Rebuilt carb and now it stopped getting a spark

[Bradhoffmeister]

I am beyond livid at this point. The carb was bogging down when accelerator was depressed, I had it cleaned. . I installed the carb and adjusted according to manual. Then it stopped running . Fuel good and pressure , then checked spark no spark. Check ignition coil . It failed and was really hot . My question is today is the coil has two wires one from Key pos, then neg to the dist. The foot switch went bad as well , I installed new one but found a red wire attached to one side of the foot switch ? Can someone advise what is going on here. I still cannot upload photos or I would . I tasted victory for a moment as I drove it down the street. I had a photo of my father in my sons hand. I had to spit the sweet taste as it turned bitter. I have a full rebuild kit arriving Monday. Lastly should the starter button be hot ? I reached in and touched the button to start the motor and it too was hot? I feel that Mickey mouse is still running around and I have some electric issues going on. Since posting I replaced the ignition coil and or green bean fired up. Temp good, but running rich. I leaned it out , all was well. Then died. I hope this all makes sense. I am close to exhausted at this point.

I thank My grandfather WW2-Korean War Vet, My father Vietnam 2 tours and all my brother and sisters I stood beside in the US Army. Army all the way. Thank you for your service. I promised to at least drive and I did. The distance was apparently up for conversation . God Bless our Vets.

[bmorgil]

First of course to all of you Veterans, God bless you all! We would not be here if not for your sacrifice.

Now you are on to something. The coil should not get hot. The starter switch will get as warm as the motor it is bolted to no more. The wire from the starter switch should be large and hooked to the battery directly. There should only be one wire there a big one, unless someone was looking for power for something. There should be a wire from the ignition switch to the positive terminal on the coil. No more wires on the positive terminal of the coil. Other wires don't belong there. If the coils says no ballast resistor required that's it. If the coil requires a ballast resistor the wire goes from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor to the positive of the coil. The negative goes to the points. If the points are closed and there is power to the coil positive it will get the coil hot and burn up the points. If the coil got hot and the motor was not running, the points and the coil are now suspect.

Don't get to livid, these things are the basic principle of operation. Sometimes we are so use to the modern way of things we have to look back on these old babies. This is very basic, we will figure it out.

Now the pictures, is this process not working for you? Reply to the post link about your trouble. https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys.com/showthread.php?2451-How-to-post-a-picture-in-a-thread

[Bradhoffmeister]

I installed a new ignition coil and it fired up. I let it warm up and it seemed to be running good. A little rich, I adjusted the mixture screw then drove it down the street a few times. It seemed to be ok. I then had my son and nephew hope in for a trip to the gas station. I made it about a 3/4 of a mile and it loaded up and then died. Sounded like it was not getting fuel? It would run for a few mins then die. the heat flap seems to be working. Newer fuel pump and filter. Carb was cleaned. I have a master rebuild kit arriving tomorrow. Perhaps something was not set correctly inside the carb. I wished I could find a reliable mechanic in NKY-South of Cincinnati that could work on the jeep. I am out of ideas after I rebuild this carb. Every single part is new on jeep,

[LarrBeard]

[QUOTE=Bradhoffmeister;12550]. A little rich, /QUOTE]

One of the things folks have forgotten with modern cars is that if you let a vehicle with a point ignition system sit with the points closed and the ignition on, you can destroy both the points and the coil.

Just for information, the mixture screw only adjusts the idle mixture. Running mixture is set by how far a metering rod pulls out of the main jet. The metering rod is controlled by the throttle, but the accelerator pump in the carburetor delivers the burst of fuel you need when you push down on the pedal enough to open the throttle plate.

Until you get a good rebuild on the carburetor, it is at the top of the list for the run and stop problem.

[bmorgil]

It does sound like you are getting, or have debris in the float bowl. If that is the original tank, I would be sure to put a filter between the pump and the carburetor on the pressure side of the pump. I agree with LarrBeard, a carb rebuild is a good start. If the coil got hot enough to fail, I would replace the points just to be safe. Set the mixture jet for the highest manifold vacuum at idle or, to the highest RPM at idle.