well, the darn thing is out

[pelago]

1947 WILLYS and each and every bolt was covered and locked up with 70yr old rust1180[ATTACH=CONFIG]1180[]
plan is to get to frame, sand blast paint and do frame up restoration
was pleasantly surprised to take vlve cover off and find it pretty clean

[LarrBeard]

1947 WILLYS and each and every bolt was covered and locked up with 70yr old rust1180[ATTACH=CONFIG]1180[]
plan is to get to frame, sand blast paint and do frame up restoration
was pleasantly surprised to take vlve cover off and find it pretty clean

OK - here is your first surprise. You probably already know that:

A. Someone has swapped the engine in that 'lil beast, or

B. It ain't a 1947. The F-head engine was an 1951 - 1952 engine.

Good luck and keep us informed, especially about the "oh-by-the-ways". That"s how we learn.

[pelago]

I wondered, about that but i am not even sure it is a '47 am a new guy on this1181 i actually have two of them and the one on the right has a willys plate on it someone did a crummy job converting it to a 12vdc. just built a cart to sit the engine on, it is on castors and high enough that the pan is protected.. one on the left IMO has a better frame, could be wrong there also, but need to get this one down to frame and sand blast

[LarrBeard]

I wondered, about that but i am not even sure it is a '47 am a new guy on this1181 i actually have two of them and the one on the right has a willys plate on it someone did a crummy job converting it to a 12vdc. just built a cart to sit the engine on, it is on castors and high enough that the pan is protected.. one on the left IMO has a better frame, could be wrong there also, but need to get this one down to frame and sand blast

I'm not an authority on the "little Jeeps". I do old trucks. But, a quick Google of CJ-5 gives a lot of pictures of CJ-5's and a Wikipedia look at CJ-5's make me believe that both of your hulks are either CJ-5's or some military variant (?maybe) of that model. The rounded hood is a real clue. This makes them later than '47.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_CJ#CJ-5

Earliest it could be is about '54, but could be later by far. That would explain the F-head 134 though.....

The F-134 could be as late as 1972 .... .

[pelago]

ONE OF THEM HAVE SOME USMC tag marks on them (left Jeep) I remember driving a M38A1 in vietnam iin fact i drove one into the china sea, once!! but they all looked like this,1182



the tac marks were on the hood and it has been sandblasted and primered I was told that the M38A1 was in fact in service from 47 to 71

[pelago]

i built a simple castor cart, to just store the engine,,,, to use a engine work type mount it would cost about 100.00 for a good one and the one i have is built out of scrap... now can roll it around and put it in garage to keep rain off of it.... but interesting note about picture is... SINCE WORKING SOLO THE TRANSMISSION WAS RELUCTANT TO GO IN... HOOKED UP A COME ALONG AND RATCHETED IT IN1183

[pelago]

Just had the thing pressure/steam washed and got down to the base color sort of a 1940's green, like on a old tractor. like a old machine built by BUCYRUS/ERIE maybe even international harvestor

[LarrBeard]

The Willys M38A1 or (MD) was built from 1952 until 1957 for the U.S. military forces and from 1958 until 1971 for export to foreign governments. The United States Marine Corps continued to order and use the M38A1 until 1971. The Marine version had minor differences from the units used by other branches. The production information available for these vehicles suggests a much more limited production run. The M38A1 was so well liked, they introduced the CJ-5 in 1955 based on its design.
Drive Train The M38A1 used the "Hurricane" F-Head 134 I4 engine, T-90 3 speed transmission, Dana 18 transfer case, either the Dana 25 or the Dana 27 front axle, and Dana 44 rear axle.

[pelago]

STEERING COLUMN!!

My limited exp with these things makes me ask what might be a dumb question. since i have two "hulks" am preparing to use pieces and parts from both to make one.
i have selected what i believe to be the best frame and what i believe is the body that needs less repair, unfortunately have to remove both bodies and swap.
STEERING SYSTEM to remove the steering column or to remove it all as one piece?. would it be better to remove the entire mechanical system and leave the actual column attached and remove up thru hole in the floor?? or remove the steering column (HERE IS THE RUB I ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA HOW TO REMOVE IT) AND TAKE IT ALL OUT IN PIECES.

[LarrBeard]

I Googled "Remove steering from M38A1" and found more than I wanted to look through. I'd suggest you look through these topics and you'll find a lot of info you need.

And, here is something you absolutely MUST buy - the M38A1 Service Manual. It will save you more time and trouble than you can imagine!!!

http://www.kaiserwillys.com/mechanics-service-manual-fits-52-66-m38a1

This is really a "Don't start the job without it" item.

[pelago]

manual came today! i used yahoo big difference when i used google all kinds of stuff now saved came up,,,,amazing what a different search engine does, with yahoo i know how to remove steering wheel on a out 90 cars but no M38A1

thanks almost got it all out and just discovered that the tube is shot oh well, did not figure it would be a cake walk, but did get engine steamed cleandes... 30lbs of crud came off

[pelago]

DID quite a bit of sandblasting today,,, dash, radiator housing, lots of parts and pieces, all covered with many layers of paint and rust1224 before shot




and here is after1225

[pelago]

1228more12261227


steering is out and entire brake system and clutch control, gone... now to snake the remaining wire harness, (which on the surface is intact)..
leave the frame and front and rear differential and suspension to remove and then sand blast the frame

[LarrBeard]

Those are cleaning up nicely. Not a lot of rusted or eaten away places, just a few character marks.

[pelago]

of what that has been sand blasted not a single rust thru. really quite amazed, now the main tub that is a different story, will need repair panels for sure

[LarrBeard]

I'm no authority on the "little Jeeps", but from what I read about folks who buy a whole replacement tub, even "the exact fit tubs" end up being a cut, weld, grind adventure. If there's enough there to fix, stick with the original if you can.

[pelago]

THAT IS MY PLAN!!!!
got tow tubs to put and piece together
and kaiser willy repair panels however a tremendous amount of rebuild to do12391240

[LarrBeard]

Looking at that spring - that could have rattled someone's teeth! (Probably just rusted quietly away though...)

Sprung springs aren't that rare.

[pelago]

body of jeep just about to come off, but question, the drivers side gusset up under front of floor panel has wood not sure of the shape of the replacement

[pelago]

1254



THE BODY IS OFF!! about three hours more, actually got a grinder and cut the darn things off.. lost less blood that way

[pelago]

really need a blow up of rear bumper set up having some issues. previous owner (s) did some welding and i am trying to reverse this???

[pelago]

One thing that i have noticed is that the two m38a1's that i have all have one thing in common,,,,,,
under the jeep, or bottom of the jeep is painted black, and that is the engine compartment all of it is black is that proper?

[pelago]

can someone tell me how the transmission and transfer case actually bolt to the cross member piece, unfortunately mthe two jeeps i have do not have one on them and i ordered a new one but truying to line up the holes is not that easy and i do not wan to ger a crane to puck up the engine sure like to see a drawing

[pelago]

1344
WELL!! all of the differentials and springs removed and now to take it to sandblast. really looking forward to having it in the garage under cover and primed and painted USMC Green, have to replace the rear shock mounts and will probably grind them off, have two new ones ready to go

[pelago]

Somewhat of a set back was hoping to rebuild by cleaning and painting springs but found just too much rust and weakened leafs so back to order book

[LarrBeard]

On the '48 2WD truck, we were able to salvage the front springs, but the back ones were too far gone. The good news is that it's a straightforward job, but we did have to make a special drift tool to get the old worn bushings out.

[pelago]

On the '48 2WD truck, we were able to salvage the front springs, but the back ones were too far gone. The good news is that it's a straightforward job, but we did have to make a special drift tool to get the old worn bushings out.THANKS FOR THE IMAGES I might get lucky the springs on the 2nd jeep look better than the ones i took off, but to be sure i am in process of removing springs for inspection, if looks good will dis assemble each one clean and sand and paint and rebuild i hope i hope i hope
one other interesting development, i had a box with all the nuts and bolts and screws that i took off the first jeep, they on the surface look pretty bad, but i tumbled them in the same device i use to clean brass for reloading, they were tumbled in stainless steel rods 3/16" X 3/4" over night with water and a little dishwashingliquid, damn but they came out almost new looking and i bet i can use 90% of them
they must have used good steel in the 40"s

[LarrBeard]

i tumbled them in the same device i use to clean brass for reloading,

Yep - brass tumblers can clean up a lot of other things besides cases...

[pelago]

clutch assembly. wouldnt the prudent thing to do since i alrready have the engine on the stand and bell housing and tranny attached would be to go ahead and get the rebuild kit and replace clutch

[LarrBeard]

wouldnt it be the the prudent thing to do - since i already have the (fill in the blank here) out, to go ahead and get the rebuild kit and replace (fill in the blank again).

This is what every Jeep overhaul job get to.

Welcome to the club.

Seriously, look things over very closely. If it looks worn, corroded or oil soaked - fix it now. It will never be any easier or less expensive, you just didn't plan on doing it!

[pelago]

i know the back stud on the oil pan cover was stripped and was constantly loose and it had to lose oil (all over transmission and bell housing) almost afraid to pull inspection plate. but the whole kit is 200 bucks and it all might not be bad, might just need a new clutch and sure as hell dont want to take it all apart later

[pelago]

was the tub and all of its pieces and parts all spot welded?? i have to replace the rear deck and the complete tool box and when i remove the damaged parts it might help to know how they were together

[pelago]

Was advised to drill out spotwelds and pieces and parts come right off. What might be the best way to "unearth" the spot welds, sand them down to can be seen?? Sounds logical to drill them out, generally speaking how big around are the spot welds???

[LarrBeard]

Here is a pile of pieces we cut out of the bed of the '48 truck. There is a special spot-weld cutter you chuck up in a drill.

Roughly a three-sixteenths to a quarter-inch

[pelago]

WOW did not know such a tool existed, frame gets sandblasted next week, then of all things i have to call my dept of motor vehicles and have them come out to look for a serial number on frame, which of course they wont find. I do have the Wilys serial number plate on the body, but this guy thinks the serial number is also on the frame. told him there would not be, but he insists on looking and if i want to create a title have to play his game. he actually wants me to leave it bare metal until he sees is. got to play by their rules if i want to get a title. But i told him it will be in my garage and i wont wait for it to rust. will have heat on in garage for 24 hours then i will prime it, not going to all that trouble to do a frame up restoration for head games

[pelago]

am in the process of removing the tool box, the different panels and pieces and parts of the tub are much more complicated than they appear. I am about an hour away from being able to remove the tub (the one i want to restore) and i think that having the tub on its side will make the tool compartment removal much easier. although i do not have a spot weld cutter i do have some very good drill bits and when i expose a spot weld by some cleaning/grinding the drill bits go through it like a hot knife thru butter.. Tool box is also laid on top of part of the back deck front lip, so tool box out then back (deck) lid, and as was told to me before that the holes from the spot weld are good places to ??tig?? (right word?) the thing back together again. also will post some photos of the frame sandblasted and painted on stands soon. body needs passenger floor repair, tool box, back deck and back of tub. maybe the passenger side outside panel??
not insurmountable goals?? had to get a set of coveralls just because the thing was tearing up my arms, cutting the hell out of them. oh well, no pain no gain. no blood no gain.

[pelago]

have no idea how many spot welds that there are, but probably will need to drill 200?? oh well no one said it would be easy. but having the tub out and on its side will really help. I THINK I GOT A SOURCE TO WELD IT BACK TOGETHER, that was a concern, a body shop whew damn would be super high dollar expensive, but a boy that used to mow my yard (now 45 yrs old) welds and he said hell yeah he can do it HOOOOOORAYDINGDONG YEAH!!!1507





From photo can see how it is all layered, oh well...

[pelago]

Body off the frame!!! Now i can get to all the spotwelds much much easier15081509

[pelago]

1511I touched a little about this earlier, here is actual results. 24 hours of tumbling in the same thing i use to clean brass for reloading, and am not sure but probably saved some money. thes nuts bolts washers etc are probably 50 60 yrs old, they looked like hell, rust dirt could not even see threads on some. but look at them now. years agowhen these things were b uilt the steel was different than now

[LarrBeard]

Here is another hint from a year into the "new" truck.

Make sure every fastener you put on that vehicle has a coat of oil on it! It doesn't have to be greasy - just a film of oil.

A year into the '48's second life, just about every new fastener has a coat of rust on it. New hardware has environmentally friendly plating; that means it rusts. I'm going over the truck with an oily rag and wiping everything down.

[pelago]

i am hoping to use many of the original fasteners, after tumbling them. 90% seem fine, good threads and damn if they dont (some) look new. difference in steel from 1952 to now?? but since i have collected bolts, nuts and screws from two vehicles might get lucky. my last act was to tumble the whole mess with oil, and they are stored in a box, covered.. The tub that i am going to save has many projects on it, but seems as if most can be repaired/replaced from Kaiser.

[Tim..]

I'm enjoying watching your progress. It's really coming along. I bought a $100 welder from Harbor Freight and surprisingly it's not a bad little welder. I've never welded before but have been practicing and hopefully I will get good enough to do minor welding on the body panels myself.

[pelago]

really am so tempted to do that, but have not welded (arc) since high school fifty years ago.... got lots of small welds to do

[pelago]

here is a question best answered by someone who has been there and done that. Now that i have the tub off the '52 willys M38A1 I can identify all the repair spots. here is a picture of the passenger side rear wheel well, as you can see i need to repair the entire inside of the wheel well. once the back deck is removed there is no way a new one can be welded to the the body, hence a 3" X whatever length needed. has to be replaced. I can get a 4X8 sheet of cold rolled 20g steel for 38.00 and i can cut off all of the pieces (flat) that i will need. Now the question, weld/repair all rusted spots, install new kaiser pieces, then have the whole kit and kaboodle sand blasted..... or get the tub as it is sand blasted then replace/repair after quck coat of primer????1515 I am pretty sure the other wheel well looks the same but since tub is on its side now not sure, but probably is same

[pelago]

1516not sure if photo came up so here it is again

[LarrBeard]

Never an absolute answer, but on the '48 we sandblasted first, primed and then did metal work. Once its clean you can see exactly what needs to be done. Until its clean, you can't be exactly sure.

[7willys]

really am so tempted to do that, but have not welded (arc) since high school fifty years ago.... got lots of small welds to do

I hadn't welded since the 60's but the shops were killing me on small jobs so I bought
a wire welder and after about 10 minutes of practice it looked great
The welder paid for itself that day

[pelago]

Gonna have to go downthere and take a look

[pelago]

154215431544,
PROGRESS PROGRESS PROGRESS. Sandblasted frame, back in garage, first coat of primer on!!!!! will let it sit overnight and hit it agtain

[LarrBeard]

Looks good! It doesn't look like there are any surprises once you got down to bare steel.

