Newbie with a MB

[lewis505]

Lads-

I’ll be the first to admit that my maintenance skills/experience are somewhat limited, but trying to learn as I go; the engine on my 1944-Willys MB was running AOK - god rpms, smooth running engine - until last Saturday, when I felt a sligh sputter, which progressively got worse until I couldn’t get it started.

Took it into the Auto Skills Center here on Fort Benning & they recommended that I replace the battery & spark plugs - which I did - got it started again & it was running, but pretty rough - had it running again this morning for about a minute & engine conked out again

Here’s the work we’ve done on the Jeep since we received it last May

Replaced all 4 leaf springs & shocks
Pumped old fuel from fuel tank & only use non-ethanol fuel
Replaced carburetor w/ new Solex Carburetor
Replaced gas tank cap gasket
Replaced spark plugs and battery [6 Volt]

Any & all suggestions/help is welcome

Thanks

Chris

[bmorgil]

Chris, I would take a look at replacing the points and condenser as well as the cap. Recheck the timing and see how it runs. I do think you would have been better off with any Carter Carburetor (rebuilt or new) over the Solex. A new Solex should work however.

Do you have some form of filter between the carburetor and the fuel pump? With no filter, if there is crap in the fuel tank it will end the mission! Crap will pass through the large 1/4 inch passages in the fuel pump. It wont make through the Solex, or any carb for that matter. If you suspect crap in the fuel, a thorough carb cleaning will be in order.

[lewis505]

I was thinking the same for the points, condenser & cap

There is an inline fuel filter between the fuel tank & the gas pump - should I look at an additional one between the carburetor & fuel pump?

Thanks for the intel!

Chris

[bmorgil]

Chris, though some do get away with the filter between the pump and the tank, it belongs between the pump and the carb. The suction side of the pump is not very forgiving of even the slightest of restriction. The pump in these isn't very strong. Fuel pressure is low to begin with. A suction pump has a lot more ability to pull through. Fuel pumps are not very good suction pumps.

Put a filter between the pump and the carb. I would not run a filter between the tank and the pump unless you are sure it has VERY little restriction. I would say it is good you have a filter. It should have kept crap out of the carb.

[gmwillys]

Lewis505,

Although I run my filter pre pump, I do agree with Bmorgil on his fine points of putting the filter post pump. As a counter point I run a lined fuel tank, and am careful to put in clean fuel, but that doesn't mean that a bug or wasp can't appear in the fuel supply. I've seen it happen too many times to count. In my mind, I would rather protect the fuel pump from debris then feed it junk.

With that being said, the right and proper factory fuel filter is mounted to the passenger side firewall.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/diagram/mb-diagrams/fuel-and-exhaust-diagrams-mb-gpw/fuel-filter-mb/fuel-filter

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/willys-mb-fuel-filter-bolts_topic44347.html

[bmorgil]

gm that KW filter is a nice looking piece! It has me thinking.... Expensive little bugger however.

[gmwillys]

Yeah, $195. Would lighten your wallet, but then the element can be changed.... At $25. It isn't cheap either, but if you are going for period correct....

[lewis505]

Thanks for all the intel lads - heading to the Auto Skills Center tomm & see what we can do - will keep you posted

[sredm]

Would this be the correct filter for an MC / 1952 M38?

[lewis505]

So, replaced the points & condenser cap, she turns over, but still won’t start; can see clear fuel inside the fuel pump globe & screen is clean; mechanics said that since it’s a new battery, the Jeep is stored in an outside vehicle trailer & it’s been in the low 30s the past few nights, a 6V battery trickler might not be a bad idea

[bmorgil]

Chris take out a spark plug and ground it to the block. Crank it over and check for a good spark on the plug. If you have good spark, give it a little shot of ether and see if it will fire. If it fires and runs for a second start looking for a fuel issue. If it still won't fire and there is spark, the compression, the ignition timing and valve timing needs to be verified. If you have the service manual it will walk you through the tests to verify these things.

