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HAVE COMPLETELY RAN OUT OF BUSY WORK ON THE FRAME AND ENGINE. JUST WAITING FOR PARTS, FUEL PUMP, MASTER CYLINDER AND 24VDC CONNECTOR TO DISTRIBUTOR. DO HAVE A QUESTION
fuel from fuel pump to carb, flex hose or steel pipe, probably can use a piece of hose with connectors but photos are all of steel? BUT I HAVE NO IDEA HOW TO BEND STEEL PIPE WITHOUT GORPING IT UP. MAKE SOME KIND OF JIG?? LIKE CONDUIT SOME KIND OF BENDER? AND THEN I HAVE TO GET A FLARE KIT TO FLARE THE ENDS, NEVER DONE THAT EITHER, DOES NOT LOOK ALL THAT DIFFICULT, BUT FLARE KIT TOOLS AINT CHEAP AT LEAST WHAT I HAVE SEEN...................
SUCH IS LIFE??
IN CASE ANYONE IS WONDERING, AM NOT YELLING AS THE COMPUTER PEOPLE SAY BUT MY TIRED *** EYES NEED THIS BIG PRINT TO SEE WHAT IN THE HELL I AM WRITING
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Great, got a link to a tube bender waiting on moderator approval. I have a smaller lever type bender that does 3 different diameter tubes. One like it should work well for you.
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Go to the Harbor Freight web page and search for “3755”. That’s the item number for one similar to what I use.
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I concur with 51 CJ3 on the tubing bender. I have one similar to that one shown, and it does work well for tight radius work. An old wire coat hanger or filler rod works well to form a template to work out the routing. A lot easier to bend up a filler rod, then translate it to the tubing, than just eyeballing the tube on how you need it bent.
The harbor freight link for the bender;
https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-bender-3755.html
A cheap flare kit;
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-piec...-kit-5969.html
Usually the local auto parts house has a loan a tool program that may have a flaring kit that you can use. Auto Zone claims to have a free loan program, just open the case to ensure all the pieces are there. Flaring is pretty simple when you get down to it. Just remember to put the threaded connector on the correct way before you flare the tube.
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wow, pretty cheap too... what size tubing, have not bought this stuff in over 50 yrs, but think that i will like steel tubing better than rubber hose, and got a ton of tubing to get and bend for all the other stuff on the vent line. cool. got a harbor freight place a few miles away. and called Mike at Kaiser, my fuel pump time limit of what they told me was yesterday they have had it 4 wks now..................anxious. found some busy work, putting headlight framework in the front grill, painted the inside of the "light pocket" with olive so i can start to assemble the thingAttachment 2294
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Going from memory, I believe it is 5/16" fuel line from the tank to a rubber fuel hose, before going to the fuel pump. 1/4" from the fuel pump to the carb. One of the local auto parts houses has brake lines that are already coated in an olive colored coating. They look good after they are installed. Looks like they belong. NAPA will be your best source for any special fittings and adapters, if needed.
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Other thoughts.
When you bend tubing, if you can work a couple of coat hangers around the bend to support the bend, it will reduce the chance of kinking something.
Make sure fittings are English inches, not metric.
Get Auto Zone veteran discount - it pays most sales taxes.
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Fitting oil, vacuum and fuel lines can be an exasperating job, but if it gets done well it really makes a difference between a Jeep that runs and one that looks really good.
There are places where we decided that splicing a line was a lot easier that trying to run one single line from point A to point B. In some places we used flared splices and in others we sleeved and soldered tubing together.
The coiled tubing to the bottom of the oil filter wasn't a good idea at all. Get the flex hose from Mike and save yourself a messy clean-up job.
And, even if they look good - be very wary of old lines. The flares are work hardened and brittle and after a couple of months they tend to split out and start seeping. You might try annealing them - but new lines are probably worth the trouble of working them into place.
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THE WORK CONTINUES... Got my master cylinder yesterday, and the 24vdc connector to the distributor. Brake lines complete now, put some brake fluid in and let gravity do most of the work, master cylinder higher than any of the individual cylinders. put the plug on the dist, connected it to ignition switch and 24vdc at the distributor
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Attachment 2301
looking for the outside ring or bezel in the diagram, not having much luck
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Check out 1/4 ton and military parts.Com. They keep a lot of M38A1 N.O.S. parts on hand, at reasonable prices. I have bought a lot of odd ball parts from them, and have no complaints. You might want to call and see if they have any good used units.
https://quartertonparts.com/
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ALSO........
