New guy here

[Hossfly]

Hey guys and gals, I’m new to this forum. Have been lurking around for a few days, setting up an account etc. I bought a supposed to be ‘45 Jeep from a pawn shop about 11 years ago. Was delivered to Shreveport where we met and exchanged money for Jeep. Guy cranked it and we drove to my trailer then to home. Drove off trailer and around property, testing all gears low high 4 wheel etc. parked in big shop. Parked in shop and pulled out yesterday. This Jeep has been converted to run on propane. So put bottle to hose, primed, new battery, fired it up, also has been converted to 12 volts. Nothing works other than ignition system and engine seams to have good compression. Planing on just getting everything working. Then deciding what to do next. It’s a CJ2A #208286 should be 1948 model? Flat finder and 2 piece wind shield and hood. Everything else pretty much stock. My question is should I go ahead and convert back to gasoline or leave it with the propane. I can buy propane for $1.45 per gallon, burns clean, and I have access to over 1000 gallons of it in my large tank, and can fill small tanks at my leisure. Just don’t know how much power I’ll be losing and at what distance can go on 20# tank. Have 2 other jeeps bought for parts. ‘53 round hood and another ‘48 with locked up engine and good frame trans. Etc. planning on pulling engine and overhauling etc. its just a year older than me so she has potential, what y’all think?

[bmorgil]

Hossfly, That little engine will run on anything. That being said, propane would be considered an "Overkill" fuel. If you have no problem handling it and are satisfied with the distance you can get on a tank full, why change. As a fuel it is kind to the motor. It takes a bit more of it to make the same power so you will burn more, less fuel mileage.

The little L134 has very low compression much less than 7 to one. It needs very little octane, less than 80. The ideal compression ratio is in the 12.5- to 12.7- to-1 range for propane. If you wanted to get the best power with propane, you would boost the compression. You don't need to however. The propane isn't costing you any power, there is just more than stock available with a compression boost (which I would not do to a L134). Propane is high octane with a pump octane rating of 104. Propane typically works best with compression ratios of around 10.5 to 11 to 1. It is a "dry" fuel so it provides no valve lubrication. If the seats are not hardened it will wear them faster. It is a little easier on the rings however as there is no fuel wash. Very beneficial on cold starts and engine wear. Also, on extended storage, nothing beats natural or LP gas.

[Hossfly]

Bmorgil, yes I think I’ll leave it with propane for now.

Changed the oil, filter cartridge, wiring, is a challenge with all types of inline fuses all over, no brakes at all. That’s next on list is to find master cyl. Think it’s below floor board, there is a removable plate, will investigate that.

Engine cranks good, runs good, radiator no leaks so far. All gears seem to work. Fun project

My goal is to get everything working then decide what’s next. Love working on these old jeeps.

[bmorgil]

Hossfly, a very achievable goal. These little things lend themselves well to restoration. If you don't already have one, the Universal Jeep Service Manual is a must have. I couldn't imagine a restore without it.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/vehicle/46-49-cj-2a/literature/mechanics-manuals/mechanics-service-manual-fits-46-65-cj-2a-3a-3b-5

[gmwillys]

Welcome Hossfly!

I agree with leaving the Propane just for the simple fact you can run cheap, then the added benefit that the engine will be a whole lot cleaner running. As Bmorgil stated, you may see valve and seat wear, but I believe that the benefits will out weigh the costs.

[okiemark]

And you can fill at the house non tax.

[bmorgil]

You never really know on the seats until you tear it down. It is quite possible they are already hardened. There is some indication that even in early engines destine for industrial or, hard use, the seats were hardened. The L34's are Continental based engines. Some Continental components interchange with the 134. The Continentals were all Industrial type engines used in equipment. Some machinist say they tear down these old motors Continental and Willys, and they find the seats are hardened. I don't think any of the old motors had stainless valves however.

In any event, I don't think you will see any issues until you get a good 50,000 or so hard miles on it with propane. Then you may see some compression loss. This is not a high combustion temperature, high RPM engine. Valve spring pressure is minimal. The exhaust valve sees the most wear and it is somewhat isolated from flame in the Flathead. I don't think you will ever need to worry.