[pelago]

admit I had some concerns when he started sandblasting, previous to that the same fellow did some welding, he welded on the new shock absorber mounts, I asked him if the welder that was sold at harbor freighe was any good, and he looked at me and said "DONT BUY ANYTHING FROM THEM IT IS ALL CHINESE JUNK" forewarned i guess. his welder can be had for 1000.00 bucks and comes complete with bottle for wire, he showed me how to use it and damn if i did a half decent job, he said a little practice and you will have it. think next thing is to get it to roll on wheels, springs shocks and sand blasted painted differentials front and rear. a lot to be said about different primers and such. I lived on a sailboat and the engine mounts and brackets were steel, i used rustoleum rusty metal primer and it held for over ten years in harsh environment, saltwater, bilge water and did not fail once. i used gloss white rustoleum on some of the ineteior and it also did not fail. guess you go with what you know. that is the primer on the frame

[pelago]

had to put this up here, first new pieces and parts going on to see how it fits.. and to be honest, its a vanity thing. had this frame ready to blast since jan, but illness and other things just got in damn way
1545

one thing i do not understand, this is the rear motor mount and has a ton of weight on it but it installs from bottom , my ignorant way of thinking is that the thing should rest on the inside of the box frame?? and does anyone see a problem with some welding for this?? only has four bolts to hold it?? i know engineers that are smarter than i have it bolted??

[LarrBeard]

I don't know all of the details, but:

A. If it's bolted from the bottom, you can jack up or support the rear of the motor and then remove the whole rail and mount assembly as one piece if you needed to;

B. There are four bolts. I could do the strength of materials and tensile strength numbers, but I'm too lazy. I'd guess that the yield on those bolts, even with tightening preload, is well into the tens of thousands of pounds;

C. Welding is close to permanent, especially when you are trying to grind or cut it off upside down with slag and sparks in your face.

My two cent comment ....

[pelago]

"My two cent comment ..." BELIEVE ME, YOUR 2CENTS WORTH A HELL OF A LOT. Looked at the bolts i took out and decided even though they can probably be used again, i felt they needed to go to retirement home.. have a source and got 4 new bolts #8 case hardened , new bolts, and double washers one on each side and put a lock washer on also, for sXXXt sake i used stainless steel bolts the ones with the nylon anti vibrate loose feature... put 30lbs torque on each think its done!~!

[LarrBeard]

It took me a day or so to get around to crawling under the truck to look at the cross member with the rear motor mount. Sure enough, that mount supports the transmission. On the truck it uses eight bolts (a little different configuration) but that cross member supports the transmission. If you need to remove the transmission, or on the M38 probably the transfer case either, that crossmember has to come out if the tub is on the frame. You would have figured that out pretty soon when you started stacking things back in there.

[pelago]

"If you need to remove the transmission, or on the M38 probably the transfer case either, that crossmember has to come out if the tub is on the frame. You would have figured that out pretty soon when you started stacking things back in there. " once this critter is up and running I aint never taking the engine out again, damn thing is so freaking heavy. man they used a lot of steel in that motor and transmission!!!

[pelago]

FOUR HOURS,, FOUR HOURS TO GET THREE STINKING EX MANIFOLD BOLTS LOOSE!!! Alternate heat then penetrating oil, and tapping with hammer, then try to break loose, then back to heat and back to oil, dont have impact wrench, so i just tapped quite hard on a breaker bar with 1/2 socket, then finally they broke loose, now i can remove in prep to paint engine.....sheeeesh

[pelago]

spending some time on the motor, getting it detailed and ready to paint. bell housing and engine was green once, and the transmission also green (ollive drab) but someone painted the transmission and xfer case black, am getting it off and will very soon (few days) be ready to paint, NOW who in the heck sells olive drab engine paint????

[LarrBeard]

Hey, the good news is that you got the bolts loose without twisting them off!

I went to a Sherwin-Williams store when I needed to paint my antenna tower. If you can find a real paint salesperson, they can do some looking (may have to go rummage in their computer) and find a number of industrial bases (machinery paints) that they can custom tint to match a paint chip.

Lowes, Home Depot and Menards don't help unless you want to paint a wall or porch.

[pelago]

"Hey, the good news is that you got the bolts loose without twisting them off" partially true!! some of them gave up the ghost and just broke!.. some on the tub i had to grind off, (real fun upside down under the darn thing) had crap that has been on there for ???? years in my eyes, hair, mouth! but got it off. and taking your advice before serious repairs on tub having it sand blasted then primed, then repaired, only three items to sand blast, front and rear differential and tub "antenna tower" you a ham? I am, since 1956. I like the idea of going to a professional paint store, i have the spray can of olive drab (from kaiser and is correct olive for Marine M38A1) that i got to paint the parts that join together. and a gallon of olive to paint the whole critter when time comes..

[pelago]

YOUR SHERWIN WILLIAMS HELL OF A LOT BETTER THAN MINE!!! GUY AT COUNTER SAID "OH WE CANT GET THAT" NEVER TOUCHED COMPUTER. guess he was just not interested in customer service

[LarrBeard]

Well fooey on them and their horse...

Try this: https://www.ppgpaints.com/painting-segments/industrial/industrial-maintenance

[pelago]

i called them, no heat resistant paint. called almost every paint manufacturer that i could locate, went to some paint stores, went to every machine shop that actually build engines, NO SUCH PAINT AVAILABLE, I remember that John Deere used green paint since it conception and so did Bucyrus Erie (that name will get some) all of their huge machines were olive drab green. Monday i will go to a John deer dealer and see what is what. Now there are hi temp grill paints good to 1300 degrees highest engine paint i could find was 650 degrees. some suggested paint it black with the hi temp grill paint and paint over with green??? still a work in progress1579

this is a quart of green john deere engine paint JUST FIRED OFF A EMAIL TO THEIR CUST SERVICE/TECH DEPT

[LarrBeard]

You can find John Deere Green at a lot of Tractor Supply. TSC and the rural supply stores. JD Green is bright, but once you get a quart, the local Ace or True Value hardware might cut some black pigment into it to dull it towards OD.

[pelago]

That is what i was thinking be black huh? i know the owners of ace hdw down street might get lucky.. SOMEHOW I AM GONNA FIGURE THIS OUT......remember Bucyrus Erie, they made huge machines for industry huge lathes and milling machines, they had a dull green paint also

[pelago]

As previously reported been working on the motor, and cleaning it up to paint,, have not found olive drab engine paint yet,(may never find it) but did find something that really surprised me. while browsing at Lowes i noticed this product
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_extend_spray/overview/Loctite-Extend-Rust-Neutralizer-Spray.htm
just for the heck of it i bought a can, because the humidity was creating surface rust on the clean engine, i tried it and damn if it didn't work. i was really amazed at the results.. went back and got two more cans

[pelago]

getting ready to paint the motor, spending a lot of time on the undersides. and the whole transmission and transfer case. have paint remover on the transmission/xfer case, second time for paint remover. got a driveway full of black paint first time, now letting it set and trying to get the rest of it. interesting that the paint remover does not touch the coating on the bell housing. dull green, and the strong remover does nothing to it. but the paint on the other parts is different story. wonder if the paint on bell housing might have been baked on????1634 once finished with remover, will wire brush the whole thing and then spray the rust remover on, let it do its thing, wash it then paint it1635 quite possibly this transmission saw some navy time,,,,, see the navy grey?

[pelago]

Well, it aint olive drab, but i talked to some motor t guys at lejeune, they just dojnt paint engines, what ever company color is that is it, the big caterpiller engines are yellow and they stay that. only people that repaint is depot rebuild in albany ga1636

[pelago]

I have two areas on the frame that bother me, probably would never be a problem but i know that they are there. so am gonna fix them. got a welder and going to practice some on some scraps then cut out bad area and replace with new steel, clean them1637 up and paint them1638 if i am not able to do a quality job i know someone that can

[pelago]

update on welding. Not satisfactory, just can not see, think it was (hope) the worn out helmet, could not see well enough to follow the seam between two pieces of steel? would go off on a tangent, also was thinking i was advancing but in reality was in same spot. not happy at all with results. picked up a new helmet this afternoon and tomorrow another day

[LarrBeard]

Duhhh on me ...

I went out and asked Mr. Google how to mix OD paint and found pages of recipes.

Here is one for Sherwin Williams:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-and-history/olive-drab-green-formula-sherwin-williams-industrial-enamel-hs-255295/

[pelago]

copied, and cut and pasted to a file, now to go back to paint store, thanks

[pelago]

the list! Of course it is huge, and so so much to do. but last two days have accomplished this. Removed all studs from block for ex manifold, some were okay, but studs are cheap... replaced them all. horribly frozen stud on manifold itself, took 1/2 bottle propane (darn thing glowed but it allowed it to move) and a small pipe wrench to get it out. again replaced. Minor defects in frame welded with new steel. including the crossover piece in rear, this was pretty damn thin to begin with. now to paint frame Olive drap, turn over order springs and shackles and get some stuff hanging on frame. new topic, looking at the electrical wiring layout. why did they not put in fuses???

[LarrBeard]

I'll bet you will find a circuit breaker in there somewhere.

And, you know the answer to "why not a fuse?". In the back side of the boonies in a driving rain in a mudhole - who has a spare fuse?

[pelago]

have to dig deeper.... not first time... and yeah when i drove one of these things in the mud, blood and beer, never carried a fuse...... one note of interest. In the stud removal on the block i managed to wring one of the studs off, yup damn thing broke off even with the block.
was kinda pissed, but wth. went inside made a cup of coffee then went out and looked at it again. felt i could manage to drill small hole in center if careful. managed to do that, then went up a size in drill bits and made it bigger. now i needed a small 3/16 wide cold chisel, which i did not have, so i took a counter punch for finishing nails and felt that this was pretty tough steel so on a grinder i made a cold cutting chisel out of it, and using a 8oz ball peen hammer worried the remaining steel in the broken stud to eliminate it, by making it break up with small taps using the homemade chisel and got the broken stud out and ready to insert new stud. also took a 38cal bore brush on a drill to clean them all out, thread wise. NOW TO FIND CKT BREAKER AS LarBeard suggested. know tech manual has wiring diagram in it now to get magnifying glass to look, actually have two wiring harness's one pretty bad and one relative good shape

[LarrBeard]

You're a good improviser!

I managed to break the stud in my spotting scope swivel head last week. I'm not as good as improvising as you, so I went to good old Harbor Frate and bought a set of easy-outs for about $9.00. They're not great, but they look like they will be good for a couple of times.

The lady at Harbor Frate said "Have a good day". My reply was "If I need a set of easy-outs by 9:00, I hope the day gets better..."

[LarrBeard]

Here is more than you really wanted to know:

http://www.jeepsurreygala.com/?page_id=1377

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M38/M38A1wiring.pdf

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=11105

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=541


Well, it looks like the M38’s had three circuit breakers – two active and one spare. From what I read, the M38A1 did not include circuit breaker protection – or maybe it was an option – I can’t tell.

The Main breaker feeds the Light Switch – which is the control center for all of the electrical doo-dads. The “Main Light Switch Feed” is Pin F of the connector.

Strangely enough too, the second breaker feeds the horn. Even in the ’48 Truck, the horn is a constant feed from the battery so you don’t have to turn on the ignition to blow the horn to warn someone.

Probably more than you want to know right now.

But, as the one guy wrote – 24-volt systems make a lot bigger cloud of smoke if anything goes wrong!

[pelago]

did you compete at perry or rather indiana,?? could not go dr would not let me damn....

[LarrBeard]

I participated and paid entry fees at Camp Perry - I was never in "competition". Ahhh yes, the smell of 4895 and the rattle of musketry on the morning air.

I have a post about M38 and M38A1 circuit breakers being reviewed. Since there are links in them, I suspect the moderator has to make sure I'm not sending you to anywhere naughty.

Short version: M38 has three breakers on back of instrument cluster. M38A1 may have three breakers up front somewhere - or it may not- depending on version. USMC may be different than anyone else.

Google M38 Circuit Breakers and have a ball...

[pelago]

where you at perry when the whole place had to be shut down so i could me air medevaced due to hemorrhaging artery, helo picked me up behind Vialle

[LarrBeard]

I've been at Camp Perry every year since 1998, but I generally shoot CMP week. I don't think I was there for your exit, but I've heard it so many times I almost believe I was.

"There was this one time at Camp Perry when...".

A piece of shrapnel working its way around if I remember parts of the story?

[pelago]

what was even funnier was when they finally let me out and i got to shoot the 600 last relay in paper clothes, damn nurses cut all my clothes off before i could get a word out

[pelago]

Waiting on parts. slow day, but just did some busy work, bead blasted exterior of oil filter tank, oil fill tube fan. all primed and waiting for paint. Neighbor's father used to have a garage and he loaned me a welder, bead blast cabinet, and engine hoist (grin) oh yeah just for the hell of it, i took a toothpick and some silver paint and painted the timing marks on the front pulley (both motors have a oil filter and both are painted dull red?) dont remember that, but wth. think i will paint those things caterpiller yellow.... why not?

Will have enough saved up to buy complete suspension package from Kaiser Willys 1 Oct, all new stuff then tires and i can roll it around

[pelago]

torque specs?? With the exception of the diesel in my sailboat , the last time i turned a wrench was in 1962 on my souped up 35 ford pick up, had a 53 ford with 3 2-s, eidelbock heads, dual mallory ignition, headman headers. in its day was pretty hot. but dam that was a long time (real long time) now i have the tech manual, and believe me it is not real good nightime reading. No, have not read it cover to cover. Now No where can i find torque specs, am kind of uncomfortable just hanging parts on the engine without torquing. All mr google does is give me torque specs for modern motors. suggestions or what model (todays type) would be close

[LarrBeard]

In the shop manual for the 54-60 series Jeeps (which is typical of most books) torque specs are found in the "D" and "E" sections in the engine reassembly section. (The E section is for the F-head engine).

Most steps have specific values in ft-pounds, but there are places that call out "securely".

