literally paper thin. You can remove the flange after you install the sleeve if you clip it first. There are some good instructions online. These are from SKF but they are the same as the National. https://www.skf.com/us/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/installing-skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html

From here that yoke looks pretty good! I don't really see a grove. It needs to be polished. Resist the urge to use a coarse abrasive on the seal surface. The surface is actually ground to a micro finish. To bring it back treat it like you were honing a dull knife back to shave with. Fine paper then just paper, or leather for the final polish will work well. No scratches that you can feel with your fingernail are allowed. In manufacturing, the testing of a seal surface is literally done by dragging a weighted string across the surface. The seal can handle a little bit of wear. It wont work long however if the surface is the least bit rough or, the grove is several thousandths deep. The wear sleeves cost $20.

i have a polishing wheel on my stand and have fine polishing compound,, can make it shine, but with the sleeve is that really necessary? but then again can brighten up the sleeve also, but think that this is the culprit for losing gear oil, and that gear oil after being cast far and wide makes for confusing drips, there is a cross member there and it has a good dose of gear oil on the inside and drips down, that also says "CHANGE YOKE". Also have a rather inconsequential leak from rear main, couple of drops and that really does not get me excited, when putting this together i opted out of complete 134f rebuild due to passing compression test. did total exh valve job thought that was prudent in as much as one valve stuck and rusty. even learned how to lap the valves with hand tool.. This motor sure runs good now

CAN ONLY THINK OF ONE THING THAT IS HARDER TO FIND AND THAT IS A LEAK ON A LARGE BOAT, BEEN THERE AND DONE THAT

[bmorgil]

CAN ONLY THINK OF ONE THING THAT IS HARDER TO FIND AND THAT IS A LEAK ON A LARGE BOAT, BEEN THERE AND DONE THAT

You just know LarryBeard is going to have something to say about sinking boats!

The sleeve has the best seal finish possible on it. If you use one you just need to be sure the yoke doesn't have any big protrusions, and you fill any groves or holes. The sleeve is so thin it will take on the shape of the old yoke if you don't clean it up. On the other hand if it shines up, its good to go. No sleeve required.

Usually when you loose the yoke seal it flings the lube 360 degrees. You see it straight up on the floor board. When its coming out of one of parts that aren't rotating it drips down and into the airflow. You then find it everywhere starting behind the leak. If it is all over the floor right above the yoke, my money is on the leak is there. Typically the 18 transfer case can drip from a few spots. Big lube loss however almost always points to a seal.

One thing to keep in mind. The 18 transfer case has a "balancing" lube system. The transmission gear case has a lube hole shared with the transfer case. The level in the transfer case is lower than the level in the transmission. As the transfer case gears rotate, they lift the lube up to the shared lube passage in the transmission. This sort of refills the transmission case. When the transfer case gears stop rotating, the lube drains back from the transmission to the transfer case. So if you drive it and it losses lube from the transfer case, the trans will keep filling it. The transmission will steal a lot of lube from the transfer case if it (the transmission) is leaking. It is a good idea to keep an eye on both levels.

[pelago]

well, it is slinging oil thats for sure
took a closeup of the spare yoke that i have and it is somewhat pitted??, and i can feel a groove, slight but still a groove... stupid question and probably over kill, what would a seal on a new yoke be, a sacrificial surface? maybe?

5196

[bmorgil]

Great picture. I would put a wear sleeve on that yoke no question. Those pits will cut the new seal, in addition to creating a leak path of their own.

On a new yoke the surface should be just right. The sleeve would be overkill. The sleeve does have the better surface finish. I don't think it is sufficiently better to warrant putting a sleeve on a new yoke however.

[gmwillys]

Seal savers or Speedy sleeves, (or at least that's what we called them) have saved many of crank shafts on heavy equipment over the years. They are worth every penny. A lot better then the snake oils that are supposed to soften seals to slow down leaks.

[pelago]

Seal savers or Speedy sleeves, (or at least that's what we called them) have saved many of crank shafts on heavy equipment over the years. They are worth every penny. A lot better then the snake oils that are supposed to soften seals to slow down leaks.

sounds like a plan, and should not be a monumental job, u joint out, yoke out, new seal and sleeved yoke in

[pelago]

seal, went to rock auto and they have a miry d of shaft seals?? which one went to corret motor size and output seal and it came up with 1/2 dozen

[bmorgil]

For a Dana 18, the National 472635 is the oil seal for both input and output. National 99155 is the repair sleeve used.

I am not sure why they came up with so many. It is the same seal from 1941 to 1971. There was a large felt washer jammed behind the yoke between the seal and the yoke. Maybe that is what is affecting the part number? The felt was not always used. I think it was always used in military applications. It was intended to keep muck off of the yoke seal. It is for serious running in the mud. I don't use it on the rebuilds unless it is going in the mud. The felt washer can collect abrasive dirt and since it spins against the seal, it can create heat and wear. You definitely don't need it on a Parade Jeep.

[pelago]

I GOT A GD TICKET Going to auto parts store got stopped by a state guy and he gave me a ticket for "partially obstructed license plate" ME AND MAGOO GOING TO COURT ON THIS ONE, THERE IS NO LICENSE PLATE PLACE TO PUT ONE, SO I AM TAKING MAGOO AND MAKING THIS DAMN COP (KID) SIT IN COURT ALL DAY LONG WHILE I READ A BOOK AN TAKE OUT HEARING AID

[pelago]

Can someone tell me why i can not use this emergency brake on magoo, i got all this stuff, all of it (well need new shoes) but got it all, seems as if all i need is to mount the hand brake cable

5199

[gmwillys]

Here is the solution that we had come up with on the license plate mount in the rear. When being shown, there is a unit cover that affixes to the license plate. Still not absolutely legal because there is no light, but close enough. Make the kid sit all day long. Hopefully they don't go alphabetically. Good Luck!

You can run the CJ style hand brake, as long as you mount the handle to either a angle iron mounted under the dash to secure the handle to. I would be apprehensive to drill into the dash to mount, but it is your rig. Set it up how you want it, we will still admire your ride.

[pelago]

Here is the solution that we had come up with on the license plate mount in the rear. When being shown, there is a unit cover that affixes to the license plate. Still not absolutely legal because there is no light, but close enough. Make the kid sit all day long. Hopefully they don't go alphabetically. Good Luck!

You can run the CJ style hand brake, as long as you mount the handle to either a angle iron mounted under the dash to secure the handle to. I would be apprehensive to drill into the dash to mount, but it is your rig. Set it up how you want it, we will still admire your ride.

the difference in the stock e brake an the one i have is about 500.00 for all the pieces and parts i dont have yeah gonna go with the brake handle mounted with support

[bmorgil]

I cannot believe you got a ticket! This story needs to go in the paper. That is one power hungry cop. Please keep us posted on the court. I have had a run in or two with an out of control cop. It is a shame. I have some very good friends in Law Enforcement. They would never act like that. I would understand if you were in a lower blacked out window suspicious vehicle.

The "hole" in the dash for the Emergency Brake Handle (the cane) is an angled stamping with a large brace behind it that the locking spring and carrier are bolted to (item AE in your photo). The cane handle points up and at the driver at slight angles. The cable runs along the transmission and up the clutch housing to the firewall. It goes through the firewall by the coil on a CJ3A.

You would have to modify the dash or figure out a way to hook up the handle or, a lever of some sort to the cable.

[bmorgil]

This might do it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-924-5617?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAws7uBRAkEiwAMlbZjipHd8nOIBh6iimpSx5L qTOSDnGuG-w0xM5dYAxCCOEofFflKrTvkBoCN5EQAvD_BwE

Bolt it between the seats and run the cable to it.

[pelago]

it just might at that, thanks

burnt out a bulb, these are for the instrment lights and i can get 12v and 6 volt but where in heck 24vdc, bulb has no reference number on it
this size
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/category/electrical/bulbs/speedometer-dash-light-bulb-6-volt-fits-53-71-cj-3b-5-6

[gmwillys]

Swing by your local CAT or any heavy equipment dealer. They should have a supply of 24 volt bulbs.

[LarrBeard]

it just might at that, thanks

burnt out a bulb, these are for the instrment lights and i can get 12v and 6 volt but where in heck 24vdc, bulb has no reference number on it
this size
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/category/electrical/bulbs/speedometer-dash-light-bulb-6-volt-fits-53-71-cj-3b-5-6
I

Check midwes t military

[pelago]

For reference general electric 1829 24volt dc bulbs

[pelago]

SWITCHING PARKING BRAKE FROM M38A1 TO M38 STYLE PARKING BRAKE
taking the yoke housing off i broke the damn thing, the bottom bolt area cracked, but found one to replace it and even with that cost am ahead on dollars by 400.00 and found whole set up on ebay for 150
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Transfercase-Willys-Jeep-CJ2A-CJ3A-Willys-MB-transfer-Case-Drum/123917202322?hash=item1cda0a7392:g:VpIAAOSwrcRdii5 A
sent him a note asking the diameter of output shaft

[bmorgil]

What is your concern on the diameter of the output? Are you thinking the Intermediate shaft? The output on the Dana 18 is the same. The Intermediate shaft varies.

[pelago]

kaiser sells a housing for 3/4" and cautions about it
here is bustd piece and it is for 1 1/4" shaft

5211

[bmorgil]

I just spoke with Jason at KW. The bearing cap they have listed is for the early style band type brake. The intermediate shaft measurement is to indicate the age of the transfer case. The small 3/4" intermediate shaft indicates the earliest style model 18, which used the Band style brake (MB,GPW and early CJ2A). The larger intermediate shafts are used on the newer brake styles. That being said the bearing cap depends on the brake type used. The Band brake uses a unique cap, the Cane style cable through the dash uses a unique cap and the M38A1 uses a unique cap. If you are going to convert to a cable through the dash style, you need the cap used on the late CJ2A and up.The M38A1 cap is specific to the hand brake between the seats.

