1957 cj-5

[okiemark]

Jeep2.jpg (17.7 KB)T Jeep1.jpg (18.0 KB) Jeep3.jpg (43.2 KB) Jeep4.jpg (40.2 KB) Jeep5.jpg (42.4 KB) Trying to start my thread and post a few pictures. The first two are the only ones I have before I started. The Jeep was painted in a John Deere green and yellow paint scheme. The first obvious thing that had to be changed. I first decided to just clean up the engine and paint it up, but then evolved into taking everything apart on the front and shining up the frame, then evolved into a whole new body tub that I haven't got yet. Got a long way to go before I get to that.

[okiemark]

Trying to figure this out. Not the easiest thing I have ever encountered.

[okiemark]

Jeep6.jpg (43.5 KB) Jeep7.jpg (39.9 KB) Jeep8.jpg (42.5 KB) Jeep9.jpg (54.5 KB) Got the body off and outside. Now I have the differential and springs off the back and I'm cleaning up parts and painting and cleaning up the frame to paint. Been putting in new seals in everything as well as new brake lines. It had new springs. If I had it to do over again I would have pulled the engine and tranny and completely stripped the frame and had it sandblasted. Would have saved me some time.

[okiemark]

We had a little snow and cold today, but they're saying the weather is going to gradually warm and work its way up to near 70 so that means I have a chance to get that differential cleaned up and painted and the frame painted. I'm looking forward to putting it back together.

[bmorgil]

Looking awesome man! She cleans up pretty good!

On posting the pic's, it looks like you have it figured out. You have to go to "Go Advanced" and then "Manage Attachments". Then you have to browse for a file and upload it. One at a time. There is a limit on the individual file size listed, and a limit on the number of files, that you figure out when it wont take any more.

[okiemark]

I couldn't figure out how to post them from my phone, so I e-mailed them to myself, then moved them to a folder and went from there.

[bmorgil]

Wow! I do not know how some of you can operate so well on that phone! I need a BIG screen, BIG keyboard. The thought of trying to do that on the "Star Trek" communicator scares me.

[TJones]

WOW okiemark your project looks GREAT.........

[gmwillys]

Well done!

[okiemark]

Got my body kit today. Looked good. It said some holes might have to be drilled. I didn't see any holes, so they might mean all holes.

[bmorgil]

There will be a few don't worry! For sure you will have to drill the body mounts. See my post. I covered what I had to do to my 3A body kit. Just make sure you start with the front end. Put on the grill and the fenders and fasten them loosely. Then put on the tub and line it up as best you can. You will see there is a body ""hat channel" that will pretty much line up with the frame holes when all is well.

On mine I had to have the firewall modified by the body shop. It hit the motor in the back at the throttle linkage bracket before the tub would come all the way forward.

[okiemark]

I looked at the fenders and noticed the piece that stiffens the fender about half way extends to bolt to the frame on my old fenders, but that piece doesn't extend down on the new fenders. Is this an issue?

[okiemark]

Cleaning hubs and brake drums and anything else I can get my hands on. I guess I'm making progress. Decided to put a U-joint in the front drive shaft and it about ate me up. The needle cups didn't want to go in straight and it made it hard to get the other cup on, so naturally I ended up with a needle down. Been a long time since I did that. I think the yoke might have been sprung a little.

[bmorgil]

I looked at the fenders and noticed the piece that stiffens the fender about half way extends to bolt to the frame on my old fenders, but that piece doesn't extend down on the new fenders. Is this an issue?

Can you get a pic of that? Is the original brace a PO add on maybe?

[okiemark]

It extends down from the fender along side the frame. Has two bolts that go through it into the frame. I'll take some pictures.

[gmwillys]

If your original fender supports are not too rotten, (often they rot around the place where it is spot welded to the fender) cut what you need to get what you need to finish the mount. Is it crucial? No, your fenders will not fall off, but I would fix it just because it's supposed to be. These mounts are the only points that directly tie the fenders to the frame. I replaced the pieces on our '46, and the fenders were much sturdier then they were before they were repaired.

[bmorgil]

If your original fender supports are not too rotten, (often they rot around the place where it is spot welded to the fender) cut what you need to get what you need to finish the mount. Is it crucial? No, your fenders will not fall off, but I would fix it just because it's supposed to be. These mounts are the only points that directly tie the fenders to the frame. I replaced the pieces on our '46, and the fenders were much sturdier then they were before they were repaired.

gm do the CJ5 fenders mount like the cj2 and 3's ? Is he missing the main bracket that holds the fender to the frame? I didn't think the CJ5 had that big center brace to the frame. On an older CJ that is the main mounting. Why would they (manufactures) have left that off?