[pelago]

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/560x560/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/6/1678_1527_popup_1.jpg

1741
iTS funny,, but i seem to have forgotten the basic rule of maintenance in military, and that is "echelon of maintenance" 1st snf 2nd echelon is basically dusting the thing off. but highte echelons turn wrenches. I had a young 2nd lt check into 10th Marines as a proposed comm officer, and all he ever said was "have the troops do 1st echelon maintenance. I asked him quietly once if he ever had in fact done any 1st echelon maintenance? he said no. I asked him to meet me at the motor pool on saturday, to wear old clothes. He did and I had him do 1st echelon mainenance "by the book" on a MRC110 radio jeep (M151 full of radios). had him take each wheel off, clean lug nut studs, and putr on small layer of grease on each one, remove batteries (both) and clean connectors and battery posts, Oil. Water, clean all contacts with pencil eraser. Real exciting stuff, but it took all day for him to do it. But it gave him an insight on just how boring and mundane doing the same thing to the same radio each and every day was. Training schedule got changed a bit, yeah we did 1st echelon but the training got more intense as practical applications and setting up radios for actual comm was included in training. Not many more days of 1st ech maintenance all day long. The book i have only covers 1st ech, and i was not smart enough to catch that. new manual ordered

[LarrBeard]

If I remember correctly, the MRC-110 had an ARC-51 UHF radio in it to talk to airplanes. In my other life, I was on the team that replaced the vacuum-tube ARC-51 with an ARC-164. The ARC-51 was mounted in what looked a lot like a breadbox or safe.

[pelago]

AN/MRC 110 had two rt 246 and two r 442 receiver, it was a radio relay jeep. bad part about it was it was usually deployed in some remote part of battlefield high up and used as a repeater for weaker radios transmit on one freq and receive another. pretty effective to boost vhf radios over wide area. BUT YOUR *** WAS ALWAYS HANGING OUT AND YOU HAD THIS BIG SIGN THAT SAID SHOOT ME I GOT RADIOS. and they did

[LarrBeard]

Ah yes, the basic VRC-12 package with aux receiver. VRC-12's were built by the zillions at MEMCOR in Huntington, Indiana - one of the places I worked for about 4 months. Magnavox in Fort Wayne built a bunch as well - we had bits and pieces all over the place for years afterwards.

[pelago]

well, i fixed em, then when i got rockers on sleeve under chevrons i taught, then was Bn maint chief, then regt maint chief. then a division inspector, for field analysis system management. I even designed a antenna for the 442 that was adopted and i got a 4400.00 check from beneficial suggestion program. was a pretty good tough radio, that and the old prc 77. i started out carrying a prc10, then 25 in vietnam. My company commander called me into his tent and said "i understand yo have a ham radio license" I said "yessir" he said "why didnt you tell someone?" I said "No one asked".. after a long silence He said "you are now my radio operator" I said "oh ****"

[pelago]

Damn if i didnt wring another stud off!! takes so long to remove busted stud, have to dril it, and with small cold chisel worry it to pieces and then suck it out with shop vac. then when putting on the darn oil filter holder the stud that was on the piece that the whole thing bolts too well, i could not get a nut started on it, and had to take that off, and then grind the (welded bolt head off back) thing to where i could put another fresh bolt in there and weld it. carb linkage on, carb installed. oil lines ordered. decided to match the color of the same oil filter holder that Kaiser sells... and what the heck painted fhe fan same color (had to get busted bolt out of pulley base also. starter, generator, volt reg, fuel lines (jury rig), then see if it will sputter a bit
1742
also wish that they engineers stuck with same size bolts and threads all the way thru. the bolts holding the oil filter stand used 1"X1/4" fine threads, changed them to #8 1 1/4" X 1/4 bolts and nuts, with washers.. put the fan on with stainless bolts (why not)

[pelago]

UNANTICIPATED ISSUE CAME UP.... I am planning on staying with 24VDC I have two 24VDC starters, 2 24VDC regulators, but only one 24VDC generator. Here is the rub, I can remember polarizing voltage regulators, but damn if i can remember how we did it?? I would like to check out starters, I know that all that is needed is to hold them down and kick them with 24VDC and they will either just sit there or fire up. the generator is a different story, have watched battery/gen/alt and starter repair shops just put them in a jig with large electric motor with a fan belt and turn motor on and read the output. Here in Jacksonville NC there is a fine rebuild shop and i have used them for repairing and ordering pieces and parts for my cruising sailboat. However he does not want to touch either starter, reg, generator??? says he does not have nor can get parts. I told him that i was not having him repair them i just want them OP checked, he just does not want to do it. have called every shop within 100 miles (that i could find) no one want to do it???

[LarrBeard]

"I can remember polarizing voltage regulators, but damn if i can remember how we did it?"

Memory is the second thing to go. I can't remember the first - that's probably merciful. I don't remember how either.

Mr. Google says the M38A1 regulator is a three relay Autolite regulator in a funny breadbox. If the regulator has been used, it is probably OK in that it will retain enough residual magnetism to start up in the right state. Google "M38A1 Voltage Regulator" and you will find folks with instructions on how to reset charge voltages and such.

My new regulator didn't have a polarizing label on it - it just went in. (Oh yeah, we replaced that skinny battery cable pretty quickly...)

A quick GO/NO-GO for the generator isn't too hard. There is probably enough residual magnetism in the iron to give a couple of volts if you just spin it and look at the armature (output) terminal, but a little better check just takes one more item.

The Generator is a three terminal Field, Armature and Ground machine, no funky series-compound traction motor/generator device. Once again, Mr. Google will show you which terminal is which. Use a 6-volt lantern battery to excite the field coil. NOT A SIX VOLT VEHICLE BATTERY - TOO MUCH CURRENT CAPACITY! You know that, but that's for the other folks reading this...

Get your big air wrench, drill or whatever and just spin the nut on the drive pulley. Read the Armature voltage with the field coil excited. Volts means it's working. You probably won't get it all the way up to 24-volts, but it will give you a hint. Maybe even build your own electric motor jig ...

Give brushes and commutators a good looking over. Grease bearings and bushings. And, as we found out - they're old and they may work for a while then quit...

"ld like to check out starters, I know that all that is needed is to hold them down and kick them with 24VDC and they will either just sit there or fire up."

For the starter - you're right; tie it down tight, add juice and hold on!

[LarrBeard]

Read These:

http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=9497

https://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=91074

In the regulator - check rectifier (forward-reverse ratio/short/open) and capacitor for short

Look at the picture: On the Generator cable connector:

A and C are the "Hot" terminals.

C is the Field.

Case is Ground.

Don't let the magic smoke out of the boxes and parts

[pelago]

GREAT, AND THANK YOU, BOOKMARKED AND PRINTED SAME. difference in models?? years?? branch of service?? in as much as i have two M38A1. been comparing them piece by piece. one interesting note, the mount and platform for the voltage regulator is somewhat different on the two, one is a flat stamped piece of metal that is more dirt shield than anything else and that is on the 1952 one, the other machine has shock mounted brackets on top of the shield, two flat pieces of !"X1/4" steel with shock mounts and a ground strap on two of the posts, the two pieces of steel are offset some and have studs tapped into them with rubber shock mounts. hmmmmm maybe someone found out something. but i intend to use the same principle on the rebuild. i have some thick nylon backed scrap and will cut out a 1"1/4" square (four of them drill them and use them to replace the dried out ones i have. wont be quite as high as the original but should do same job

[pelago]

OKAY, ANOTHER QUESTION....
as most know i have two M38A1's for pieces and parts. the one built in 1952 has some differences with the other one, not sure when it was built but probably later. The voltage regulator on the 1952 model has small rubber shock absorbers on all four points where the regulator mounts on the plate that is attached to the frame. the later one does not? now did some engineer feel that the regulator has to be protected from shock? the little pieces of rubber (they look like a spool that thread could go on if it were wood) are pretty well shot. now i do in my junk pile have some nylon backed by rubber that i can cut and shape to make new ones. 1" thick rubber and nylon. comments?

[LarrBeard]

I went out and peeked under the hood of the '48 - and then looked in the old parts box as well. All three of the regulators I have are hard mounted - just a metal plate that bolts to the fire wall. I faintly (and maybe inaccurately) remember a vibration isolated mount on some vehicle in my past - it could have been the '50 Dodge though.

Now, were those rubber isolators possibly electrical isolation? The circuit breaker relay and the voltage regulator relay show internal connections to the case. I would strongly suspect that these were meant to be chassis negative (ground) returns). If the case has rubber isolators, how is the ground return handled?

Unless they are there for some electrical reason, I suspect they were examples of overengineering.

[pelago]

Unless they are there for some electrical reason, I suspect they were examples of overengineering. ... two of the shock mounts had typical wire braid conductors to ground, have kept those and they are actually ingood shape, and yes the thing has to be connected to solid ground17641764. not in photo but the base plate and shield actually metal wise okay, cleaned and painted

[LarrBeard]

In another life I did a a lot of work isolating electronics from shock and vibration. That regulator uses three relays which depend on points opening and closing at the right time to do its job. As we know, M38's get vibrated a lot (think bi-directional tires on a hard road) and shocked and bounced a lot ("Hey y'all - watch this...).

Vibration and shock could (and I stress could) make points open and close at the wrong time, so someone could overthink things and make that shock isolated mount. Soft rubber bobbins isolate from high frequency vibration. Harder rubber isolates from shock. A soft rubber bobbin that's aged and hardened changes from a vibration isolator to an shock isolator.

It looks like your little rubber isolators will do a good job - and the wire braid answers our other question about negative chassis return.

Carry on.

[pelago]

What a pain this was,,, so so so frozen, did not want to beat it to death, having control of clutch and brakes kinda important, but got it apart and cleaned, no slop in the movement so should be okay1767 took a whole bottle of propane to heat it up enough to disassemble

[pelago]

there is a skid, protective plate under the master cyl, about 9"X8" not square and has two pieces to attach to frame and to cylinder. the one i have is a mess?? seemed to be two seperate pieces of steel sandwiched together and welded. mine is bad shape, both of them were if you look at diagram it is H. 1768 so this basically will be the before look..1769 another look at the rusty thing 1770

[LarrBeard]

Something hit that really hard to take out that notch! Is the steel hardened? From the fracture it looks so..

[LarrBeard]

Are there any seals to hold grease in the main tube with the zerk?

[pelago]

Are there any seals to hold grease in the main tube with the zerk?
I wondered about that, but there were not seals not even remnants of seals? have not located a blow up of the assembly either. maybe when i get the actual maintenance manual? hopefully there is diagram in there. neither jeep had seals or remnants of seals, curious


just got email from Mike and here is diagram, i sure do not see any seals on there just washers
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/diagram/m38a1-diagrams/clutch-diagrams-willys-m38a1/clutch-control-41-71-willys-jeep/clutch-control-41-71-willys-jeep

went outside to other jeep that still has the assembly on it and there are not visible seals on it?? might get some o rings to go on??

[LarrBeard]

The open ends probably let the old grease, dirt and crud come out when you ad fresh grease. It's a design feature.

[pelago]

been starting to look at the clutch linkage. when i bought these two jeeps neither one had a transmission and transfer case. had to get that separately. consequently i have about ZERO clutch linkage.. this going to be fun. still waiting on maint manual sure do need that now, PICTURES PICTURES PICTURES

[pelago]

been working on the side valve cover, not sure about the gasket, so removed cover and looked inside, not unhappy at what i found, some sludge, not much though. was able to 90% percent out with paper towels, the rest in nooks and crannys that could not access, but cleaned it out quite a bit, all looked good, new gasket installed, Previously i had put marvel mystery oil in cylinder heads and turned crank without plugs in the engine, turned over quite well with a breaker bar and a socket on fly wheel, ratcheted it around for good 15 minutes and then put plugs in, damn, compression made it so so tough to turn over by hand, turned then stopped, pressure to get it through then turned and stopped. encouraged. going to drop oil pan and clean it out and re gasket it.
Got a coat of olive drab on the bottom of the frame, when it dries will turn frame over and another coat of paint. suspension coming soon

[LarrBeard]

When you get the pan off, it might be a good idea to take the tops off the journals and look at the rod and crank bearings to make sure they aren't scored or burned. They will never be any easier to get to than they are right now..

[pelago]

That is a good idea, will do

[pelago]

Progress is as progress is,,,, in a word slow but still. Frame ready to go, sandblasted, two coats of rustoleum rusty metal primer, two coats of Olive Drab. Removed the oil pan and cleaned it, surprising little amount of sludge, mostly in corners, some on bottom maybe 1/4" but now clean and put back on with new gasket, old gasket was cork. Pulled on rod bearing and no surprises there, was very uncomfortable removing this, once told by old mechanic only take them off if you are going to rebuild....179317941795

[LarrBeard]

LATE ANSWER TO OLD QUESTION

I guess a late answer is better than none at all.

We had to replace one new voltage regulator during the ’48 restoration and being the pack rat am, I kept the “new bad one”. In the bottom of the box that had the bad voltage regulator in it was a set of installation instructions that included how to polarize the regulator.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal
Remove wires from terminals noting location of each one
Remove old regulator
Install new regulator
Reattach wires to same terminals as original unit
Reconnect negative battery cable

Polarize Regulator

Obtain an 8-inch piece of 16-gauge or larger jumper wire
Momentarily (no more than 2-econds) touch the jumper wire to both the armature (ARM) terminal and the battery (BAT) terminal. There may be a brief spark, this is normal.
CAUTION: Do not touch the jumper wire to the field terminal (FLD) or ground
Start vehicle and check for proper charging system operation.

I still believe that since the regulators have been in service already, they won’t need to be re-polarized – even after boo-coo years

[pelago]

thanks i printed that and put it in my folder. Now trying to figure this out, why is there a valve in the middle there is oil in there but dont believe it is under pressure, the brass line goies in front of engine and around to a "T" fitting on the intake manifold right under carb?? there is another extension that was broken off and crimped shut on this engine. is this part of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation?? and is the valve for fording? there is not handle on the valve and it is in the open position. so far have not found it in the shop manual??1797
late entry found a reference and some diagrams now more confused my engine no way is the same configuration as described1798
my air filter is NOT configured like this,
do not have the connections that are in manual only one and that comes from oil fill pipe and that should go to air filter

if you look below this, one will see the oil pressure line that goes to the oil filter. i need to get a new hose for this, the old one pretty ragged and will need new hose for the oil return.. might see if i can get onelocally shouldnot be that big a deal (hope)

probably going to have to wing it do have more info in vacume lines1799 there are hoses going everywhere1800

[LarrBeard]

Yep - you found the same pictures I did.

The valves, lines and such that you've found were part of the kit that made the M38 and M38A1 semi-submersible. (The one you drove into the China Sea might have been OK if it hadn't been so deep...). Most people called it the fording kit, but as both of us found out - it was technically called the Engine Venting System and involved just about everything on the vehicle; fuel tank, transfer case, master cylinder, carburetor, distributor and even the valve cover on the side of the engine. Oh yes, windshield wiper motor too.

As I looked at things, there were lot of variations on how the system was configured as the M38A1 was built. Early and late production changed as lines and fittings were added or deleted. The good news is that most of the lines were not needed to just make the vehicle run, so crimped lines and brass plugs can substitute for most of the parts if they are missing.