[pelago]

I really screwed up.... not first time not probably will be the last time either

the housing on the two types of xfer cases just do not match bolt holes, i crawled under with the broken housing and they just do not match, from looking at drawings they look so darn close, but alas i was just wrong.
back to expensive restoration of original e brake........oh well

[bmorgil]

Don't forget about these guy's. https://midwestmilitary.com/midwestmilitary/m38a1p12.html Some good prices maybe.

I know its gonna hurt the budget, but I do like the fact your are restoring it back to stock. I am going to bet it turns out better in the long run. That's a nice M38A1.

[pelago]

BEGRUDGINGLY I HAVE TO AGREE WITH YOU, POCKETBOOK WISE UGH OH WELL going to order a new yoke and the drum for the brakes, since have to take yoke out to eliminate leak and might as well only do it once
went with new flange wth??
drum
seal
additional seal
205.00 us dollars.. but there is a black friday sale and get 10%

i was able to get all the parts and pieces for the choke and throttle (external) and in thiis cold weather full choke starts right up idle a bit high, after a minute go to 1/2 choke and idle down
when warmed up 170 degrees choke off and it just sits there and idles ever so sweet

https://www.facebook.com/ira.r.jones/videos/10220420726857978/

the michrophone on my camera is very very sensitive just turn it down some

too bad cant put a video here??

[LarrBeard]

Looks good, sounds like a Jeep engine ehould!

[pelago]

Looks good, sounds like a Jeep engine ehould!


thank you so much, got to admit am kinda proud of work done

[bmorgil]

BEGRUDGINGLY I HAVE TO AGREE WITH YOU, POCKETBOOK WISE UGH OH WELL going to order a new yoke and the drum for the brakes, since have to take yoke out to eliminate leak and might as well only do it once
went with new flange wth??


Why not, it will save you the time of the sleeve install. They can be a little tricky to install sometimes. I have ruined one in my time!

[gmwillys]

Sounds great!

[pelago]

even though is is thanksgiving (AND I WISH ALL A GREAT ONE) I will take apart the offending Xfer case output today, I had the levels checked and filled recently an as i drove it and then parked it i watched it create a puddle under jeep. Now the puddle is pretty much non existent One of two things is happening, fluid level very low, or leak stopped (dont think so). will take apart and photo it as i go.

when i pull the offending yoke out wonder how much lube will lose? correctly/incorrectly guessing very little in as much as it has passed a lot already

lost, maybe 1/2 cup, maybe a little more

[pelago]

to get the seal out had to remove the output shaft yoke cover, and damn if there were no shims???? now i have two good ones, another that is damaged?? but what does this mean ""Goes between your D18 case housing and the rear output cap to set bearing preload."" what the hell i bearing pre load?

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/rear-output-bearing-shim-pack-fits-41-71-jeep-willys-with-dana-18-transfer-case
N THE DRAWING I DO NOT SEE A GASKET?? DO THE SHIMS ACT AS A GASKET? WOULD THINK ONE IS NEEDED?
5233

AND WHERE DOES THIS GO AND WHAT PURPOSE DOES IT SERVE?

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/output-yoke-felt-dust-seal-fits-41-71-jeep-willys-with-dana-18-transfer-case

THE SPONGE RUBBER PIECE NOT ON DIA GRAM BUT IS ON VIDEO, SO GUESS I WILL PUT IT IN, BOUGHT ONE WHY NOT CAN'T HURT AND THEY SAY TO USE A LITTLE GASKET SEALANT ON SHIMS

[pelago]

Leak
can feel a groove in surface and a lot of pits that been told will tear up seal
5234 523552365237

[pelago]

VERY HARD TO GET A CLEAR PHOTO OF THE SCORED GROOVE IN THIS THING BUT ITS THERE, hard to-imagine that that much lube passed thru this, but while laying and looking at it i saw a rivulet of gear lube pass down thru it to floor
5238 5239

[bmorgil]

to get the seal out had to remove the output shaft yoke cover, and damn if there were no shims???? now i have two good ones, another that is damaged?? but what does this mean ""Goes between your D18 case housing and the rear output cap to set bearing preload."" what the hell i bearing pre load?

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/rear-output-bearing-shim-pack-fits-41-71-jeep-willys-with-dana-18-transfer-case
N THE DRAWING I DO NOT SEE A GASKET?? DO THE SHIMS ACT AS A GASKET? WOULD THINK ONE IS NEEDED?
5233

AND WHERE DOES THIS GO AND WHAT PURPOSE DOES IT SERVE?

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/output-yoke-felt-dust-seal-fits-41-71-jeep-willys-with-dana-18-transfer-case

THE SPONGE RUBBER PIECE NOT ON DIA GRAM BUT IS ON VIDEO, SO GUESS I WILL PUT IT IN, BOUGHT ONE WHY NOT CAN'T HURT AND THEY SAY TO USE A LITTLE GASKET SEALANT ON SHIMS

You found a leak no question about it. The yoke seal surface is shot.

The shims are probably stuck to the cap or the case. Here is a brief video on a rebuild. It does show the shims and cap. The pre load is the distance set from the bearing cap to the case using the shims. The shims are the gasket. They need a thin coat of "Permatex High Tack" both sides.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9G0rGXCE9Po

That felt washer goes beetween the yoke and the seal. I don't use them. They are there for mud and such. A preliminary line of defense.

[pelago]

You found a leak no question about it. The yoke seal surface is shot.

The shims are probably stuck to the cap or the case. Here is a brief video on a rebuild. It does show the shims and cap. The pre load is the distance set from the bearing cap to the case using the shims. The shims are the gasket. They need a thin coat of "Permatex High Tack" both sides.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9G0rGXCE9Po

That felt washer goes beetween the yoke and the seal. I don't use them. They are there for mud and such. A preliminary line of defense.
i thought they might be stuck to either also, but damn, no shim. previous dismantle by who ever either ignored/forgot/didnt care about the shims? but i will re assemble with the three that i have from other transm/xfer case, no shims had to add to lube coming out bottom right bolt? which there always was a drop of oil there
we shall see said the blind man

yeah i watched video, interesting to note that the diagram did not have the felt washer, pieces and parts due saturday fed ex

[bmorgil]

Ira, I am concerned about the shims. We are talking about a lot of thickness. Without the shims, the transfer case would bind up tight on the output bearing and fry it at the very least. I think it would crack the case or cap if it was attempted. I just don't see it going together without them.

[bmorgil]

When you reassemble it, you should have .004" to .008" of end play on the main shaft. You might need to order a shim pack from KW https://www.kaiserwillys.com/rear-output-bearing-shim-pack-fits-41-71-jeep-willys-with-dana-18-transfer-case?gclid=Cj0KCQiAoIPvBRDgARIsAHsCw0974hm8PQwPE6q uLa7c204tjqUkNEf_wK1Uywd4qqE3MAchln3452gaAmCgEALw_ wcB .

If it is too loose it will beat the bearing up. If it is too tight it will burn the bearing up. Do you have a good service manual on the Dana 18?

[bmorgil]

The below is from the Novac Guide. It is pretty good. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transfer-cases/rebuild-guides/dana-18-rebuild-guide

Output Shaft Endplay

dana_18_endplay_checkHold the rear output cap on the rear bearing and measure the gap between the cap and the case with a feeler gauge. Add .010 to the gap thickness to obtain the thickness of the shim pack for the initial setting. (Note that the shims are available in thickness' of .003, .010, and .031.)

Install the initial shim pack and rear cap and tighten the four rear bolts to 30 foot pounds. The output shaft, gear, and bearings assembly must now be moved rearward to seat the rear bearing in the rear cap. The easiest way to do this is to use the end of a block of wood and a hammer and rap the rear cap (not the shaft). The inertia of the impact will seat the rear bearing. Failure to fully seat these bearings is a common occurrence, and stacking an unholy number of shims up to get endplay is not the answer. It may sometimes be necessary to install the yoke, speedo drive spacer, etc. and torque the yoke nut to fully seat this assembly.
Important Considerations for the Novak O-ring Seals

When installing the Novak intermediate shaft, install the leading o-ring after the shaft has entered the rear bore and then apply a coat of grease to ease its installation into its own bore at the front of the transfer case. Install the second o-ring and grease it as well. This is to minimize the risk of damaging the o-ring seal during this installation process.

Install the initial shim pack and rear cap and tighten the four rear bolts to 30 foot pounds. The output shaft, gear, and bearings assembly must now be moved rearward to seat the rear bearing in the rear cap. The easiest way to do this is to use the end of a block of wood and a hammer and rap the rear cap (not the shaft). The inertia of the impact will seat the rear bearing. Failure to fully seat these bearings is a common occurence, and stacking an unholy number of shims up to get endplay is not the answer.

Attach a dial indicator to the case with the contact tip of the instrument on the end of the rear output shaft. Push and pull gently on the shaft by hand while reading the end play on the indicator. (Factory spec for end play is .004 to .008 but a better job results if .002 to .006 is maintained. This is an important adjustment and cannot be done by eye or feel. Add or subtract shims as necessary to obtain the desired end play. Be sure to seat the bearing as outlined previously each time the shim pack is made thicker.

After the proper thickness shim pack has been established, remove the rear cap and shims and apply a thin coat of shellac or sealant spray. Reassemble before the spray dries and torque the bolts (30 ft. lbs.), and recheck end play, which should be the same as before (.002 to .006).

[pelago]

i have no reference material for the xfer case or transmission at all, i do have a complete engine manual and the operations manual (which is just that)

[pelago]

The below is from the Novac Guide. It is pretty good. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transfer-cases/rebuild-guides/dana-18-rebuild-guide

Output Shaft Endplay

dana_18_endplay_checkHold the rear output cap on the rear bearing and measure the gap between the cap and the case with a feeler gauge. Add .010 to the gap thickness to obtain the thickness of the shim pack for the initial setting. (Note that the shims are available in thickness' of .003, .010, and .031.)

