New Owner Just Aquired

[CaptB]

Hello, actually came across this 6 months ago, it's been sitting for several years. Told the owner if she ever wanted to sell it let me know.

Picked it up this past weekend pretty cheap, still looking it over but so far from a rust standpoint the floorboards are the only major issue. Frame looks straight and doesn't look like it has major issues. That all might be wishful thinking.

I'm thinking body off restoration and rebuild of orignal motor.

Not going the military look way (at this point) just beach Jeep look.

Thoughts?
Capt B
9350935193529353
9349

[Catlewis]

Nice! What year is it? Appears to have the same engine as mine (134 ci) 4 cylinder. The top looks newer.

[CaptB]

Based on what my online research shows it's a 1960 CJ-5. The engine should be an F4-134.

That's what I got from the data plate. Not sure if it's 100% correct, but that's what I'm calling it now. I have no title but working that with the state of Tennessee. I'm sure I'll eventually get one but they will have me jump through the hoops.

[bmorgil]

CaptB, a great start for a restore! Man it looks really complete. The top is a very nice thing to have. That CJ should restore like new.

[gmwillys]

Welcome CaptB,

That is a good looking CJ5 that you have. The body looks pretty good, sans the floor boards as you said. Not a huge deal at all. We look forward to seeing more on your project.

[LarrBeard]

CaptB:

Welcome to the group. I concur with the 1960 CJ-5 identification. 57548 identifies it as a CJ-5 and the 119396 puts it in the middle of the 1960 serial number block.

The engine is indeed the F-134 which was introduced to replace the flathead L-134 in the early 1950's.

I like the resident dirt-dobber nest on top of the engine

[CaptB]

We had luck that day, it was not occupied.

[CaptB]

Welcome CaptB,

That is a good looking CJ5 that you have. The body looks pretty good, sans the floor boards as you said. Not a huge deal at all. We look forward to seeing more on your project.

I do have a question on the fenders, they're both beaten up, should these be body worked or just replaced? From what I see now, the only other body type replacement will have to be the floorpan, it's possible to repair but getting a new one looks to be less than $1K.

[bmorgil]

The fender I can see doesn't look too bad. I would try to use the originals if you can. Nothing will fit like them on the original body. There are excellent reproduction parts out there also. gmwillys and others on this forum have done a fair share of floorboard replacement. Take a few pictures of the damage. I am sure they can let you know what might be the best way to go on your floor boards.

[CaptB]

I do have another question, does that data plate look factory installed? It's basically screwed into the firewall and I wasn't sure if that's correct from the factory.

TYIA.

[Catlewis]

Yes it looks identical to mine. Four Philips head screws.
9363

[LarrBeard]

I would stay with the original fenders. They are not that hard to rework - on the '48 we did a fair amount of splicing and piecing to add back the parts that had broken off. Getting a good fit on an after market might take as much work as fixing the old ones - and you know they will look right.

[LarrBeard]

That is the way they did it back then - none of these fancy "no tamper" fasteners to hold on VIN plates, just four screws.

Where in Tennessee are you? The '48 and I started out in Jackson, over on the West side of the state. Notice the '55 Tennessee plate on the front.

[CaptB]

That is the way they did it back then - none of these fancy "no tamper" fasteners to hold on VIN plates, just four screws.

Where in Tennessee are you? The '48 and I started out in Jackson, over on the West side of the state. Notice the '55 Tennessee plate on the front.

I am in Tipton County. Not far from Jackson. Where are you located? Anyone else from the Memphis area?

[gmwillys]

I would make every effort to use the front fenders you have. They won't be that difficult to bend back into shape, just some time and patience. The floor pans are pretty easy if you choose to remove the body from the frame. The photo enclosed is of a M38A1 that I did some body work on. The floors were pretty much gone to the point that you couldn't lift the body off the frame without it wanting to taco in half. A little time and effort, and anything can be fixed.

[CaptB]

I would make every effort to use the front fenders you have. They won't be that difficult to bend back into shape, just some time and patience. The floor pans are pretty easy if you choose to remove the body from the frame. The photo enclosed is of a M38A1 that I did some body work on. The floors were pretty much gone to the point that you couldn't lift the body off the frame without it wanting to taco in half. A little time and effort, and anything can be fixed.

Thanks for the reply. I'll plan on gettng the fenders straight. I'm sure that there's more than I'm seeing but this will be a body off full refurbishment. I'd say restoration but that wouldn't be technically correct.