Yee-Haw.

[pelago]

man there must have been quite a few production changes. i stood in front of my engine and compared photos from the manual that i got, and kept saying "dont have that, dont have that. over and over again. as you stated when i drove that damn thing into the south china sea there were a few geysers coming around us, did not care whether it could ford or not i just drove away from crap coming at us, it finally stalled and we ran (two of us) for cover up the dunes. wonder if tht thing still there, but aint gonna go back and see.
Only thing consistant seems to be fuel supply to the fuel/vacume pump. going to configure it out to basic run status

[LarrBeard]

I have access to two vehicles, one is an M38 of some version - the other may be an M151. Let me look at them and see just how much of that vent system is left on them. That system looks more like a helicopter hydraulic system than a motor vehicle....

Basic run is a good starting place

[pelago]

Basic run is a good starting place

agreed, think so, can always add the other stuff

[pelago]

friday is the big day, i break my piggy bank (after saving) and order complete suspension kit from kaiser willys then will order two rims and four tires,, think i will shop a bit for the tires, 150 bucks for a tire like this seems a bit stiff, but who knows might be all have similar prices

[LarrBeard]

Check for a local Specialty Tires of America. No tires are cheap, but my local STA dealer had good choices in 16-inch tires for the '48 truck.

I put a modest tread road tire on the front and a gnarly truck tread on the back. It has never had this good a set of tires in its life!

I think I have an M38A1 and an M151 to look at for fording kit details.

[pelago]

Piggy bank, colorless, broken bleeding on the floor................. complete suspension kit purchased... and to add this really looks like fun1801
as has been suggested, not all of this is needed to enable engine to run, now i will have to figure out which one i can ??plug off??

[pelago]

Rear end differential and front differential, old gear lube... Now this is a harebrained idea, but it worked. took a old hibachi grill built small charcoal fire in it and put 3 foot under the rear differential, cooked it for 2 hours, moved the grill removed the drain plug and all the gear lube came out HOT man did it flow, think i got it all.. doing front end now, also wrapped the thing in aluminum foil just to make sure heat not direct to differentials, the one i drained i looked inside with pen light and not a drop of gear lube could i find... now to fill it with 2 1/2 pints 90wt

[pelago]

GREAT NEWS spent last three days working on the rear differential and axle, completely down to original (i believe baked on) Olive, all cleaned up, all oil clips and "T" cleaned and serviceable, all put back on in prep for new brake lines, got to the hubs and allways dreaded taking them off, felt that there would be wear so bad would have to get new hubs. LO and BEHOLD absolutely no wear at all, damn thing look new, yeah some surface rust that quickly came off, and i put some of that rust inhibitor/shield/paint prep on them and shot them with some high temp black, but absolutely no wear on them,18031804





once again am using this stuff and i sure do like it and the results....http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/7/24/s_trmt_extend_spray/overview/Loctite-Extend-Rust-Neutralizer-Spray.htm

[pelago]

at first i had planned on sandblasting, but it is so damned heavy and would cost probably 150.00 for both of them, front and rear, i took a look with a wire brush and found that most of the crud was dirt, and when i cleaned it i came to original color olive drab. so i spend three full days super cleaning the rear end differential and axle. then washed in hot sudsy soapy water and rinsed clean and let dry in sun and then used that rust treatment previously mentioned, sure like that stuff, whatever minor surface rust treated, then i painted it in good old crappy olive drab180618071808




if you loook at the pictures can see the front end in same shot, this is sort of a before and after also

[gmwillys]

[QUOTE=pelago;3673]at first i had planned on sandblasting, but it is so damned heavy and would cost probably 150.00 for both of them, front and rear, i took a look with a wire brush and found that most of the crud was dirt, and when i cleaned it i came to original color olive drab. so i spend three full days super cleaning the rear end differential and axle. then washed in hot sudsy soapy water and rinsed clean and let dry in sun and then used that rust treatment previously mentioned, sure like that stuff, whatever minor surface rust treated, then i painted it in good old crappy olive drab180618071808

Harbor Freight sells a drill operated nylon brush, (much like a traditional wire brush) that works really well on all metal surfaces. The brushes sell for $3.99 a piece, and last a long time. I've stripped en entire heep, using a total of five brushes. The brushes do not come apart, heat the metal, nor gouge the metal surfaces. A quick wipe of acetone, and the item is ready for paint. The brushes will power through multi layers of paint easily, cleans surface rust, and chews through bondo too.

[gmwillys]

[QUOTE=pelago;3673]at first i had planned on sandblasting, but it is so damned heavy and would cost probably 150.00 for both of them, front and rear, i took a look with a wire brush and found that most of the crud was dirt, and when i cleaned it i came to original color olive drab. so i spend three full days super cleaning the rear end differential and axle. then washed in hot sudsy soapy water and rinsed clean and let dry in sun and then used that rust treatment previously mentioned, sure like that stuff, whatever minor surface rust treated, then i painted it in good old crappy olive drab180618071808

Harbor Freight sells a drill operated nylon brush, (much like a traditional wire brush) that works really well on all metal surfaces. The brushes sell for $3.99 a piece, and last a long time. I've stripped en entire heep, using a total of five brushes. The brushes do not come apart, heat the metal, nor gouge the metal surfaces. A quick wipe of acetone, and the item is ready for paint. well on sheet metal and cast iron.

[pelago]

DAMN!! The little flat screws that hold the drum are frozen solid, heat (20 minutes) did not budge them,,, but reason heat not working is the actual part that needs heating is the damn hub, can not get to it. gonna have to drill the damn things

[gmwillys]

In regards to removing paint from the axles, sheet metal, and steel. Harbor Freight sells nylon brushes that are used in a drill. The are $3.99 each, and on the average heep, I've used five to completely remove paint. The brushes are either 80 or 120 grit. The brushes do not heat the metal, and do not remove any metal. The metal surface just needs to be wiped with solvent, and is ready for paint. No sand in crevasse, doesn't harden sheet metal by peening, and no sharp wire shrapnel impaling soft tissue. The brushes come in flat or cup brushes. They cut through multi layers of paint, rust, and bondo.

[pelago]

HEY, APPRECIATE THAT!!! HERE IS MY SANDBLASTED PARTS.1832 i DO HAVE A MONSTER JOB AHEAD AND THAT IS THE TUB, FENDERS AND HOOD DONE AND PRIMER-ED18331834

[pelago]

think i just did a good thing. in Wilmington NC i found a surplus store and the old guy that started it is a WWII and Korea vet. he has a restored M38A1 that he rents out to movie people and we sort of hit it off and i got a complete transmission, transfer case and emergency brake for $250.00 us dollars, checked it out and looked inside and clear 90 wt and no steel shavings.. he is looking in his warehouse for other parts and pieces

[LarrBeard]

Look at how those vent lines are routed!

Remember - pure blind luck overcomes planning and forethought

[pelago]

doing that now. now here is one? Tie rod ends, seems that the front end tie rods are all frozen, as far as adjusting in and out, am working on freeing them up, have loosened the lock down bolt and that is now moving okay, and have widened the gaps that compress the end, Hopefully with patience and a BFH i will get the whole thing to move and then can clean up the threads and put some lube on there to be able to adjust. BUT WHAT CONSTITUTES A BAD TIE ROD END, ALL OF THEM SEEM TIGHT AND WILL MOVE (INSIDE THE SOCKET AND BALL). Can get them but if dont need to spend money would rather not. most of the rubber umbrella to keep grease inside are bad but feeding the ZIRCS would re introduce grease into the thing???? HAD TO MOVE THE REAR END DIFFERENTIAL ABOUT 40 FEET... SURE HOPE I DID NOT BOTCH UP HERNIA. DAMN THING HAS TO WEIGH 300 LBS, but it is sitting under frame and going to rehang the thing this week

[pelago]

still sore from moving the rear end .. but now hanging parts, rear end assembled, not all tight but hanging there18351836

[gmwillys]

Another Harbor Freight item, (I don't work for them, just I tend to be cheap) are the furniture casters. Doing differential work, they make life a whole lot easier. I have all sorts of different cast or cart set ups to move my crap around. My wagon is set upon a cart that started off as a man lift base. The body is easily moved around, but is stable enough to perform body work upon. I work alone, so I have to figure out how to do all this by myself. Doing all this work on our seasoned iron is only worth it if you are able to enjoy it when it's finished.

18371838

Surplus stores are an excellent source of parts and information. The guys that have been in business for years, have seen and heard of where all the good stuff is hiding. You did well on your purchase. I'm going to look into some of my notes to see if I have anything on your vent line conundrum.

[pelago]

built one to push engine around, probably need one for the tub

[gmwillys]

Here is a descent diagram on the routing of the vent lines on an A1. The link to the forum is as follows; http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=52169

[gmwillys]

On the same site (Willys Military Jeeps), there is a gentleman that is selling vent lines. He has them by part number, from the SNL G758 manual.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=4806

[pelago]

GOT IT AND THANKS!!!! Now am trying to also figure out the clutch assembly, took the bell housing off and did find one issue. one of the bolts holding pressure plate on was missing and the reason missing is damn thing broken off in flywheel. Oh Joy another broken bolt to spend several hours doing. Now i have seen the pictorial diagram and it is helping with the linkage however am cloudy on the throw out bearing.. any good photos out there of this. there is a fork and i have two of them used in the control cable, but what does the fork pivot on? BTW the clutch i looked at is in great shape, really do not think i need a new one, same with pressure plate. springs are monster stiff

[pelago]

ALWAYS SOMETHING
felt that things were going okay, got a ton done, and then wanted to pull last drum, the other three came off without too much trouble, NOW THIS SOB WONT BUDGE, STARTED AT 10 AM AT 6PM STILL BEATING ON IT,,, IT DOES MOVE JUST WONT SLIDE OFF1885

[LarrBeard]

Do you have the adjusters for the brake linings/shoes turned to pull the shoes off the drum? I have had shoes/linings hang up on a little groove at the edge of the drum, especially if the drum needed to be turned.

[pelago]

i believe that they are loose, but damn thing is loose but just will not come off The other three drums hardly showed any wear at all... next step C4

[gmwillys]

Kaiser Willys sells a hub puller that is worth its weight in gold. I have used one on several sets of axles, and have not had one that would not come apart. Some were so rusted together, that a rose bud torch head was needed to warm things up enough for the hub puller to work effectively.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/category/brakes/hub-puller/heavy-duty-rear-hub-puller-fits-46-86-jeep-willys

[LarrBeard]

Ah yes, C4, just about as useful as duct tape.

There was this one guy using a tab of C4 to warm a canteen cup. Of course it stunk (stank?). Sgt said "Put that stuff out". Soldier stomped it to put it out. Bad move.

Carry on. We're rootin' for you!

[pelago]

damn this is one of the front hubs, think?? maybe a shoe is hung up and causing problems

there is this??
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/new-front-wheel-hub-puller-tool-fits-46-86-jeep-willys just not sure how to use it, no way can get that lip under hub edge???

if i use this thing i will have to replace every cock eyed gasket in the whole front end that gets pricey???
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/diagram/m38a1-diagrams/axle-diagrams-willys-m38a1/front-axle-wheel-connecting-parts/front-axle-wheel-connecting-parts

[pelago]

http://legacy.1942gpw.com/c-84-G503_WWII_Jeep_Removing_Front_Brake_Drum.aspx

this look right?

[pelago]

Before and after TOOK FOREVER TO LOOSEN THE TIE ROD ENDS, WHEN LOOSE AND CLEANED THEY SEEMED QUITE GOOD AND TIGHT, ORDERED NEW RUBBER CUPS FOR THE BALL JOINTS
1892189318941895

[pelago]

HELP!!!!
Who knows how to let the smoke out of wheel cylinders, since in between funding for parts and pieces decided to pull one brake cylinder out and take a look. HOW IN THE HELL DO THEY COME APART!! GOT THE BLOW UP OF A CYLINDER BUT HOW DOES IT COME APART TO LET SMOKE OUT. In reality i think that they are toast, but who knows1896

[LarrBeard]

Pop the boots off of one end and just poke things out the other end.

If things won't poke, its probably full of dried up smoke.

Put the wheel cylinder in a vise, get a dowel or whatever and apply a hammer. The two pistons, cups and a spring should come out the other end. If things aren't too corroded, just clean it up and go. Otherwise - new cylinders...

Hopefully they are just full of dried up gummy hydraulic gunk.....

[pelago]

SCORE, GORPED UP WHEEL CYLINDER 1, ME 0. TORE UP A PERFECTLY GOOD SOCKET, GOT THE DAMN THING TO MOVE, BUT ONLY 1/2" EITHER WAY. This one pretty well shot, but am gonna get it apart so that the next one might be easier. got a total of eight (now seven) that i can beat to death.. might just be instead of 10.00 x 4 it will be 30.00 times four. Wonder if i could go to a machine shop and see if they could move them with a hydraulic press????? might be worth a call???

[gmwillys]

Typically, it is worth it to purchase new wheel cylinders. The best bet is to purchase American made replacement wheel cylinders, (Wagner)but the china made cylinders work also. The china made cylinders are alright, but 9 times out of 10, the mounting holes, and the bleeder do not match up with the backer plate. The original wheel cylinders are usually a pain, because with jeep not being in service, moisture settles in the wheel cylinders. Rust envelopes the pistons, and make it near impossible to get them to come apart. If you do manage to get them apart, then you need to run a cylinder hone through, to remove any imperfections. Most of the time, the bores are too far gone to hone all the scratches out. The bores will become oversized, and then difficult to seal. I have seen oversized seal kits in the past, but have not looked for them for a long time. A machine shop can sleeve the wheel cylinder, then bore it to stock size, but it will cost more than a good replacement.

[LarrBeard]

Concur - but a guy has to try just to see what's going on.

Making sure a Jeep stops is really just as important as making it runin the first place.

[pelago]

You are both absolutely correct, just galls me that i can not fix the damn things

[pelago]

Am about 1/2 dozen needed parts to drop engine into the frame, some clutch parts and clutch linkage

[gmwillys]

Years ago, working in a Ford tractor shop, we used to rebuild in house all of the starters and generators. Then the parts became hard to get through the Ford network. Now, all you can do is take it to a shop and they have to get aftermarket parts and brushes. Moral of the story, we used to rebuild everything, but being a throw away society, we are left with fewer choices. The cost to do things ourselves, often times outweighs the worth of the part. I checked to see what a local machine shop would charge to sleeve a wheel cylinder, and bore it to size. They estimated $85.... Then asked why would you want to use an old part.