[gmwillys]

The M38A1 did still have the main brace to the frame. The fenders for the A1 mounted in the same fashion as the flat fenders.

[okiemark]

I too thought about cutting off some of the old bracket and add it on the new fender. I'll put on pictures when I get a chance. The fact that the CJ-5 grill mounts at one point in the middle worries me that it might want to lean to one side or the other if it isn't held there. I'm going to be crossing that bridge in maybe a couple of weeks.

[okiemark]

Jeep10.jpg (52.9 KB)


Well, I've been at it pretty steadily, finally got the frame shined up pretty good. The hardest and most tedious part is inside the channels, but did the best I could. Got the new rear crossmember/bumper put on, got the rear differential painted and back in and back inside before the big rain about a week ago.

[okiemark]

Jeep11.jpg (77.3 KB) Jeep12.jpg (73.3 KB) Jeep13.jpg (62.9 KB) Jeep14.jpg (63.0 KB

Got a picture showing the backing plates cleaned up and painted with the new shoes on and ready to put on the differential. And three pictures showing how it looks. Now I have all the new brake lines put on and the drive shafts put back in after replacing the transfer case seals. The oil that came out of the transfer case and tranny looked a little nasty and I think some water had gotten in there. Am thinking about flushing it out with some diesel before I put the 90 wt back in.

[okiemark]

As for the paint colors. The engine was originally red. The body color was red but I'm not sure if the engine and body color was the same. I painted the engine and bell housing International Harvestor red. The valve cover and side color appeared to be aluminum or silver so that's what I went back with. I did change a couple of things to black like the fan and timing cover, and to add a modern touch the oil dipstick/cap is yellow.

[TJones]

Your doing a nice job there Mark
Keep up the good work and you’ll have a Beauty!!!

[bmorgil]

That is looking excellent!

[gmwillys]

Great job!

[okiemark]

Decided I would put brake fluid in the master cylinder and test the new parts. Of course, there was one brake line connection I had failed to tighten completely and then developed a leak at the master cylinder. Thought it was where one of the brake lines screwed into the manifold, but that wasn't the case. It was at the crush washers where the manifold is bolted to the cylinder. Took it off and to my surprise someone had put in a crush washer that was too thin and wasn't even copper. That triggered another order from KW. Decided to pull the pan and clean it up inside and out now.

[bmorgil]

Man, I leaked on mine also. Got it all together and the crush washer at the master leaked. I really had to tighten that sucker. It of course ruined the new paint on the heat shield below the leak.

[okiemark]

Well, that was one of the few things I didn't take apart as the master cylinder looked pretty new. The last guy fudged and put a washer in there that didn't belong.

[okiemark]

The previous guy who put the pan on sure did like his silicone. I could see it bulging out between the pan and the block so that made me want to pull it off. Gave me a chance to clean out the gunk in the bottom of the pan but everything else on the bottom looks good. I'm not a fan of the clear silicone for engine gaskets. I like to glue the gasket on the pan or valve cover with weatherstrip adhesive so it can dry and not slip, then use a very small amount of heat resistant silicone between the gasket and block.

[bmorgil]

Yes I agree, a good sign to pull the pan off. There are a few spots where it works fantastic. In general it must be kept out of the motor that's for sure. It will harden in the oil and drift around. It can really "gum" up the works! I also like to use only an adhesive like High Tack. If the surfaces are good, often I use nothing. Especially if that's the way it was originally assembled, and there were no signs of leaks, and I am using high quality gaskets.

Getting a look inside the oil pan at the rods and mains is great! A great chance to clean out any crud. It sounds like your in great shape. A nice way to see if anything scary is going on!

[LarrBeard]

If the previous guy tightened the pan bolts "farmer tight" (as tight as they will go, then another half-turn) and overcompressed the pan gasket, you may have enough ripple and distortion to the bolt flange on the pan that getting a seal will be a problem. A flat flange seals up nicely with just a fresh gasket and PermaTex High Tak, but if there is a ripple in the pan, you may need something more flexible to conform to the waves and ripples.

Good luck

[okiemark]

Hey, watch it talking about us farmers! The rule is to tighten until right before it twists off you know. Actually most of the farmers I know are either pretty good mechanics or don't mechanic at all. But the pan looks pretty good. Looks like something poked a small hole up toward the front and it got patched. Glad I pulled it off because the silicone was squished to the inside worse than it was to the outside. I peeled at least a small handful of clear silicone around the inside. Jeep15.jpg (59.3 KB)

[LarrBeard]

Hey, I'm a farm boy - at least I started out there.

