Hello, I am new to the forum and the new owner of a 1962 M38A1.

[AZTROOPER]

So I just got it home yesterday. I have not heard it run, as both batteries were dead. It appears to be very original, 24-volt, 4cyl, 3 speed. Lots of broken wires, but it appears everything is there. As expected on an unrestored 62' lots of seals leaking, but very little rust. I live in AZ and was told this is an AZ jeep from the USMC. Not sure how the previous owner knows where its been since it is from USMC. It does have all the data plates and it was delivered on 08/1962. I am looking to keep it original, but not a showpiece. I want to drive it. It hasn't been driven since 2017 and shows 94K original miles. I will post some pictures soon. I am looking for a local source for parts and knowledge in the Mesa AZ area or anywhere really. I do not know anything about the 24-volt system. Howdy!53805381538253835384

[LarrBeard]

It looks like you have a winner there. Even the canvas and bows look nice.

I'd bet the two locked ammo cans weren't standard (or maybe they were .. Ira?).

The 24-volt head end stuff (generator, shielded cables, voltage regulator) looks fairly intact. There really is no mystery to a 24-volt system. It has all of the usual parts, they do the usual stuff - they are just hooked up a bit differently because of the shielding on the cables to keep electrical noise out of the radios.

You also seem to have a lot of the fording lines - many of these vehicles had them cut off and thrown away since folks didn't plan on crossing butt-deep creeks any more.

Go get a couple of batteries and let the adventure begin.

Keep us posted...

[bmorgil]

Man is that a nice find!

[AZTROOPER]

It looks like you have a winner there. Even the canvas and bows look nice.

I'd bet the two locked ammo cans weren't standard (or maybe they were .. Ira?).

The 24-volt head end stuff (generator, shielded cables, voltage regulator) looks fairly intact. There really is no mystery to a 24-volt system. It has all of the usual parts, they do the usual stuff - they are just hooked up a bit differently because of the shielding on the cables to keep electrical noise out of the radios.

You also seem to have a lot of the fording lines - many of these vehicles had them cut off and thrown away since folks didn't plan on crossing butt-deep creeks any more.

Go get a couple of batteries and let the adventure begin.

Keep us posted...


Hi, thanks for your post. There isn't anything in the ammo cans,I will use them for storage I guess. I was told it was an old USMC jeep and a different owner removed the snorkel. It does have the water proof spark plugs and distributor I think. I am gonna drain the gas and oil and flush the radiator and hopefully it will start.

[AZTROOPER]

Thanks. I can't wait to get it running. I want to look up the military service history, any suggestions?

[gmwillys]

Welcome AZTROOPER,

If it's an relief, your prize is a Marine Corp veteran. The big clue is the air lift numbers, i.e. the rear bumper is square and has loops at the ends for helicopters to sling the Jeep into combat. The Marines were the only branch that used the style of bumper.

One the service records, you would need to see if you can find the bumper number, oddly enough found on both sides of the hood. Web sources that may be able to help is g503.com, if you have the number. The bumper number has no relation to the vehicle serial number on the data plates. Records for deployment is spotty at best, so don't be too disappointed.

[okiemark]

Looks like you've got a lot to work with there.

[LarrBeard]

A couple of years ago, several of us put our heads together and came up with what we consider to be "best practices" whan you're trying to wake up an engine that has been hibernating for a long time.

Startup Best Practices


It is not unusual for folks who have just found a barn Jeep or who are starting to work on Grandpa’s CJ3 to ask what to do to get the engine running. While coaxing an old Jeep back to life isn’t all that difficult a job, doing it in too big of a hurry can turn what could have been a pretty good engine into a basket case pretty quickly. Several of us who have gone through our repairs and restorations have come up with some things that will cover a lot of the issues that you will find trying to wake up that old engine. Thanks to Forum contributors Gmwillys, LarrBeard and Pelago for their suggestions.

A good starting place is to check the engine oil level, and oil condition. Go ahead and pull the drain plug. If the oil is milky, then the odds are that the head gasket was likely the cause of the Jeep to be parked. A Willys L or F-head has an oil capacity of about 4 quarts. (The Super Hurricane 6 holds 5-quarts). If a lot more than 4 or 5 quarts comes out, there is a possibility that the block is cracked and coolant has leaked into the oil pan.

