Upgrades and repairs, Thoughts?

[VTWilly]

So as I was planing out what upgrades, repairs, and changes that I will make to my 55 Wagon, I thought I would post some sort of plan here to get the input of some of the experts.
Since this vehicle is my every day driver, my current priorities are reliability and safety, followed closely by upkeep, and then just all the other stuff I want to do.
I want to keep as close to stock looks as possible (not looking for huge 35” mudders and massive diamond plated bumpers ect)
Here is my list, what am I missing or overlooking here?

Safety:
Disk Brakes (at least the front), probably new master cylinder
Modern 3 point seat belts
New gas tank (current one has JB weld on the bottom and still leaks if overfilled a little)

Reliability:
Tune Up (Spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor ect)
Rewire electric system (I got a few power gremlins)
4x4 system tune up (4x4 hasn't been used in at least 5 years)
Carb tune up

Other Stuff:
Defroster needs to be tweaked, to work better (it's marginal now)
New rims maybe 16s (needed for Disk Brakes anyway)
31” tires (currently 29”)
Other than cracks in the springs, how can you tell when you need new suspension? It certainly rides like a 60+ year old truck, but still.

[bmorgil]

Safety:
Disk Brakes (at least the front), probably new master cylinder
Must have new master cylinder. The old one isn't sufficient for the discs and, you will need a dual master for safety as well as proper function.

Modern 3 point seat belts
Great idea!

Reliability:
Tune Up (Spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor ect)
You may want to consider an electronic conversion for the points. Points are a lot of fun but they require periodic maintenance. The Petronix system is very good. It guarantees a quick start.


Other than cracks in the springs, how can you tell when you need new suspension? It certainly rides like a 60+ year old truck, but still.
Check for looseness in all the components and be sure the preload is set on the front king pin bearings.

I am sure the boys have a few more ideas.

And by all means good luck!

[LarrBeard]

"Other Stuff:
Defroster needs to be tweaked, to work better (it's marginal now)"

The defroster never will be a "modern" defroster, but you should be able to improve it.

And a double "thumbs up" on good brakes. "If the brakes don't stop it, something else will" isn't a good answer.

Other than cracks in the springs, how can you tell when you need new suspension?

Most of the bolts, bushings and Zerk fittings on the suspension are probably in bad shape. At least pull them and check them. Shocks of course.

[5JeepsAz]

Since this vehicle is my every day driver

Awesome! "Let's make it a true daily double, Alex." ...



perhaps consider comfort, reducing noise at speed & temperature moderation with removable lining, Check your glass and window seals, tunes of some variety?

For Safety maybe wipers or a handy-dandy spray bottle, effective headlights & brake lights.

Let's see them pictures!

[VTWilly]

You may want to consider an electronic conversion for the points. Points are a lot of fun but they require periodic maintenance. The Petronix system is very good. It guarantees a quick start.


Thanks for the reminder! I thought I heard the previous owner mention electronic ignition, sure enough, I just checked and I do have that... would have felt really silly if I had gotten a new set of points only to find they were not there. So do I just change cap and rotor with this setup?



The defroster never will be a "modern" defroster, but you should be able to improve it.



The current heater/defroster is after market. It is still an under the dash box with hoses to the defroster, but the person that installed it for the PO
(I think you call him Bubba) ran the only defrost hose so that it blows all the air directly into the closed cowl vent (or out the vent if it's open)



perhaps consider comfort, reducing noise at speed & temperature moderation with removable lining, Check your glass and window seals, tunes of some variety?

For Safety maybe wipers or a handy-dandy spray bottle, effective headlights & brake lights.

Let's see them pictures!

Noise reduction would be nice, my littlest wears shooting muffs when she rides with me, the Transmission whine (for lack of a better term) is quite loud, I sort of suspect that when it was last rebuilt that they used a more modern thinner transmission fluid, but I am not sure. It's on the list for a shop that knows what they are doing to check. But I am open to other sound dampening options.

There is an aftermarket radio for tunes, but it doesn't work right. It's low priority, but I do miss my classical music channel on the ride to work.

The wipers are electric conversion and do work, I also apply the RainX stuff that seem to work quite well.

Was thinking about doing some nice bright LED headlight/taillights but currently it all works so it was pretty low on the list.

Pictures? Well there are a few elsewhere on this page...... but I'll totally post them again! haha.

[bmorgil]

That is a nice looking tuck VT!

Yes the points are out of the game. The wires cap rotor and plugs will still need some attention every now and then. Depending on how much you drive it and the engine condition, they should last awhile.