Since it was running fine and started to sputter and now won't run, it sure does have an ignition "sound" to the problem. Verify that you have good spark at the plug.

If you look down the carburetor with the engine off and open the throttle do you see fuel squirt into the engine?

If it has good spark, good fuel, correct ignition timing, correct valve timing and compression it has to run.

Keep trying Chris, I have lots of guesses!

[5JeepsAz]

Possibly the worst thing in the world is the question "is that a fuel problem or an electrical problem?" Keep plugging and good luck

[lewis505]

Thanks lads - will definitely try the spark plug test tomm

[lewis505]

Replaced the plugs & ensured the right # wires were connected from the distributor cap to plugs; engine turns over but still won’t catch - sprayed some carburetor cleaner into the carburetor & got it to turn over after two tries - engine sounds like before, sputtering & having trouble getting higher RPMs - sounds like a radial engine from a B-17 ��
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1suio4BhNDMi1pOZ1r3VOE5DOGZz8KVfj

[bmorgil]

Wow it's got spark, skip that test and move to Timing and fuel. Does it run with some choke? Make sure it is timed correctly. If it is see if it will run with some choke. Are you sure about the firing order? Do not trust that the #1 at the distributor is where you think it is. Bring the engine up to number 1 firing (compression stroke). Look at the rotor in the distributor. Wherever it is pointed is now number 1. Just be sure it is where you think it is and someone hasn't changed it. This happens often and there is nothing wrong with moving number 1. Often it is done to avoid screwing around with a fussy distributor installation. You just need to be sure at this point. Find number 1 and follow the wires to be sure it fires 1, 3, 4, 2.

[lewis505]

I'm going to take it back to the Auto Skills center tomm & see if I can get some help w/ the timing, etc.

Looking at my earlier post, just wanted to be clear that the Jeep does not start unless I use carb cleaner sprayed into the carburetor; "keeping fingers crossed" that we can get this puzzle solved soon & really appreciate your help!

Chris

[gmwillys]

Your Carburetor is either not set right on the float or trash in the main jet. Any which way, the carb is your culprit from my point of view. Carb cleaner to start, choke pulled out just enough to maintain running, full throttle bog, sounds like a radial B-17, yep, I'm with the carb issue.

[lewis505]

Latest update - verified that the spark plugs had correct gap, checked points & timing & looks like the culprit is a failing ignition coil - tested each one of the spark plugs with an inline spark plug tester & got a very, very faint light - have ordered a new 6-volt ignition coil & should have it early next week - will keep you posted & again thanks for all the intel!

Chris

[Patriot]

Make sure you have enough gap in the points.

[bmorgil]

Lewis, I hope you got it. If the points and coil don't cure it, I am with gmwillys, it sure does sound like a fuel problem.

[lewis505]

latest update - was at the Auto Skills Center on Saturday here at Fort Benning for about 1/2 the day [had to leave to watch Army "schwak" Navy 15-0 in the Army/Navy Game!] Got some great help from two retired Army MSGs that were mechanics & think we've isloated back to fuel being the problem; fuel pump was clogged w/ garbage from fuel tank; cleaned the fuel pump & it also is on its last legs [ordered new one from KW]; disconnected the fuel line from the fuel tank & blew air through it & all this brown cruddy looking junk came out - we suspect corrosion in the fuel tank as well - over the holidays will disconnect & clean out the fuel tank throughly & with a new fuel pump see if this fixes it - more to follow

Chris

[LarrBeard]

[had to leave to watch Army "schwak" Navy 15-0 in the Army/Navy Game!] fuel pump was clogged w/ garbage from fuel tank; cleaned the fuel pump & it also is on its last legs [ordered new one from KW]; disconnected the fuel line from the fuel tank & blew air through it & all this brown cruddy looking junk came out - we suspect corrosion in the fuel tank as well - over the holidays will disconnect & clean out the fuel tank throughly & with a new fuel pump see if this fixes it - more to follow

Chris

Well, Army may have beat Navy this time, but fate stepped in and when you gloated, the navy "Goat" took revenge and put crud in your fuel line.