Take this opportunity to check the coolant. For initial checkout, it’s not a bad idea to pull the thermostat. When you get to the point that things run, you don’t want a stuck thermostat to blow off or split a hose and give you a hot water shower! If it is clean and green, then there should not be any issues with the head gasket. If there is no coolant in the engine, add water (about 11 or 12 quarts) and see if water leaks out the oil pan drain plug – not a good sign. Radiator leaks and leaky hoses show up about now as well. Resist the temptation to pour stop leak in the radiator. It will usually cause more problems than it solves.

Next, pull the spark plugs and put in a few ounces of engine oil/transmission fluid and a good dose of penetrating oil into each cylinder. Do this before attempting to turn the engine by hand. A word of caution; place a shop towel over the exposed spark plugs holes to catch any oil from running down the side of the F head and you don’t want stuff falling down in spark plug holes in an L-head. Let the engine sit with the concoction for a half hour or so, in order for the penetrating oil to seep into the rings. There could be twenty years of crud in there that will bind the rings to the cylinder wall. If the mixture seeps past the rings, it will just drain into the crankcase and out the drain plug.

While you wait, remove the tappet cover on the driver's side, and lube the cam shaft and tappets. Everything in there is going to be dry and dirty. Inspect for broken springs, or damaged valves. At this time, adjust the fan belt to where it is snug in the water pump and generator pulleys.

Use the fan to carefully rock the engine back and forth. Resist the urge to use a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley. If it takes that much effort to turn the engine, there are problems. If the engine turns freely, then continue to turn the engine through several times until both the compression and exhaust strokes have been completed. Pay special attention to any noises or a feel of something hanging up the rotation. On the F head engines, pull the valve cover to ensure that the intake valves are cycling fully. Oil the top end well because it’s going to be dry after sitting all that time.

Once you are convinced that the engine is loose and lubricated, it’s time to look into the wiring. Inspect the wires leading from the ignition switch to the coil for mouse damage or just plain old wear and rot. Repair any damage found to prevent a fire hazard. If things are in bad shape, it may be easier to just jury rig a wire from the battery to the coil and another to the starter solenoid to bypass a bunch of wires that may have issues. Remember to disconnect the old wires!

Once all the wires are cleared for electricity, it will be time for a battery. It would be helpful to have a helper when checking the starter for proper operation, in order to pull a cable off the battery in case the starter sticks engaged. If all checks out to this point, then it will be time to check for spark.

Pull the distributor cap, and check the points to ensure that the contacts are clean (they probably won’t be), and are adjusted correctly. It wouldn't be a bad idea to hook up a tach and dwell meter to the distributor to adjust the points, at this time.

Check the cap for cracks and clean the contacts, then reassemble the distributor. When you get to the point of cranking the engine, check for spark at the plugs. Check every plug – this is the easiest place to find an open spark plug wire. A helper is really a bonus for this step!

If you have gotten this far with no major issues, it’s time to add fresh oil. Changing the old oil is a very good idea because you have no way of knowing just what is in that crankcase! For both L and F-134 engines, straight 30W, non-detergent is what the book calls for. New and improved isn’t necessarily better.

It would be prudent at this time to run a compression test to determine if all cylinders will support the engine running. If the compression is right, and there is spark, then reinstall the spark plugs, (a clean used set would do, since there might be a chance of fouling a good set). Or, you might want to leave the plugs out until you crank the engine to prime the fuel system.

Check the fuel tank for contamination/rust/holes. If the tank is a mess, (and it is usually worse than you think it is), connect a temporary gas line to the inlet of the fuel pump, and run a fuel line into an external fuel source. Make sure the external fuel source is secure. Once the engine starts and everyone gets excited, spilling a gallon of gas under the vehicle is a good way to spoil the whole day. Crank the engine (easier to do with the plugs out) and observe the carburetor for fuel leaks. When the fuel bowl has adequate fuel in it, install plugs and try and start the engine.

Resist the urge to use a starting aid such as ether or another starting fluid. This could cause harm to the pistons or a fragile head gasket. Have a clean rag or a glove close to the carburetor to snuff out any carb fire that may happen if an intake valve doesn't fully seat. Also, if there is a back fire through the intake, check to make sure that there is no obstruction in the exhaust pipe. Mice will store a ton of acorns and bedding within the muffler. (They can also pack the bell housing with straw as tightly as a hay bale!)

