Hello From Kansas!

[Mike P]

Just wanted to pop in and say hello and (try to?) post a picture of my latest project. After lusting after a military jeep since I was a wee lad I finally pulled the trigger on this one a couple months ago and dragged it home from Nebraska. It is a ‘44 GPW body on a ‘45 MB chassis.

Someone at some point put an F head motor in it that is currently stuck. A week after I dragged it home I found some Willys wheels with the old NDT tires on FB marketplace so I had to grab those up! On the way home from that adventure I stopped to look at a pile of MB parts that another guy was selling and went back the next weekend and picked up a Go Devil engine in pieces and a few other bits and bobs.

The project will be a long term one. Fortunately most of the major bits are there and I have already started buying other little bits and pieces like handles and such.

I’m new to these vehicles so I will sit back and try to use the search function and take it all in!

[LarrBeard]

" It is a ‘44 GPW body on a ‘45 MB chassis."

That could well have been the result of post WW II Depot rebuild. Whatever fit went back onto the frame - kind of like running M1 rifles through Depot Overhaul. Manufacturer's don't matter, just parts.

[bmorgil]

Welcome Mike! That should be a great project. I like the "operating room".

[Mike P]

" It is a ‘44 GPW body on a ‘45 MB chassis."

That could well have been the result of post WW II Depot rebuild. Whatever fit went back onto the frame - kind of like running M1 rifles through Depot Overhaul. Manufacturer's don't matter, just parts.


Welcome Mike! That should be a great project. I like the "operating room".

Thanks gents! Unfortunately the guy I got it from had no history on it. It had some 14” wheels and tires that looked like they were from the ‘60s. There is also a radio (AM) and antennae mount and it looks like it may have had a roll bar of some sort at some time as well. Someone used it as their little street buggy! It is slathered with failing undercoating but that’s probably what saved it!

Overall it’s actually in pretty good shape. The floors are really nice and it has minimal rust really. It must have been stored indoors as it has a pretty good coating of barn dirt on it.

Now it’s in my pole barn as my shop and garages are already full. I decided to dress up it’s little area with all the stuff I’ve collected/ inherited over the years, ha! Nerd alert!

[bmorgil]

Love the nostalgia and the Jeep! It is rare to find one with floorboards. You definitely have a good start for whatever you want to do with it.

[Mike P]

Love the nostalgia and the Jeep! It is rare to find one with floorboards. You definitely have a good start for whatever you want to do with it.

Thanks! I’m super excited about it! At this point I don’t plan on a full restoration (but that could change, ha!} I’d like to get it mechanically sound and use it around the farm with the occasional jaunt to town thrown in for good measure. Anyway, it will be a long term project. Maybe I’ll start a “resurrection” thread to keep me honest!

[gmwillys]

Welcome Mike P,

Great project!

Everything you may need to know about Depot reconditioning, just in case you have any residual nomenclature attached to the tub under all the crud. This may lead to gathering a little bit of the history of your rig;

http://www.ewillys.com/2019/02/12/jeep-reconditioning-programs/

[Mike P]

Welcome Mike P,

Great project!

Everything you may need to know about Depot reconditioning, just in case you have any residual nomenclature attached to the tub under all the crud. This may lead to gathering a little bit of the history of your rig;

http://www.ewillys.com/2019/02/12/jeep-reconditioning-programs/

Hey thanks for that! Very interesting article!

[Mike P]

I’ve been adding a few things here and there as time and money allow. I picked up some reproduction seat frames from C&C Equipment (MD Juan stuff I believe?) and a friend mentioned he had a windshield on his swap meet pile. Turned out to be a CJ2A screen but close enough for now. The price was right and it’s in pretty good shape!

Now I can properly sit in her and make Jeep noses!

[gmwillys]

Good deal on the windshield frame. Most wouldn't know the difference on the 2A frame and the MB/GPW frames, so it will do nicely until you find the right one for your build.

[bmorgil]

You have to sit in it and make Jeep noises! A very important step in the restoration phase. Gets the imagination going.

[Mike P]

You have to sit in it and make Jeep noises! A very important step in the restoration phase. Gets the imagination going.

I totally agree, ha!

[Mike P]

I picked up another L134 over the weekend. It’s almost complete but missing con rods and pistons. I may try to throw parts at it to get it going while my MB block is out for machine work. Can anyone pint me toward a good engine book for the MB and or CJs??? Thanks is advance!