I've seen my GrandPa put one of those old square headed adjustable wrenches that look like a pipe wrench on a square nut, then take a 2-pound hammer and whack it a couple of times to get it good and tight.

Now that you have the pan off, are you going to take off any bearing caps to look at bearings and crank conditions?

[okiemark]

Well, I hadn't thought of that. I did push on them and could get a little side to side movement but no up and down. The motor ran and sounded so good I thought I was OK there.

[Jallen1795]

Okiemark, awesome job. Your jeep is turning out great and look's like your having lots of fun. Like your garage and work area. You have inspired me to convert mine to a better work place. Still trying to work out the issues with the wifey why my jeeps inside and her car is outside. O well !!! Keep sending in your pictures. Love seeing you transform that jeep into a masterpiece. Jim

[bmorgil]

Well, I hadn't thought of that. I did push on them and could get a little side to side movement but no up and down. The motor ran and sounded so good I thought I was OK there.

If you don't want to "crack the caps" and take a peak, Be sure of a few things since you are close to being right on top of any problems. Since it ran well and no knocking sounds, it would indicate nothing is catastrophic in the bearings. If it had good oil pressure, more than 2 at idle and at least 40psi, while running warm, with 30 weight oil, You are probably safe in not pulling the caps. A little side to side play should not exceed .010" inch measured with a feeler gauge (at least not by much).

[okiemark]

Well, there was no oil pressure gauge, so I can't say for sure about the oil pressure. I'll take another look. Would new rod bearings get the side play back to normal if that is a problem and will the bearings say on them if they are standard?

[bmorgil]

No the side to side is controlled by the rods and crank themselves. I doubt there is a problem there, unless you spun a bearing. You would know that by the knocking sound when it was running.

Yes the bearings should say on the backside. They will be stamped std,.010 etc. It wouldn't hurt to take a look at the #1 rod bearing if you had any concerns at all. That's the weak link in the L and F 134's. That bearing is a little "starved" for oil at idle and low RPM.

[okiemark]

Maybe I didn't say it right. The movement was front to back actually, side to side might have been misleading.

[bmorgil]

I think I understood what you mean. Front to back on the engine or side to side on the rod.

[okiemark]

I'm scratching my head a little now. I bought a new speedometer and gauges. I thought I would try to get a head start on some of the wiring behind the dash panel. I was trying to figure out where the lights in the back went so hooked up a battery and jumpers and tested some stuff out. I can't find any way to make the speedometer light up enough to be able to hardly see it in the dark. Some light does get to the gauges, but this has me puzzled. Maybe I just need to mount a light on the dash. I do have a manual oil gauge with no light that I have to light up anyway.

[LarrBeard]

I'm scratching my head a little now. I bought a new speedometer and gauges. I thought I would try to get a head start on some of the wiring behind the dash panel. I was trying to figure out where the lights in the back went so hooked up a battery and jumpers and tested some stuff out. I can't find any way to make the speedometer light up enough to be able to hardly see it in the dark. Some light does get to the gauges, but this has me puzzled. Maybe I just need to mount a light on the dash. I do have a manual oil gauge with no light that I have to light up anyway.

Another thing that has spoiled us with our more modern vehicles is the instrument and dash lighting. It was almost an afterthought in the 'early days'.

On the '48, the dash lighting consists of two # 55 lamps (2 candlepower) mounted in the speedometer housing. They give about as much illumination as a couple of fireflies in a pill jar.

If I want to see the speedometer in the dark, I turn on the dome light, a dazzling 15 CP # 87! There is very little illumination on any of the gauges either, just what leaks out of the speedometer.

Get one of those 'free' Harbor Freight LED flashlights and hang it in a handy place.

[bmorgil]

You Guy's are spoiled! The early CJ's (like mine) have ONE bulb tucked under a hood in the middle of the dash above all the gauges. That's it! However at a whopping 45mph, you do have a bit more time to look.

[okiemark]

I was thinking one of those dash lights you see on older tractors that have a shield over the top. They would light it up pretty good. I bet that is the same thing you're talking about, bmorgil. But at least this tells me I am not totally crazy.

[bmorgil]

Thats the factory CJ3A setup alright! Just like an old tractor.

I have had good success using LED replacements from these guy's. https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/car-boat-light-bulbs/

I have had some of these be too bright. On my Jeep I am using the old tungsten element. I think that barley able to see by the warm orange glow, is nostalgic!