Listen to the engine to determine if it is receiving enough or too much fuel. If the choke butterfly isn't closing enough to pull enough fuel into the carburetor, cover the carb inlet with your hand to limit the amount of air going into the carb. Shutting off the air supply allows the carburetor to draw more fuel into the intake. This may have to be done until the engine is running, and the air fuel mixture is adjusted.

If you are not receiving fuel into the carburetor, and you have fuel at the carburetor inlet, then the needle and seat are stuck closed within the fuel bowl. If you are receiving too much fuel, then the float may also be stuck in the down position, allowing fuel to drain constantly into the carb throat. A minor carb kit may be needed for the gaskets, if the float and needle need attention. Eventually you will want to rebuild the carburetor – nothing except whiskey and wine improve by sitting twenty or so years.

Since old gauges and sensors are always suspect, it is a good idea to put a mechanical oil gauge on the oil sensor port of the block. When the engine starts, pay attention to the oil pressure, to ensure that it comes up quickly after start. Listen for any odd noises, and make note of anything out of the norm. If it doesn’t sound right – it probably isn’t! Try not to race the engine until you have a good sense that everything is normal. There is a lot of crud and dirty oil in the galleries and passages in the engine at this point. Leave the radiator cap off to observe that there are no combustion gases escaping through the coolant. Let the engine reach operating temperature, and then shut it off. Change the engine oil, the oil filter if the vehicle has one and change the coolant. You will be surprised at how nasty the oil and coolant are. Change them again after you’ve driven a couple of hundred miles. It takes time for all the crud to work its way out.

If all is normal, then you have yourself a good engine. Now, the real work begins. Good Luck!

[AZTROOPER]

HI, thank you so much for posting this. It ran 2 years ago, but I will be following the guidance posted here. I have drained the oil (very dirty), pulled the plugs (appeared fouled pretty bad), changed the oil filter and scooped out the disgustingly dirty oil in the filter housing. poured water in the radiator and it began to drip from the bottom of the water pump housing. I ordered a gasket and should have it tomorrow. Next, I'll dring the gas tank and lines. I'll spray some cleaner in the carb and let it work for a while. I need to get a couple of batteries and prepare for glory.

[LarrBeard]

poured water in the radiator and it began to drip from the bottom of the water pump housing. I ordered a gasket and should have it tomorrow.

Before you start taking off the water pump, look carefully at the leak. There is a weep hole in the bottom of the water pump casing that will drip water if the seals on the pump shaft are bad.

I'd hate for you to go to the work of pulling the pump and find that the gasket was good - the seals were bad. Personally, I would suspect the seals over the gasket.

If it isn't pizzling badly (a technical term), I'd suggest living with it for a while until you get a bit deeper and generate a list of to-do chores.

[AZTROOPER]

Before you start taking off the water pump, look carefully at the leak. There is a weep hole in the bottom of the water pump casing that will drip water if the seals on the pump shaft are bad.

I'd hate for you to go to the work of pulling the pump and find that the gasket was good - the seals were bad. Personally, I would suspect the seals over the gasket.

If it isn't pizzling badly (a technical term), I'd suggest living with it for a while until you get a bit deeper and generate a list of to-do chores.
8

Its dripping pretty steady. It looks like where the pump would seal against the block. Not sure about the seals. Can just the seals be replaced or need a new water pump? Do I have to remove the water pump to replace seals, will need new gasket anyways if so.

[bmorgil]

AZRROOPER, go to here https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys.com/showthread.php?2278-TM9-8015-1-Engine-and-Clutch-for-1-4-Ton-4x4-Utility-Truck-M38A1 on the forum. This is in the Tech Section. Take a look at Chapter 4 section XIII. That might help you get familiar with rebuilding it. The Universal Jeep Manual will also help a lot. It shows the removal and replacement process. It is for the Civilian Jeeps but, there are many similarities. I am going to try to post the TM9-804a to the tech section, as soon as Amy or Rachel our Forum, gets back. It shows the R&R of engine accessories in Military fashion.

The weep hole Larry is referring to is on the bottom of the pump under the shaft. When it leaks it usually runs back towards the motor and runs down the front of the block. It has a leather "Unobtainium" seal that dries out or wears out. When it goes water drips out of that hole. If you can find an Auto Parts store that will lend you a cooling system pressure tester, you can save yourself the guess work.

It goes on in place of the radiator cap. It has a hand pump and a gauge. You give it a few pumps of air. The cooling system on the 134's is low pressure. About 6lbs is all it likes. If you pump the pressure on the tester up to 4 to 6lbs and there are any leaks, the water will come out at the leak spots.