[pelago]

AGREE, TOO MUCH TOSSED. but this old critter getting new face with old parts. many cases even the original bolts and nuts, however on stress items got new bolts like holding pressure plate to flywheel those were new #8's

[pelago]

1903 curious, one would think that this plug is for 90wt gear oil, but when i opened it and stuck finger in there it was grease???

[LarrBeard]

I'm not all that familiar with the 4WD Jeeps, but a while back when I was looking somewhere, there was an extended discussion about lubricant for steering knuckles - which is what I think that picture shows.

(If it's not ... ???)

The discussion described a concoction they called "knuckle pudding" - a mixture of a heavy oil (90W130?) and a grease. The gist of the discussion was that things need something of a consistency between heavy oil and grease.

Start here for more than you want to know:

https://cj3b.info/Tech/SteeringKnuckles.html

[LarrBeard]

Jax: You might check out John Deere, they make a lubricant called Special-Purpose Corn Head Gun Grease -- AN102562.

SPM1US: My .02 is for the John Deere Corn Head grease. It is designed to lubricate the knuckle bearings, not the wheel bearings, and contains "Moly" (Molybdendum Disulphide) which is a superior additive for extreme pressure and anti-wear. The 14 oz tubes can be had for less than $4 last I bought them, delivered to your door or go visit your local JD dealer. The viscosity of the Corn Head grease works quite well in the closed knuckle application.

Frank: The characteristic of both the 0 and 00 "liquid grease" or "fluid grease" is what is called thixotropic. The lubricant is gelatinous until agitated, or stirred. The John Deere Corn Head fluid grease is a similar product used in corn harvesting equipment. It has the same thixotropic properties.

One of the reasons this stuff stays in the closed steering knuckles is that it liquifies where the universal joint spins in it. It is thrown upwards to the upper steering knuckle bearing and the lower bearing is immersed in it. The movement of knuckle steering back and forth forced the liquified grease through the bushing into the hub and the wheel bearings, lubricating them as well as any 70 to 140 wt gear lube could.

But where it is not agitated much around the seals it maintains more of a, here is that word again, "pudding" consistency. It wets the ball enough to provide the sliding wipe of the rubber seal keeping the ball surfacing from wearing excessively and keeping the grit wiped away. But, it doesn't run out of seams and minor wear gaps like the honey consistency of the straight gear lubes.

[gmwillys]

The John Deere corn head grease is good stuff, although I never thought about putting it in the closed knuckles. Learn something new every day. Thank you for the tip.

[pelago]

Jax: You might check out John Deere, they make a lubricant called Special-Purpose Corn Head Gun Grease -- AN102562.

SPM1US: My .02 is for the John Deere Corn Head grease. It is designed to lubricate the knuckle bearings, not the wheel bearings, and contains "Moly" (Molybdendum Disulphide) which is a superior additive for extreme pressure and anti-wear. The 14 oz tubes can be had for less than $4 last I bought them, delivered to your door or go visit your local JD dealer. The viscosity of the Corn Head grease works quite well in the closed knuckle application.

Frank: The characteristic of both the 0 and 00 "liquid grease" or "fluid grease" is what is called thixotropic. The lubricant is gelatinous until agitated, or stirred. The John Deere Corn Head fluid grease is a similar product used in corn harvesting equipment. It has the same thixotropic properties.

One of the reasons this stuff stays in the closed steering knuckles is that it liquifies where the universal joint spins in it. It is thrown upwards to the upper steering knuckle bearing and the lower bearing is immersed in it. The movement of knuckle steering back and forth forced the liquified grease through the bushing into the hub and the wheel bearings, lubricating them as well as any 70 to 140 wt gear lube could.

But where it is not agitated much around the seals it maintains more of a, here is that word again, "pudding" consistency. It wets the ball enough to provide the sliding wipe of the rubber seal keeping the ball surfacing from wearing excessively and keeping the grit wiped away. But, it doesn't run out of seams and minor wear gaps like the honey consistency of the straight gear lubes.

KNEW NONE OF THIS!! Have a john deere place here in town will get some and make sure the knuckle is well lubricated. learn something new every day
got new rubber boots/ball joint cover and installed same, all ball joints are pretty damn tight and in some cases put new grease fittings on, but all lubricated and can manully turn the wheels using the arm only,,, little stiff but that is good

[LarrBeard]

I'd guess between you, me and gmwillys - we have close to 200 years of skinned knuckles and talkin' (cussin' at) old Jeeps in our background - and we all have something to learn!

[pelago]

one thing i have to question, is to do a clutch job seems like one would have to pull the entire power plant out., say a bad throwout bearing or a actual clutch disk. seems lot of work to do this,,,, but never have done it, and it might actually be the easiest way, considering the floor actually prevents the "pulling back the bell housing and tranny". just a observation Ordering the clutch bellcrank system/kit and the throw out bearing and the return spring and the clutch release bearing sleeve , already have the "Y" that is the fulcrum..... THEN I CAN MOUNT THIS PUPPY ON THE FRAME!!! AND JUST NOT TOO FAR AWAY FROM HEARING EXHAUST. Looking forward to hearing it run and letting it get to temperature and then run for 20 minutes or so and draining oil and filter and refill with new 30wt. Additives to the oil?? I rebuilt a Kubota diesel for my sailboat, was a simple 4cyl diesel and i had a incredible maintenance shop manual. explained everything and had pictorial of each remove/install for the whole thing... had engine dipped and miked at a performance machine shop and found that needed to go up in piston size. same rods but new pistons, new bearings after crank turned and a valve job. I ran this diesel for 10,000 hours and when i sold the boat (cried) the prospective owner wanted a compression check before giving me cash dollars. said no problem but suggest that a independant mechanic do it so that there could be no conflict, and that would put any issue to bed. when i put this thing together, i did a cmp test and wrote the results in my maint manual handed the manual to the mechanic to write new readings on each jug, and this guy was astonished, the engine had not lost ANY compression ..... Mechanic asked me about oil changes and i said every 100 hours drain and refill with URSA 30wt 5 quarts and a quart of marvel mystery oil. and of course new filter, and all of that was in mylog books and they were open to read. ( i kept them, my boat, my memories, my logs).. but that key fact 100 hrs and change for 10,000 hours is a lot of oil sure, but that is the key to long lasting life for a motor. 1909191019091911

[LarrBeard]

Yeah, if we want our things (toys and such) to last, we need to take care of them.

Too bad we weren't that careful with ourselves.

None of the manuals I've seen call for anything more exotic than 30W oil (in modern oil I've gone to 10W30). The F134 is a low compression, low speed engine that isn't worked as hard as your Kubota diesel. I really don't know if a magic synthetic oil is warranted.

As for intervals - if we look at your 100 hour change interval - and guess that an M38A1 is going to average about 30 mph - we're at the 3000 mile oil change interval that seems to be pretty standard for us conservative people today. I do agree with your "run it until it gets good and hot, then change the oil" approach. There is stuff in there that is going to come out quickly - and some that will stay a lot longer. The partial flow oil filter will catch some, so dump it at the first change as well.

[pelago]

DID SOMETHING!!! Knowing that at times going to have to get into the inspection port on the bell housing, and light and actually seeing what is going on means a lot, wth i painted the inside of the bell housing white. bakedit in the overn for three hours, pretty hard now.... why not, sure going to get some dust and crud, but seeing whats going on pretty important also Did that on my 1935 ford pick up and it worked

[gmwillys]

On an original engine, without a known maintenance history, a 30 wt. non detergent oil is recommended. Tractor Supply still offers it in a 2 gallon jug. The brand is Traveler oil, and goes for $20.00. After an engine is rebuilt, then one would be free to use whatever you want to use. A good synthetic would be my choice, just for the simple fact that the engine will go through periods of sitting. The synthetic is less likely to pull moisture from the environment. With your history of maintenance, your A1 will be in A1 shape.

On changing a clutch in chassis, it is possible. On a M38A1, the transmission cover is twice the size of a civilian Jeep. With that being said, one would really hate themselves to perform a clutch change this way. By the time you unbolt the transmission from the engine, drop the cross member, and slide the transmission out. The engine would be out, and ready for close inspection. The nice thing about the early M38A1, is that the engine is easily pulled out as a assembly. The grill is hinged, making everything is accessible. Just one thing to keep in mind, when performing a clutch job, have the fly wheel surface ground. This will ensure that your clutch will live a long, trouble free life. As long as you keep up with adjustments from time to time. The adjustment procedure is covered under TM 9-8014 page 231 par. 191.

[pelago]

ONE OTHER THING??? Gasoline, these things were made long before unleaded. They all used full bore lead in the gas, now would people advise a adiitve to supplant the lead problem. I had atomic four gas engine originally in my sailboat, old old style flathead four cylinder. did replace it with a kubota, but we got some kind of additive and damn if i can remember what it was.... and the grain fed gas, avoid it and go with 93 octane that is alcohol free or it is advertised as such??

[gmwillys]

Lead additive is the best route to take, unless you are having engine work done. A machine shop can install hardened valve seats, so that unleaded fuel can be used. The lead acted as a cushion between the valve and seat.
The local parts stores do carry bottles of the lead additive, but good luck asking the kid behind the counter. They just look at you as if you were asking for their nose ring. Most of the time, the bottle is at the top of their additive/snake oil display, under a layer of dust.
One of the local gas stations where I'm located, sells 100% 89 octane gasoline. I not only run it through my Heeps, but also through my small engines. The alcohol in the gas plays havoc with old carburetors. If the fuel is left in the bowl, the alcohol will corrode the aluminum, leaving a white goopy mess. Another thing to keep in mind, is that modern blended gasoline is only good for about two weeks. The alcohol content, (10%) breaks down the remaining 90% of gas to the point that the octane rating reduces, the longer it sits. Fuel stabilizers help to reduce the break down of the gasoline. As with your sailboat, when you switched to the Kubota diesel, the fuel is much more stable. The fuel is able to be stored for far longer, without the fuel breaking down.

[pelago]

NEW HELP, NEW TOPIC....
was able to obtain front drive shaft for front diff. and rear drive shaft, good price.. (compared to nearly 400.00) here is the rub. have no idea how to remove the old "U" joints. they have a retaining ring on outside and know that this will have to be removed on both sides. drive out with a old socket or a piece of bronze?? dont want to screw them up

have never removed this type did see some random videos but not this kind, others had retaining ring on inside and were not quite this rusty, would think that they are driven out but starting opposit the grease fitting
19451946

[pelago]

new treasures. transmission, with trsansfer case and emergency brake, front drive shaft, and rear drive shaft, both taillights (broke them open and both looked brand new inside) (right and left) 24volt horn, one cat eye for front all for $450.00

[gmwillys]

A good soaking with PB Blaster will help. Needle nose pliers, a pick, a good vise, a larger diameter socket for the U-joint to go into, and a piece of steel or socket that fits inside of the U-joint bore. On these older drive shafts, the U-joint does come out rather easily using this method. A little bit of heat may be needed if they are stubborn. Most of the time, I end up using the stake pocket on my car trailer to set the drive shaft on. Then I use a steel punch that is slightly smaller than the I.D. of the U-joint bore. To me, steel works better because it transfers the force of the hammer blow more effectively. The shock that the steel delivers works to get things moving. I have a large diameter punch that plugs into my air hammer. This works well on the stubborn, rusted U-joints. The shafts are strong enough to withstand a large amount of force, so don't be afraid to put the hammer to the U-joint. When you drive the U-joint out, push towards the side without the grease zerk, (or remove it completely) this will give you just enough room to push the cap all the way through the outside of the drive shaft. Next turn the drive shaft over to the side that you started on, and drive the U-joint cross back through to push the cap out that side.

When installing the new joint, start by running a piece of emery cloth through to clean up the bore. This will aid in installing the new joint. Next remove the caps from the new joints, and ensure that there is plenty of grease to help retain the needle bearings in place, just in case the cap falls off before installation. Place one of the snap rings into the bore, this will act as a stop for the cap when being installed. Then install one cap on the side you intend to install first. Place the cross in the drive shaft yoke, with the one cap on the inside of the bore. Install the remaining cap on the outside of the yoke, where the U-joint is sticking out. Drive or press the U-joint into place, until the cap comes into contact with the snap ring. Install the other snap ring on the opposing bore. Install grease zerk, and grease until the rubber seals start to expand. Grease does not need to be visible from the caps, to prevent grease from being thrown as you drive.

[pelago]

OKAY, GONNA GIVE IT A SHOT!!! Was worried about gorping a 389.00 drive shaft

[pelago]

1949

inside bell housing, new throwout bearing bearing carrier, fork, and new return spring and cable

[gmwillys]

Looks good. I like the idea of the white coating for inside the bell housing.

[pelago]

actually that is baked on rustoleum many hours in oven at 250.00.. got real hard. thought it might help in seeing what is going on inside. thanks

[gmwillys]

Well done. Hopefully you won't have to utilize the white coating to help trouble shoot, but if you ever have to, you will be able to see what's going on within the bell housing.

[pelago]

STUPID QUESTION NUMBER 43.....
U joints,, what holds them?? all i see is "U" bolts, never ever saw a bolt holding a U joint in? always a machined forging with two bolt holes. someone out there knows but i sure dont??????

When i put this in the frame i will free up my little scrap built dolly and will take the other motor out and put on dolly and be able to rebuild it from crank on up.. rebuilding these old motors fun,,, rebuilt a 35 ford V8, 1932 Graham Paige straight six with supercharger, 49 ford V8, 34 Chrysler coupe with straight 8 and a 1946 Ford convertable V8.. those old motors are tough

[gmwillys]

I don't believe you've asked a dumb question yet. With 60hp, and 105 lbs. ft. of torque, the U joints are safe with the U bolts. The yokes with the block style, (cast keeper with two through bolts) are stronger, but A lot of modern vehicles utilize the same set up as the Jeeps. The U bolts are remarkably sturdy, when they remain tight. The nuts being on the back side of the yoke, tends to protect them from being damaged by road or trail hazards.

I have a love affair with most all engines. The vintage engines are the most interesting to me. Babbitt bearings is a lost art. Cutting and measuring shim stock for setting the clearances of rods and mains is another. Ford flat heads are an engineering marvel. They produce a sound that is like no other. The supercharged six and straight eights are another favorite. The engineering that went into making it all live together, (with a slide rule instead of computer) is amazing. We don't have the same caliber of bright individuals, coming up with these designs. If the electricity were to ever stop flowing, we wouldn't be able to engineer anything.

[LarrBeard]

Oooohhhhh ... pretty.

