Crank

[steve welder]

So started to tear into my 134 f. Pulled the rear cap and #4 rod cap, bearings are well worn and the journals need to be cut. The bearings say 10 so Im assuming the crank was already cut 10 under . However the part of crank that the rear main seal rides is showing damage, pitted and marked up. So I would say it needs to be welded and ground
The rubber dowels were stick up slightly past the block, dont know if this is correct. The pan bolt holes look like they were overtightened at one time. There was also no sealant around the area of the cap as ive seen done in so many videos. Its no wonder it leaked badly
There was good 1/4 inch of sludge in the pan and there were many mismatched bolts
Ive got my work cut out for sure

[bmorgil]

Bring it back to life Steve! The seals are supposed to stick up slightly at the main cap. The seal surface can be cleaned up as long as it doesn't take too much to clean it. The seals, especially the rope seal, have a little room for oversize. The machinist will know for sure. Usually taking a few thousands off wont hurt anything. It sounds like .020 under might bring the crank bearing surfaces back.

A word of caution, if the head studs were replaced with bolts, look for cracks where the bolt shoulder hits the block. The shoulder can bottom in the block threads and it will crack the block at the threads when it is tightened. Usually it can be fixed with an insert.

[steve welder]

Thank you for all your help.......I have maybe 4 head studs left in this block, everything else was bolts, the studs were were the oil filter bracket mounted
Of course they are frozen....Im going to try heating the stud and cooling a few times plus soaking with fluids
My question would be this is a later 1948 CJ 2A....Does this engine or should this engine have all studs and is your opinion that bolts might contribute to coolant leaks in the head?
Again thank you very much

[bmorgil]

Definitely all studs Steve. Bolts don't work very well on the Go Devil. First chase the threads in the block so you can run the studs in and out with your fingers. You install them very loose, drop the gasket and head on and then run them down finger tight. If you don't leave them loose you will have trouble dropping the head on. They kind of self align when the head is down and you snug them up with your fingers. Once you bottom them finger tight, bring the nuts up to torque in sequence. If the surfaces are flat and you used a USA head gasket, that should be as good as it gets.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/nsearch/?q=head%20studs#/?keywords=head%20studs&search_return=all&Vehicletype=3844

[LarrBeard]

Every so often, something comes along that is useful to a discussion that is ongoing:

This week's KWAS Tip ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-p6fYMXMaY

I never realized that there should be two longer studs for the oil filter bracket. We're still learning.

[gmwillys]

Yes, the oil filter bracket does get the longer studs. I've run into an issue on the Heep, when it comes to installing the cross over tube for the air cleaner as well. Whenever in history, new studs were installed and were a hodge podge of different lengths. The two that mount the cross over tube are too short to accept the tube base, washer, and nut with enough thread engagement. So in short, the oil bath air cleaner will remain just blue tooth connected to the carburetor, with just a paper element to trap dust.