[okiemark]

Well, I think knowing the exact speed is not that big of an issue, but I would like to see the oil pressure gauge.

[okiemark]

I'm kind of in a stuck position right now. I have the chassis ready to go, painted, fluids in everything except the motor oil, brakes pumped up and ready, but now I'm waiting on warmer weather to get into the major painting. I do have some straightening to do on the grill slats. Decided to clean up the radiator and get it ready to paint. Was brushing away and uncovered some numbers. Found a number that started with C4ZE. Now being a life long Ford guy, that spiked my attention. After that was 8005. Put that into Yahoo and came up with a Ford radiator number that fits Mustangs, Falcons, and Comets. The radiator looks good though. I don't know what to do with this.

[LarrBeard]

. The radiator looks good though. I don't know what to do with this.

Unless it looks badly scabbed in or has other issues, I'd just clean it up and move on. It makes one wonder if the bent grill slats might have happened just a few milliseconds before something punched a hole in the original radiator?

[okiemark]

Could have been. A couple of the slats in the middle were crushed in some right at the bottom.

[okiemark]

Well, I wasn't sure if that Ford radiator was supposed to be an interchange or just something really close. I didn't suspect anything when I took it off but they did have spacers to hold it out closer to the radiator. They had flex hoses and I bought the ones supposed to be on it so I'll see how they fit.

[okiemark]

Held the radiator up there so see how the new radiator hoses might fit up. The shape of them seems OK, but the radiator necks are smaller than on the engine so now I have new radiator hoses that won't work. I threw the old ones away and they were flex hoses. I'm pretty sure I can get some with one end smaller than the other. Oh, well I like to put new hoses on anyway when i'm doing this much work.

[gmwillys]

On odd ball projects, I like to take measurements of both the necks on the engine, and the rad necks. Then bend brazing rod to the shape desired for the routing. Then pay the local Napa store to peruse through their hanging preformed hoses until I can find something that will work. More often then not, you can find something that will work.

[okiemark]

I have done that. Out local Coop had a big selection of hoses and I could look through them on my own without anybody bothering me but they got rid of them so now I'll have to do what you suggested.

[gmwillys]

Once upon a time, the farm stores, ( Farm & Fleet in the Midwest, and the true man-mall Fleet Farms in the upper Midwest) you could dig through and find hoses on your own. Down in the south land, our choices are slim. Beyond the national chains of generic parts houses, there are no good places to go to. Even the one Napa store close by doesn't have crap.

[okiemark]

O'Reillys is pretty good here, so I'll probably try them first.

[okiemark]

Haven't posted much about mine lately, but have been working on the grill and housing it is mounted to. This has consumed more time than anything as of yet. Two slats were crushed in at the bottom and a couple were bent, but the biggest time has been spent trying to get the paint off and cleaned up for painting. Got the slats pretty good, and have been using a little Bondo to make things smooth. I am just about there. Also been waiting on warmer weather to be able to paint more, but now the issue here in Oklahoma as the weather warms up is the March wind which seems to blow everyday from one direction or the other. Then the issue that the warmer nicer days are going to make me want to do some fishing.

[bmorgil]

On mine the grill was one of the few body pieces that survived the rust. It was solid. Bent up here and there but solid. I spent a lot of time on it. When I gave it to my body man he said, "well that's a real good start". Needless to say it is perfect now. I really admire you guy's that can do body work. It takes a bit of an Artist.

[gmwillys]

Check out "The Grand Willys project" on the interwebs. He is a true metal craftsman.

[okiemark]

I am not much of a body man truthfully, but I have worked with metal a lot otherwise. It just takes an amateur like me a little more time to get it to the point that I am satisfied with it. It had several holes that I filled in too. It had a bug screen that was held on with screws and something else done in the past.

[okiemark]

Got the windshield frame out of the box and it had protective foam rubber of some kind with adhesive padding the frame on all four corners. This stuff does not pull off. You have to tear off what you can and then try to use something sharp to shave it as close as you can and then it is a nightmare. I'm afraid I'm going to basically take everything down to the metal to get it all off. I've never seen anything like it.

[bmorgil]

Try Isopropyl Alcohol. Soak it good and rub at it with a soaked rag. It will usually dissolve most adhesives (and permanent ink).

[okiemark]

I'll try that. I had some acetone and that is working better than anything else I had. I have to just tear it off piece by piece with my hands and then use a scraper to get what I can get with that, then soak a rag with acetone and start rubbing. It will gum up and smear around but after a few times over it will finally come off. And after a while of smelling the acetone you will be whistling a happy tune.

