I agree with TJones. $4,000 sounds like a lot, but in the long run it is worth every penny.
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I agree with TJones. $4,000 sounds like a lot, but in the long run it is worth every penny.
All in here! That's a fair price for disassembly and reassembly. For your records and sanity in the future, ask him for the complete machining and build sheets (lists of everything that was done to re machine it and a list of the assembly checks). He shouldn't mind, it will add greatly to the value, to someone who understands the information. This is done on racing engines as a prerequisite. We know you are not building a racing engine, but to have that information is the proof of a good job.
"The only bad thing (for me) is the expense, which will run me about $4K."
As a comparison, an F-134 rebuild in NE Indiana six years ago was $3,100, but that did not include balancing - just putting it together. There was no added charge for leaving out the head bolt under the carburetor.
It's not chump change, but he is a rebuilder who specializes in older engines and it does not appear to be an unreasonable amount.
Thanks for the feedback, guys. I didn't really think the price was unreasonable for what was being asked, but it still makes you swallow hard.
Thanks also for the suggestion to get the machining and build sheets, bmorgil. I'll do that.
TJones, he didn't say how long it would take him, but I would expect a few months. I told him that I probably wouldn't have the engine out until December and he said that worked for him since he currently has 4 engines that he's working on and his schedule was starting to open up in December. I told him I really wasn't in a big hurry for it since I have a ton of other things to do to the vehicle and he said I was the type of customer he liked! HA! I'm sure he'll be done with it before I have a true need for it.
You just need to be diligent about checking in on it.
I took mine to my guy and I told him the same thing and he put it on the back burner for almost a year :(:(
But he finally got to it, got it done and put it on the Dyno and if you read my thread we had to start all over due to a bad rebuilt long block I bought from a company in Michigan.
You shouldn’t have any problems like I had but sometimes those engine builders get side tracked, they are like engineers or lawyers, they are a Breed of their own:):)
Good ones stand out like sore thumb, and from the sounds of the one you picked he’s right there with the best of them!!!!
TJ, yeah, you're right. I will stay on top of him, checking in with him periodically. These engine guys sound like the taxidermists that I have used. They lose sight of all the projects they have going and let things slide and before you know it, two years have gone by! HA!
I'm going to ask him to take pictures and send them to me. Not sure if that will work since he told me he is just now trying to get used to using his new cell phone...But, as we've discussed, I'm really interested to see how the engine looks before he starts working on it. We'll see if he can do that for me.
Hi Guys,
I finally had a chance to start tearing into my CJ5, trying to remove the engine. I removed the front fenders and the grill with the radiator. Here are few pics of what it looks like after that was done.
Attachment 8903
Attachment 8904
Attachment 8905
I've started removing various parts from the engine, including the generator, starter, oil filter housing, and heater assembly. Still have a few more pieces to remove before I'm ready to try and move the engine.
A couple of questions that you might be able to help me with:
1. Where and how to attach chains to lift the engine out?
2. About how far forward to I need to move the engine before it is free and I can lift it out of the bay?
3. Will I need to support the transmission at all with a jack to prevent it from tipping toward the engine once I start removing the engine?
4. Is there any reason NOT to remove the fan blade? I don't want it to hang up and get bent during this operation.
I'm sure I'll have more questions, but thought I'd start with these. Thanks!
Probably need something like this to hoist the engine out:
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/nos-eng...4-134-f-engine
You can attach the chains under two head studs or any large bolts you can get the chains under in the front and rear of the engine.
The engine needs to come free of the transmission input shaft in the clutch pressure plate bolted to the flywheel. About 2" should do it.
Definitely a good idea to support the transmission. All of the load will be on the single bolt holding the rear of the transfer case if you don't.
No problem pulling the fan blade.
Looking good man! You are definitely into it now.
Thanks, bmorgil! Great info.