You may well have had a couple of issues; a defective coil as well as fuel problems. Once we get Old Jeeps running for a while, things show up. Crud breaks loose from the fuel lines and tank, electrical stuff fails, brake cylinders freeze up and old seals start to leak. It's acting a lot like an old Jeep!

Cleaning out a tank can be fun. One way we have found is to put pea gravel in it and just rattle it around. The gravel breaks loose most of the rust and scale.

GMWillys recommends a tank sealer to coat the inside of the tank once you get the crud loose. I don't remember his particular product, but I'm sure he will speak up here.

I'd also recommend an in-line fuel filter if you don't have one - between the pump and carburetor. There is probably going to be residual stuff in the fuel lines that will go through the pump, but not the carburetor passages.

and, there is always next year.

Go Navy, Beat Army

LarrBeard, ETCS USNR-Retired Sends

[bmorgil]

gmwillys likes to use RED-KOTE http://damonq.com/red-kote.html and I do to. I used it on my new tank to keep it from rusting. Good Stuff.

Larry's point cant be overstated on a good filter between the pump and the carb. I think that is mandatory or the carb will get crap in it eventually. Here is a good write up from a racing fuel systems manufacturer. https://aeromotiveinc.com/fuel-filtration/ The theory applies on all pumps.

It can be impossible to keep an old tank from the occasional flaking and rusting apart internally. Some will put a filter between the tank and the pump when this situation becomes to severe. The pump can take a lot of garbage but things can get to bad. A filter between the pump and tank will cause a lot of problems if you don't use a high flowing low restriction filter. These little jeeps need such a small amount of fuel, I think gm will tell you, done right with the right filter, and you might get away with a pre-fillter. I think you will find a good thorough cleaning and some RED-KOTE, and you will be OK with just a good filter between the pump and Carb.

[gmwillys]

To clean your tank before coating it with Red-Kote, I use aquarium gravel to swish around in the tank to loosen up all the rust flakes. The gravel is clean and dust free, so there is not any more contaminates added to the tank.

[LarrBeard]

To clean your tank before coating it with Red-Kote, I use aquarium gravel to swish around in the tank to loosen up all the rust flakes. The gravel is clean and dust free, so there is not any more contaminates added to the tank.


Dang guys .. this sounds like we've got the story straight after all these years!

[gmwillys]

All problems can be solved with a few good folks putting their heads together.

[bmorgil]

Or we can all Bitc$ in unison and feel better together!

[okiemark]

Make sure the tank is worth fixing. I started to clean mine out and cleaning out the rust started some leaks. The more leaks I fixed the more developed. Finally bought a new tank and that took care of the leaks and the rust in the tank.

[bmorgil]

I would consider a new one. They have a tendency to keep deteriorating.

[gmwillys]

I had a gas tank off of an M38A1 that I took to one of my racing buddies to hot tank. The darn think looked like Swiss cheese on the bottom when it came out. The project was on a shoe string budget, but since I was throwing in free labor, I went ahead and re-skinned the bottom of the tank with sheet metal. It was a long, tedious process, which would have been much easier if I had a TIG welder at my disposal. Pin holes and porosity was the biggest hurdles. After I was able to get it close to perfect, I found another A1 with a better tank for a cheaper price then the new tank.

[okiemark]

On mine there were a few places on the bottom that were rusted from the outside that I used epoxy on and I cleaned it up and did that. I put some diesel in it and started propping it up to test different parts of the tank and as I got it more cleaned out on the inside, leaks started showing up that were rusted from the inside out. That put an end to it.

[lewis505]

Lads thanks so much for everyone’s advice; were are going forward with cleaning out the fuel tank w/ the recommended techniques & “line” the inside of the tank; also have a source of another fuel tank that has been sitting in a warehouse for about ten years & will work with that one as well

Appreciate everyone on the forum - even the “Navy Guy!” LOL - will keep you all posted

Happy New Year!