[pelago]

my 35 ford pick up, (bought from a farmer in door county wisconsin for $40.00) had to stop at every other gas station to get waste oil.. could see it coming with the blue smoke.. starter kept hanging up and i had to crawl under and move the bendix all the time. a farmer stopped once when i was doing that and said "son what in the hell are you doing" told him and he told me to put it in reverse and rock it forward that would cause the bendix to got back.... he was right. a year later it had a 49 flathead in it, 3 -2 barrelled carbs mallory dual point ignition edelbrock heads (finned ) and dual 36" cherry bombs. and i put a radio in it, (cant cruise the local hangout without a radio tuned to WLS with dick biondi in chicago land without the radio) when i was in Vietnam she sold all of my cars to some guy for 400.00!!!!!.. but the truck really sounded great

[gmwillys]

First things first. Thank you for your service to our country. I too would often listen to WLS, but it would only come in when the weather was just right. Dave Dahl was the morning drive host in the late seventies/early eighties. The 46 CJ2A that I still have was purchased in Bartonville IL, back in around 1985. We drove it home, but it too was burning more oil than gas. We put it in storage in the garage for about ten years. We had purchased a CJ3A from Wisconsin, while traveling the back roads on our way to Oshkosh for the Fly In. The 3A was a basket case, and the body was completely trashed. It was used at their local airport for snow removal around the airport. Below the windshield was hand painted "Beware Helicopter Pilot". Dad spent a couple of years getting the drive train all back together, in order to use it around the home place. By that time we had acquired a Dodge M37 from the local fire department. It was a fun cruiser with only 11,000 miles on it. From there He purchased another CJ3A/M38 clone from a local guy who had purchased the kit from the Philippines. The frame and body were aftermarket, but the drivetrain was from a donor Jeep. The body was odd, in the matter that it had dash features of an M38, but no provisions for a battery box in the cowl. I suppose it was to circumvent the copyright that AMC/Chrysler had on the Jeep image and design.

[gmwillys]

First things first. Thank you for your service to our country. I too would often listen to WLS, but it would only come in when the weather was just right. Dave Dahl was the morning drive host in the late seventies/early eighties. The 46 CJ2A that I still have was purchased in Bartonville IL, back in around 1985. We drove it home, but it too was burning more oil than gas. We put it in storage in the garage for about ten years. We had purchased a CJ3A from Wisconsin, while traveling the back roads on our way to Oshkosh for the Fly In. The 3A was a basket case, and the body was completely trashed. It was used at their local airport for snow removal around the airport. Below the windshield was hand painted "Beware Helicopter Pilot". Dad spent a couple of years getting the drive train all back together, in order to use it around the home place. By that time we had acquired a Dodge M37 from the local fire department. It was a fun cruiser with only 11,000 miles on it. From there He purchased another CJ3A/M38 clone from a local guy who had purchased the kit from the Philippines. The frame and body were aftermarket, but the drivetrain was from a donor Jeep. The body was odd, in the matter that it had dash features of an M38, but no provisions for a battery box in the cowl. I suppose it was to circumvent the copyright that AMC/Chrysler had on the Jeep image and design

[gmwillys]

First things first. Thank you for your service to our country. I too would often listen to WLS, but it would only come in when the weather was just right. Steve Dahl was the morning drive host in the late seventies/early eighties. The 46 CJ2A that I still have was purchased in Bartonville IL, back in around 1985. We drove it home, but it too was burning more oil than gas. We put it in storage in the garage for about ten years. We had purchased a CJ3A from Wisconsin, while traveling the back roads on our way to Oshkosh for the Fly In. The 3A was a basket case, and the body was completely trashed. It was used at their local airport for snow removal around the airport. Below the windshield was hand painted "Beware Helicopter Pilot". Dad spent a couple of years getting the drive train all back together, in order to use it around the home place. By that time we had acquired a Dodge M37 from the local fire department. It was a fun cruiser with only 11,000 miles on it. From there He purchased another CJ3A/M38 clone from a local guy who had purchased the kit from the Philippines. The frame and body were aftermarket, but the drivetrain was from a donor Jeep. The body was odd, in the matter that it had dash features of an M38, but no provisions for a battery box in the cowl. I suppose it was to circumvent the copyright that AMC/Chrysler had on the Jeep image and design


Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. Name: M38A1 013.jpg Views: 0 Size: 97.8 KB ID: 1957 Click image for larger version. Name: Holly 361.jpg Views: 0 Size: 96.3 KB ID: 1958

[LarrBeard]

Pelago:

We are of an age that can still appreciate WLS radio in Chicago (The Mighy 890). I was from West Tennessee and in the mid 60's WLS was the clear channel station for mid America on 890 KHz. Daytime radio was WHBQ in Memphis, but at local sunset - in came WLS. (One of my posts about the '48 had a story about Bubba and his girlfriend watching the submarine races while they listened to WLS - and burning the points in the flathead Ford - and having the sheriff come out to find them).

Biondi (known as the Wild Italiano) came on at 9:00 PM with what was, for the 1960's, a show that just at the edge of propriety. I remember the night that Biondi went over the edge slamming Art Roberts, probably the program director at the time, and got relieved at the 10:00 commercial break.

Try explaining to today's kids night time AM radio ....

Try explaining Jeeps to most of today's kids .....

[pelago]

yeah... and cruising Skips of First ave in chicago or Mac Donalds where everyone backed in to the slot to show off car.. never got my pick up to a classy view status, but it did run... and
in case anyone trying to figure out what all this costs jeep restore. at this point in my rebuild i have a total of 3900.00 in it and that includes the 1400.00 purchase for the two jeeps originally. brakes, wireing, tires, body left to do now that is what i have spent in 2 years. don't think that it is excessive, and i have included all expenses including sand blasting, and trailer rental, even individual washers and bolts, so it is accurate. plus i have a complete spare motor including transmission

[gmwillys]

The Willys Jeep hobby isn't as expensive as say building a newer TJ would be. The parts are out there, and relatively inexpensive. Word of mouth works better than shopping on the computer. Everyone knows someone with a Jeep hidden out in the back forty. When we started work on the 52 M38A1, it didn't take long for donor vehicles to come out of the woodwork. We were able to find three that were within the time frame for the grill hinges, (two or three model years, if I remember correctly) and the correct front fenders. All were purchased for not a lot of money. $3900 is a good price for what you have accomplished. Much cheaper than any other habits.

Try explaining setting points, tach and dwell, and six volt batteries. Especially at the auto parts store.....

My mind is full of otherwise useless information. Does anyone know what the WLS stands for? The hint is that the radio station was started by Sears and Roebuck, in order to get rural farmers to purchase radios through the catalogue.

Answer: Worlds largest Store.

[LarrBeard]

Oh boy ...

We should all three just go off and sit in our rocking chairs somewhere.

Then there was WOWO, here in Fort Wayne Indiana - the Fifty-thousand watt voice of the big business of farming! I first heard WOWO one early morning in 1968 about three days out of Norfolk heading home on an old ammunition ship. We had an old Radio 3 receiver (probably an RBB) that we used as our entertainment and I had it on a 350-foot long wire antenna. There this station was, with that wavery, fading signal that is typical of an AM signal that is coming a long way. (Pelago - you recognize that).

We held it two mornings, then the guys from Jersey wanted to listen to NY stations.

I never figured I'd end up in Fort Wayne ....

I went out and started the '48 this afternoon and let it warm up. I opened up the heater valve and made sure that it worked. I have a problem - it sounds like it only starts on two cylinders, then picks up another - then all four. If I'm lucky it's a fouled plug. If not - maybe a sticky valve.

Of course it waits until snow is forecast to do this.

[pelago]

had a 56 pontiac that had a stuck valve, old gas station guy said pour a can ot STP down the carb while running and it would free the valve up, he was right it worked, smoked like hell but too many mosquitoes anyway. that engine wound up in a 1946 ford convertable with a 4 speed chevy transmission (one of the cars my mother sold)

[gmwillys]

We were too cheap for STP. Water drizzled down the carb would knock the carbon loose, just don't add it too fast.

WIRL 1290 AM was our local radio station. It was great until the mid 90's, then it became all talk all the time. Doctor shows and farm reports were the only thing on from then on. The service truck I had only had an AM radio, but I wasn't excited to listen to Dear Abby on the radio.

[pelago]

195919601961

motor and frame now one!!! engine is in!! think i will name this thing busted gut or BG for short, tuff stuff when alone and there is a little ramp to go into garage and that made it tough, used a come long to get up ramp

[gmwillys]

Excellent work. She is really coming together.

[pelago]

i bet that darn motor and trans weighs more than two of modern 4 cyl,,, heavy heavy heavy. Years ago i had to rebuild a chevy vega, crappy little car with a mis match engine, steel block but aluminum head, but the point of this is, i could actually pick up the block and lift it out of the car. I am not sure that two grown strong men with a lifting bar and block chained to it could lift the engine and Xfer case of a m38a1... My engine hoist did it no problem but moving it (hoist and all) was not easy, probably because of little wheels on hoist, but non the less it was not easy and now i will lift the other engine out of the spare m38a1 and put it on the skid that i have....
Did something today that have never done, used one of those thread kits to rethread the rocker arm that holds the stud that keeps the valve cover from leaking, mine was pretty bad, took rocker arm off and recut threads and inserted new threads and re installed rocker arm (after blowing out all the pieces and parts with air) now the darn thing wont leak.... i know could have bought a new one but wth rather fix than buy

[gmwillys]

These engines/transmissions/transfer case were made with good American steel/cast iron. They are heavy, but they last forever. Once a pon a time, I had friends that raced the local dirt track circuit. We raced in the Sportsman division, so we used a 355 SBC, with a 525 lift cam. We did have a spare engine, but we used it in the truck used to pull the car to the track. The spare utilized all the same hook ups that the race car did, minus the transmission. The season championship night came, and we went out for the heat race. The engine in the car developed a head gasket leak, and was down on power. We decided to perform an engine swap before the feature race. Four of us attacked the car and the truck at the same time, for the engine swap. Two of us prepped the truck for the removal, and two on the car. We took two floor jack handles, and made a cradle to lift the engine out. Two guys per side lifted the engine out of the car, and set it on the trailer. Then we went and pulled the engine of the truck. The truck was much more difficult, because of the height of the truck compared to the car. We were able to set the engine in, plumb it, and have it running within an hour. We made it out on the track and placed third in the feature. The only problem was that we had to put the original wounded engine in the truck, just to get home. It was a long night. In a related story, we were preparing mid week to run a 100 lap memorial race, that had a descent pay out. We were prepping the engine for the race, and found an issue with the passenger side head. We looked under the bench for our stash of engine parts and only found a one ported passenger side 305 head. We were in crunch time by this point, so it was decided to go for broke, and install the 305 head. The budget was already gone through with shock and tire purchases, so there was no more money left, or enough time to prep a new head. We assembled the engine, then loaded up the car. We pushed the car to the weigh scale, and opted out of the mud laps. The first start of the car was when we went to the heat race. The engine sounded odd, but ran with plenty of power. Since we didn't go out for mud laps, we had to start at the rear of the field. He quickly weaved his way through the crowd of 10 cars, within the 10 laps. As soon as the checkered flag dropped, he shut down the engine, and was pushed into the pit. We went through and adjusted the valves with it hot, and then let it rest until the feature. For the last race, we started at the mid pack, outside row. When the green flag was dropped, the car took off again. He quickly ran toward the front, and maintained a sizable lead. Over the coarse of the race, the engine did fine. Towards the end of the race, the engine started to puff a bit out of the right side header, when the throttle was released. The longer the race went on, the more the passenger side head was smoking. The lead was starting to diminish, but by the time the checkered flag, the second place car was hot on his heals. He was able to hold them off, and win the race. When we tore down the engine, the passenger bank piston rings were pretty much burnt up, and the crank bearings showed much more wear than the left bank. The difference in compression between the two sides, made the engine unbalanced. It was a good test of theory, with an interesting outcome.

An engine hoist is worth its weight in gold. I use mine for way more than it was designed for. Pulling bodies off the frame are a snap with an engine hoist. I work alone, so I use it to make up for a second set of hands.

[gmwillys]

These engines/transmissions/transfer case were made with good American steel/cast iron. They are heavy, but they last forever. Once a pon a time, I had friends that raced the local dirt track circuit. We raced in the Sportsman division, so we used a 355 SBC, with a 525 lift cam. We did have a spare engine, but we used it in the truck used to pull the car to the track. The spare utilized all the same hook ups that the race car did, minus the transmission. The season championship night came, and we went out for the heat race. The engine in the car developed a head gasket leak, and was down on power. We decided to perform an engine swap before the feature race. Four of us attacked the car and the truck at the same time, for the engine swap. Two of us prepped the truck for the removal, and two on the car. We took two floor jack handles, and made a cradle to lift the engine out. Two guys per side lifted the engine out of the car, and set it on the trailer. Then we went and pulled the engine of the truck. The truck was much more difficult, because of the height of the truck compared to the car. We were able to set the engine in, plumb it, and have it running within an hour. We made it out on the track and placed third in the feature. The only problem was that we had to put the original wounded engine in the truck, just to get home. It was a long night. In a related story, we were preparing mid week to run a 100 lap memorial race, that had a descent pay out. We were prepping the engine for the race, and found an issue with the passenger side head. We looked under the bench for our stash of engine parts and only found a one ported passenger side 305 head. We were in crunch time by this point, so it was decided to go for broke, and install the 305 head. The budget was already gone through with shock and tire purchases, so there was no more money left, or enough time to prep a new head. We assembled the engine, then loaded up the car. We pushed the car to the weigh scale, and opted out of the mud laps. The first start of the car was when we went to the heat race. The engine sounded odd, but ran with plenty of power. Since we didn't go out for mud laps, we had to start at the rear of the field. He quickly weaved his way through the crowd of 10 cars, within the 10 laps. As soon as the checkered flag dropped, he shut down the engine, and was pushed into the pit. We went through and adjusted the valves with it hot, and then let it rest until the feature. For the last race, we started at the mid pack, outside row. When the green flag was dropped, the car took off again. He quickly ran toward the front, and maintained a sizable lead. Over the coarse of the race, the engine did fine. Towards the end of the race, the engine started to puff a bit out of the right side header, when the throttle was released. The longer the race went on, the more the passenger side head was smoking. The lead was starting to diminish, but by the time the checkered flag, the second place car was hot on his heals. He was able to hold them off, and win the race. When we tore down the engine, the passenger bank piston rings were pretty much burnt up, and the crank bearings showed much more wear than the left bank. The difference in compression between the two sides, made the engine unbalanced. It was a good test of theory, with an interesting outcome.

An engine hoist is worth its weight in gold. I use mine for way more than it was designed for. Pulling bodies off the frame are a snap with an engine hoist. I work alone, so I use it to make up for a second set of hands.