[okiemark]

I set the tub on the frame today. Starting to look like something!

[okiemark]

Got finished with the wiring, everything mechanical done, decided to try and fire her up. Switched it on and let the fuel pump fill the carb and it flooded over. Pulled the top off and looked like the float was adjusted too high, did a little bend and fixed that. Cranked and sputtered, cranked and sputtered, finally tried to run, then stayed running. After running a little while I adjusted the fuel mixture and it smoothed out pretty good. Warmed up and the thermostat opened, temp gauge not working. Oh, no, front seal leaking, valve cover leaking. I can fix that valve cover pretty easy. Thinking I may have to get a new front pully. The seal is new. I'm pretty much done except finishing painting, putting on the tail lights, and the front bumper. Oh, and putting the windshield in the new frame. Still work to do but glad to hear her run.

[bmorgil]

It lives! It is getting closer to "take it out and run it" time.

[okiemark]

I could put a pillow on top of the gas tank and drive it now. Don't put it past me.

[gmwillys]

Good deal! Glad you are getting closer to driving. A pillow will suffice for the first drive.

[okiemark]

A few picshttps://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6102&stc=1&d=1591421206

[bmorgil]

Looking super good! A pillow and of course, the Forum has a requirement that you post photo's of you driving sittin' on a pillow.

[LarrBeard]

Yep - the pillow picture is kind of your man-card.

I like the color!

[okiemark]

Got the tail lights on and working. Put the bumper on. I had painted it months ago and had it boxed up. It fit perfect. I'm going to pick up some grade 8 bolts in town today. Still got to paint the hood. I have put on one coat and have been sanding it smooth. A little bit more wiring to do and address the temp gauge. I'm thinking I'm going to just put a good quality gauge in the dash and forget about the on in the speedo cluster. The more I find out about those gauges, the less I like them. Wish I had just gotten a speedometer only and bought some gauges. And I have to figure out how to level the front end. The fenders don't have the brace that is supposed to bolt to the frame and the grill only bolts in the middle so that lets the front lean to one side or the other. I have to figure that one out. Also the cradle on the dash that fits over the steering tube is quite a bit off. I have to figure that one out too.

[5JeepsAz]

Pictures, Man!!

[okiemark]

Look back about 4 posts, AZ.

[timandzack]

Nice job Mark. Drive it over to Florida. I'll take you fishing

[okiemark]

Now that there is my type of offer!

[gmwillys]

Good deal. Your project is really coming along!

[okiemark]

Kind of on hold now. A thing called harvest is in the way.

[gmwillys]

Hope this year's crops are the best you've had.

[5JeepsAz]

Went back. That's a great jeep! Ditto on your good work and for a good harvest

[okiemark]

An update on mine. I put the bench seat back in that was in it when I bought it. It is in good shape but not what I want to end up with, but good enough for now. It came with some nice bucket seats that I have to make some brackets for probably this winter. I still have a front seal leak, even after I put in a new front pulley. I guess I'll have to pull the cover to check it out. I do have an extra seal. It is leaking pretty bad. Took the windshield frame and rubber up the local glass guy. Of all the things in our tiny town, we have a glass guy. He laughed when I told him a new one was $280. It probably won't cost me more than $50 as he can buy the glass and cut it out. Still have to put the final coat on the hood but you can't paint right now because we have been having 30 mph wind 24 hours a day for most of a month. Too much dirt in the air. I ordered a mechanical SW temp gauge. I gave up on trying to make the one in the cluster work. According to the test book they sent me, it is a current regulator problem which is nice to know but does nothing for me. I am disappointed with this part. The fuel level gauge works part of the time so I don't know what I'm going to do there. I am 95% done.

[okiemark]

I got the mechanical temp gauge yesterday and got it put in today. I was real anxious to see how warm this thing runs. Started it up and it took a while to rise above 120 then 140, then 165 and there it stayed. Idling, running down the road and it was high 90's today and without a shroud, that makes me pretty happy. Got the windshield and frame back from the glass guy the other day. It cost $130 to get a new glass cut and put in the frame. I didn't think that was bad at all. Now I'm down to painting the hood and getting the windshield frame on and the clamp downs adjusted properly. I am really pleased at how well this thing runs. The engine is one thing I didn't have to mess with if I can just get the front seal leak fixed. Driving it up and down the road a little more and getting used to how it drives. It rides really stiff, but i guess that is to be expected. I drove it after dark to see how the lights aimed and couldn't see a thing that needed to be changed.