[Hossfly]

I finally got the master cylinder out from the frame rail. Someone in the past installed a plastic reservoir lid and it was so tight, it wouldn’t budge even with a 3/4’ break over and 1-1/8’ 6 point socket. Soaked for 48 hrs. In Ed’s Red. Had to almost melt with torch while trying with said wrench and Channel lock pliers, finally got it to move. NAPA has repair kit to rebuild, so that’s next. Love these old girls.

[bmorgil]

You may just want to consider a complete rebuilt master cylinder. Usually those old master cylinders are are so bad inside they will never seal up for you.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/vehicle/46-49-cj-2a/brakes/master-cylinders

[LarrBeard]

You may just want to consider a complete rebuilt master cylinder. Usually those old master cylinders are are so bad inside they will never seal up for you.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/vehicle/46-49-cj-2a/brakes/master-cylinders

I'd look it over very closely before you decide to rebuild. DOT-3 brake fluid goes out and tries to find water to absorb into the system and then lets it sit at low places and corrode things. (It is very "hygroscopic"). The master cylinder is usually the low place in the system.

If there is any corrosion in the bore, you won't be able to get a good pedal.

[Hossfly]

I'd look it over very closely before you decide to rebuild. DOT-3 brake fluid goes out and tries to find water to absorb into the system and then lets it sit at low places and corrode things. (It is very "hygroscopic"). The master cylinder is usually the low place in the system.

If there is any corrosion in the bore, you won't be able to get a good pedal.

Would Dot (4) or (5) be better option with silicone or would the price be a concern?

[LarrBeard]

DOT-4 is a glycol based fluid like DOT-3 but higher temp and a little less hygroscopic. DOT-5 is a silicone, but not compatible with anything else.

If you are cleaning out the system, DOT-5.1 is a really good choice for Jeeps that sit a lot. It is compatible with DOT-3, won't absorb water and is rated for temps far above what you will see in a Heep. It is precious $$$, but you are only going to do it once in a long while.

[Hossfly]

Rebuilt master cylinder, tried to bleed lines, no go. Rebuilt all 4 wheel cylinders, Found all flexible hoses completely plugged. Ordered new set of hoses, and replaced all 4, not an easy job. Bled from furtherest to near. Now have brakes. Reminded me of why I don’t work on anyone’s else’s brakes but my own.

Engine works fine, no leaks so far used Dot 3 fluid. No water leaks anywhere.

Now working on cluster of wires, got lights working high low beam and running lights all ok. Horn next, fun bringing back to life after so many years. Speedometer only shows 11,000 miles and it works also. I think that is accurate because this Jeep will only do 45MPH, which is fine with me, I hardly get of the farm anyway.

[gmwillys]

The rubber brake hoses have brought even the most experienced mechanics to tears trying to figure out why they can't get the brakes to bleed. Great job on concurring the beast!

[LarrBeard]

The rubber brake hoses have brought even the most experienced mechanics to tears !

The only thing worse is that little flex hose from the steel fuel line to the fuel pump. It gets soft and rotten inside. Then you start the vehicle, the fuel in the pump primes the float bowl on the carburetor and off you go. AS the pump takes suction, the hose collapses internally and the engine dies of fuel starvation.

Things sit a while, then the cycle repeats. You get about a half-mile down the road on each cycle. I learned that in 1966.

[5JeepsAz]

There should be a thread on here called brakes. And it should remain empty with no comments allowed as a courtesy to those of us who have had a long and awful terrible relationship with our brakes.

[bmorgil]

Aw come on... it's not over yet is it? All relationships involve sacrifice, commitment and submission. You haven't lived till you get to compare your 2000 era Anti-Lock brakes in a panic stop, against your 1940 designed "brakes". Quite a test, no comparison.