Am not happy with the linkage between brake pedal and master cylinder, seems that the throw is very long before it engages the inside cylinder to strt the brake fluid, all lines are bled.
and am not happy with the clutch seems the cable is so long that the throw out bearing has to have clutch pedal all the way in. got to research this some more
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Here is some useful information about what folks have run into on their clutch adjustment. The common solution is to shorten the threaded end to allow for proper adjustment.
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/c...opic39519.html
The brake pedal adjustment is typically right on. I don't recall ever having to adjust the push rod when changing a master cylinder. Maybe the rod was shortened by a previous owner for who knows why. I'll look up a measurement after while and post it, for what it should be. Then we can go from there.
Here is a link with video on the brake master cylinder adjustment. 1" of free pedal is the normal adjustment amount.
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/master-...-5-6-m38-m38a1
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HUZZAAHHHHH. (old school from the Hornblower series) IT STARTED
Did it run like a top, NO, but it will
Did I hear any funny noises NO, thats a good thing
did it smoke, hell yeah it did, all that marvel mystery oil in the cylinders had to get consumed.. but that stopped
I have am sure some carburetor issues, might have to get a case of Corona and a carb kit from Kaiser and take it down the street, just happen to have a young friend that i would consider a master mechanic, he used to mow my hard 30 years ago. seems to flood pretty easy, worse than biblical (checked float and it is all there and looks like it works)
Also have am sure some timing issues, but page 170 from the manual starts that path, dont have the adapter for a timing light, hell dont even have a timing light.
Had one serious oil leak and i searched and searched for it and thought i was oil pan, but no it wasnt that. then i groaned and said crap front seal, but no oil from around the pulley. then after banging my head and banging my left hand (yeah it started bleeding again) So here i was pissed and bleeding and i looked up, coming out of the top of the oil filter.... my nice newly painted oil filter now has a grimy rusty top on it, but dond leak 1130 or so and am going to bed oh yeah, need someone to educate me on the vacuum line to the distributor, ??the vacuum line advances the distributor? or it should idle okay without the line, yes, no? have some serious plumbing to do before, before that is done,,, the main one from pump to the along with the crankcase and the pvc to the intake manifold is done, but the one to the distributor is in dis repair, and according to the manual it is somehow connected to the mainline, but can not figure that on out so far
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Attachment 2324
without the lights makes it look like a insect, had to put the grill on to keep the fan sort of aligned
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Congratulations. That's a step in the right direction. The oil filters never leak when they are covered in rust and crud. Usually the vacuum advance ties in to the base of the carburetor, in order to get constant vacuum. You can run the engine all you want without the advance hooked up, without issue. As long as your vacuum source is plugged, the engine will run just fine. When you go to crack the throttle, (mid to full) she will stumble without the advance connected. A timing light is nice to set it to speck, but an experienced ear can work just as well. The military did have a timing kit that had all the adapters for timing the 24 volt distributor, (a standard 12 volt timing light will not work) and they do come up for sale from time to time, at a premium price. I know of one kit that was found at a flea market that was bought for $40, but those are few and far between.
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IAW service manual the firing order is 1,3,4,2. not a problem, but when i put that on the distributor nada, went to TDC on the block (finger in the hole method) can not see down the hole whatsoever it appears that the firing order is not as in the manual. possible reasons, 1. oil pump taken out and not replaced correctly, distributor taken out and not put back in correctly. since distribotor needs to be turned clockwise to advance, it appears as if the dist is maxed on adbance going back to basics. will pull number 1 out of hole and again do the compression finger test. while watching the uncovered dist and see what happens. am confident it will run all right.
addendum 1hr later
Went out to the beast and confirmed that the firing order is now different than the manual. took cap off again and held finger over #1 hole and watched the rotor, it compressed where it should be #3. changed over the cap to the actual firing order as it physically is and loosened the dist and tried again. nothing, roved the distributor ever so slowly and nada not one damn thing. Pull dist and back it off one "click" so to speak?? damifiknow it ried to run yesterday but just was not there?? ran sort of for about 3 seconds yesterday
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First things first, the engine was running a day or so ago? It wasn't running perfect, but was running? What changes were made in between then and now, if any? I ask because you had mentioned that the carb was flooding easily. Just trying to see the whole picture.
If you had compression when the rotor was at the number three firing position, then your distributor is about two to three clicks off. Pull the distributor out, bring number one up on compression, then set the distributor back with the rotor in the close neighborhood to number one. When you move the If you run into an issue with the oil pump being out of sink with the firing order position, that isn't the end of the world. You can place the distributor in to verify the position of the oil pump at TDC, then base your firing order off of that. The oil pump will only allow you two positions to install the distributor, either on, or 180 degrees out. Either way, you can put number one firing position on the cap, wherever you need it to be. The only limitation would be if you are running the waterproof military plug wires. I don't think that there was much slack when installed, so that would be a limiting factor on firing order placement.