Chris

[gmwillys]

Thank you for the update. We look forward to being a part of your progress.

Hopefully 2021 will be a better year, and we can all get back to normal. I know I would like to make the trip over to Fort Benning to see your war horse in action.

[mrgrtt123]

Make sure to keep us posted with the progress of this build, I hope that everything will go well on your end.

[lewis505]

So - the next phase continues....

Ordered a complete new distributor and fuel tank & will be mounting them this weekend; the fellas at the Fort Benning MWR Auto Skills center have tested everything else - compression is good in all cylinders, cleaned & rebuilt the fuel pump and carburetor; flushed out the fuel lines & installed a new fuel filter between the gas tank & fuel pump - hopefully this does the trcik & will keep you posted!

Chris

[lewis505]

Here’s the Jeep with the fuel tank removed - needs a smidge of epoxy work for two small holes in the hull

7616

[LarrBeard]

Wow, not bad at all.

[mrgrtt123]

As what they have said it's not that bad. Make sure you keep us posted with the progress of this build.

[lewis505]

Well we've finally got success! Replaced the fuel tank & complete distributor assembly, and now runs no problem! Will use only non-ethanol fuel for it as well. Had a slight issue not wanting to idle unless it was on full-choke, but that seems to of stopped - any ideas on what may cause that?

Thanks again everyone!

[bmorgil]

Lewis, the idle circuit is probably the culprit. I have written a few times about that circuit. Even in a brand new old stock rebuild kit that circuit gets blocked. The circuit has a tube jet with a long TINY orifice. It will plug with corrosion from just sitting in its package. I pass a wire through every one of them new or used before installing them. I would say a microscopic piece of crud got in there and blocked it for a while. The comment wont "wont idle without the choke" is the main symptom. The fact it "went away" makes it sound pretty sure. If it happens again make sure you have a filter between the fuel pump and the carb. These Carters are sticklers for clean fuel in the idle circuit.

[lewis505]

Thanks for the intel @bmorgil!

[lewis505]

So, as I'm been seeing for the past year, when you have a success with your Willys, something else pops up......

Brought the jeep to the National Infantry Museum last Saturday to show her off & educate some of our new Infantry Trainees on the Jeep - took her for a ride afterwards [about 2 miiles] & as i was pulling up to load her back into the trailer, the brakes locked up & could not depress the brake pedal at all

Did get it into the trailer & did some quick troubleshooting; the front driver's side wheel rim was warm where the other three wheels were not; thinking this might be the brake lines & probably a good idea to bleed the brake lines / check the master cylinder?

As always, appreciate everyone's input on this

Thanks!

7763

*parked in fron of the National Infantry Museum last Saturday

[gmwillys]

Lewis 505,

Start with the soft line going from the axle to the frame. Rubber lines are notorious for collapsing internally, and not allowing the line pressure to return to the reservoir, causing the brake to be applied without the pedal being pushed. With the hard pedal I would lean that direction. The force required to apply the brakes overcomes the collapse of the line, but the return to the master does not have any pressure to force its way back.

[lewis505]

Thanks to @gmwillys for the intel above; we have the Jeep at the Auto Skills center on-post & stopped by today to check on progress; one of the mechanics stated that there's a special tool used to adjust the bolt highlighted on the attached picture - any ideas?

Thanks! 8118

[gmwillys]

Lewis 505,

No real special tools required outside of an offset set of boxed end wrenches. The top jam nuts are 9/16", while the bottom jam nuts are 3/4". The center bolt needs an open end wrench to turn/hold the adjuster (eccentric). As seen in the photos, mine are worn down so I ended up using a pair of vise grips to hold or turn the eccentric bolt. Then a feeler gage can be used to set the shoes to the drum by running the gage through the front of the drum as shown in the first picture. I set them at .010" as a base number depending on the condition of the brake shoes. It is not the most user friendly set up, and it will take some time to get right being that on this set up you have four adjustments per wheel, (two upper and two lower). When you are confident that all is adjusted correctly, apply a little Loctite to the jam nuts and tighten the crap out of them to ensure that the adjustment doesn't move when stopping hard.