Install the initial shim pack and rear cap and tighten the four rear bolts to 30 foot pounds. The output shaft, gear, and bearings assembly must now be moved rearward to seat the rear bearing in the rear cap. The easiest way to do this is to use the end of a block of wood and a hammer and rap the rear cap (not the shaft). The inertia of the impact will seat the rear bearing. Failure to fully seat these bearings is a common occurrence, and stacking an unholy number of shims up to get endplay is not the answer. It may sometimes be necessary to install the yoke, speedo drive spacer, etc. and torque the yoke nut to fully seat this assembly.
Important Considerations for the Novak O-ring Seals

When installing the Novak intermediate shaft, install the leading o-ring after the shaft has entered the rear bore and then apply a coat of grease to ease its installation into its own bore at the front of the transfer case. Install the second o-ring and grease it as well. This is to minimize the risk of damaging the o-ring seal during this installation process.

Install the initial shim pack and rear cap and tighten the four rear bolts to 30 foot pounds. The output shaft, gear, and bearings assembly must now be moved rearward to seat the rear bearing in the rear cap. The easiest way to do this is to use the end of a block of wood and a hammer and rap the rear cap (not the shaft). The inertia of the impact will seat the rear bearing. Failure to fully seat these bearings is a common occurence, and stacking an unholy number of shims up to get endplay is not the answer.

Attach a dial indicator to the case with the contact tip of the instrument on the end of the rear output shaft. Push and pull gently on the shaft by hand while reading the end play on the indicator. (Factory spec for end play is .004 to .008 but a better job results if .002 to .006 is maintained. This is an important adjustment and cannot be done by eye or feel. Add or subtract shims as necessary to obtain the desired end play. Be sure to seat the bearing as outlined previously each time the shim pack is made thicker.

After the proper thickness shim pack has been established, remove the rear cap and shims and apply a thin coat of shellac or sealant spray. Reassemble before the spray dries and torque the bolts (30 ft. lbs.), and recheck end play, which should be the same as before (.002 to .006).


dont suppose that there is a video of this procedure, whew lot to it, i have three shims two thick ones and two thin ones did not measure them

[bmorgil]

It's not as bad as it seems. It is important for the life of the transfer case to get it right.

The Novak Guide here does a good job. https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transfer-cases/rebuild-guides/dana-18-rebuild-guide/

I cut and pasted from there in the previous post. Go to the Output Shaft End Play section. The pictures of the way they measure will tell you a lot. The output bearing has to have a small amount of end play (in and out movement of the output shaft). The cap and the case have the shims between them so you can set the end play. The bearing race can move in and out of the cap and case. The shims harness the movement.

This video does show the procedure somewhat. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3l4my1S5kU8

If you need more I can scan the pages from my service manual for you. The Novak guide is pretty good. I do think the Jeep Universal Service Manual is a very good reference. For what you need to do, I think the Novak guide will help.

[pelago]

feeler gauge between case and housing. .004 went in .005 had to force it in and it really did not go, now i had to put bolts in cap to get it to stay, remember am upside down on this. snugged bolts, not 30lbs but enough to have free (gap) so to speak, .004 was it .004 + .010 = .014 so that is the shim needed, at this stage can not get to bearing would have to remove entire xfer case and am reluctant to do this. hopefully plan on using combined shims to .015 and install with gasket compound between each shim (ever so lkightly but full coat)

[bmorgil]

You shouldn't need to get to the bearing. Assemble it with no sealant on the shims then check the end play like they show in the Novack Guide. When you are confident there is more than .002" and less than .008" of end play, take it apart and put on a very thin coat of sealant. If you can get a spray can of Permatex High Tack it is a good way to insure a good even thin coat. You just shake up the spray can real good then lightly spray one side of the shims, the back of the cap and the case. What ever you use it needs to be very thin and light.

Another good video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OocQ6EtB00g

Go slow on the bolts a little at a time in a cross pattern. As you snug it up check the end play as you go. If it drops below .002" stop tightening and add more shims. Every time end play drops below .002" remember to bump the front output yoke with a good rap an a block of wood. This pushes the bearing back out so you can get another reading. .075" is a common start pack of shims. .014" seems like not enough. You never know however!

[pelago]

since it is on the jeep and all connected in order to get end play down where it has to be i will disconnect the front drive tmrw and then can work it back ad forth. liked the videos and have kept them on file, get spray tmrw and all my pieces and parts show up

[bmorgil]

Let me know how it goes , I'll be standing by.

[bmorgil]

The military manual (TM-8015-2) is posted on this site here.

https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys.com/showthread.php?2279-TM9-8015-2-Power-Train-Body-and-Frame-for-1-4-Ton-4x4-Utility-Truck-M38A1https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys.com/showthread.php?2279-TM9-8015-2-Power-Train-Body-and-Frame-for-1-4-Ton-4x4-Utility-Truck-M38A1

[pelago]

uh oh

the manual and the video say the visible spring inside the seal goes towards the oil?? can not see spring in the seal

[bmorgil]

The lip goes towards the oil. The oil pushes against the lip pushing it down making a better seal. If it was lip out it would be too easy for the oil to leak out.

[pelago]

The lip goes towards the oil.

got it
end play, in my archaic way of measuring and using a new steel 6" steel ruler and a scribe i measured 35th end play and did it many times over and went around multiple times and checked and have a 30th shim so will use only the one shim
???

[bmorgil]

I think you are saying that you will have .005" of end play. That's pretty good.

[pelago]

I think you are saying that you will have .005" of end play. That's pretty good.

am pretty much convinced of that, i ascribed on a brand new ruler in and out and moved it several times. then measured the two marks do not have a guage like in video, probably only time i wold ever use it being 75yrs old
then had to drive 47 miles to find gasket spray and some longer 5/16 bolts for the combination yoke, u joint and brake drum

out in cole garage putting it together now

[pelago]

5262

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER AGAIN
YEAH, 8 BOLT, 4 NUTS, ONE BIG NUT, ONE NEW YOKE, ONE SEAL AND ONE BRAKE DRUM....... Yeah 2 hours most, "BUXX ****"
YOKE AND SEAL, PRETTY STRAIGHTFORWARD. HAD TO CUT A PIECE OF PVC TO DRIVE THE SEAL IN. Try to hang the brake drum, attach "U" joint and hold up shaft with two hands. YEAH RIGHT, Wound up using one lone bolt kinda long to sort of hang the brake drum to the yoke, then wiggle the u joint to alight hole, put two bolts and nuts to hold the damn thing then back out the bolt holding the drum on then put in ll bolts with lok washers.. prayed the shim with gasket seal waited til dry and installed, the the other pieces. started at 2pm, went inside at 9pm with the thing on. Sitting in my family room sort of just doing nothing and then i sat upright and said the GD washer, did i put it in there or not? was so concerned with torque that i felt i had fortotten to put the washer in...............damn............
7 30 am went outside and took it all apart and lo and behold there was the washer right where it was supposed to be. had to redo the brake drum and u joint deal all over again, it is now 10 45 am WAY TOO DARN LONG FOR WHAT SHOULD HAVE BEEN SIMPLE JOB, laying on cold concrete really gorped me up last night. Had to take a 'REAL" pain pill, just could not move. but it is in and now to figure out how to get lube in it. have one empty
squeeze bottle and will try to put a piece of hose on it and get the hose in the hole and add lube

[bmorgil]

I hate that when the thoughts creep in. Well lets hope for no leaks. My brother calls these 15 minute projects. Projects that turn into monumental events!

[pelago]

I hate that when the thoughts creep in. Well lets hope for no leaks. My brother calls these 15 minute projects. Projects that turn into monumental events!

only cut myself once

anyone got a better diagram of the e brake other than what kaiser has, misleading (or not) thought both shoes on outside diagram makes one believe one inside nd one outside?

damn i got the drum on backasswards, damn digram looks like it has open side facing back,, seems to be the drum with all the stuff open to front is a real crud catcher
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpK5V9iTiyM

oh well, crapola guess third time will be the charm

damn diagram infers tha the drum is open facing rear

5263

GOT TO WONDER WHAT ENGINEER SAID LETS MAKE A E BRAKE THAT CATCHES EVERY BIT OF THE MUD, BLOOD AND BEER ON THE ROAD?????

GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

[gmwillys]

That's why most all parking brakes are MIA by the time we get them. The A1 that I did was the first one that was actually functional on any Heep project.

[bmorgil]

It is chapter 6 in the Military Manual. It starts on page 114. https://documentcloud.adobe.com/link/track?uri=urn%3Aaaid%3Ascds%3AUS%3Acc44df5e-b547-48b1-9929-f4861a344c4d If this isn't what you need, maybe I can find something else.

Another source for Military parts from Greece. https://www.military-spareparts.com/

[pelago]

5264

done and for the last time ...this can only be described as a pain in the ***. And still can nt figure out engineers that had a open scoop facing forward for a parking brake

[bmorgil]

I think the hope was the transfer case would block everything? Well it looks like you are almost ready for a test ride.

[pelago]

drove 40 miles, got it good and warmed up highway at 50mph, came back and parked it on a clean garage floor, got one tiny drop from rear main but that does not bother me, and none under the offending pieces and parts, went under neath and found one damp spot on the bottom bolt of the bearing housing, but no drops and all seemed dry

[bmorgil]

You can't get any better than that!

[okiemark]

I hope you didn't leave that nut loose holding the yoke up there.

[pelago]

No, i had taken photo before i put in a lock to hold the thing while i torqued it down, had to stick a crowbar in to keep from moving jeep with torque wrench, once i did that and checked all other bolts i could crawl out from under for the LAST TIME

[bmorgil]

Last time? You mean on this go round I take it! It is a very old Willys, it may need you from time to time!

