61 Willy’s pickup 4WD tie rod/ leaf springs

[Penny]

A little background on my one owner ( before me) pickup. My uncle had put a type of power steering on many years ago. But it was leaking and in bad shape so restored the steering back to original. So the original steering knuckle‘s are in place with new tie rod and new tie rod ends and new leaf springs. In reassembling the steering system with new parts, the new leaf springs has a clamp that is about 12 inches back from the front eyes of the springs. That clamp touches the tie rod when turning. Has anyone ever experienced this issue? The original springs has that clamp at about 10-1/2 inches from the eye.

[Penny]

61 Willy’s pickup 4WD tie rod/ leaf springs
A little background on my one owner ( before me) pickup. My uncle had put a type of power steering on many years ago. But it was leaking and in bad shape so restored the steering back to original. So the original steering knuckle‘s are in place with new tie rod and new tie rod ends and new leaf springs. In reassembling the steering system with new parts, the new leaf springs has a clamp that is about 12 inches back from the front eyes of the springs. That clamp touches the tie rod when turning. Has anyone ever experienced this issue? The original springs has that clamp at about 10-1/2 inches from the eye.

[bmorgil]

Penny, I am going to guess that strap is to keep the spring stack aligned and together. Take a picture of that clamp. It is possible you can move it or run without it. Lets take a look.

[Penny]

On my 61 Willys pick up truck- after installing the new crown automotive leaf springs and new tie rod to the original steering knuckles the tie rod tube is hitting the clamps on the new leafspring assemblies. The issue is that the new springs have clamps in a different position than the old ones. Has anyone ever seen this before? KWJ was kind enough to send another set of springs but it’s the same issue. Can we use the old original springs and what should we be aware of in doing that?

[bmorgil]

Those are rebound straps. They are there to keep the main leaf from being overworked if the springs are suddenly fully extended. The main leaf takes all the stress when the spring is rebounding without the straps. With the straps the springs stay together and don't separate on rebound. Do you have the springs loaded? I am not sure if you are in the process of restoring or what you have going there. If the motor isn't in or, there isn't the full weight on the springs, new springs will get very close. As they sag your clearance will increase. It looks like you are dealing with the big arch of new springs. They set high for a while.

You could remove the existing clamp and relocate it using an aftermarket clamp slightly forward or rearward to clear. Or run without it. If it is not going to be used in a rugged environment, I would run without it.

[Penny]

Sorry for the duplication whilst I figure out the whole forum thing! Here are the photos of the clamps at issue-I hope I can attach photos this time.

[bmorgil]

No problem I got you covered Penny, Your posts are all now here in this thread. Review all the prior responses to your posts.

As I said below, you have a few options. Primarily however your main issue is your spring stack. You have changed from a 7 spring stack to a 10 spring setup. That is quite a change to say the least! I would expect that those springs will fit considerably different. I would suspect the arc of those springs is very steep compared to the ones that came off. I would say the springs you purchased have a much higher weight rating. You may want to shop for the correct springs.