[bmorgil]

Your moving along well on that thing now! Great on the temp! It is not always that easy to get em to run cool. The windshield is definitely a best kept secret. As your glass guy quickly recognized it is standard flat stock D.O.T. Safety glass. Any shop that can do glass for buses, equipment and semi's etc, can make them right there and they usually have the seals. That front cover seal can be easy or tough. It can be removed and replaced by pulling the front crank pulley. If the cover itself was removed and not reinstalled correctly, that is a different problem. The cover needs to be aligned with the pan and the seal needs to be centered over the crank, before the cover is tightened. If not it is the source of many endless leak paths. It is possible the seal is just worn out and maybe a grove on the crank pulley. If that's all, it is a fairly easy one to fix.

[okiemark]

It is possible that it wasn't aligned properly when I tightened the cover. I did put in a new seal. Every seal in this thing is new with exception of rear main. I thought about the pulley so I bought a new one, a heavier American built one but that didn't solve the problem and when I pulled the old pulley back out it wasn't grooved. I have an extra seal because I ordered one and had it before I bought a whole gasket set, so I will address that when I get time. On the glass, he used the frame for a pattern and not the old windshield. He said it wouldn't have stayed in so I don't know if the new frame opening is slightly bigger.

[bmorgil]

You made a good call on the windshield. I bought a pre-cut windshield and it was too big for my frame. I called the local glass guy and they showed up and ground it to fit in my garage! Then they told me in the future they could make a new one in less time than it took to fit the pre-cut one. I think TJones had a similar experience with the local glass guy.

[gmwillys]

Great to see your progress!

I had a local glass shop cut the glass for our 2A. It was around $150 or so, but I sprung for tinted glass. I ordered the window seals and the frame, but the glass was thicker then the original or the frame track was more narrow then the original, so we couldn't use the rubber seal. The solution for that style was to lay a bead of urethane in the bottom of the track, then install the glass. The followed off with a thin bead around the glass and frame. It looks factory until you really study it close.

[okiemark]

I got tinted as well. When I went to pick it up he told me he had to cut twice. He bought a 36" piece of glass but when he went to cut the new windshield a crack shot right across the middle of what would have been my windshield, so he had to start over. He said it happens from time to time.

[bmorgil]

Great example of why it is best to go right to the glass shop. I left it all up to them, the seal, the fitting and all. They came up with the correct seals, fitted the glass and put it right in there without a hitch. If they would have broke the glass it was my loss because I brought my own. If I would have just let them do the whole thing originally, it would have been their glass if it broke! And in the end it would have been $200 cheaper if they supplied the glass.

[gmwillys]

As much as a do-it myselfer as I tend to be, when it comes time to either put the original windshield back in the wagon, I will probably take it back up the road to the glass shop. The wagon windshield is a single piece, but it has a slight curve to it that one doesn't notice until you pull it out and package it up for storage. I will most likely get a new piece ordered through the glass company, due to the original has some fogging around the edges. The only reason I pulled it out was to repair some rust at the bottom of the interior dash, where the seal leaked.

[okiemark]

I've had mine done for a while now with the exception of a few details. Here are a few photos.

[okiemark]

More. More. More.

[okiemark]

And a couple more.

[okiemark]

A few things I still need to do. Paint the Willy's on the tailgate. Glovebox latch, can't seem to find one. Cover a couple of holes in the firewall. Fix front crank seal leak. Windshield wipers a possibility. Find me a horn. Winter time project will be to make some seat mounts to put in the bucket seats I already have. I have to devise something to hold the fenders level. Looking at the back it is slightly higher on one side. I'm thinking about swapping the springs on the back and see what happens.

[gmwillys]

Well done! You've done a great job on the 5, and by spring you'll have a show winner.

[bmorgil]

Looking like new man! If the springs and bushings are new, you have to drive it around a bit and let the springs and bushings settle in. Some bumps and passengers are helpful here. Mine leaned left then right, then perfect in about 100 miles.

[LarrBeard]

Could you make a close-up picture(s) of how the throttle return spring is rigged on your F-134? Mine is a jury rig to a bracket on the fire wall and I'd like to do a correction some day.

[okiemark]

I sure will. The one that was on it was way too long and they had bent it to make it work. I bought a new spring at Atwoods and the way I have it I'm not sure is the exact right place but it looks right and works.

[okiemark]

I could have had a brighter day to take the pics. We had a cooler than normal May, then a hot, dry, windy as hell June, now a wet July. I have never seen it rain so much in July. I'm in the middle of putting timing chains on my 4 wheel drive Ford so I'm driving my 2 wheel drive to check wells which is a challenge.