[pelago]

you must not have read the previous posts, at first i thought i had left washer off, and was worried and took it all apart and lo and behold I HAD PUT THE WASHER ON, , then i discovered that i had actually had the drum on reverse (was convinced due to diagram and logic that no engineer would put big scoop down there to catch all the mud blood and beer from roadway) but sure as hell i had it reversed, so off and on again, all upside down on concrete floor, actually bruised my tail bone.. But drove it for 30 miles to warm things up and can now report no puddle on the garage floor.......washed the undersides with de greaser, drove it, and parked it on clean and mopped garage floor.... no leaks

late entry, laying on cold concrete for as many hours as i did, seems i managed to bruise my tailbone, sure is swollen, and damn if it don't just hurt

IN AN EFFORT TO BE AUTHENTIC RESTORATION.
ALL BLACK OUT LIGHTS NOW WORK AND THEY DID WHEN NEW
5265

another add on question, i get some wheel shimmy at 45 to 50mph, was taught that steering wheel shimmy is almost always balance? true? there is no body shake and i aligned front end, and at 45-50mph if i relax hold on wheel and let it go where it wants to in about a mile it will have drifted to the right

[pelago]

anyone want to comment on these>>
https://www.jegs.com/p/Pertronix/Pertronix-Ignitor-Kits/746414/10002/-1?N=0&Ntk=productgroup&productId=746414&Tab=SKU&make=4294829873&model=4294829525&productId=746414&year=4294829537&productId=746414

[okiemark]

Shimmy can be caused by slack in the steering or somewhere else in the suspension. You can feel it on the steering wheel. Wheel balance as well as bad shocks will cause wheel bounce. Both are annoying.

[bmorgil]

The wheel shimmy could be a few things. Tire balance will cause it. On a front drive/steer axle like the Willys, often it is the steering knuckle pivot bearings. If the preload gets too loose on the pivot bearings or they get worn, it will shimmy. When the bearings get real loose it will shake you right off the highway. A condition referred to as "Death Wobble".

Put the front end up and check everything for looseness. Have someone move the steering wheel while you look for loose parts. If you have an alignment shop close by, often they will provide a check up no charge in the hopes of your business.

I have the Pertronix ignition hidden inside my distributor. I absolutely love it. No points, set the timing once and never touch it again. It starts up nicely.

This is their web site https://pertronix.com/

Isn't your M38A1 24 volt? I am not sure they make a 24 volt version.

[gmwillys]

I'm a gluten for punishment. I like points, mainly because if there is an issue, you can generally fix them with a pocket knife and a match book cover as long as the capacitor isn't crapped out. I keep a supply of points just for emergencies in the tool box under the passenger seat. Better to have and not need, then need and not have. Pelago's A1 is 24 volt, and I'm not aware of any electronic conversion for the 24 volt system.

Death wobble will make you draw up the seat cover. King pin slop is usually a pretty good bet, but as Bmorgil stated, you are better off having a helper wiggle the steering to check for anything loose.

[5JeepsAz]

My mechanic recommended the pertronix ignitor. Being put on now. Will update when I get truck back. I did it because had an old tractor with points and it ran rough. Should have done it on that one, didn't matter because tractor, so I kept to original and didn't follow advice to change. Didn't want to mess around on a daily driver build, so giving it a try on the truck, since a guy I trust said this truck will run better with electronic ignition, which means it's a safety feature. Or so I tell myself. :D

[bmorgil]

I'm a gluten for punishment. I like points, mainly because if there is an issue, you can generally fix them with a pocket knife and a match book cover as long as the capacitor isn't crapped out. I keep a supply of points just for emergencies in the tool box under the passenger seat. Better to have and not need, then need and not have. Pelago's A1 is 24 volt, and I'm not aware of any electronic conversion for the 24 volt system.

Death wobble will make you draw up the seat cover. King pin slop is usually a pretty good bet, but as Bmorgil stated, you are better off having a helper wiggle the steering to check for anything loose.

There is no arguing your point on the "Points" gmwillys! To add to that, in the event of a HPEM the points will keep running! With the Pertronix the whole thing replaces the points plate. You even reuse the screws. I have a points set, set up and ready to screw right in. I can literately change back and forth from electronic to points faster than just replacing the points!

As a young Test Driver, we tested the vehicles pushing them intentionally into "Death Wobble". Knowing it is coming and the fact your on a closed track with lots of help, does not help. You can lose total control.

[LarrBeard]

After all the time you have spent putting Magoo back to USMC condition, ripping out the stock ignition for a Pertronix would be non-reg. That would deserve Office Hours. For a stock F-134 living the good life now - there isn't anything to be gained.

[LarrBeard]

Wheel Shimmy:

When I took the '48 over after my Dad passed away in '64, the front end was a disaster. I replaced several parts, but I never totally eliminated the death wobble. If it happens in traffic, you will need to go do some laundry once you get it settled down.

When we did the restoration, we rebuilt everything up front (it is a 2WD), but I added a Tight Steer tensioner to the steering box.

https://walcks4wd.com/tight-steer-sector-shaft-tensioner-mb-gpw-cj-up-to-1966-dj-2wd-station-wagon-sedan-delivery-models.html

I can honestly say the truck has never driven as well as it does now. I'm not going to claim that the Tight Steer was a cure-all, but every litttle thing helps.

[okiemark]

A knot or bubble on a tire can cause it too. Just from personal experience.

[bmorgil]

One thing to add... On the Pertronix ignition, there is an Ignitor and an Ignitor II. These ignitions use a magnetically switched trigger (not a magnetic pulse). This has a majior advantage and a majior disadvantage. When the trigger is active, it is a mechanical switch so to speak. Because of this if it is lined up to trigger it will energize the coil if the key is on. Just like the points if they are closed, this will fry the module (or the points). The good news is for those of us who use a light bulb or volt meter to time the motor. It acts just like points. Key on rotate the distributor until the light bulb lights.... I do like these things. The Ignitor II has a protective circuit to compensate if you accidentally leave the key on. I still wouldn't do it.

[pelago]

after all the time you have spent putting magoo back to usmc condition, ripping out the stock ignition for a pertronix would be non-reg. That would deserve office hours. For a stock f-134 living the good life now - there isn't anything to be gained.
ya know, got to agree with what you said, it starts quick now, let choke do its thing to warm it up (35degree cold weather starts great) once it has run for a minute ot two i reduce to half choke and then when warmed up reduce to choke off and it quiets down to about 600 rpm smooth running ol motor

[pelago]

SHIMMY
going to check the bar that connects ross to front end to make sure no slap in there and rims and tires all new, that of course does not mean tht one of the rims might have a bump in it, will take the tires and have them balanced

[pelago]

Long ago i reconditioned original wiring, put new connectors on when needed, redid covering, one thing i noticed was that most of the label/numbers where in un readable condition. Using a ohm meter i was able to trace the correct hook up down, and then put on paper tags to allow installation.

tried to find label maker for metal and did not find one that was in any inexpensive mode. so said wth, later on i will come up with something. well later on is now and here is my solution.
roof flashing material, non corrosive and pliable. number and letter punches and fireplace time, coffee and or bourbon nd sometime both
5268 5269

[bmorgil]

Nice and, permanant!

Coffee and bourbon always both!

[pelago]

Nice and, permanant!

Coffee and bourbon always both!



As far as my family goes, this critter is now a family heirloom, not to be parked out in weather, not a daily driver, special occasions, so forth, have a clear commitment from daughter. along with Magoo she gets technical library, all good receipts all sources of parts. and now a wire loom that does make you scratch your head.
canvas, and a seat, maybe a radio 2020 year do that,,, but damn want a trailer.....................................
5270

[pelago]

still tweaking steerimng...........
have just a little steering wheel shimmy at 50mph+ It is not my intention to drive this guy much at that speed, but being a particular nerd about it being right have worked on it some
now the drag link moves at the slightest touch of the wheel (at rest parked) and all have cotter pins in them at rest less than 3/4" off steering wheel turn before any resistance (tires)
but what is next
all seems right and tight
and does this need to take the ross box out? https://www.kaiserwillys.com/tightsteer-sector-shaft-tensioner-fits-50-71-m38-m38a1 ? and would i receive benefit from itmust be doing something correct. reduced the free play considerably, at 50mph released the wheel and it stayed right where it was for over a mile. very little shimmy now

[okiemark]

I like the looks of that. I hope mine looks as good only mine will be civilian.

[bmorgil]

still tweaking steerimng...........
have just a little steering wheel shimmy at 50mph+ It is not my intention to drive this guy much at that speed, but being a particular nerd about it being right have worked on it some
now the drag link moves at the slightest touch of the wheel (at rest parked) and all have cotter pins in them at rest less than 3/4" off steering wheel turn before any resistance (tires)
but what is next
all seems right and tight
and does this need to take the ross box out? https://www.kaiserwillys.com/tightsteer-sector-shaft-tensioner-fits-50-71-m38-m38a1 ? and would i receive benefit from itmust be doing something correct. reduced the free play considerably, at 50mph released the wheel and it stayed right where it was for over a mile. very little shimmy now

The Tightsteer is to help with a worn sector shaft thrust surface. You will know if you have a problem with this with a visual inspection. First you must be sure the steering box is in the center of its travel. I put a piece of tape on the steering wheel and count the turns lock to lock, and cut it in half. The steering box itself must be in the middle. Then have someone move the steering wheel back and forth a few degrees while you look at the sector shaft right were it comes out of the box. If there is some movement in and out of the sector shaft, it can be adjusted out, but only so much (as I found out the hard way). If there is a lot of wear on the sector shaft thrust surface, the lever arm will move into and away from the box a bunch. This motion will show up as slop in the wheel. A tight steer compensates for this wear. If you don't have a lot of movement in and out of the sector shaft, you won't benefit from a Tightsteer.

[pelago]

the tightsteer is to help with a worn sector shaft thrust surface. You will know if you have a problem with this with a visual inspection. First you must be sure the steering box is in the center of its travel. I put a piece of tape on the steering wheel and count the turns lock to lock, and cut it in half. The steering box itself must be in the middle. Then have someone move the steering wheel back and forth a few degrees while you look at the sector shaft right were it comes out of the box. If there is some movement in and out of the sector shaft, it can be adjusted out, but only so much (as i found out the hard way). If there is a lot of wear on the sector shaft thrust surface, the lever arm will move into and away from the box a bunch. This motion will show up as slop in the wheel. A tight steer compensates for this wear. If you don't have a lot of movement in and out of the sector shaft, you won't benefit from a tightsteer.

did this and have no in and out movement at all, however used original shaft but new bushings, shaft had zero scoring on it, no when wheel turned i see the drag link move with slightest touch of wheel, (have maybe 3/4" of what you could call free travel, that is travel with no resistance felt at wheel) but with that (i will call if finger tip travel) trvel wheels dont move, but then again jeep not moving and stationary,,,, think maybe what i have is as good as it will ever be, steers great does not pull any way at all, heavy son of a gun but then used to power steering


all new pieces and parts, ross box rebuilt with new bushings

add on here,,,, photo of paper tags and photo of wires with new metal tag

5274 5275

[LarrBeard]

On the truck, we had a used steering sector and a used tube and worm. I installed a Tight Steer to take out any slack. If everything is new, you are correct - it isn't necessary.

