Emergency brake substitute.

[okiemark]

The jeep I am working has zero parts that constitute the parking brake. Has anyone tried using a brake lock like a Mico or something similar? I think they are supposed to be used to lock the front brakes to do a burnout.

[TJones]

Yes
It’s called a “line lock”, but I’m sure as soon as you turn the key off it will release.
What are you working on oklemark, I rebuilt mine in my 52 M38 and I may of kept everything I replaced.
Let me check to see if I did and I’ll let you know.

[bmorgil]

A line lock is an electric solidoind that when 12 volts is applied, blocks off the brake line so to speak. It draws a lot of current and would run the battery dead or, burn up if left on for long periods of time.

TJ has the best advice going, and if he can help you, you would be way ahead of the game. It would be much easier and in the end probably more cost effective, to restore the old brake. I just can't think of a cheaper e-brake setup from scratch.

[TJones]

Here you go oklemark, but I’ll still check my parts. 5318

[okiemark]

Ok, thanks, I thought the one I was looking at you had to apply the brakes to release it.

[okiemark]

By the way, I am working on a 57 CJ-5.

[TJones]

I'm not sure Mark, but the "Master Minds"would know if they are the same or not, like I said I will check my stockpile of replaced parts to see if I have anything left.

[TJones]

Mark,
I went through all my stockpiled parts and the only thing I have as far as EB parts is the shoes, the springs,pins,cables and adjuster were so rusted I pitched them and bought new from KW. Mine had sit in a open lento for 10 years after it came back from Daytona Beach during spring break, so you can only imagine what it looked like underneath.
If your still looking I’ll check around for pieces parts for ya.

[bmorgil]

Mark, that is the same e-brake that fits all the Jeeps and 4 x 4 vehicles until the early 60's. Only the M38A1 is different. There were various ways to apply it. A cane handle through the dash, a lever under the dash, there were a few ways. The parts unique to yours would be the cable and parts that apply the brake via the cable. The lever mounted to the transfer case is the same through the years.

[okiemark]

OK, I'll just keep on working on this thing. I can deal with that any time. Back to the brake locks, there are some that I know you can add to a truck with a stock trailer but looks like they run about 300 bucks. But getting this thing back to original could cost that much as well unless I can find someone around here I can scrounge the parts from. It would be nice to have a hand brake. That's the reason I drive automatics.

[bmorgil]

It could be done with a hydraulic brake valve but, it would have to be manual (like the one TJones showed below) and, plumbed near the driver. I don't like the idea of the main hydraulic line to the brakes, running up to the dash to a valve, then back to the brakes on a street car. The opportunity for a leak or, damage is going up with each add on. This probably would not pass any on-highway laws.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Park-Lok-Universal-Hydraulic-Parking-Brake-Line-Lock,1970.html

Now lets go racing. It's done all the time. In some forms of racing brake biasing valves are manually controlled, and usually close to the driver. Controlling the bias between front to rear is a "Driver Thing". The "Line Lock" is used in "Drag Racing" (but not cross dressing) to hold the front wheels locked at the starting line. On to the new generation and you see the "Drifter's" with a large 3 foot long lever yankin' on the rear brakes with a separate master cylinder hooked to the rear brakes and in some cases, an extra set of rear brakes!

It can be done. From the rear brake line at the tee at the master cylinder, run the line to the dash to a manual shut off valve. Run the line from the valve back to the rear brake tee. If you stand on the brakes and close the valve, if there are no leaks, the brakes will be locked until you release them. Install a biasing valve instead of the lock and you are ready to track race!

[gmwillys]

To explore all possibilities, look at some of these industrial locks. We had a Mico lock on a tow truck. It worked exceptionally well to keep things where you parked it while winching cars from a ditch.

https://www.mico.com/sites/default/files/document-pdfs/80950152Brake%20Lock%20Application%20Guide_0.pdf

https://www.mico.com/sites/default/files/document-pdfs/80950013Hydraulic%20Brake%20Locks.pdf

[okiemark]

Yes, I looked at some that are designed to actually work as an auxiliary park break. They are higher in price and switch back on automatically if the pressure on the brake line drops. The other kind are used to lock up the front brakes to do a burnout.

[bmorgil]

With that kind of cost. I am thinking the original system is getting more attractive.

[okiemark]

If you could find the parts used you might, but just the backing plate and shoes is 400 bucks in one whack at KW.

[okiemark]

I just had an idea. I can carry an 8 foot stick of sucker rod and run it through the wheel spokes.

[gmwillys]

Wheel chocks.

[LarrBeard]

Lots of free advice here, and worth everything you pay for it.

[bmorgil]

Anchor tied to a shock cord to ease the stop in case you throw it in an "emergency".

[okiemark]

I actually have a high quality chock I found that would work for sure.

[bmorgil]

Wheel chocks are fool proof. Touch and go in an emergency stop however!

[okiemark]

When I was out there cleaning on the frame yesterday I was looking and noticed where the backing plate was mounted, the removal appeared to be fairly recent, so I am going to try to contact the previous owner to see if he just decided to do away with it when he had the transfer case off.