[okiemark]

Another thing I need to do is bushing the brake pedal on the shaft so it doesn't move around so maybe I can make it quit scraping on the floorboard.

[5JeepsAz]

Man, that is some Jeep! Impressive build and finish. Love looking at it! Hey, I think you need to post a picture in a mudbog down near the well. Just to let us see her (or him, does it have a name?) slathered up in mud and debris. love the plywood seat back too. Just great man!

[okiemark]

The only thing I can think of is Nellie Belle. Haven't got it in the mud yet. Don't want to have to clean it up. Ha. Thanks for the compliments.

[okiemark]

LarrBeard, here is a couple of photos. The bottom of the spring hooks under the bracket that holds the coil and the top hooks over the pin that goes through the carburetor linkage. That may not be exactly the way it was originally, but it works well that way.

[LarrBeard]

Interesting... does your accelerator linkage come up on the passenger side of the engine?

In the truck, it comes out just inboard of the exhaust manifold on the driver side, then goes through some monkey motion linkages across the top of the engine.

Just one more thing that makes old trucks "special".

[okiemark]

It does come up on the passenger side. There is a bracket that bolts on the back of the engine that makes that happen.

[bluesblooded]

Mark, you've done an amazing job on the Jeep. The red and black just makes it shine. It is a good choice of colors. Funny enough, I was listening to The Beatles and realized that your Jeep was built before they even launch their first album. It's great to see such old treasures still running because of you Guys! I'm having a ball reading all your threads. I envy your mechanical knowledge and abilities.

[okiemark]

Thanks, that was actually my first experience at a total restore, but I've spent most of my life working on pickups, farm equipment, and oilfield engines so that made it easy, just a lot of work.

[gmwillys]

Oil field engines..... You don't have a GMC 702 V-12 sitting in a barn? They were used in a lot of oil and water wells as pumps because of the massive torque at low RPM.

https://www.enginelabs.com/news/a-look-back-at-the-702ci-gmc-twin-six-v12-engine/

Not that I need such a massive engine, but it would be sweet to drop it into something and parade it around with a set of zoomies.

[okiemark]

No, never came across anything like that. In my earlier days I did work for a pipeline company and they used some Waukesha motors on compressors. Most were straight line motors. Engines I have come across in my pumping business have all been one cylinder. Fairbanks/Morse 503s and 739s. They have exposed valves. Ajax 7 1/2 X 10, 8 X 10, 9 X 12, they are two cycle engines with ports and reed valves. Continental or Arrow engines that actually have an oil pump an valves are enclosed. The newest motors are a Kubota which is not a bad engine but I personally don't care for because of the vibration.

[okiemark]

Well, I went to the tag agency today. They had to verify the ID plate in order get the title released. They are also an insurance agency so I got the insurance which was pretty cheap and then my tag. The tag was $10.50. Put 37 miles on it, the longest trip I have taken. It drives nice where the highway is reasonably smooth which is a challenge around here. Still having rough running issues. I put a tune up kit in. Distributor cap, rotor, points, and condenser but it didn't change a thing. I'm convinced it is in the carb. I have the idle set pretty fast to keep it running and it will run like that then start running slower, faster up and down and eventually it will just die. Running down the road you don't notice a thing.

[bmorgil]

Mark, if you give it some choke can you get it to idle down a little and stop surging and dying?

[okiemark]

Yeah, pulling the choke will speed it up and keep it running, but it just won't stay running at a slower idle. This thing used to run perfectly smooth and idle really slow. Seems to me something is intermittently starving it for gas.

[bmorgil]

Mark if it runs better with a little choke, that is the classic plugged idle jet in a Carter carb (assuming no vacuum leaks). The Idle "Jet" is actually a tube with a tiny and I mean tiny hole in it. They plug up for any reason they want. I have had and still see, the tube jet plugged brand new. The natural corrosion of the brass produces a very small nearly invisible green crust. It plugs that tube right up brand new. Anything in the fuel system will plug it if it finds its way there. When they are severely plugged the engine will not idle without the choke helping. I use a tiny wire and clean it out with that. When you hold it up to a light you will see why they can cause trouble. The hole is so small you have to hold it just right to see any light through it. The slightest piece of crud and, its plugged. If the idle air adjustment does very little to the idle, the idle fuel circuit is suspect. It sounds like yours is approaching wont even idle. Take a look at a drawing on what that jet looks like. It is a tiny "crap funnel".