But, I have been known to wear suspenders with a belt on occasion ...

[pelago]

since i do not have a rear end to speak of i have to wear them or get embarrassed when pants fall off

"But, I have been known to wear suspenders with a belt on occasion ... "

[bmorgil]

since i do not have a rear end to speak of i have to wear them or get embarrassed when pants fall off "

Ha ha! That is too funny! My wife reminds me of the disappearing rear end scenario all the time.

If you have the front suspension all rebuilt, the wheels balanced and the toe set, and you aren't seeing anything obviously loose, I would say it is possible the Wheel Bearings are a little loose or the King Pin pivot bearings are loose. The wheel bearings are easy enough to check. The king pin bearings are a little tougher to check. Basically the King pin bearings need to have a little load on them or they will definitely cause shimmy. This usually gets worse as mileage builds up. If it starts to bother you you can always go after it. One thing about this condition. It is activated by the road surface. Usually a bump in the road will get it started. A tap on the brakes or, another bump and it might stop.

[pelago]

WELL, since i spent some time on the drag link and found that it could be tightened at the ends some (they were not necessarily loose, but the end pieces could go in fairly easy with the tool). So i was able to get a full turn on both ends and then replaced cotter pins, New bushings in the bell crank, new springs, new shocks all the way around, did not replace wheel bearings, there was no wobble on either front wheel. with jeep jacked up and both tires floating could not get any wobble doing the old fashioned way of checking, grab the darn thing and try to shake it to make it wobble, could not, but did repack them. The ross box has new bushings in it and the actual worm gear is new. when suspended i could move the wheel and the t slightest touch on wheel i had drag link movement and also subtle tire movement. But when on ground with full wt of front end on tires the drag ling movement did not move the tires, tires only moved when i was past the (free travel) and hit the resistance of the tires with wt on them. rims on front are new, tires are new.

When i brought the two wrecks home i had to select which of the two frames i would use for rebuild. One of the reasons i selected the one i used was the original speedometer only had 15646 miles on it, felt that that was accurate. Reason for that was from experience i knew that the majority of these things sat in a lot for months and months and just got rained on, and they were just not driven that much in garrison. when i pulled the two tie rod ends found that they were really in pretty good shape and absolutely no indication of play that is associated with bad tie rod ends, so i used them and just replaced the dust cover.
also re checked ALL bolts on suspension, all right and tight

did the best i could on front end alignment, never did that before, when i drove it after the drag link adj i took it to 50mph on a straight stretch of road and was able to release hold on wheel and it tracked straight as a arrow on highway for over a mile. did not move, then i moved the wheel about 1" to right and the jeep went right, and same to left 1" and it moved left. shimmy now much less
included one before photo and two after

5286 52875288

[pelago]

BLACK OUT LIGHTS IN OPERATION
I never drove one of these in black out conditions, nor do i know anyone that has. Don't think i want to, feel this is a holdover from WWII when air attack was a real possibility
5289 5295 5291 52925293

[Trailabite]

BLACK OUT LIGHTS IN OPERATION
I never drove one of these in black out conditions, nor do i know anyone that has. Don't think i want to, feel this is a holdover from WWII when air attack was a real possibility
5289 5295 5291 52925293

The history or the reason is cool but, I'm with you on not wanting to drive it that kind of condition lol.

[gmwillys]

Black out operations were not fun to say the least. You are correct, it was a world war II hold over, and we still implement the same type of lights today. With the night vision technology that the war fighter is utilizing today, you don't even need any lights at all, but they are still employed. What is even more fun is learning to drive through periscopes. You loose all depth perception, especially at night. Our driver's hatch has three periscopes to help see ahead and to the sides, but you only get a vague sense of awareness to where the vehicle is in relation to the road. We are mandated to run with the hatch open to 25 degrees, but when testing at night in a pouring rain storm, you can bet the hatch is closed tight.

[bmorgil]

Adjusting the drag link is fairly easy. It will definitely cause slop in the steering if it is too loose. It is there to absorb road shock. On the bell crank end, turn the screw in all the way then back it out till the first cotter key hole lines up. On the steering gear end, turn the screw in all the way then back out one full turn. Tighten to the nearest cotter key hole. This will give you the proper shock absorbent action as well as a tight steering link.

On the front end toe setting, I literally use a tape measure. I am sure you got it right. Basically you make sure the steering box is in the middle, not the steering wheel or front wheels. When you are sure the box is in the middle, Adjust the tie rods to bring the wheels straight ahead. Adjust the toe to 1/8" toe in in the front. When all is correct, the bell crank arm where the tie rods hook, will be parallel to the frame rails, with the steering box in the middle.

[pelago]

got some pieces and parts left over anddamifiknow where in the heck they go?? the solo one lower right corner is for the top/canvas bows but the others??and
got the axe mounted. no way gonna drill holes in drivers side with the gas tank there

5307 5308 5309

oh yeah, got a ticket for "PARTIALLY OBSCURED LICENSE PLATE" Can you believe it? went to district atty and he looked at photo evidence and threw it out. the spare tire partially covers one corner of the plate

5310

[bmorgil]

Justice is almost served! So what did they give you for all of your time they wasted?

[pelago]

Justice is almost served! So what did they give you for all of your time they wasted?

I SIMPLY TOLD THE DISTRICT ATTORNEY THAT I WANTED JURY TRIAL, AND WAS IN MY DRESS BLUES, WITH ALL MEDALS AND RIBBONS AND HAD THE STATE REG STATING THAT THERE WAS NO INSPECTION FOR THIS VEHICLE SINCE IT WAS OVER 25 YRS OLD, AND I WANTED MY DAY IN COURT TO WASTE EVERYONES TIME LIKE THE COP WASTED MINE

the woman actually chuckled and said, "I bet you would at that" then said give me the ticket and she wrote on it dismissed

[gmwillys]

Great! They figured out that it was best they didn't mess with you.

[pelago]

great! They figured out that it was best they didn't mess with you.

perfectly willing to sit in courtroom with a good book nd watch the traffic pass, but so will the cop, think they knew that

[gmwillys]

Without a doubt. Never underestimate a Marine on a mission.

[okiemark]

I could see a cop stopping you to look that Jeep over and admire the good work, but that is anal if I ever saw it.

[pelago]

I could see a cop stopping you to look that Jeep over and admire the good work, but that is anal if I ever saw it.

Been pulled over three times, twice for tail light not working properly, (no light on right side/rear) and seat belt. all three by young cops, they just did not seem to understand that first of all this vehicle does not need a inspection, and that the fixture on right rear is not a tail light per se but in fact a black out light. Vehicle did not come with seat belts and are not req. by NC law. When i said black out light twice they just sort of said (say what).... they had to call their supervisor and i think he set the straight, but off i went without a ticket wtice
the the yahoo pulled mo oeve for obstructed license plate

[pelago]

anyone ever converted 134F solid lifters to hydraulic?? and is this even possible without exotic machine shop charges?

[gmwillys]

The design of the tappets on the 134F or L wouldn't allow for any rendition of a hydraulic lifter. Hydraulic lifters requires a note to travel within, and pressurized oil supplied to the bore to transfer into the lifter to pump up the lifter to take up any lash.

[bmorgil]

The design of the tappets on the 134F or L wouldn't allow for any rendition of a hydraulic lifter. Hydraulic lifters requires a note to travel within, and pressurized oil supplied to the bore to transfer into the lifter to pump up the lifter to take up any lash.

gm's all over it. It could be done but the criteria of super expensive comes into play. If you could find a lifter that would fit, you would need the right length valves, a cam ground for them and a pressurized lubrication system that holds and supplies a minimum pressure to keep the lifters from collapsing at idle. Something the F and L 134's definitely cannot supply. A racing type dry sump oil system, some custom lifters and valves and some serious machine work (there are no oil passages for the lifter supply oil).

It COULD be done. It is on the outer limits of achievable however!

Did you think of this after you put the Bourbon in the coffee, Sir?

[pelago]

"Did you think of this after you put the Bourbon in the coffee, Sir? "
No was just idle thinking, saw so many conversions for motorcycles just wondered.. be kinda costly and with no guarantees

[bmorgil]

It would be cool that's for sure. Because of the flat head design, it would be kind of like an "Underhead Hydraulic Cam" instead of an "Overhead Cam". The valves on the L head and the exhaust valves on the F head would be running directly off the cam lobe with no valve lash to worry about. Interesting concept to say the least!

[pelago]

SPENT MUCH OF THE DAY DOING THINGS THAT NEEDED TO BE DONE BUT JUST WAS TOO LAZY TO DO, BUT DID THEM
TRIMMED PLATE ON TOP OF BOOT FOR SHIFT LEFER
ATTACHING CABLES TO FRAME WITH THE APPROPRIATE CLIPS
MORE METAL TAGS,(HARD TO GET SPOTS)
BUT HAVE SOME QUESTIONS AND COMMENTS.
When these things made shoe size and persons size sure must have been smaller. In fact have a issue with the brake pedal and its proximity to gas pedal, just too damn close. May have to trim some??


5324 5325

cleaned up under shift boot. ground plate and painted it
5326

got two holes in dash panel that i can not identify, seen some photos and labels but was unable to read

5327

do i want to fit this in somewhere, be a visible link to crud from tank???
5328

[LarrBeard]

A. The lower left hole looks to be a bit out of round like someone put it in with a drill bit as an after market modification, but the top hole, with the little index hole at 12 o'clock looks a lot like a real hole (kind of like a switch tab locator.)

