Steering is Too Tight (46 CJ2A)

[slimjim_buffalo]

I'm having the opposite problem as most. My steering is too tight and I don't think I'm getting full range of motion to turn.

History - I had a mechanic rebuild my steering box last summer, it was cracked open with wild play, he repaired the box, and installed a TightSteer Sector Shaft tensioner and it worked perfect. I've had my CJ2A up on blocks the over winter and spring while I upgraded to disc brakes, new 16" rims and Military NDT Tires. First time on the ground, I couldn't turn the wheel physically at all. I don't think my new brakes are causing any issues, I can't see anything in the steering linkage preventing movement.

I put it back up on blocks, greased all the fittings, and up in the air still extremely hard to turn the steering wheel and it binds to a stop in both directions very early (I think).

1. I loosened the "TightSteer Sector Shaft tensioner" till its loose. (steering wheel turns easier, but still very limited range)

2. The STEERING PITMAN ARM has a little bit of play, you can push it back into the steering box along the steering shaft about 1/4"

3. STEERING CONNECTING ROD can twist rotate - but I think its supposed to do that

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4. STEERING BELLCRANK will rotate forward and reverse exactly 1 3/4" when from steering Left to Right - Is that normal?

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My steering wheel can turn exactly 1 full rotation. - Is that normal?

My best estimate is my tires can turn 10 degrees to the left and 15 degrees to the right. Any thoughts?

[test1328]

Slimjim,
I'm not an expert by any stretch and I'm sure our resident experts will be along shortly to answer this for you. However, I've just recently rebuilt my steering on my CJ5 and there are a few things that I believe I can comment on.
1. With the TightSteer loosened you should have full range of motion so the fact that it loosened up somewhat but not much says there is a problem.
2. The steering pitman arm (that connects directly to the steering box) should not have the play that you describe. This would lead me to believe that there is a problem in the steering box.
3. The steering connecting rod should be able to twist and rotate. That is why you have the ball joints that are connecting it at both ends.

I don't believe that only being able to turn your steering wheel 1 full rotation is normal. Likewise, the bellcrank should go further. That is not normal.

I'd be tempted to remove the steering box and tear it apart, but I know what a hassle that is. I'll be interested to see what others say. I do have my rebuilt steering box off of my Jeep currently, so I could check and see how many rotations it takes to go from one end to the other if that would help.

One other thing I noticed is that in your second picture of the bellcrank, it appears that the bellcrank is mounted upside down. The ball on the bellcrank that connects to the draglink (or connecting rod) should be facing up, not down. It's possible that the bellcrank is hitting something that is preventing the steering from turning it as far as it needs to go. Of course, I would have thought you would've noticed this previously before you changed the wheels and brakes.

[bmorgil]

I think Test1238 is all over it. I would do everything he has brought up.

The wheel turns more than one turn. Something is hitting or binding. Correct the bell crank first. Here is a good read on issues I had, and created on mine. There is also a discussion on the TightSteer

https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys.com/showthread.php?2087-Help-Ross-steering-gear-turns&highlight=Steering

[51 CJ3]

Bellcrank looks like it is installed like my ‘47. I didn’t have any problems steering it when I pushed it into the barn. My CJ3A is different. The rod from the steering box mounts on top of the bellcrank in it.

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[slimjim_buffalo]

Update: A neighbor who owns classics came over and looked it over while turned the steering wheel. He immediately went to the STEERING PITMAN ARM flexing out the steering box as the issue. He thinks I will find the issue is inside steering box. I was hoping that wasn't the case, but it looks I will be tearing the box open very soon.

Thank you for the tips and insights, I will be doing to more research on the steering box rebuild.

[slimjim_buffalo]

Thank you Sir, this is the info I needed.

[slimjim_buffalo]

Update. Problem Solved.

Long story Short, I started at the steering box and disconnected each leg of the steering assembly till I found the source of the limited range of motion. It wasn't the Box, shaft arm, pitman arm, conectioning rod, bell crank, or tie rods (all disconnected one at a time). :mad:

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It was the two bottom bolts on the spindle hitting the inside of the passenger side knuckle. I used 1/2" longer bolts during my disc brake conversion because I couldn't get the originals to catch with added thickness of the new hardware. So by adding a couple of washers, they are now no longer hitting the walls of the knuckle.

This trouble shooting journey taught me a lot about how the steering works on CJ so that is a positive takeaway of my error. :rolleyes:

[bmorgil]

Way to hammer through it sjb! Sometimes it is things you just don't think of.

[LarrBeard]

We have all, at one time or another, created our own unique problems ... usually by something simple like that.

[gmwillys]

SlimJim,

Glad you were able to troubleshoot your way through your issue. You followed the KISS method and you found your issue. As a good take-a-way, you are well versed in the steering set up on your Willys. Let us know how you like the disk brake conversion.

[test1328]

Awesome! Glad you didn't have to tear down the steering box and it was a relatively "simple" fix! Ha! I always tell people that nothing is simple. There are always complications, even when you think things should be straight forward and easy. Those 30 minute jobs usually end up taking me 8 hours to complete since you go from one complication to another. Glad you found the problem SlimJim.