LarrBeard will be a help on the heater defroster. He can install them with a dead goat next to him. Even the originals look aftermarket because they were add on. Take some close ups so he can see what you have.

The transmission should have a fairly "thin" lube in it. Something about the consistency of straight 40 weight motor oil.
https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys.com/showthread.php?2371-The-correct-lube-for-a-Jeep-synchronized-transmission

Larrbeard is also in the process of setting up high power LED lights on his 48' truck. I am sure he can guide you through converting to LED.

[gmwillys]

Some tips for installing three point seat belts are linked bellow;

https://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=12411&page=58

Scroll down towards the bottom of the page to see the seat belt install. The build is a truck, but they are essentially the same as the wagon. There would be some fabrication involved, but it would be worth it in the end.

[LarrBeard]

" Was thinking about doing some nice bright LED headlight/taillights but currently it all works so it was pretty low on the list."

You are already a 12-volt conversion, so improved lights would be fairly easy.

My wife was worried that the '48 was hard to see from the back, so I put an LED light in the tail light/stop light. It really does make a difference. I'd suggest those as a minimum upgrade - cheap and fast.

Modern halogen headlights are a great improvement over the original two-filament incandescent lights. Again, cheap and fast.

Seeing and being seen is almost as important as being able to stop.

The electric wipers are part of that "seeing" formula. Losing wipers in a downpour or when a semi roars by you isn't a great sensation.

[LarrBeard]

https://allmetalshaping.com/showthre...=12411&page=58

I just stand in awe over skills and craftsmanship like that. This restoration is from Australia where he will need to get an engineer to inspect his work before the vehicle can be titled and driven. Just think how Bubba and Junior would react to that here in the USA!

[VTWilly]

LarrBeard will be a help on the heater defroster. He can install them with a dead goat next to him. Even the originals look aftermarket because they were add on. Take some close ups so he can see what you have.

Do I have to provide the dead goat or does he bring his own?

As you can see in the photos, it is an aftermarket Napa heater, it works fine, but that hose goes up into what looks like an attempt at something to split/spread the airflow, but as the picture shows, the air only comes out directly above where the hose goes in, which is directly into the cowl vent. The rest of that is... I'm not sure.... Just for show I guess.
As a side note, the whole contraption came out when I was taking the pictures (it was all free floating and not even zip tied to anything) so I have left it out.

My main question is this, is there some part that gets put on the window side of the hose, or do I just run the ducting up near where it comes out of the dash by the windshield and let it blow out the little dash vent?



The transmission should have a fairly "thin" lube in it. Something about the consistency of straight 40 weight motor oil.
https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys.com/showthread.php?2371-The-correct-lube-for-a-Jeep-synchronized-transmission

My service manual says that a 80w or 90w (depending on the season) is the correct weight, wondering if that it outdated by today's more advanced oils?


Edited to add: The PO kept all his receipts... "Bubba" charged him $275 to "Modify and make defroster to work on drivers side" and for "Make Duct work"

[gmwillys]

It looks like there is a shop vac somewhere missing the hose and carpet attachment.

The original heater mounted to the firewall, as seen in the last photo. The hose came off the heater and branched off to two vents that are tucked up under the interior windshield trim. The trim has a relief made into it to direct air to the windshield. Yours may be different, but that's how the '63 was set up. Usually not much changed until the Wagoneer rolled out in '64.

[bmorgil]

Do I have to provide the dead goat or does he bring his own?

My service manual says that a 80w or 90w (depending on the season) is the correct weight, wondering if that it outdated by today's more advanced oils?

LarrBeard may be referenced in a movie about it. I think he was played by George Clooney. Something about staring at goats.

That is a GL4 SAE rating. GL4 is considerably thinner even though the weight number is the same. GL4 is rated differently then GL5 or traditional gear lube that you put in an axle. Here is a good conversation about "weight vs pour-ability".
https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys.com/showthread.php?2442-Closed-Knuckle-and-Steering-Box-Lubrication

[bmorgil]

Here is a better discussion on lubes. I thought I had posted this in the other section. I think I will update it.
https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys.com/showthread.php?2392-Gear-Oil&highlight=redline

[VTWilly]

Well, after sticking my head up under the dash, I do indeed have two parts that the hose hooks to in order to direct air up to the windshield. Of course whoever put the electric wiper motors in, put it up right where the hose should go and now I can't connect the hose there, I might have to make some creative adjustments. Worse case I'll just remove the vent section and let the hose blow air in the general direction, should be better than nothing and way better than what it was.