It sounds like you lost the water pump. It is replaced as a unit. It can be rebuilt. I tried and failed! I recommend a factory rebuilt unit from KW, once you are sure it is the water pump. And it will need a new gasket and fresh Anti-Freeze.

[LarrBeard]

It sounds like you lost the water pump. It is replaced as a unit. It can be rebuilt. I tried and failed! I recommend a factory rebuilt unit from KW, once you are sure it is the water pump. And it will need a new gasket and fresh Anti-Freeze.

I'd try to borrow the pressure tester. With a little pressure, the pizzle becomes a spurt and you'll know just where to look.

You can buy a repair kit for about $35.00 and skin knuckles, teach the grand kids some new words and still have a leak - or buy a new pump (KWAS 800002) for about $68.00 and just be done with it. It ain't worth fixin'. You're gonna find things that really are worth fixing later on. Don't wear yourself out early.

(We're not making fun of you or your problem - I replaced the pump on the '48 as well.)

[gmwillys]

As LarrBeard and Bmorgil stated, it is in your best interest to obtain a factory rebuilt unit. You'll find religion trying to replace the shaft in your original, or at least to get it to stop leaking.

Just make sure that you get the 800002 offered by KW, because the civilian pumps are longer on the pulley end, and the belts will not align.

[okiemark]

I think a new pump would be a good investment on something that hasn't run for quite a while. As for scraping knuckles, I think this jeep has caused me to hit my hand with a hammer more than anything I have ever worked on.

[gmwillys]

Hammer divits in the web of your hand builds character.... But if you could avoid it, by all means use the reman.

[bmorgil]

(We're not making fun of you or your problem - I replaced the pump on the '48 as well.)

Haha! Clearly making fun of ourselves. I have replaced mine after a meticulous rebuild of the original pump. I took all the steps including milling the seal surface flat. I was lucky I fired the motor up in the frame without the body. It SPEWED water and anti-freeze all over the floor and the front of the motor. I then replaced it with a KW. Sweet sailing now. I am going to guarantee many on this forum have replaced a water pump on a 134 Willys.

[AZTROOPER]

Hi guys, I think a "new" pump is gonna be the way I go. I have a new issue. I think I have fuel in my oil. The previous owner put an electronic fuel pump on it and I am wondering if it too much pressure and the fuel is getting by the rings.

Was just thinking about this. I am not sure about the pressure theory. It would still be only so much as the jet would restrict it. ????

[bmorgil]

Is the mechanical fuel pump still hooked up along with the electric pump? If so I would suspect the diaphragm in the mechanical pump has a hole in it.

[AZTROOPER]

Hello bmorgil, I think it is still hooked up. What are your thoughts on just replacing the whole pump with an OE mechanical pump? I am not sure why he put on the electric pump. I also ordered a carburetor kit for my 950SA6. I have never rebuilt a carb.

[bmorgil]

I can see no reason to not use the original mechanical pump. I would guess the electric pump is on there because the previous owner lost the mechanical pump. Eventuality the diaphragm rips open and the fuel pumps right into the crankcase.

I would hook it back up stock, with a filter between the pump and the carb. It is a great little fuel system. As the guy's here will tell you, the carbs on these things really don't run well with a lot of pressure.

Forget its a carb. Just think about it as a lot of small parts! There are some really good rebuilders out there. There is also some good help on You Tube.

[gmwillys]

If in doubt, you can contact Scoutpilot over at OldJeepcarbs.com He is one of the best carb specialists around.

[LarrBeard]

I second the notion of keeping an original mechanical pump. There is a vacuum boost pump on there for the wipers that you don't get with an after market electric pump. Tens of thousands of vehicles ran millions of miles with them.. Now, even a new mechanical pump may deliver more fuel pressure than the carburetor likes, so don't discount needing a little fuel pressure regulator when you're done. (2 PSI is plenty).

As for rebuilding a carburetor - go for it! Remember we said earlier not to fool with the water pump - later on there would be something worth rebuilding? Well this is the first project.

Look at You Tube, Google "950SA Carburetor rebuild" and you will find all the information you need. Take pictures with your phone as you take it apart.

Just watch out for the Dammit springs - the ones that go "sproing", fly across the bench and make you say "D......it"

[okiemark]

And go get a gallon can of carburetor cleaner. It is good to clean up other parts too.