[bmorgil]

gm has you going in the right path. I have a tool drawn up to make, I just haven't gotten around to the machine shop yet. Here is a photo of what I use. The lower jam nuts up front are the worst. Depending on the wrenches you have it can be impossible. On those I took a 3/4" China Freight drop box wrench, and ground the sides down slim. It works much better on those front brakes. Also the newer aftermarket drums may not have the slots gm is speaking of. In that case you have to use the old adjust it till it drags and back it off a touch. If you have to pay extra for the drums with the slot, I would do it. gm is aware I might be banging my head with some aftermarket drums right now!

A couple of links for tools.

http://chryslerjeepfordgpw.com/en/mac_tools_s15_ford_gpw_jeep_willys_mb_bendix_brake _wrench_1_4_x_3_16_usa_made.html

https://www.willysjeepparts.com/Brake_Service_Tools.htm

[LarrBeard]

I was reviewing the thread and I caught a note from back in February:

"... installed a new fuel filter between the gas tank & fuel pump - hopefully this does the trick & will keep you posted!"

The best place for a filter is between the fuel pump and the carburetor. My first thought was the same as yours, keep the crud out of the pump as well as the carburetor, but the wiser ones here taught me that the diaphragm pumps do a better job of pushing fuel out to the carburetor than they do sucking it down that line from the tank.

The MB isn't as much an issue as the trucks and wagons, but if you get just a little crud in the filter, the pump may have problems generating enough suction to draw fuel to the system.

If it's running well, no immediate problem - just a suggestion for something to look at later; once you get that brake unstuck!

[bmorgil]

Good catch Larry, yes if there is a restriction on the suction side, it will starve for fuel and it can be hard on the pump. A "no restriction" screen is usually right at the pickup in the tank.

[TJones]

gm has you going in the right path. I have a tool drawn up to make, I just haven't gotten around to the machine shop yet. Here is a photo of what I use. The lower jam nuts up front are the worst. Depending on the wrenches you have it can be impossible. On those I took a 3/4" China Freight drop box wrench, and ground the sides down slim. It works much better on those front brakes. Also the newer aftermarket drums may not have the slots gm is speaking of. In that case you have to use the old adjust it till it drags and back it off a touch. If you have to pay extra for the drums with the slot, I would do it. gm is aware I might be banging my head with some aftermarket drums right now!

A couple of links for tools.

http://chryslerjeepfordgpw.com/en/mac_tools_s15_ford_gpw_jeep_willys_mb_bendix_brake _wrench_1_4_x_3_16_usa_made.html

https://www.willysjeepparts.com/Brake_Service_Tools.htm

Am I missing something here??
My 11" brakes off a 46 Pickup do not have the bottom adjusters, maybe Larrbeard can jump in...
Do your brakes only have adjusters on the top Larry?
I had to out and look at mine just to make sure they didn't have both, you guys really threw me for a loop when you said a 3/4" wrench:confused::)

[bmorgil]

9" brakes vs 11" brakes are a huge difference. There are a few different brakes out there. We are speaking of the 9" Bendix style found on the early Military and CJ's. They are very touchy and difficult to adjust because they are so tight behind the knuckles up front on a Dana 25. They have a bottom adjuster and a top adjuster on both shoes. 4 adjustments per wheel.

[TJones]

That is the biggest reason I switched mine bc the original owner said it was really hard to get it stopped with the 9" brakes so I got on Miss Google and found out 11" backing plates and brakes (I'm thinking they were off a 46 pickup) would bolt right up and I am glad I did it!!!
That's why I was hoping Larrbeard would jump in, I am not sure if has 11" brakes or not.