[bmorgil]

The best book I have read on the L134 and the F134 s the Universal Service Manual from KW. Everything you need to go completely through the motor is in there, in pretty simple language. The TM1804 Military Manual is also a good source. There is a link to it in the Tech Section. I will paste it below. Let your mind go wild with Google and you will find videos, books and opinions. There is a lot of little "tidbits" in the Tech Sections on this forum, stuff on compression, gaskets, assembly and lots of information. Use the search engine on the site if you are curious about a subject. Chances are someone has also had the same curiosity.

https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys.com/showthread.php?2345-TM9-1804A-Engine-and-Clutch-for-1-4-Ton-4x4-Utility-Truck-M38

[LarrBeard]

That looks like a great find... in what shape is the crank?

[Mike P]

The best book I have read on the L134 and the F134 s the Universal Service Manual from KW. Everything you need to go completely through the motor is in there, in pretty simple language. The TM1804 Military Manual is also a good source. There is a link to it in the Tech Section. I will paste it below. Let your mind go wild with Google and you will find videos, books and opinions. There is a lot of little "tidbits" in the Tech Sections on this forum, stuff on compression, gaskets, assembly and lots of information. Use the search engine on the site if you are curious about a subject. Chances are someone has also had the same curiosity.

https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys.com/showthread.php?2345-TM9-1804A-Engine-and-Clutch-for-1-4-Ton-4x4-Utility-Truck-M38

Hey thanks so much. I knew I’d get a good idea on starting points for my tech library!


That looks like a great find... in what shape is the crank?

Yes! A hot rod friend of mine contacted me recently and said he had pulled it out of his ‘49 wagon 7 or 8 years ago. He said it had popped the top off of one of the pistons. Doesn’t seem to have damaged the cylinder. Unfortunately he’s not sure what he did with those or the rods. The bores have light rust from condensation and peering through the jugs the crank looks really nice? The whole valve train is there and moves freely. I borrowed some telescoping gauges and measured the bores and they appear to be standard?! I’d really like to find some used (cheap) rods and throw some pistons in it!

[bmorgil]

For rods you should be able to find some on the WWW. I found one on eBay still in the box! The L and F 134 engine exists in many things industrial and vehicular. Just remember the rods are NOT all the same in the motor itself. You need 2 EVEN rods and 2 ODD rods. In other words if you can find 2 number one rods, and 2 number 2 rods, or 2 number 3 rods and 2 number 4 rods etc, your in business. Just be sure to get them all resized, new bolts and match them all to the same weight on the large end (Crank Journal) and the small end (Wrist Pin).

[Mike P]

For rods you should be able to find some on the WWW. I found one on eBay still in the box! The L and F 134 engine exists in many things industrial and vehicular. Just remember the rods are NOT all the same in the motor itself. You need 2 EVEN rods and 2 ODD rods. In other words if you can find 2 number one rods, and 2 number 2 rods, or 2 number 3 rods and 2 number 4 rods etc, your in business. Just be sure to get them all resized, new bolts and match them all to the same weight on the large end (Crank Journal) and the small end (Wrist Pin).

Ah! Such good info. I just discovered that odd rod thing last week looking at new rods in the KW catalogue. Had no idea the rods were different. I assume that is covered in one of the service manuals? I’ve got lots of reading to do,ha!

[bmorgil]

The offset is different on the rods. The offsets position the rod in the middle of the piston. The engine will go together just fine with the rods in the wrong place. The small end of the rod will be positioned off to one side of the piston instead of the middle. This will increase the side load on the piston and heavily tax the rings. It usually will scuff the cylinder wall and/or break a ring after it runs for a while that way. I have taken one apart that ran with an even rod in number one cylinder. Eventually it broke the piston lands, the rings and grooved the bore.

[Mike P]

The offset is different on the rods. The offsets position the rod in the middle of the piston. The engine will go together just fine with the rods in the wrong place. The small end of the rod will be positioned off to one side of the piston instead of the middle. This will increase the side load on the piston and heavily tax the rings. It usually will scuff the cylinder wall and/or break a ring after it runs for a while that way. I have taken one apart that ran with an even rod in number one cylinder. Eventually it broke the piston lands, the rings and grooved the bore.

So I’m assuming then that there are different part numbers? Is there a way to tell which one is for which position without part numbers?

[bmorgil]

The part numbers are different. 641774 for the odd rods and 641775 for the even. You usually buy them by the position however. A lot of people sell the used rods as a "number one" or a number two" rod etc. The rods are stamped 1, 2, 3, and 4. The sellers usually just note the rod number.

[Mike P]

The part numbers are different. 641774 for the odd rods and 641775 for the even. You usually buy them by the position however. A lot of people sell the used rods as a "number one" or a number two" rod etc. The rods are stamped 1, 2, 3, and 4. The sellers usually just note the rod number.