B. The best place for the visible crud filter would be between the tank and the suction side of the fuel pump. That way the crud never gets to the pump.

[okiemark]

It's kind of funny to look at that. Those pedals and such look exactly like the one's I've been working on. I guess things didn't change much over the years.

[bmorgil]

A.B. The best place for the visible crud filter would be between the tank and the suction side of the fuel pump. That way the crud never gets to the pump.

If you put a filter on the suction side of the pump you have to be careful. Some pumps will not have the "power" to pull the fuel correctly through the filter. It must be a high flow low restriction filter. The one you have there looks like one that is intended for the pressure side.

Yes the pedals are close! Looks just like mine. I guess they had little feet back in the day.

[pelago]

A FRONT END QUESTION.
When i assembled the front end, tie rods etc I had no idea how tight to make the bolts on the ball joints. the manual does not address this it just says to put on nut and then the cotter pin, but how tight do these nuts actually need to be?

[bmorgil]

It is amazing how many things just didn't have a torque spec published. I had a hard time finding it. Based on old manuals from the model 25 axle, it is 22ft. lbs. and tighten till the closest cotter key hole lines up.

[pelago]

It is amazing how many things just didn't have a torque spec published. I had a hard time finding it. Based on old manuals from the model 25 axle, it is 22ft. lbs. and tighten till the closest cotter key hole lines up.

now i am confused (normal) saw this?
http://cj-2a.com/techtips/specs/torques.html

[bmorgil]

Wow you found a discussion topic here. Your question creates a few more! The early generic service manual for the Model 25 indicates 22ft lbs. and rotate the nut to the next hole. The CJ2A information you have indicates 60 ft lbs. The general torque specification from Manual for 1949 thru 1986 Jeeps shows the bell crank to tie rod at 38 to 45ft lbs, the steering rod to tie rod at 50ft lbs, and the tie rod end nut at 60ft lbs.

The CJ 2 thru 5 all use the same tie rod ends, so the same specs for all the years makes sense. They are all the same thread size so the differences in location make no sense to me. I think in the old 25 manual they are relying on at 22 it is fully seated and then additional rotation to the next hole adds a good deal of torque. But 60 is a lot. That's as much as a head stud.

I tightened them up with a good hard pull from an old arm, and rotated the nut till a cotter key hole lined up. Don't tell anyone I didn't use a torque wrench.

[okiemark]

I only use torque wrenches on engines where it's important go have things tightened evenly. The rest is good old instinct.

[pelago]

I only use torque wrenches on engines where it's important go have things tightened evenly. The rest is good old instinct.



pretty much.

[pelago]

what i actually wound up doing
first of all i have a old type torque wrench old school.. took it to max with old fashioned arm on socket wrench and saw that had quite a way to go for cotter pin alignment. to get pin on the right align took it to above 50 and it alingned but backed it off and put cotter pin in,,, but i checked it with torque wrench 40 or so at that time, now i also had to add a flat washer, due to the holes being actually below where the would even lock? that is what i did and that is where it stays. lot of reading and lots of different numbers, all i feel confident is that the damn ball joints are on and they aint going anywhere

[bmorgil]

It's good. The idea is to firmly seat the tie rod in the taper and lock it there.The flat washers are not unusual. I also had to use them on my CJ3 and, on a few classics. The tolerances and changes through the years no doubt. Those tie rods fit a lot of different things.

[pelago]

back to steering
when i move the steering wheel (only within the free motion of the wheel, was under thje jeep with someone else turning it only in the free motion travel, the drag link moves forward and back but the first ball joint moves forward and back on the ball joint can watch the arm come forwr and just roll over the ball joint here, does that mean it needs to go? not egg shaped (t least to me)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5360[/ATTACHt)

[okiemark]

Slack in the steering is an aggravation for sure.

[pelago]

Slack in the steering is an aggravation for sure.

going to try and make a video

[gmwillys]

If you are seeing slop on the bell crank, then I would replace it. I would also check the mount pin on the crossmember. Slop usually starts on the pin being worn first, then migrates to the bell crank.

[pelago]

video see if i can get it here
https://www.facebook.com/ira.r.jones/videos/10220770155793483/

wobble, what pieces and parts do i need

[okiemark]

Sometimes you can tell more by jacking it off the ground to get the pressure off everything and just try to move the wheels back and forth, and even up and down to check for king pin slack. You can definitely see that bellcrank shaft moving around and looks like a tie rod end is loose. I think the wobble is more likely to be the bell crank than the tie rod end though. Usually a tie rod will not do that going down the road unless you hit a bump, then maybe.

[pelago]

this
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/steering-bellcrank-repair-kit-7-8-shaft-fits-48-66-cj-2a-3a-3b-5-m38-m38a1
or this alone?
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/steering-bellcrank-ball-bends-up-fits-48-71-cj-2a-3a-3b-5-m38-m38a1

or both, agree on the tire rod end

[gmwillys]

I would go with both. The bell crank repair kit will take out any slop for where the bell crank mounts to the frame cross member. This is an often overlooked piece of the steering puzzle because it is often overlooked. The pin will usually have deep grooves worn into it from a lack of grease. The bell crank itself would be a good replacement just because if you have any slop on the drag link end (the ball) is from lack of grease as well. The tie rod, if you have slop there would be the next step.

[pelago]

Since am going to repair the think am going to redo the tie rod ends also new bell crank and then kit and four tie rod ends

[gmwillys]

That would be the safe plan. If not you will be just chasing your tail fixing one item at a time. Take measurements of the tie rods in a neutral position, (tie rod ends close to centered in both ends) before you bust them apart so you know where your alignment should be. Transfer the measurements to the new assemblies then you should be darn near perfect afterwards. You might still want to take toe measurements on the tires before and after to verify that the alignment is still true.

[pelago]

that would be the safe plan. If not you will be just chasing your tail fixing one item at a time. Take measurements of the tie rods in a neutral position, (tie rod ends close to centered in both ends) before you bust them apart so you know where your alignment should be. Transfer the measurements to the new assemblies then you should be darn near perfect afterwards. You might still want to take toe measurements on the tires before and after to verify that the alignment is still true.

yupper that is the plan

[bmorgil]

Ira, how's that plan going?

[pelago]

T GOT INTERRUPTED BY PNEUMONIA..
last Monday did not feel well, son walked in and clled 911 breathing hard. had high fever and pneumonia. off to navy hosp for five days, feel better now and am at home but not ready to tackle much of anything now

[TJones]

It’s good to see ya back in circulation Ira!!!
Take time and get plenty of rest and you’ll be fine, my Bride has had numerous runs of pneumonia and it’s all about resting.
Glad to hear your okay and can’t wait for some of your Wisdom on this forum!!!

[bmorgil]

Holy crap! Stay down man, the M38A1 will be just fine.

[gmwillys]

Glad you are feeling better. Get some rest and keep in touch. This place isn't the same without you!

[pelago]

sorry guys, but it really kicked me on the ***. hard.. trying to get my head and *** on the same wavelength now

[gmwillys]

No need in apologizing. The crud is a hard thing to kick, but you'll be back in no time at all. Take care of yourself, and if you need anything, we'll be here for you.

[okiemark]

Old guys are kind of like old jeeps. Things wear out and take time to fix.

[pelago]

Did not know that there was a viral pneumonia, but i seem to have it, big time

[gmwillys]

Half of my people have been out with some form of the crud. If they catch it early, they are down for a couple of days, but the others have been suffering through for a couple of weeks. No fun at all. After getting the Saudi Sand Sickness 12 years ago, and darn near dying from it, I stay in a regiment of orange juice, Airborne multivitamins, Claritin allergy pill, and Jim Beam. Seems to work well, or at least I don't hardly ever get sick.

[LarrBeard]

T GOT INTERRUPTED BY PNEUMONIA..
last Monday did not feel well, son walked in and clled 911 breathing hard. had high fever and pneumonia. off to navy hosp for five days, feel better now and am at home but not ready to tackle much of anything now

There had been some back channel discussion abut sending the sheriff out to check on you again.

Take it easy - get better!

[pelago]

There had been some back channel discussion abut sending the sheriff out to check on you again.

Take it easy - get better!



my daughter did just that health and welfare check, glad she did, was not in good shape at all

[pelago]

GOT A WHOLE NEW FRONT END IN PIECES AND PARTS,,,,,
Got to get feeling better then time to wrench

[bmorgil]

Gonna be cold under that Jeep!

[pelago]

Gonna be cold under that Jeep!

got heater and Jake to supervise. got four tie rod ends, bell crank, bell crank repair kit and also broke down and got new gasket for the bottom of the xfer case, damn thing leaks now

cept sometimes he gets vocal

[pelago]

Looking for a comment. About gear lube and its flow from trans to xfer case?? Can not find it, and re educate me on over filling and what happens, took bottom plate off and re gasket ed it damn ting better not leak

[bmorgil]

The 18 transfer case has a "balancing" lube system. The transmission gear case has a lube hole shared with the transfer case. The level in the transfer case is lower than the level in the transmission. As the transfer case gears rotate, they lift the lube up to the shared lube passage in the transmission. This sort of refills the transmission case. When the transfer case gears stop rotating, the lube drains back from the transmission to the transfer case. So if you drive it and it losses lube from the transfer case, the trans will keep filling it. The transfer will steal a lot of lube from the trans and vice versa if things are leaking. It is a good idea to keep an eye on both levels.

Overfilling causes the oil to foam up, break down and overheat. When there is to much of it, it gets in its own way so to speak. All the turbulence aerates it and it gets hot. The air bubbles can get between the bearing surfaces and score. Usually it desperately finds a way to start leaking out. In the T90 trans it starts to come out the shift tower. On the Dana 18 it can come out the vent cap.

[LarrBeard]

got heater and Jake to supervise. cept sometimes he gets vocal

If you need a heater and Jake to keep warm, is that a One Dog Night?

[pelago]

if you need a heater and jake to keep warm, is that a one dog night?
well i could have named him jeremiah but he aint no bullfrog he is a ornery yellow lab puppy 9months now

[LarrBeard]

We're glad you're feeling better.