[LarrBeard]

" My 11" brakes off a 46 Pickup do not have the bottom adjusters, maybe Larrbeard can jump in...
Do your brakes only have adjusters on the top Larry?""

Yes, I have 11-inch brakes. The '48 only has two eccentrics per backing plate.

"Big" Jeeps are different than the "little Jeeps. I believe - I don't have the books to back me up - that when the trucks, wagons and panel deliveries went to the 11-inch brakes, they only had adjusters at the top, two per wheel. The shoes pivot at the bottom, so as you turn the eccentric adjusters, you are only swinging the tops of the shoes - not the entire lining.

[TJones]

" My 11" brakes off a 46 Pickup do not have the bottom adjusters, maybe Larrbeard can jump in...
Do your brakes only have adjusters on the top Larry?""

Yes, I have 11-inch brakes. The '48 only has two eccentrics per backing plate.

"Big" Jeeps are different than the "little Jeeps. I believe - I don't have the books to back me up - that when the trucks, wagons and panel deliveries went to the 11-inch brakes, they only had adjusters at the top, two per wheel. The shoes pivot at the bottom, so as you turn the eccentric adjusters, you are only swinging the tops of the shoes - not the entire lining.


Thats exactly like my Larry....

[gmwillys]

The truck and wagon 11" brakes do only have one eccentric per shoe for a total of two per wheel end. They are much easier to adjust for sure. I found that a Snap On 3/4" offset Box End wrench slips into place, and works well in a pinch. Optimally, I'm with Bmorgil in modifying a cheapy wrench to do the job even better. The key is to leave yourself enough room to hold the eccentric bolt when you have achieved the proper gap. If there are not slots in the drum to stick a feeler gage through to check the gap, then the tried and true method that Bmorgil spoke of works just as well. Adjust the shoes out until you feel a drag from the shoe touching the drum, and back it off just enough for the drum to turn freely. Be sure to turn the drum in a complete circle to ensure that you do not have a drum that isn't perfectly round on the inside diameter.

[bmorgil]

I was thinking a Snap On might fit in there. I might just wring out my wallet for one. Is that a vintage Snap on gm?

[gmwillys]

I'll get you the part number for the wrench. I bought the set new in '92. Not vintage, but not new either. The offset is probably 3/4" or so.

[lewis505]

I'll get you the part number for the wrench. I bought the set new in '92. Not vintage, but not new either. The offset is probably 3/4" or so.

Thanks man!

[gmwillys]

Snap on combination box end 3/4" and 13/16"
Part number XB2426A

You are welcome Sir.

[lewis505]

Gents-

What do you all recommend for a good 6V replacement battery?

[bmorgil]

gm has a few good ones. He will jump in here.

[LarrBeard]

The good news is that it is pretty hard to go wrong picking out a battery.

The basic choice is a Group 1 lead-acid battery - the original equipment battery. A typical battery is this one:

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery/duralast-battery-1-6volt-group-size-1-575-cca/960195_0_0

Auto Zone, O'Reily's, Rural King, NAPA - there are vendors all over the place. I've had a Group 1 lead-acid battery in the '48 since its rebirth and unless I do something stupid like leave a light on, it has never unexpectedly run down or failed to crank the engine - even in really cold weather. These typically have a 1-year warranty, but you can find 3-year or so if you're willing to shell out the bucks.

But, if you want to go to the next level, an Aggregate Glass Mat (AGM) battery is the next step.

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery/optima-agm-red-top-battery-6v-800-cca/437833_0_0

It is a different form factor, so securing it in place is a bit of a challenge, but it gives more cranking amps, something that might be an advantage if you have either a new, tight engine or a worn one that needs to spin for a while to get it going. They're more expensive that the Group 1 batteries, but they typically are warrantied for 3-years.

As the old guy says; "You pays your money and you takes your choice".