[AZTROOPER]

Hello Guys!!

Well, I have installed a new water pump and no leaks. I also installed a new exhaust pipe from the first section after the manifold to include a new muffler. For now, I used the small tailpipe end, I will go for the fording extension in time.

I have removed the driver seat and the fuel tank. I am cleaning it out. I also removed the fuel pump off the block. It is mechanical, but it is the wrong pump. It's a model 572-1614 Airtex for 1945-1958 jeeps. So, now I need to talk with Mike at Kaiser-Willys to try and get the correct one. I am going to go back to the OEM fuel system.

Next, I need to tackle the brakes. I pushed the peddle and it went to the floor.

I am looking for a passenger-side wiper motor and wiper? Anyone?

I appreciate all the advice and knowledge all of you have given me, PLEASE KEEP IT UP!!!!

[gmwillys]

Great plan on going back to original on the fuel set up. I'm fairly certain that the A1s kept the vacuum wipers throughout the service run, so the original style of double acting fuel pump/vacuum pump will look and function properly.

The brake going to the floor is a common issue, with a not so popular solution. Invest the funds and buy all brake parts new. From the master cylinder, lines, soft lines, and wheel cylinders. The second bit of advice is to purchase American made pieces. This will save you time and headaches by preventing fitment issues. I have heard that Crown has improved its quality of brake components, but I would still stick with domestic made Wagoner products.

[AZTROOPER]

Hi,
So far I've gotten most of my parts from KaiserWillys.com. Parts have been good so far. I have gotten some parts from O'Riely's, but I haven't even begun the brakes yet. I am gonna finish the fuel pump and lines first. I want to have it running by Memorial Day, but who knows. I got the M38A1 so cheap, I don't mind putting some $$ in it.

[LarrBeard]

Invest the funds and buy all brake parts new.

I second that notion. I never knew that the '48 could stop so well until I did the restoration and redid the brakes - and I've been driving it for over 60 years.

Folks spend a lot of time to get their Jeep to run and look good, but there are times where there is a temptation to cut corners on brakes. You can't see the corrosion in the brake lines. The pitted wheel cylinders leak, just a little but they never get better. Brake drums may have been turned to their limit and then a bit more.

Remember that phone commercial about things being "Good Enough"; "If the brakes don't stop it, something else will"? Not a good situation.

[AZTROOPER]

I just took a look at all four brakes. It looks like someone may have recently replaced them. They are in very good shape, no wheel cylinder leaks and plenty of pad. I am going to replace the lines and the master just in case.

[bmorgil]

The pedal to the floor could be the master cylinder seal for sure. However, you being in AZ, the location of the master cylinder needs a look. Heat was an issue with the location of the Master Cylinder, and the exhaust pipe from the manifold. It (exhaust) goes right under the master. Heat of course rises, from the pipe and in AZ the road! There is a heat shield that you should be sure is still there. It goes right under the Master. It is made of some form of insulating material. Most were left off on the first brake job. In AZ on parade in the heat of the sun, you may need it. The seals in the Master can cook and fail. Like wise setting in the AZ sun is tough on the wheel cylinder seals also. If you fill it up and hold pressure, and there's no leaks, Your good to go. The brakes on these are rudimentary and just good enough when in good mechanical condition. They are not going to be effective if any part of them is not up to par.

[AZTROOPER]

Hello,
Thank you for the great info. I had no idea about the heat shield. I will look to replace it, as it is no longer there.
I am going to buy a new one, it looks like it wasn't replaced when they did the last brake work. The top on the cylinder has the standard large square "nut", but it has a large bolt sticking out of the top as well.

[gmwillys]

The pipe plug with the center threaded is an original part. The threaded hole is for the fording kit, and a brass fitting goes in it to vent up into the air cleaner assembly. Usually the tube is corroded and breaks off after time, so the fitting was removed and the bolt was installed to plug the hole. The later civilian plugs were vented via a brass filter within the plug, which wouldn't work out too well while swimming.

[AZTROOPER]

Well,

I have oil in the engine, a new fuel pump, Master Cylinder, and carburetor. Bled the brakes and they are working great. I put fuel in the tank. I need to get 2 batteries and do a compression check. Then try to start it. Also new antifreeze.

I am searching for three M38A1 wheels if anyone knows of any.

Monday, 021020, I got 2 batteries, installed, tried to start it. No Go. It won't turn over. I have power to the starter switch on the starter, but no go.