[gmwillys]

These engines/transmissions/transfer case were made with good American steel/cast iron. They are heavy, but they last forever. Once a pon a time, I had friends that raced the local dirt track circuit. We raced in the Sportsman division, so we used a 355 SBC, with a 525 lift cam. We did have a spare engine, but we used it in the truck used to pull the car to the track. The spare utilized all the same hook ups that the race car did, minus the transmission. The season championship night came, and we went out for the heat race. The engine in the car developed a head gasket leak, and was down on power. We decided to perform an engine swap before the feature race. Four of us attacked the car and the truck at the same time, for the engine swap. Two of us prepped the truck for the removal, and two on the car. We took two floor jack handles, and made a cradle to lift the engine out. Two guys per side lifted the engine out of the car, and set it on the trailer. Then we went and pulled the engine of the truck. The truck was much more difficult, because of the height of the truck compared to the car. We were able to set the engine in, plumb it, and have it running within an hour. We made it out on the track and placed third in the feature. The only problem was that we had to put the original wounded engine in the truck, just to get home. It was a long night. In a related story, we were preparing mid week to run a 100 lap memorial race, that had a descent pay out. We were prepping the engine for the race, and found an issue with the passenger side head. We looked under the bench for our stash of engine parts and only found a one ported passenger side 305 head. We were in crunch time by this point, so it was decided to go for broke, and install the 305 head. The budget was already gone through with shock and tire purchases, so there was no more money left, or enough time to prep a new head. We assembled the engine, then loaded up the car. We pushed the car to the weigh scale, and opted out of the mud laps. The first start of the car was when we went to the heat race. The engine sounded odd, but ran with plenty of power. Since we didn't go out for mud laps, we had to start at the rear of the field. He quickly weaved his way through the crowd of 10 cars, within the 10 laps. As soon as the checkered flag dropped, he shut down the engine, and was pushed into the pit. We went through and adjusted the valves with it hot, and then let it rest until the feature. For the last race, we started at the mid pack, outside row. When the green flag was dropped, the car took off again. He quickly ran toward the front, and maintained a sizable lead. Over the coarse of the race, the engine did fine. Towards the end of the race, the engine started to puff a bit out of the right side header, when the throttle was released. The longer the race went on, the more the passenger side head was smoking. The lead was starting to diminish, but by the time the checkered flag, the second place car was hot on his heals. He was able to hold them off, and win the race. When we tore down the engine, the passenger bank piston rings were pretty much burnt up, and the crank bearings showed much more wear than the left bank. The difference in compression between the two sides, made the engine unbalanced. It was a good test of theory, with an interesting outcome.

An engine hoist is worth its weight in gold. I use mine for way more than it was designed for. Pulling bodies off the frame are a snap with an engine hoist. I work alone, so I use it to make up for a second set of hands.

[gmwillys]

These engines/transmissions/transfer case were made with good American steel/cast iron. They are heavy, but they last forever. Once a pon a time, I had friends that raced the local dirt track circuit. We raced in the Sportsman division, so we used a 355 SBC, with a 525 lift cam. We did have a spare engine, but we used it in the truck used to pull the car to the track. The spare utilized all the same hook ups that the race car did, minus the transmission. The season championship night came, and we went out for the heat race. The engine in the car developed a head gasket leak, and was down on power. We decided to perform an engine swap before the feature race. Four of us attacked the car and the truck at the same time, for the engine swap. Two of us prepped the truck for the removal, and two on the car. We took two floor jack handles, and made a cradle to lift the engine out. Two guys per side lifted the engine out of the car, and set it on the trailer. Then we went and pulled the engine of the truck. The truck was much more difficult, because of the height of the truck compared to the car. We were able to set the engine in, plumb it, and have it running within an hour. We made it out on the track and placed third in the feature. The only problem was that we had to put the original wounded engine in the truck, just to get home. It was a long night. In a related story, we were preparing mid week to run a 100 lap memorial race, that had a descent pay out. We were prepping the engine for the race, and found an issue with the passenger side head. We looked under the bench for our stash of engine parts and only found a one ported passenger side 305 head. We were in crunch time by this point, so it was decided to go for broke, and install the 305 head. The budget was already gone through with shock and tire purchases, so there was no more money left, or enough time to prep a new head. We assembled the engine, then loaded up the car. We pushed the car to the weigh scale, and opted out of the mud laps. The first start of the car was when we went to the heat race. The engine sounded odd, but ran with plenty of power. Since we didn't go out for mud laps, we had to start at the rear of the field. He quickly weaved his way through the crowd of 10 cars, within the 10 laps. As soon as the checkered flag dropped, he shut down the engine, and was pushed into the pit. We went through and adjusted the valves with it hot, and then let it rest until the feature. For the last race, we started at the mid pack, outside row. When the green flag was dropped, the car took off again. He quickly ran toward the front, and maintained a sizable lead. Over the coarse of the race, the engine did fine. Towards the end of the race, the engine started to puff a bit out of the right side header, when the throttle was released. The longer the race went on, the more the passenger side head was smoking. The lead was starting to diminish, but by the time the checkered flag, the second place car was hot on his heals. He was able to hold them off, and win the race. When we tore down the engine, the passenger bank piston rings were pretty much burnt up, and the crank bearings showed much more wear than the left bank. The difference in compression between the two sides, made the engine unbalanced. It was a good test of theory, with an interesting outcome.

An engine hoist is worth its weight in gold. I use mine for way more than it was designed for. Pulling bodies off the frame are a snap with an engine hoist. I work alone, so I use it to make up for a second set of hands.

[gmwillys]

These engines/transmissions/transfer case were made with good American steel/cast iron. They are heavy, but they last forever. Once a pon a time, I had friends that raced the local dirt track circuit. We raced in the Sportsman division, so we used a 355 SBC, with a 525 lift cam. We did have a spare engine, but we used it in the truck used to pull the car to the track. The spare utilized all the same hook ups that the race car did, minus the transmission. The season championship night came, and we went out for the heat race. The engine in the car developed a head gasket leak, and was down on power. We decided to perform an engine swap before the feature race. Four of us attacked the car and the truck at the same time, for the engine swap. Two of us prepped the truck for the removal, and two on the car. We took two floor jack handles, and made a cradle to lift the engine out. Two guys per side lifted the engine out of the car, and set it on the trailer. Then we went and pulled the engine of the truck. The truck was much more difficult, because of the height of the truck compared to the car. We were able to set the engine in, plumb it, and have it running within an hour. We made it out on the track and placed third in the feature. The only problem was that we had to put the original wounded engine in the truck, just to get home. It was a long night. In a related story, we were preparing mid week to run a 100 lap memorial race, that had a descent pay out. We were prepping the engine for the race, and found an issue with the passenger side head. We looked under the bench for our stash of engine parts and only found a one ported passenger side 305 head. We were in crunch time by this point, so it was decided to go for broke, and install the 305 head. The budget was already gone through with shock and tire purchases, so there was no more money left, or enough time to prep a new head. We assembled the engine, then loaded up the car. We pushed the car to the weigh scale, and opted out of the mud laps. The first start of the car was when we went to the heat race. The engine sounded odd, but ran with plenty of power. Since we didn't go out for mud laps, we had to start at the rear of the field. He quickly weaved his way through the crowd of 10 cars, within the 10 laps. As soon as the checkered flag dropped, he shut down the engine, and was pushed into the pit. We went through and adjusted the valves with it hot, and then let it rest until the feature. For the last race, we started at the mid pack, outside row. When the green flag was dropped, the car took off again. He quickly ran toward the front, and maintained a sizable lead. Over the coarse of the race, the engine did fine. Towards the end of the race, the engine started to puff a bit out of the right side header, when the throttle was released. The longer the race went on, the more the passenger side head was smoking. The lead was starting to diminish, but by the time the checkered flag, the second place car was hot on his heals. He was able to hold them off, and win the race. When we tore down the engine, the passenger bank piston rings were pretty much burnt up, and the crank bearings showed much more wear than the left bank. The difference in compression between the two sides, made the engine unbalanced. It was a good test of theory, with an interesting outcome.

An engine hoist is worth its weight in gold. I use mine for way more than it was designed for. Pulling bodies off the frame are a snap with an engine hoist. I work alone, so I use it to make up for a second set of hands.

[gmwillys]

These engines/transmissions/transfer case were made with good American steel/cast iron. They are heavy, but they last forever. Once a pon a time, I had friends that raced the local dirt track circuit. We raced in the Sportsman division, so we used a 355 SBC, with a 525 lift cam. We did have a spare engine, but we used it in the truck used to pull the car to the track. The spare utilized all the same hook ups that the race car did, minus the transmission. The season championship night came, and we went out for the heat race. The engine in the car developed a head gasket leak, and was down on power. We decided to perform an engine swap before the feature race. Four of us attacked the car and the truck at the same time, for the engine swap. Two of us prepped the truck for the removal, and two on the car. We took two floor jack handles, and made a cradle to lift the engine out. Two guys per side lifted the engine out of the car, and set it on the trailer. Then we went and pulled the engine of the truck. The truck was much more difficult, because of the height of the truck compared to the car. We were able to set the engine in, plumb it, and have it running within an hour. We made it out on the track and placed third in the feature. The only problem was that we had to put the original wounded engine in the truck, just to get home. It was a long night.

[gmwillys]

. In a related story, we were preparing mid week to run a 100 lap memorial race, that had a descent pay out. We were prepping the engine for the race, and found an issue with the passenger side head. We looked under the bench for our stash of engine parts and only found a one ported passenger side 305 head. We were in crunch time by this point, so it was decided to go for broke, and install the 305 head. The budget was already gone through with shock and tire purchases, so there was no more money left, or enough time to prep a new head. We assembled the engine, then loaded up the car. We pushed the car to the weigh scale, and opted out of the mud laps. The first start of the car was when we went to the heat race. The engine sounded odd, but ran with plenty of power. Since we didn't go out for mud laps, we had to start at the rear of the field. He quickly weaved his way through the crowd of 10 cars, within the 10 laps. As soon as the checkered flag dropped, he shut down the engine, and was pushed into the pit. We went through and adjusted the valves with it hot, and then let it rest until the feature. For the last race, we started at the mid pack, outside row. When the green flag was dropped, the car took off again. He quickly ran toward the front, and maintained a sizable lead. Over the coarse of the race, the engine did fine. Towards the end of the race, the engine started to puff a bit out of the right side header, when the throttle was released. The longer the race went on, the more the passenger side head was smoking. The lead was starting to diminish, but by the time the checkered flag, the second place car was hot on his heals. He was able to hold them off, and win the race. When we tore down the engine, the passenger bank piston rings were pretty much burnt up, and the crank bearings showed much more wear than the left bank. The difference in compression between the two sides, made the engine unbalanced. It was a good test of theory, with an interesting outcome.

[gmwillys]

An engine hoist is worth its weight in gold. I use mine for way more than it was designed for. Pulling bodies off the frame are a snap with an engine hoist. I work alone, so I use it to make up for a second set of hands.

[pelago]

. In a related story, neat..

[pelago]

now here is one that i just dont undestane,,, right hand thread for right tire, and left turn thread for left tire. Never had to change a flat or repair a tire under fire, but can imagine crap coming down at 40-50 a hour, and you are trying in the middle of the night to change a tire?? wonder who the rocket scientist was that figured two different lugs and two different stubs for tires?? just can not understand the reasoning behind this.. plus twice the stock numbers and twice the inventory and i can not a glance tell if it is right hand thread or left hand thread????
new topic, pulled the spare engine out of the other M38A1 now sitting on a cradle, plan is to rebuild it from crank on up. new jugs, rings, bearings valve job, dip the block and this time i am going to paint the sucker BRIGHT FREAKIN RED

[pelago]

SOMEONE REFRESH MY MEMORY HERE.... 24vdc thru a switch to input on distributor switch on and hit starter and it starts?? all things being equal, fuel so forth??

[gmwillys]

If I remember history correctly, left handed threads on the driver's side of vehicles can trace it's beginnings to horse drawn wagon days. The direction of travel would prevent the hubs from loosening up. That was the standard through the early sixties, on some vehicles. Years ago, I started a collection of left handed lug nuts. There is no way to tell them apart without examining the threads. At least the studs have an L on the end of them. Both my wagon and CJ2A have mixed and matched studs on the left side. Each stud has to be looked at, when removing a wheel. What a pain in the rear. When I get the notion, I will change them all out. Now with that being said, will I change the left side to left handed thread? Depends on my mood. I doubt there are too many wheel thieves, that are out looking for steel Jeep wheels.

[gmwillys]

You are correct. 24 VDC at the distributor, and fuel supply. As long as the points are hot, the engine will run.

[pelago]

damn, i did remember.....

[pelago]

anyone got a suggestion for some product i can put in the block (coolant side) to help clean it out while it sits for a while...not planning on rebuilding real quick. but pulled the thermostat out and its pretty cruddy in there...

[gmwillys]

I haven't tried this stuff myself, but it could be worth a try. I don't know if it will get the calcium build up out or not, but bathroom cleaner CLR would help with that.

Metal Rescue is a water based, environmentally friendly cleaner. It is supposed to be great at removing rust. Being water based, I don't know if one would want to coat the system with something to prevent rust from forming during storage.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Evapo-Rust-Super-Safe-Rust-Remover-Gallon/48810395?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227037674623&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=80431885129&wl4=pla-177671625409&wl5=9012836&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=48810395&wl13=&veh=sem#read-more

[pelago]

WAS ALSO THINKING ABOUT CLR??? put it in and flush? then let dry dunno

[LarrBeard]

For the first start up, I'd just fill it with water so that if you have to open things up again, you can just drain it without having to catch and keep it or dispose of in an environmentally responsible manner (!~).

Auto Zone gives 10% discount to vets...

https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze-radiator-additives-and-windshield-wash-fluid/radiator-additives-and-flush/prestone-radiator-flush-and-cleaner/223022_0_0

NAPA usually has Prestone stuff in stock as well.

This cuts grease and oil as well as calcium and rust . Run it until it gets hot, let it sit for a day. Repeat daily for a couple of days - then dump it and flush!

[gmwillys]

Yes, I would put in the CLR, then flush. The Metal Rescue, if it works as advertised, should remove any rust residue. Again, if it works, it should leave you with a grey coating on the iron surfaces. I didn't find anything stating that you would need to coat the surface to keep it that way. Once the oxidation is removed, I would think you would be good to go from there. It took 60 plus years to create any gunk, a year or two in storage won't hurt it. Cap the openings to keep out critters, then fog the cylinders. The engine will be ready for hibernation.