Oh gotcha. My MB engine was apart (well the pistons/rods were out) when I got it. I did notice the rods were stamped but I just assumed whoever took it apart did that. Thanks again! Let me know when you get tired of my questions, ha!

[LarrBeard]

Keep asking. For every question you ask, there are several people who think; "I'm sure glad he asked that - now I know the answer to ....???"

[bmorgil]

The questions create great learning experiences for us all Mike, not going to get tired of them!

The rod numbering subject is a good one. You mentioned you thought someone might have marked the rods when they disassembled it. Many times that is the case. Not all manufactures mark the rods after new assembly and, someone on the assembly line could easily forget. So it is quite possible the rods may not be marked. In that case it is important the person who disassembles them, marks them. In the case of the 134's I think it would be rare to find a used one without a mark.

[Mike P]

Thanks fellas! Be careful what you wish for as I’ve lots of questions!

Well the Jeep gods shined down upon me again yesterday and I dragged some more crap home…my wife was thrilled, ha!

Anywho, take a peek at the pics and tell me what you think. Complete set of rods out of a stuck .040 ‘46 CJ2A.

That is a different number and I think all the rods have that number? Is that just a casting number?

[bmorgil]

I love the basket of parts! Some good stuff in there. The rod marking of "4" in your last photo is the number we are looking for. This would be the number 4 rod and an "even rod". It can be used in #2 cylinder or #4 cylinder, once the rods are "reconditioned". If it is used as a #2 rod it should be remarked as such. Once the rods are "run in" you should always try to get them back in the same spot if you disassemble it later on.

Your observation is correct on the number cast into the side of the rod. That is the casting number identifying the casting mold the rod came out of.

[Mike P]

I love the basket of parts! Some good stuff in there. The rod marking of "4" in your last photo is the number we are looking for. This would be the number 4 rod and an "even rod". It can be used in #2 cylinder or #4 cylinder, once the rods are "reconditioned". If it is used as a #2 rod it should be remarked as such. Once the rods are "run in" you should always try to get them back in the same spot if you disassemble it later on.

Your observation is correct on the number cast into the side of the rod. That is the casting number identifying the casting mold the rod came out of.

Yes! I got some good stuff! Basically a complete disassembled motor with a cracked block. But it’s all the stuff I was missing to put the one together that I got the weekend before!

Plus I didn’t have one single carb so that was a big factor in my purchase.

[bmorgil]

More good stuff Mike! Everything original you can find will save you money and trouble that's for sure.

[gmwillys]

This has been my experience with projects. You find a suitable build candidate, then before you know it, parts/parts donors come out of the woodwork. When I had an M38A1 that I started on, before I was done, I had two good donors, and a rolling chassis and body that was too good to cut up. Even on rare occasions, people come knocking at the door trying to wholesale you their projects.

[Mike P]

More good stuff Mike! Everything original you can find will save you money and trouble that's for sure.

Yes! I’m a big fan of original parts when they can be had!


This has been my experience with projects. You find a suitable build candidate, then before you know it, parts/parts donors come out of the woodwork. When I had an M38A1 that I started on, before I was done, I had two good donors, and a rolling chassis and body that was too good to cut up. Even on rare occasions, people come knocking at the door trying to wholesale you their projects.

I’ve already got grandiose dreams to build a “series 1 Land Rover” on a jeep chassis when I’m finished with this one, ha! It’s a sickness...:D

[gmwillys]

I'm liking your plans for your next project. A Land Rover on a Jeep chassis would be pretty ingenious. I had seen one of these Saturday morning TV shows where they used a reproduction Rover body on a JK Wrangler frame, but I didn't see the whole series to see how it turned out.

[bmorgil]

Oh that would be neat. With an LS engine even better.

[Mike P]

I'm liking your plans for your next project. A Land Rover on a Jeep chassis would be pretty ingenious. I had seen one of these Saturday morning TV shows where they used a reproduction Rover body on a JK Wrangler frame, but I didn't see the whole series to see how it turned out.

Yes! I agree though I can’t take credit as it is my understanding that the very first Rover was actually built on an MB chassis back in ‘46 or ‘47 before they started production in ‘48!

I’m a British car nerd as well. Jags, Rovers, Lagonda, Bentley! I love them all!


Oh that would be neat. With an LS engine even better.

[gmwillys]

A British car aficionado is definitely a special breed of mechanics/electricians. My hats off to you Sir.

Lucus replacement smoke;

http://www.whereisbobl.com/tiger/smoke.html

[Mike P]

A British car aficionado is definitely a special breed of mechanics/electricians. My hats off to you Sir.

Lucus replacement smoke;

http://www.whereisbobl.com/tiger/smoke.html

Haha! That’s fantastic! :D