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Newbie with a MB
Lads-
I’ll be the first to admit that my maintenance skills/experience are somewhat limited, but trying to learn as I go; the engine on my 1944-Willys MB was running AOK - god rpms, smooth running engine - until last Saturday, when I felt a sligh sputter, which progressively got worse until I couldn’t get it started.
Took it into the Auto Skills Center here on Fort Benning & they recommended that I replace the battery & spark plugs - which I did - got it started again & it was running, but pretty rough - had it running again this morning for about a minute & engine conked out again
Here’s the work we’ve done on the Jeep since we received it last May
Replaced all 4 leaf springs & shocks
Pumped old fuel from fuel tank & only use non-ethanol fuel
Replaced carburetor w/ new Solex Carburetor
Replaced gas tank cap gasket
Replaced spark plugs and battery [6 Volt]
Any & all suggestions/help is welcome
Thanks
Chris
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Chris, I would take a look at replacing the points and condenser as well as the cap. Recheck the timing and see how it runs. I do think you would have been better off with any Carter Carburetor (rebuilt or new) over the Solex. A new Solex should work however.
Do you have some form of filter between the carburetor and the fuel pump? With no filter, if there is crap in the fuel tank it will end the mission! Crap will pass through the large 1/4 inch passages in the fuel pump. It wont make through the Solex, or any carb for that matter. If you suspect crap in the fuel, a thorough carb cleaning will be in order.
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I was thinking the same for the points, condenser & cap
There is an inline fuel filter between the fuel tank & the gas pump - should I look at an additional one between the carburetor & fuel pump?
Thanks for the intel!
Chris
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Chris, though some do get away with the filter between the pump and the tank, it belongs between the pump and the carb. The suction side of the pump is not very forgiving of even the slightest of restriction. The pump in these isn't very strong. Fuel pressure is low to begin with. A suction pump has a lot more ability to pull through. Fuel pumps are not very good suction pumps.
Put a filter between the pump and the carb. I would not run a filter between the tank and the pump unless you are sure it has VERY little restriction. I would say it is good you have a filter. It should have kept crap out of the carb.
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Lewis505,
Although I run my filter pre pump, I do agree with Bmorgil on his fine points of putting the filter post pump. As a counter point I run a lined fuel tank, and am careful to put in clean fuel, but that doesn't mean that a bug or wasp can't appear in the fuel supply. I've seen it happen too many times to count. In my mind, I would rather protect the fuel pump from debris then feed it junk.
With that being said, the right and proper factory fuel filter is mounted to the passenger side firewall.
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/diagram...mb/fuel-filter
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/w...opic44347.html
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gm that KW filter is a nice looking piece! It has me thinking.... Expensive little bugger however.
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Yeah, $195. Would lighten your wallet, but then the element can be changed.... At $25. It isn't cheap either, but if you are going for period correct....
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Thanks for all the intel lads - heading to the Auto Skills Center tomm & see what we can do - will keep you posted
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Would this be the correct filter for an MC / 1952 M38?
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So, replaced the points & condenser cap, she turns over, but still won’t start; can see clear fuel inside the fuel pump globe & screen is clean; mechanics said that since it’s a new battery, the Jeep is stored in an outside vehicle trailer & it’s been in the low 30s the past few nights, a 6V battery trickler might not be a bad idea