The Prestone cooling system flush works well, but it relies on temperature and pressure. The biggest downside to the in chassis flush, is that most people do not remove the radiator. Unless you flush one way, then reverse the flow back the other way, (leave the lower radiator hose attached to the water pump. Then when reversing the flow back through the radiator, and flow out the lower hose) you do not get all the crud out. The particles become trapped in the radiator. Also the thermostat would need to be removed also. A lot of overheating issues are caused by crud being deposited in the radiator.

[pelago]

And i found out once a flush can destroy seals in pumps, thought i needed to do that on my '49 ford coupe, all i did was screw up two water pumps, and they were a bitch to change out.

[gmwillys]

At least the CLR will dissolve the calcium deposits. Flush is made to sell more antifreeze and parts.

[pelago]

OLD SCHOOL... WAS TAUGHT THAT CARB GASKETS ARE DRY, AND VALVE COVER USED PERMATEX (NEW STUFF THAT BRUSHES ON) Actually went to local box type auto store and asked for crush washers. got a blank stare, at least he did not say "No Habla"

[gmwillys]

We used Permatex shellac for everything from sealing gaskets, to sealing cuts and scrapes. The only thing I use the local parts box type stores for is a free place to dump my used oil. The loaner tool isn't any good either. I broke down and used one of their torsion bar tools for a late model Tahoe for a project my son in law had, and the threads were galled beyond use. We had to go to three different stores to find a descent one.

[pelago]

any way to unload or show a little video, stuck my phone into access port of bell housing and got a little video of throwout bearing working?

[pelago]

1990

anyone tell me what this is,,, came loose in jeep with some other stuff??

[gmwillys]

It looks like the guts of a Craftsman ratchet wrench. It's not Jeep related, I'm fairly certain in that.

[pelago]

one thing i have noticed and that is the new brake lines are not covered, the attach kit has little braids of protective fabric that goes around the lines?? but since the jeep will not go "hither and yon" or make a beachhead landing. should not be a problem. My plan now is to re establish all the brake systems and rebuild entire jeep with all new brakes and lines. wheel cylinders and master cylinder. then four tires and two more rims so i can roll it a bit. then to tackle steering,, all the steering is good with exception of the "tube" it is encased in and the horn wiring, and a new wheel mine is kinda shot. last step is body (yuk) will take considerable welding. a lot more skill than i possess that is for sure, but have a guy that said if I tack it on( new pieces) where it sits where does not move he will clean weld it from then on. that sounds good, need passenger floor, tool box, rear deck and rear panel (taligate) and passenger side fender repair (rust) all the support frrames on bottom20122013




do these shoes look completely worn out or in my opinion hardly used,, take away the rust and?? now the odometer said 15k miles

[gmwillys]

Some of the American made brake lines, (https://quartertonparts.com/shop/) have pre bent brake lines that have cloth coverings for where the clamps go. Being that you are not planning to storm any beaches, you will be just fine. The cloth retains moisture anyway, if you were to be out driving around in the rain.

Body work on a M38A1 isn't bad to do. The last one I had my hands on, was so bad that the cowl and the tub were only connected by the top of the door sill. It came out well.

19951996199719981999

[gmwillys]

A few more pictures;

[gmwillys]

Final product;

[pelago]

wow, the photos before look very familiar, got lots to do

[pelago]

well, waiting for the socket to pull the last drum off, but i have dismantled all of the brake systems on each drum that i can (exception the one that i can not get drum off due to not having the socket yet) but all of the shoes are simply just not worn nor need to be replaced. will remplace all of the springs, rusty.. and of course new cylinders, but shoes are in great shape, must be that the odometer correct 15k miles nothing. too bad this critter just sat out in the rain like most of our rolling stock does now

[gmwillys]

The original brake shoes are far better than the non asbestos brake shoes made now a days. A couple of good taps with a hammer and punch is enough to loosen the hub nuts. The socket is nice, but not always necessary for disassembly. Now, to install, the socket is a must use.

[pelago]

after spending 45 minutes on one of the drum screws, and 1/2 can of propane, broke out the drill and knocked the head off of each one and the rear drums came right off. just one of the front drums came off. the other one will require pulling the hub after pulling the big nut. but most of the hardware is toast, so new springs and the hold down springs
not sure about the adj bolt, that is used to adj the shoes, got to take a closer look but WTH couple of bucks and Kaiser toy store.. I measured each shoe and they all are about .198 to .200 lots of life in all of them. all of the cylinders that i have removed are toast, rebuild kit versus new ones is a no brainer, four new ones around. the brakes froze with the cylinders out and the shoes right up against the drum. will have that socket after the first. need clips to hold the steel brake line to the flex one, but again they are out there. feel exceptionally confident that the restored jeep will have good solid brakes. better than my 35 ford with the mechanical brakes!!!

got to say this,,, wonder who the rocket scientist was that came up with right hand and left hand lug nuts and same for studs. can see it in the pouring down rain having to do multiple tire changes, and lug nuts getting all mixed up.. not to mention adding to a huge federal stock number deal, different lug nuts for one freakin jeep. this does not impress me at all2014 left rear ready to rebuild

[gmwillys]

The left hand threads traces its roots to the horse drawn wagon days. The left side was left handed threads to prevent the hub nuts from backing off while traveling forward.... Horses didn't back up much. I know my 63 wagon still has one hub that has left handed studs. Good thing the stud has an L on the end of it. I doubt there is many shops that know to look for it. They would most likely break the studs off trying to remove a wheel. I often think that if I change out studs, I will stay with left handed studs just for aggravation. Mine or whomever ends up with my collection when I tip over.

[pelago]

oh well. not today, but in future will wind up with all four wheels right handed

[pelago]

THINKING OUR LOUD.... just so happens i have a 1955 chevy V8 265 cu inches, few goodies on it, headman headers, new pistons circa 1965, good ignition (old school) 1 AFB carb, small but potent cam. got a extra jeep frame. hmmmm hmmmm crazy????

[gmwillys]

I can see potential there. Crazy....No.

[pelago]

crazy yes....Beef up frame, close it in and make it pure box beam. new rear end, chevy four speed hurst shifter, custom drive shaft, modify or hang a new front end... drop engine in,,, already checked measurements and it will fit fine. pair of 36" cherry bombs some kind of a body??? HMMM in fact I know where there is a 32 roadster shell with no rust... roadster with a jeep front end????? call it a jeefster?? still only in the thinking stage crazy???? pair or road slicks on *** end, wide whitewalls on front and moon caps i know this 265 does not weigh as much as the 134. no way paint it fire freakin engine hot rod red

[gmwillys]

No, not crazy. I'm liking the direction this is heading. The jeep front grill will work out well. I know where there is an extra late model Willys wagon grill that could be had for cheap. Not the one in the photo, but same design. A 32 roadster body would blend in rather well, in my mind.

[pelago]

damn, screwed up again.. ordered a bunch of brake stuff, flex hoses, s lines so forth and forgot the damn crush washers. Also, damn if i can find references to crush washers in brake lines in the manual?? when i took the old brake lines off both M38A1's that i have there were not crush washers in any of the brake lines that i took apart, unless they were so tiny i missed them??? confusing?? i called mike at kaiser and he said "you need them" so order more "stuff:

[gmwillys]

The crush washers are important, but I too have seen a lot of seasoned cars without the washers. Crush washers will prevent a lot of brake issues from outward leaks, to air entering the system. At least Kaiser Willys keeps these in stock. Gone are the days of going into a true auto parts house, digging through drawers of assortments of anything you could possibly want.

[LarrBeard]

Crush washers - Page 111 in the catalog with the skinny chick on the cover.....

[pelago]

well, that makes sense. fluid leaks are a pain in the *** but this thing has ten of them at least 4 wheel cylinders, 4 flex hoses lot of steel pipe fittings oh well it is what it is aint it
wonder if going to a auto parts store would be a futile waste of time. kinda choke on a crush washer smaler than my little fingernail costing 2.00
no trouble in the catalog finding them (yeah she is kinda boney aint she oops can i say that here) but now i have not read the maint manual cover to cover (can think of better bed side reading) but have looked seriously at it and just can not find a reference to any crush washers on brake line layout??

[gmwillys]

The most important crush washers are for the banjo fitting at the master cylinder. The washers are used to seal up the through bolt, because the fluid travels through the bolt to the banjo fitting. Other that those two washers, I can not come up with any others. The rubber hoses, the brake lines screw into the end, and the S line ties into the other end of the rubber. The wheel cylinders tie into the hard axle line. No other crush washers are needed. I looked at the catalogue, and I saw the crush washers for $1.99, but they are for later model CJ5s. 1977-81 and 1982-86. Mainly the AMC days of Heeps needed the extra sealing help.....

We use copper conical seals on the stainless hydraulic lines within the turrets of our big riffle (105 MM), but stainless will not seal well when the fitting is stainless also. The conical seal fits between the inside of the tubing flair and the fitting. The copper creates a viable, soft surface that will seal the connection.

[LarrBeard]

No crush washers at wheel cylinders or at junction blocks, just at Master Cylinder.

We did put crush washers under the bolts that hold the side plate on the steering gear box since we filled it with oil - not grease (another story).

[pelago]

somewhere there is a video of the very first prototype jeep saw it once was kinda cool, and the ever popular jeep came from that

[gmwillys]

If you ever find yourself in Huntsville AL, there is the US Veteran's Memorial Museum, http://www.memorialmuseum.org/displays. They have examples of all the prototypes submitted to the Government, (Bantam, Willys, and Ford). They have a reference library there also, that may have a copy of said video.

[pelago]

One thing I tried and it worked. kept needing a 3rd hand to do the brakes. had trouble putting in the retention spring, needed to hold the shoe and the little rod that goes thru the retention spring, actually got kinda pissed at it. took both shoes and just placed them in and took some electrical tape and made three loops around both shoes to hold them in and then the retention spring install was quite a bit more manageable. left the tape there for the upper and lower spring. made quite a difference anyway. well it worked for me.....just passing it on, but she has new brakes for and aft.... and new cylinders. brake lines and master cylinder next. one thing i did notice is that the individual wheels do not conform to the pictured in the manual,,, rear end one side had short shoe in back and one had short shoe in front?? some tech bulletin? maint chief tell the troops it dont matter?? who knows but i put mine like they were in the picture with short shoe in the back

[gmwillys]

You were correct in following the manual. The short shoe goes to the rear. An engineer with a higher paid grade once figured that the leading shoe would be the dominate stopping force, with the rear shoe there to back it up the front. As far as installing the shoes, I found that holding the shoes in place with my knees, then using a pair of vise grips on the spring to create the leverage needed to push the spring home. The vise grips works a whole lot easier than the brake spring tool, in my opinion.

[pelago]

HMMMMM i actually have found tht the brake ool actually works for me..pops that spring right in there, but i finaggle the bottem short spring in when i add the second shoe. just drops on in, and taking out so simple also.....one more thing off the list..

[gmwillys]

You can't beat forward progress. Now for the fun part. The master cylinder isn't too bad, and the new brake lines will be time consuming, but not difficult.

[pelago]

WELL ISSUE NUMBER (I FORGET)....
Being a chicken, i sent my fuel pump into Kaiser for their guys to do the magic. i felt i would gorp it up. Got a call from Mike, seems my fuel pump is civilian version? damn looks just like the picture in manual?? what the heck i will never tell anyone that the new fuel pump is civilian version of military pump, and the new one is 15.00 cheaper than rebuild. what ya gonna do, just go with the flow

[LarrBeard]

There is a good chance that the new fuel pump will deliver a higher pressure than the older pump. Go ahead and put a regulator between the pump and carburetor so you can set fuel pressure where you want it. (Go ahead - ask me how I learned that...)

Yep, that's right...

[pelago]

a regulator, pressure i take it, have no idea where or how to get one or even what they look like, new to me

[gmwillys]

I don't believe that you would be happy with the appearance of a pressure regulator between the fuel pump and carburetor. Even if you paint the usually chrome regulator, it will still stick out like a sore thumb on even a motor pool quality restoration. I've run constant flow/pressure electric fuel pumps for years on the derby cars that I built. Ran a simple Holley 500 two barrel carb on them all. As long as the needle and seat are in good shape, and the float is set right, there are no problems. My wagon has a sbc with the original Quadra-junk carb on it, and a stock fuel pump. When the engine was good and warm, gas would start to poor out of the throttle shaft bushings. Come to find out that the accelerator pump was shot, and pulling air, and the needle and seats were shot, causing the fuel to fill up and come out the vent into the throat of the carb. With the excess gas being dumped into the throat, the throttle blades were pretty much closed, thus allowing the excess fuel to run out of the bushings.
https://www.autozone.com/fuel-systems/fuel-pressure-regulator-and-control

[LarrBeard]

My F-134 used a Carter YF, which was not too tolerant of fuel pressures above 5 PSI. The M38 uses a bit different carburetor, but excess pressure may be an issue even with that one.

We tried adding spacers to reduce fuel pump stroke, but that made the fuel pump lever clack on the cam lobe - not something we wanted since clacks induce fatigue cracks and failures.

I looked a bit amd I found what looks like my unit, a "Mr. Gasket 9710". Google it to see what it looks like.

The attached picture shows it hanging in the lash-up while we were testing things.

You can paint it to match the engine color, hide it down behind the oil filter. It hardly shows now with everything buttoned up. Hopefully you won't need one.

No joke GI - runs good, lasts a long time.

$0.02

[LarrBeard]

Google "Mr. Gasket 9710". That's the beast.

[pelago]

what should the pressure be regulated to ?? psi??. i know on my kubot diesel i had a mechanical pump and said nuts to that priming a diesel with a mechanical pump a PIA. bought a electreic and made bleeding and priming so so so easy. miss that liettle 30hp bugger...
today got all the brake lines in and all the flex hoses in with all the clips holding them together,,, master cyl next then can wrap it up. fuel pump then fire the critter up

[gmwillys]

Fuel pressure should be between 4 to 5 psi. The benefit to using an electric fuel pump would be that it can be switched individually from the ignition. When you park the Jeep for any length of time, you can switch off the pump, and run the remaing fuel out of the carb. The second benefit would be that the pump could act as a security feature. You can put the switch in a location that is hidden, so that no one would be able to start the Jeep, and take off with it. The down side, you have another switch that you will have to hide to keep the original appearance. The second would be splitting the voltage to have only 12 volts for the pump.

[LarrBeard]

The 54-60 Shop Manual shows 2 1/2 to 3 3/4 fuel pressure for the single barrel Carter YF (measured @ 1800 rpm). The M38 may be different.

On the '48 I run it at about 3-pounds and it's never had a problem with too little or too much.

Splitting the M38 24-volt system to get 12-volts for a pump isn't a problem.

But - do whatever you dern well feel like!