Probably more important that battery choice is paying attention to the starting and charging system on a 6-volt Jeep. When you start out with only 6-volts, every tenth of a volt is previous.

Make sure terminals and connections are clean and tight. Don't scrimp on battery or starter cables; 12-volt #4 AWG parts store cables won't get the job done. KWAS uses #1 AWG for their cables and they are a minimum size.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/battery-to-ground-cable-16-x-1-gauge-fits-46-66-jeep-willys

If you can find them, braided welding cables make an even better solution, but you usually have to get a good auto electrical shop to crimp on the terminals.

We have seen a number of folks having starting issues where it turns out the actual starter switch on the push-in starters is the issue. They get old, dirty and pitted, so don’t overlook that switch. Starter bearings, bushings and brushes also slow down starters and increase current draw.

I know – more than you asked for, but we’re kind of like that insurance guy on TV; We’ve seen just about everything – but there is always something new coming.

[lewis505]

Lads-

Finally got a 12v system put in the MB; runs like a top & no issues with it so far

Here's the question I have for everyone: When I drive the Jeep for more than a mile or so, when I take it out of gear, it doesn't "coast" like it normally should - emergency brake is completely disengaged, my mechanics at the Auto Skills Center here on Benning checked the wheels a few months ago & didn't see anything wrong -

I was thinking maybe look at brakes first? Bleed brake lines & replace fluid? I read something about replacing the piston cups as well

Or maybe simply remove & repack the wheel bearings

Any advice as always is much appreciated!

[51 CJ3]

Couldn’t hurt to check wheel bearings. I caught all kinds of problems on mine when I was changing tires. I could feel and hear things weren’t right turning the wheels by hand.

[51 CJ3]

You could have something in the brakes not completely releasing. I went through that on my F150 a year or so ago. The parking brake would not fully disengage because of corrosion. I would get a mile or so down the road before I would feel signs something wasn’t right. Just far enough for the shoes and drum to heat up and get draggy. At it’s worst it almost felt like the rear end was hopping.

[bmorgil]

Lewis when you notice this condition, pull over and check a few things. Can you push it? If you cannot, see if any of the brakes are getting hot. If one or more brakes are hot it could be a few things. Shift the transfer case to neutral and see if you can push it. If it pushes with the transfer case in neutral, there could be an internal issue.

If you feel it isn't coasting and you pull it over, but can easily push it, Its probably going to take you getting used to the "drag" a vintage four wheel drive vehicle has when rolling at speed. Enjoy it!

[gmwillys]

Lewis,

You have an interesting issue going on. I would start out with Bmorgil's suggestions first, because they are a solid place to start.
1) Brakes dragging?
A) Rubber brake hoses at the wheel or at the rear end collapsing?
* Are the rubber hoses pliable feeling?
# If brake hoses are stiff or show age, then the inside of the hose has most likely pinching off the return flow of brake fluid back to the reservoir, and will need replacing.
B) Brakes heating up on one brake drum/hub more than the other after driving?
* Brake eccentric adjuster washer has slipped enough to where brake shoe is riding on the brake drum even when not applied?
# Check wheel temps with a cheap inferred temp gun to see which set of brakes are the cause.
2) Tough to push in neutral?
A) Take a quick look/tape measure the front end alignment.
* Slight toe in situation can cause rolling resistance, but may not be as noticeable at the steering wheel. (Not very probable)
B) Front or rear differential axle bearing failure?
* Check each axle bearing, (each wheel) for any signs of being tight or bearing failure?
# Grease the axle bearings and recheck. Replace as needed.
C) Transmission or Transfer case resistance?
* Check for excessive heat externally by temp gun after drive?
# If bearing(s) are dragging, replace as needed.

This is just a preliminary group of possibilities to check to see what may be causing your problem.

[lewis505]

Thanks for the info lads - spoke w/ mechanics at the Auto Skills Center & gonna try replacing the brake hoses first

Will keep you updated

[bmorgil]

This will be interesting Lewis. For sure keep us in the loop!