[okiemark]

So back to the transmission and transfer case. Do you add the oil in one place and check it in one place? There is a plug up on the side of the transmission I can see. Mine is a 3 speed. The manual shows two No. 8's for checking the grease then at the bottom it says they are separate for the 4 speed. Which place do I need to check mine or are they both the same?

[pelago]

Since it was explained to me that the flow of lube from trans to xfer is really quite low, my plan is to fill the xfer first then the transmission only to whey i can feel lube on finger at fill hole

[bmorgil]

Basically, you fill each one till it just drips out. If you overfill the trans it will spill into the transfer case. If you then pull the fill plug from the transfer case, it would spill out until the transfer-case and the transmission balanced out so to speak.

So the transfer-case lube is slightly lower than the transmission and the transmission will spill into the transfer-case when overfilled. The transfer-case constantly dumps lube into the transmission. It drains back through the hole into the transfer-case. If you fill them each up individually until the lube just weeps out, then take it out for a run, the transfer-case will be slightly overfilled, if you were to pull the fill plug (Don't pull the plug this is the correct condition). It's a unique way to keep the lube in circulation.

[okiemark]

OK, I think I got it. This setup is a little unusual.

[pelago]

$^&*(((*&*^&^%$#@#$$^*()&* radiator
while trying to get the crossbar bolt that holds the bell crank together i managed to whack a already fragile radiator. Now not a leak but a drain the whole damn thing in a hour leak. Can not see but probably messed the petcock valve on bottom, what the hell pulling it tomorrow and biting the bullet whatever it takes to make it hold coolant and do its damn job,,, even to spending 500.00 on a new one
boogers

[TJones]

Pelago if you can get the one I have to work out of a (52 M38) I’ll give it to ya.
Sorry Buddy if it wasn’t for bad luck you wouldn’t have any:(:(

[bmorgil]

Oh man! Of all the things. If its just the petcock, that might be an easy fix.

I think there was prior discussion about that radiator on this thread. Isn't it unique to the M38A1? I thought gmwillys said something about it hooks to the engine so it can be R&R'd as a unit motor and all. Maybe a CJ3B radiator can be made to work if it's more than an easy fix.

[TJones]

Your right bmorgil, gm did say it was unique to the m38a1 after going back through the comments but like you said if it’s just the petcock it may be an easy/cheap fix!!!!
Hopefully it is.

[pelago]

THIS ONE IS AVAILABLE AND PRICE IS GOOD BUT WAY TO WIDE, DIMENSIONS JUST DONT WORK AND THE WING IS REVERSED OR THE INLET AND OUTLET ON WRONG SIDE, BUT THOSE MAYBE CAN BE CORRECTED, HAVE TO CALL THEM. SENT THEM TWO OF THEIR OWN INQUIRE SYSTEMS,,, EVEN SENT PHOTO NEVER GOT A REPLY? CURIOUS
WILL KNOW A LOT MORE WHEN THE BUGGER OUT OF MAGOO AND ON THE FLOOR??

https://www.championradiators.com/Willys-radiator-1951-1953

[bmorgil]

I like these guy's Ira. Give them some time, I think they can get you going if you need a new one.

[TJones]

I’m with bmorgil Ira, you tell them what you need and they’ll get it or make it.
Their CS is the Best and they go out of their way to help ya!!!

[pelago]

I like these guy's Ira. Give them some time, I think they can get you going if you need a new one.

the link had dimensions on it and i took those outside and matched to the actual radiator in the jeep. way way too wide, could i finagle it in, maybe. and everything is backwards, the entire system designed to come out as a power plant removal includes radiator when lifted out

that new radiator is 600.00 us dollars from kaiser

5480 5481 https://www.championradiators.com/Willys-radiator-1951-1953

a the bottom of the front grill assembly there is a bolt at the bottom center that goes thru frame, mine has a bolt (the top is a ring) that came with the jeep, just took it off and got to wondering what in the hell was the ring for??

[pelago]

5482

its out and i removed the shroud, got some water in it and looking for leaks PUT NEW ONE IN CATALOG AND MINE



5483

[pelago]

Radiator now at the fix it place.... Hope they can, i can see no visible damage at all, few bent fins that is all

[bmorgil]

Fingers crossed that it will be OK! It would be nice to keep the original.

[LarrBeard]

Radiator now at the fix it place.... Hope they can, i can see no visible damage at all, few bent fins that is all

Probably a hairline split in a sweated solder joint. We can hope.

[pelago]

Probably a hairline split in a sweated solder joint. We can hope.
Fingers crossed that it will be OK! It would be nice to keep the original.

CLIFFS AUTO REPAIR SWANSBORO NC
http://www.cliffscarcare.com/

HE HAS RESTORE 1/2 DOZEN 30-50'S AUTO AND TRUCKS IF ANYONE CAN HE WILL

[gmwillys]

Not many true radiator shops left. They'll get you fixed up and back on the road in no time.

I am in love with the flat head V8 boss boss bike that Cliff's auto built.

[pelago]

BAD NEWS
Cliffs called radiator is just too corroded to try to fix> Dam on the outside it looks rather pristine but what do i know he is the one that fixes them and said he cant

[pelago]

jusr spoke to these folks https://www.championradiators.com/Willys-radiator-1951-1953 and their smallest one is still full 4 3/4" to wide bracket to bracket... and the core size is the same as the bracket size on the jeep way way to wide, he said quite frankly yeah could get a custom one made but in reality it would start at 600.00 and go from there
sounds like kaiser only way to go to get a serviceable radiator groan 600.00 us dollars

[LarrBeard]

jusr spoke to these folks https://www.championradiators.com/Willys-radiator-1951-1953 and their smallest one is still full 4 3/4" to wide bracket to bracket... and the core size is the same as the bracket size on the jeep way way to wide, he said quite frankly yeah could get a custom one made but in reality it would start at 600.00 and go from there
sounds like kaiser only way to go to get a serviceable radiator groan 600.00 us dollars

Dag -nab- it.. or something like that.

Talking to the radiator like a Senior Chief or Sgt Major dressing down a stupid E6 wouldn't make it be any different, so I won't waste my breath.

Yeah, it's a kick in several places to find something like this.

If there is a bright side, you won't have a corroded radiator that WILL split out in the middle of a parade or a trip over to the base on a hot summer day.

Good steering, tight seals on the drive line and a tight radiator. You're getting close!

[pelago]

Dag -nab- it.. or something like that.

Talking to the radiator like a Senior Chief or Sgt Major dressing down a stupid E6 wouldn't make it be any different, so I won't waste my breath.

Yeah, it's a kick in several places to find something like this.

If there is a bright side, you won't have a corroded radiator that WILL split out in the middle of a parade or a trip over to the base on a hot summer day.

Good steering, tight seals on the drive line and a tight radiator. You're getting close!

yeah in long run will be so much better off............

[pelago]

Guys, this pneumonia or whatever it is has flared up, my Dr wants me to go to ERE, i asked him woould i probably get admitted again he said most certainly... so be gone for a while, gone but not out

[LarrBeard]

Guys, this pneumonia or whatever it is has flared up, my Dr wants me to go to ERE, i asked him woould i probably get admitted again he said most certainly... so be gone for a while, gone but not out

That is the place that you need to be to get taken care of.

[gmwillys]

Thank you for letting us know. Best wishes from all of us here!

[bmorgil]

God speed Ira!

[okiemark]

Do what the doctors say and don't ogle the nurses.. Too much.

[pelago]

Am home, lots of bad ju ju at that place..
They pulled out 2000ml of fluid out of lungs
but at home recovering

[gmwillys]

Good to hear from you. Rest easy, and we look forward to having you back on with us.

[bmorgil]

Wow you must be breathing a bit better now! 2000ml... man!

[pelago]

poked, prodded, stuck, no sleep, heart healthy diet. NO FLAVOR, STYLE TASTE AT ALL, FIVE DAYS IN A ROW PIECE OF DRIED CHICKEN BROWN RICE BROCCOLI.....
THIS IS WHAT I GOT, SWOLLEN LUYMP NODES IN LUNG, ANURISM, PNEUMONIA (SMALL ON AORTA) THEY EVEN SAID IT WAS NOT OF ANY CONSEQUENCE NOW.... (DR ASKED ME "DO YOU KNOW YOU HAVE A BULLET IN YOUR HIP") i JUST LOOKED AT HIM???? SHRAPNEL SHOULDER AND IN RIGHT THGH.
BUT AM HOME AND FEELING BETTER, GAINED 26LBS OF FLUID IN 7 DAYS But as i said recovering fast, riding bike, and walking as much as i can

[bmorgil]

Man you are so on track! The exercise is so important. Getting that blood pumping does something. You must not be allowed anywhere near the MRI machines on the chance you were carrying something magnetic inside!

My Grandma routinely refilled the men upon return from hospital stays, with BIG bowls of pasta. I think the food is so bad there to insure you won't stay long!

[okiemark]

yeah, they feed you like that and don't realize you are probably going on a binge when you get home.

[pelago]

Have a ""mass"" on adrenal gland... from cat scan, what in the hell is a mass?? and what the fxxc does it mean, swolen lympn nodes also in stomach, wtf??
just not happy, thought was doing everything ok, A1C was down to normal BP usually 115/60 in fact many times they tested twice because bp so good, Oxygen always in the mid 90's weighed 10lbs less than wt i graduated from boot camp.. yeah broke my damn foot again, Dr said do you know you have a broken foot, said well, it hurt, he said it sure as hell ought to, its broken. never had flu never had vaccination for flu or pneumonia??
fuxk

oh yeah they offered to remove george (named my bullet) from hip

WANNA WORK ON MAGOO!!!! DROPPED 600.00 PLUS ON RADIATOR (GOT NEW HOSE TOO)

[bmorgil]

WANNA WORK ON MAGOO!!!! DROPPED 600.00 PLUS ON RADIATOR (GOT NEW HOSE TOO)

You got to heal brother!

That bullet would look real cool hanging from the mirror on Maggoo!

[LarrBeard]

Listen to the DI.