[Hossfly]

Found out buying the other jeeps for parts working very well. Paid $400 for the both of them, got extras 1 set rear end diff. And front end also. I think the guy was just tired of mowing around it. Anyway i had a problem with the (Y) connector at front of the master cylinder and found one on the newer ‘53 that fit as mine was striped on one side. Got 6 lock out hubs in the deal, mine has none and am wondering if I should install a set on the ‘48 I’m getting going? It probably wont leave the farm tho. But would be nice to be able to unlock and tow if needed.

[Hossfly]

Ok I’ve changed gear oil in both front and rear differentials, now for transmission and transfer case. This is 3 speed cj2a, when i drain the transfer case only got about 1 pint out. Does the tranny and transfer share the same fluid or are they separate because I’m having a hard time finding a drain plug on the transmission. Found a fill plug for both but the only drain plug I’m finding is straight thru skid plate hole And is a 3/8 square hole plug??? Book shows a drain on side of transmission??? Will need to reinvestigate this. I know about no EP in tranny fluid.

[okiemark]

Yes, I'm sure there are two places you have to drain. If It's like the one I'm working on oil can go from one to the other. I was looking back and trying to find where one of the experts here was explaining how all that works, but haven't been able to find it.

[Hossfly]

Found the drain on transmission after looking up in book, just hidden under years of caked on dirt and grime. Skid plate had partially hidden it also.

Pulled it and only a pint or so there also. Now off to parts store to get some Red Line. MT-90

[Hossfly]

Now I’m missing something but the manual says transmission and transfer case should hold 3-1/2 pints. Is that 3-1/2 pints each or total? I put 1 quart in each and none runs out fill hole, cant even feel any with little finger as dip stick. If it’s 3-1/2 pints each then I’m still short.

If 3-1/2 pints that’s 1.75 quarts to go in each box. Need advice.

[okiemark]

My manual says 6 1/2 pints. That is total for transmission and transfer case. That is for a CJ-5 but I think that is same as what you have. There is a passage that lets oil flow from one to the other. I believe you add oil to the opening that is highest and stop when oil reaches the lower opening.

[bmorgil]

You need to fill them both to the bottom of the fill holes.

The thing to keep in mind is the 18 transfer case has a "balancing" lube system. The transmission gear case has an internal lube hole shared with the transfer case. The level in the transfer case is lower than the level in the transmission. As the transfer case gears rotate, they lift the lube up to the shared lube passage in the transmission. This sort of refills the transmission case. When the transfer case gears stop rotating, the lube drains back from the transmission to the transfer case. So if you drive it and it losses lube from the transfer case, the trans will keep filling it. The transmission will steal a lot of lube from the transfer case if it (the transmission) is leaking. It is a good idea to keep an eye on both levels.

[Hossfly]

My manual says 6 1/2 pints. That is total for transmission and transfer case. That is for a CJ-5 but I think that is same as what you have. There is a passage that lets oil flow from one to the other. I believe you add oil to the opening that is highest and stop when oil reaches the lower opening.

Gotcha, i will get more oil today, and fill it up. That’s the way we always filled on the farm. Usually had a 5 gallon bucket and just fill till it runs out of the fill hole. Found my manual oil pump, that was a help. Thanks okiemark for your info.

[Hossfly]

You need to fill them both to the bottom of the fill holes.

The thing to keep in mind is the 18 transfer case has a "balancing" lube system. The transmission gear case has an internal lube hole shared with the transfer case. The level in the transfer case is lower than the level in the transmission. As the transfer case gears rotate, they lift the lube up to the shared lube passage in the transmission. This sort of refills the transmission case. When the transfer case gears stop rotating, the lube drains back from the transmission to the transfer case. So if you drive it and it losses lube from the transfer case, the trans will keep filling it. The transmission will steal a lot of lube from the transfer case if it (the transmission) is leaking. It is a good idea to keep an eye on both levels.

Thanks for that explanation, read about the equalizer holes but they didn’t explain it that way. Will get more oil today and fill it up.

[LarrBeard]

Will get more oil today and fill it up.

If you only got a pint or so from each side, it was really low. Don't be surprised if it throws oil out of seals once you get it filled to the correct (tip of the pinky) level.By the way, tip of pinky is an good engineering measurement!