Engine Swap Preparations CJ5! Need advice!

[alove]

Hey guys,

So, after speaking with a friend, it occurred to me that I should get my new engine mounts welded in prior to priming and painting my frame (I am totally new to all of this). I have a '55 CJ5 that I am planning to drop a Chevy 4.3L V6 into. I have researched engine mounts, and Novak seems to be a quality option. I would welcome any opinions on that! I am curious if anyone on here has done this swap and what other modifications to the frame might need to be done to make that engine fit. Does the battery platform need to be moved or eliminated? How much variation is there in the mounts depending on the year the engine was made, if any? It appears that the mounts are adjustable, but you can't move something once you weld it in! I have the link to the mounts I am looking at below.

Any advice or discussion would be appreciated, and I apologize if these are stupid questions!

Thanks,
-Alex

https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/engine-mounts/mmx-wc1/

[LarrBeard]

"...I apologize if these are stupid questions!"

I admit to knowing zilch-point-nothing about engine swaps, (well, I did swap an F-134 into an L-134 about 50-years ago), but there are no stupid questions on this Forum.

Let us know how it goes and you can be the Chevy 4.3L "x-spurt" for us.

[bmorgil]

Check out TJones CJ, a nice V6 install. https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys.com/showthread.php?1772-New-to-the-Forum

Novak is a very good choice.

[TJones]

So, after speaking with a friend, it occurred to me that I should get my new engine mounts welded in prior to priming and painting my frame (I am totally new to all of this). I have a '55 CJ5 that I am planning to drop a Chevy 4.3L V6 into. I have researched engine mounts, and Novak seems to be a quality option. I would welcome any opinions on that! I am curious if anyone on here has done this swap and what other modifications to the frame might need to be done to make that engine fit. Does the battery platform need to be moved or eliminated? How much variation is there in the mounts depending on the year the engine was made, if any? It appears that the mounts are adjustable, but you can't move something once you weld it in! I have the link to the mounts I am looking at below.

Any advice or discussion would be appreciated, and I apologize if these are stupid questions!

Thanks,
-Alex

https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/engine-mounts/mmx-wc1/[/QUOTE]

Well sorry I cant help much alove with a "new total swap" I may have cheated a little on mine. My project already had a 225 Buick odd-fire V6 in it when I started, so my swap was to a 252 Buick even-fire V6 and everything was identical as far as motor mounts, bell housing and such so I can't be of much help as far as a total new swap. I have seen a lot of guys use the Chevy 4.3 V6 and it does work out pretty sweet and yes Novak is the go to place for conversions, so you are heading in the right direction as far as talking to the right people.
I do know that if you call them they will have someone on staff that knows exactly what you want to do and get you exactly what you need.
Mine had a mechanical clutch on it and I put swing pedals in mine so I called Novak and talked to a guy that set me up with the hydraulic slave cylinder that fit my bell housing which was a bear in itself.
The guy that did my original swap to the 225 V6 fabricated a Chevy V8 "Blow Proof" bell housing to fit the bolt pattern on the V6 so it took a little time to make sure I got what I needed.
Sorry that I wasn't a little more helpful but I am sure if you dig into it I may be a little more helpful in the future.
My whole theory during my project was " If there is a will there is a way" and if not there is a few guy's on here that will cheer you on!!!

[gmwillys]

A V6 conversion isn't too hard. There are a couple of key things to know. If you would like power steering, then this is the time to add one. A Saginaw steering gear can be mounted on the front frame horn. This would free up some room in the frame for the V6 to sit in. The block and heads fit, but the exhaust will drive you nuts trying to gain head space. The next recommendation would be to box the frame to where the motor mounts will mate to the frame. This will help to strengthen this section of the frame for the added weight. To get your motor mounts correct, it would be great to have a bare block or a mock plastic block, (which is darned expensive for a chunk of plastic with nut certs added to bolt parts on).

The photos below show the 350 sbc that was jammed in many years before I bought it in '88. The job done was the finest that barnyard engineering had to offer. It wasn't pretty, but functioned well. The Saginaw steering gear had a PTO u-joint, and a pillow block bearing holding the steering shaft that traveled through a hole gouged through the front cross member.