[AZTROOPER]

Ok. I did a bench test of the starter. I just wasn't pushing the plunger all the way in. I re-installed it and its spinning now.

I tried to start it, but I realized I need to prime the new fuel pump.

Hearing the motor turn over slowly in the way they do, brought me right back to my Army days in the M151.

[bmorgil]

Oh just wait till it fires! Its like stepping back in time. The nostalgia factor on these old Jeeps, especially the military ones, is fantastic. Tooling along at 48 MPH with the wind truly in your face, side, back and feet, is a riot!

[5JeepsAz]

Tons of progress on this! So I ignored the brakes on my 64 civilian jeep truck, they were "fixed like new" when it came to me, just needed TLC, etc etc. Six months later it's getting the new brakes everyone here advised all along. That was after I ended up in a different lane when I hit em hard. That said, should have listened. I should have started with the brakes... As importantly, really looking forward to reading about this build. Good luck with it.

[bmorgil]

One thing AZT, on that compression test remember that the numbers listed are for a warm engine. Don't get to alarmed if they are low. You are looking for how many pumps (compression strokes) it takes to get to the highest number. The procedure in the Service Manual is excellent. Your looking for the numbers to be high enough to fire and all cylinders acting nearly the same after 4 strokes.

[AZTROOPER]

Gonna try again on Sunday. I'll report back progress. I've rebuilt the carburetor. Most likely gonna need new fuel lines. The fuel left over in the carb was so bad, it had hardened like amber in one chamber. Can just imagine what the lines look like

[bmorgil]

That carb is notorious for clogging the tiny tube/jet in the low speed jet assembly. If you didn't pass a small wire through it, they get clogged inside. If you put in the new one there is a chance it will be clogged just from storage. The brass corrodes and forms a small amount of residue inside. We are talking minuscule amounts here in a tiny passage. I have rebuilt a few of this style jet now and each time right out of the box that passage was corroded shut. If it is clogged, the motor will not idle below 1500 RPM or so without stalling. When you hold the jet tube to a light just right, you must be able to see through it. It is difficult to line it up just right with a light but, you will see it right away when it's clear. If you google "WO carburetor wont idle" you find many people have fired up their freshly rebuilt WO carb only to find it wont idle without the choke on.

Just a thought, if you haven't gotten to far it is a great thing to be sure of. It is one of the most frequent problems with the WO carb.

[AZTROOPER]

Got it running today!!!!! it's only running on 3 cylinders. I was able to drive it around a little. The transmission/gearbox worked great. The transfer case worked, went into four-wheel drive. I gotta find a set of plugs and wires.

[AZTROOPER]

well, I found the fourth plug. put it in and ran like a top. took it out and blew the head gasket. Didn't even run it hard. Got it ready to remove the head. I have never done a head gasket on a flathead. I'm having trouble getting it off. I will post pics of where I am at so if I am forgetting something chime in.591659165917

[gmwillys]

There is one head bolt down inside the intake, just under the carburetor, that often gets missed.

[LarrBeard]

well, I found the fourth plug. put it in and ran like a top. took it out and blew the head gasket. Didn't even run it hard. Got it ready to remove the head. I have never done a head gasket on a flathead. I'm having trouble getting it off. I will post pics of where I am at so if I am forgetting something chime in.591659165917

Technically you are working on an F-head engine, the F-134. The flathead has both intake and exhaust valves in the block, the F-head had the intakes in the head.

As GMWillys said, look for a little short bolt under the carburetor. Once you get all the bolts out, just find a corner and pry. It is probably glued down with the epoxy grade Permatex. Once you get the head off, look it over for cracks and for a warp.

P. S. It will "almost" run if you forget to put that little short bolt back. My rebuilder didn't and it took us a LONG time to find it.

Good luck.

[AZTROOPER]

Technically you are working on an F-head engine, the F-134. The flathead has both intake and exhaust valves in the block, the F-head had the intakes in the head.

As GMWillys said, look for a little short bolt under the carburetor. Once you get all the bolts out, just find a corner and pry. It is probably glued down with the epoxy grade Permatex. Once you get the head off, look it over for cracks and for a warp.

P. S. It will "almost" run if you forget to put that little short bolt back. My rebuilder didn't and it took us a LONG time to find it.