The mass is probably from that San Miguel that was half formaldehyde or some other industrial waste.

[okiemark]

This getting old and going to the doctor is a bunch of BS. Had to go for an ultrasound this morning to check out a skin cancer. Got to go to the city next Thurs to get it cut out. Not the first one.

[LarrBeard]

Those of us who spent time in the sun over the years tend to develop places on our hands, arms, noses, bald heads and such that make the Dermatologist go "Hmmm ...".

There is this cute little dermatologist PA I go see that cuts a few square inches of skin off me just about every year - and for a week or so I look like I either fell off a motorcycle or I have leprosy. She will find a bump, go "Hmmm.." then gets out a little thing that looks like a scoop you use to make cantaloupe balls and takes a divot out of me. She whips in a stitch and says "it will just go away in a week or so". But does it itch first!

But, I'd rather have her look and tell me that there was nothing there than to say "If we had only caught that sooner ...".

Yeah, going to the Dr. isn't fun, but it prevents a lot of worse choices.

Let us know what you find - and scratch that dawg's ears.

[okiemark]

I've had a few in the past but had been doing good for a long time then had to have one taken off my nose about a year and a half ago. Not a serious type but they had to take a pretty good chunk to get it all. The one now is on my neck where I have a lot more loose skin to spare. My dermatologist likes to use that nitrogen torch and she gave me some chemo crème that burns the heck out of those scaly patches.

[pelago]

ho,y hot radiator batman... everything been shipped hot damn

[pelago]

Radiator here monday!!!!

as some of you know, i am rebuilding, slowly, my spare motor to new condition. anyone got a simple angle iron box set up for having engine and tranny on stand to run?? seen some super smple photos of engines sitting on a angle iron set up.... just random thoughts

5527

[gmwillys]

Check out some of these stands. They will need a little bit of tweaking to fit the mounts on the 134 F.

https://www.jegs.com/pt/Engine+Storage+Stand

[pelago]

maybe this one?? heck cost of angle iron and welding would be more
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80064/10002/-1

[bmorgil]

I have several of those Ira. The only problem you will have is they are made to bolt to a Chevy Motor. You will have to use a few pieces of steel to adapt it to the L134. It is going to be a little to wide. I think it could be modified or a few brackets made up fairly easy. For the price, you are right. You cant buy the material for that.

[pelago]

well,
new radiator
new tie rod ends
new bell crank
rebuilt drag llink
new main gasket for transfer case

keeping fingers crossed, drove a little while, temp never moved 168degrees.... not too sure on alignment, pulls somewhat to the right now not much but some
health wise, who the hell knows, not fgeeling like i did before christmas at all, fXck it

[pelago]

seems to me in my n aive way of thinking it is hard to adjust the toe in with wt of jeep on front tires??

[gmwillys]

To prevent scarring of the tie rods with a pipe wrench, on a straight axle suspension I would put it up on stands. With all new tie rod ends, it should adjust by hand with the weight off of the wheels. Toe adjustments will not be effected by the weight being off unless your king pins are worn.

[pelago]

To prevent scarring of the tie rods with a pipe wrench, on a straight axle suspension I would put it up on stands. With all new tie rod ends, it should adjust by hand with the weight off of the wheels. Toe adjustments will not be effected by the weight being off unless your king pins are worn.



did that and the droivers side still hard to turn, but brought in in used tape measure and damn got to be close to it, drove it to wal mrt (sure does draw a crowd in parking lot) and at fifty miles ph,, let go of wheel and it sort of drifted to the right some

[gmwillys]

The crown of the road, and the nature of non directional bias plies, that will most likely be as good as it gets.

That is the reason I don't want to paint the 2A. Nothing says go away like rusty, jagged sheet metal.

[pelago]

WELL,
Scrubbed garage floor, cleaned it well, Drove Magoo for an hour, steered well, no shakes, no shimmies, no noises.. temp gauge never moved from 168degrees.
parked it in garage, went inside. This morning went out and started him up and moved to drive. Looked at floor, no gear lube anywhere, no puddles at all. guess the new gaskets and seals worked. No water anywhere. Had a spot from rear main, about hafpenny size, same size drop under rear differential right at the drain plug. front differential had a drop forming at the drain
THINK THAT IS THE BEST IT IS GOING TO BE. REAR MAIN, SHOW ME A ORIGINAL MOTOR OF THAT ERA THAT DONT GIVE OFF SOME DROPS.....

NOW FOR EMERGENCY BRAKES

[gmwillys]

Good deal! Drips are just part of the experience of having a darn near 70 year old hunk of Iron and steel. Our '46 2A leaks from the rear main, and eventually it will get fixed, but for now there is a diaper of Pigg mat that keeps the oil from dripping in the driveway.

[bmorgil]

I agree on the 70 year old vehicle that's for sure. I think the fact is these baby's were a controlled leak right from the start. It is very hard to not have ANY leaks. The rear main, tappet cover, and the front and rear pan to block interface are just a few spots that seem to be notorious on the motor. On the trans and transfer case, there are many bolts that are tapped all the way through to the lube. It is very tough to permanently seal threads like that. And as Magoo proved, the rear cap/shim pack assembly is a prime leaker' spot.

[gmwillys]

Just like an old Harley. If it stops leaking, it's low on oil.

[pelago]

" The rear main, tappet cover, and the front and rear pan to block interface are just a few spots that seem to be notorious on the motor. On the trans and transfer case, there are many bolts that are tapped all the way through to the lube." YUPPER.. and my way of thinking is few drops here and there screw it, i turn on ignition switch, she starts, after a bit relax the choke, Magoo, is ready to rock and roll.............
Got this to say, Proud of the work, sure, got to say yes am proud. but more important is i am happy, happy with a piece of history that i in fact lived thru. Something that i in fact drove in combat. Neat. And I love the damn thing. All my life i awlays tried to do the best i could (well, we wont include high school times though) when i got to real world one had to be proud of their work, to know that quality control never found a issue with workmanship. So if anyone has one of these critters get off your dead *** and do it.
Another thing, this may sound silly, but I am 75 years old and this past nearly four years has been important, the jeep gave me purpose, gave me something that was right at home, waiting for the next bolt to be turned. soon will have e brake in and rear seat, canvas coming. might be prudent to search for Project 2.0 what you all think???

[bmorgil]

You dont even have to think about that one! 2.0 for sure.

Your words ring so true Ira. I think the time I have spent with this project, the people I have met and the fact there is always something to do on it, make this a perfect life extender.

[okiemark]

My project has sure given me plenty to do and think about and learn about this winter. I can actually talk intelligently about Jeeps now and honestly I didn't know much more than I knew a jeep when I saw it. It has also cost me a lot more in cash than I ever dreamed, but I have no one but myself to blame for that. Most of all, I'm glad you have got your health going in the right direction, Mr. pelago.

[pelago]

My project has sure given me plenty to do and think about and learn about this winter. I can actually talk intelligently about Jeeps now and honestly I didn't know much more than I knew a jeep when I saw it. It has also cost me a lot more in cash than I ever dreamed, but I have no one but myself to blame for that. Most of all, I'm glad you have got your health going in the right direction, Mr. pelago.

thank you so very much, this is a great site, good information from knowledgeable people. you are part of the club,, thre "WHAT HAVE I GOTTEN MYSELF INTO"

but you know what, it is simply one bolt at a time, then repeat that one more bolt... then after time you re done>

[LarrBeard]

thank you so very much, this is a great site, good information from knowledgeable people. you are part of the club,, thre "WHAT HAVE I GOTTEN MYSELF INTO"

but you know what, it is simply one bolt at a time, then repeat that one more bolt... then after time you re done>

You talked about a drip here and a drop there. I think that's about as good as 70-year old Jeeps get - or probably ever were. I can remember the dirt floor in the home place garage and there were always oil spots under the crankcase vent tube, somewhere around the back of the transmission and somewhere around the differential on all of the vehicles - even the Allis-Chalmers tractor.

The chickens would escape their yard and go into the garage and take dirt baths in the bone dry dirt under the Jeep and the old Dodge - but you could always tell which ones had escaped because they would have oil on them from the drips.

Over at Jeep Fest last summer, as soon as we parked vehicles in the arena, the ladies helping with the event would show up with a handful of aluminum cake pans wanting to know how many we wanted. It was a given that we were going to drip - just how much!

I still claim that Old Jeeps and Old Guys are a lot alike; a bit cranky, we have our quirks, we sometimes smell bad and we sometimes drip on the floor. It's just us.

[pelago]

"
I still claim that Old Jeeps and Old Guys are a lot alike; a bit cranky, we have our quirks, we sometimes smell bad and we sometimes drip on the floor. It's just us. "

and when over 70 being cranky is allowed
just went out andchecked got under it and still onlyone drop for rear main all else good......

[okiemark]

That's why I like to save large flat cardboard boxes. They make perfect oil drip catchers.

[pelago]

just picked up the head from the machine shop for the 134f spare motor, looks great, did a valve job and shave head a bit
.
$150.00 us dollars, picked these guys because the did such a fine job on the diesel i rebuilt. I drove Magoo out to them to pick head up, owner of shop wanted to buy Magoo

[gmwillys]

That was money well spent! Good machine shops are hard to come by these days, or at least they are getting fewer and farther between.

[pelago]

Can not say just how disappointed i am, a business that i trusted for years and years
really steered me wrong, Cliffs auto repair, the place i took the radiator really lied to me, just plain lied. Their words
"too much corrosion. can not repair" should have been, "Mr Jones, we are just too busy to mess with it, we have not even looked at it" but no they had some cockamamie bull crap. After the new 600.00 radiator in got to thinking, seriously looked inside the old one, had one of those little cameras, corrosion, what corrosion. Actually found a old time radiator repair 60 miles away, nondescript shop out in the country. took the think in and there was a man actually soldering a cap on a radiator, Asked him if he could do a pressure test and he said sure, Long story short, there was a tiny crack in bottom of end cap near drain, took him fifteen minutes to fix. new pressure test to 30bls not a leak, thing sat in test tank and not a bubble to be found. Had Cliffs auto repair just told the damn truth....