[okiemark]

That sounds about right to me. I figure since it happened while it was running it might have been a particle of something very small. I get this on small engines that sit for a year or so that I didn't run the gas out of and it will plug the main jet. I'll get to it first chance I get.

[okiemark]

The metering rod was lying in the bottom of the bowl. I've got to figure out how to keep that from happening again.

[5JeepsAz]

You'll get it figured. Start on something else and it will come to you maybe. I had to put a somewhat vintage screw in a horizontal pin to keep it from sliding through. It works. I'm not a mechanic genius like these other fellers but I would add as a three footed maniac driver that maybe don't hot rod the thing once you do get it back together. Something or other about tolerances.

[gmwillys]

Here is all the information you may ever need on the carburetor you should have installed on your '57.

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter-YF-YFA-Technical_ep_317.html

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/YF-Metering-Rod-Adjustment_ep_1864.html

[bmorgil]

The metering rod was lying in the bottom of the bowl. I've got to figure out how to keep that from happening again.

Wow how did that happen? Do you have the screw adjustable rod or the "bend the tab" adjustment?

[okiemark]

I have to take a hard look at it this afternoon. When I got the kit there were no instructions or any type of exploded view. I could have gotten something in the wrong place or position.

[LarrBeard]

I'm going to guess that you are looking at a secondary issue. The metering rod came loose when you took it apart; it's probably not the idle problem you were chasing. The metering rod would cause high speed issues- but it's a Jeep, who knows?

[bmorgil]

The metering rod provides the transition, cruise and high speed fuel. If the rod fell out it should have been way rich everywhere but full load. Unless the rod fell into the jet closing it, then it would be lean everywhere but idle. It sounds like it was doing its own thing!

[okiemark]

The spring that is supposed to hold it was off, and that would have been my fault. I may have just failed to get it on right when I put the thing together. Now it will run better, but now as well as it did originally. I'll probably pull that idle jet out and have a look at that.

[okiemark]

Here it is with the new winch.

[bmorgil]

Oh man that is a serious tool. I like that for sure. The garage has a vehicle that would love one of those. A genuine Warn. It doesn't get any better than that. There is an old movie, a comedy called the Gods Must Be Crazy. In it a guy hooks his Land Rover (nicknamed "The Anti-Christ") up to a tree and the winch gets stuck on! Hilarious it climbs the tree. I thought that was some kind of trick, so I went down to the 4x4 shop (no Google then) and checked out the specks on some Warn winches. Yes indeed they will lift a Land Rover!

[okiemark]

Impressive tree too to be able to stand up to that!

[gmwillys]

The Gods Must Be Crazy is a great movie. A worthy winter's day watch for sure.

I know I've told the story before of the Ford tractor skidder hanging from the hydraulic winch attached to a massive limb of an oak tree before.

Glad you went with the Warn winch. It just looks right on your 5, and will last just as long.

[bmorgil]

Modern slap stick.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4RXV-p_Ec6Q

[okiemark]

Well, I watched a You Tube video of that and the winch didn't actually get stuck, the guy was distracted by the girl in her underwear stuck in the briar tree. Totally understandable.

[bmorgil]

Haha! A justifiable event.

[5JeepsAz]

Awesome ground up build. What went into the decision to get the new tub?

[okiemark]

The outer part of the body was actually in pretty good shape. The problem was that the floor was rusted out. The fenders were OK but would have taken a lot of work. The bed had been replaced with a God awful piece of metal that I was going to replace. No tailgate and I wanted a tailgate. Most of the bracing underneath was rotted out. Figuring up all the parts got me to at least half the price of a new tub kit. When I figured in the time and labor to get it the way I wanted it I decided to go with a new tub. Also I lost the vision in my left eye about 5 years ago and trying to weld is really difficult now, especially on light materials and I used to be a welder. No depth perception at short distances.

[bmorgil]

That is what I faced also Mark. Literally nothing left to start with! My floorboard and rear area was not recognizable. I was Happy with what I got from KW. It was a newer tub kit and had all the updates M.D. Juan had made through he years. There is an excellent Thread on the CJ3A page where they made contact with the M.D. Juan Quality Manager. He actually ended up buying a CJ. The thread is all about members writing in with the corrections they wanted on the tubs. I can tell you for what you get, mine went on pretty well. It did need some work here and there. For what you pay delivered, you need to expect to have to do a little work. I detailed what I had to do to mine in my thread on peeJ.

Yours looks fantastic!

[5JeepsAz]

Just smiling. Have fun!!!

[mrgrtt123]

I am curious to find out if this build is done.