Good luck.
I had forgot I had forgotten to remove that bolt under the carburetor. I took it out and the head came right off. Took the head to a trusted mechanic and they're going to do a service on it including the valves. Getting every getting everything cleaned up now and prepping to put it back together.
Not sure when the head will be back I'll keep everyone updated.

[LarrBeard]

I had forgot I had forgotten to remove that bolt under the carburetor.

Oops. Well the little devil does hide well - just remember to put it back.

Don't skimp on a head gasket, BMorgil and GMWillys have good opinions of what is a best choice.

[gmwillys]

Don't skimp on head gasket. Fel-Pro is my go to engine head gaskets. Pay now, or pay more later. You can order them from your favorite parts house. Buy the complete gasket set, so then you have the new valve cover gaskets.

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1955/jeep/willys/engine_mechanical/head_gasket.html?rp=head_gasket_set

[AZTROOPER]

5955595659575958

5958

So I thought Id repaint the valve cover, as I stripped the paint I found this underneath. It makes me think this is not the original valve cover, its missing the vent hole and I don't think it belongs on my 1962 M38A1.

Thoughts?

Well, I just found a page that said they actually were used in the M38A1.

[LarrBeard]

I went googling and I found a picture of a NOS engine in the crate. Note the yellow "HURRICANE-4" sticker at the right front, just where yours is!

[AZTROOPER]

I went googling and I found a picture of a NOS engine in the crate. Note the yellow "HURRICANE-4" sticker at the right front, just where yours is!

I found a photo as well. The confusing part for me is that my Jeep is one of the quote quote amphibious ones that are sealed so you can use a snorkel and all of that. All of the valve covers that I've seen like that have a breather coming out of the top and mine does not

[LarrBeard]

I found a photo as well. The confusing part for me is that my Jeep is one of the quote quote amphibious ones that are sealed so you can use a snorkel and all of that. All of the valve covers that I've seen like that have a breather coming out of the top and mine does not

The M38A1's were one of the least configuration controlled items ever brought into government inventory. The Marines had a different version that, in most nomenclaturing systems should have been an M38A2 or maybe an M38A1(V)2 to show that is wasn't exactly the same as the others.

Then you get the swapping around of parts in motor pools or organizational level shops, like swapping parts on rifles, radios and such - and pretty soon you get to the First Rule of Jeep:

Rule1: What you see is what you have. Believe nothing you are told or what is written until you verify it with your own eyes.

That leads to a variation of Rule 2 as it applies to military vehicles:

Rule 2: Never say that the Army/Marines/Air Force/Willys would never have "__________ " (fill in the blank).

You're starting to catch the Jeep virus. A blown head gasket leads to just repainting the valve cover. That's going to make everything else look bad. Now you're going to need a new HURRICANE-4 decal. Since shipping costs so much, you might as well get a few more decals to clean up the set on the oil filter and a few other places, they won't cost that much more. Yep, you're catching the J-virus.

Welcome to the infected.

[AZTROOPER]

Well, I got the head gasket fixed and adjusted the valves. Now the rear main seal is leaking and the clutch won't disengage and when I start it, it's still engaged. If I try to shift it just grinds the gears. Occasionally it will shift perfectly. I have adjusted it as far as it will go. Looks like I need a new clutch and other parts. Oh yeah, also need to replace the rear differential seal, it's leaking, and the rear side of the transfer case is leaking too. I think it may have been more than 2 years since its been run. I had to put on 2 new oil lines, of course, I had to paint the filter housing and mounting bracket. I am thinking I should just pull the motor and trans. I am finding myself redoing the work I've already done.

[gmwillys]

J = just
e = empty
e = every
p = pocket

[TJones]

J = just
e = empty
e = every
p = pocket

That’s NO LIE gmwillys:rolleyes:

[LarrBeard]

Can I have an "AMEN"?

After your pockets are empty, start looking through the couch cushions!

[bmorgil]

What a great way to burn money however!

[TJones]

Can I have an "AMEN"?

After your pockets are empty, start looking through the couch cushions!

AMEN Brother!!!!
Or maybe start searching through the Brides pockets:rolleyes::rolleyes:

[okiemark]

I just keep finding more things I need.

[bmorgil]

In your Wife's pockets?

[LarrBeard]

No slack around here ....

[bmorgil]

You have to be quick or okiemark will beat you to it!

[5JeepsAz]

I'd rather have a horse that works than couch change I can't give to the dudes who confiscated my truck. Maybe a mule. I'd take a mule.