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It might be a good idea to check your ignition switch. I did a lot to my engine to fix rough running (overhauled carb, tuned up distributor, replaced distributor, plugs and wires) and all I needed was a new switch.
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not the switch, am positive because i am feeding the dist right off the pin a of the regulator and that is what goes to the switch.
now here is the bad news.
GOT A STUCK EX VALVE... DAMN DAMN DOUBLE DAMN
3 ISSUES
1. either the oil pump was replaced and not put in right or the dist taken out and not put in right. have to be tdc on #1 to do that, dont think it was done properly. firing order by manual is 1,3,4,2 dist layed out where #1 is top and right corner, this particular dist has the firing order where number 3 is. can deal with that i think (think)
2. stuck valve is a completly new issue, old school was that stuck valves could be cleared by pouring stp down the carb while engine running, actuall have done that twice once on a ford flathead and once on a 56 pontiac. both times it worked. However not so sure this time. valve is stuck open. In years (YEARS) past i have taken heads off old flatheads and done things and replaced the head without changing head gaskets (when you only make 15.00 a week working at a grocery store after school money is tight) and was successful, maybe can do this time also, depends on the head gasket. taking head off not something i planned on doing, but think i have no choice. Then the actual valve think it is rusted tight at this time and that is wht happens when these things are not run. had it been turned over at least thais probably would not have happened.
Taking the head off today as soon as my garage warms up a bit, just went outside and fired up the kero heater for a while, it is 32 in the garage at this time (9 39am). when it is a bit warmer i will pull the head off and take a look see, might, just might, might be able to whack the valve with a mallet and loosen it up, tried to do that from inspection side but was unable to do so. I know from experience with old flatheads that this can be done, (hope so)
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A. On the '48, we did have the oil pump 180 out, but if you get the distributor 180 out too ....
Every F and L head fires 1 -3- 4 - 2.
B. We thought we could get away with reusing a head gasket too. Didn't work. Don't plan on leaving a used gasket on permanently - maybe for checking out and fooling around. I have had external leaks as the engine cools down and there is a small leak into #2 that lets the plug foul with coolant a bit and it misses on #2 until things warm up. Pulling the head and replacing the gasket is on the warmer weather list.
C. Did you check fuel pump pressure to carb? I'll bet that new pump runs way more than 2-3 PSI.
You had a plan for getting this back together. Just remember - the plan works until the first time someone smacks you in the nose or the first rounds crack over your head.
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Give the exhaust valve a good soaking with penetrant. Once you get it freed up, you'll be back in business. Your distributor is 180 degrees out. The oil pump is fine, since you have a fine adjustment to get the timing back in sink by fine tuning the distributor.
I would use a new head gasket. I have reused BB Chrysler head gaskets, and have used high temp silicone as header gaskets. This isn't one of those times to skimp.
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MAJOR SETBACK
got the valve freed up and it cleaned up and seemed to work okay, then went to adjust valve. would not adjust. Good friend, who is a master mechanic looked at it and found that the tappet or lifter is stripped??? not adjustable, can not achieve a gap, no matter what we tried, can actualy hold it down and pul the threaded portion out and that aint good. locked the valve open and then worked on it for a while the damn threads are stripped, got to pull the cam out and replace that lifter. after a long discussion it is felt that we can do it without pulling whole engine out, drop oil pan, drop sump, pull oil pump, compress all springs and pull valves, pull front end off, expose gears and timing gears and then pull cam out. after all the lifters are raised up and tied off so that they will not fall out as cam is pulled, (wire ties on each lifter, maybe tape and wire ties, but keep the lifters up, pull cam and then drop the lifters out. Then with each lifter out inspect each one to see that the other three are still good, if not replace all four. My friend mike does not believe that they will be bad because the ihe engine is really in good shape no wear on cylinder walls, no ridge on cylinder wall, and valves are in good shape and
seat well. when ever that valve got stuck, the lifter beat on it and busted the threads. el crapoooooo, boogers, shxxxt, and all the other words that the thing will censor out, but was able to order a head gasket from advance they actually had it in the computer and the photo matched remains of the head gasket..
going to disassemble and then evaluate parts and replace what is bad
Attachment 2325
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Ira;
This is not uncommon with ancient vehicles. Just when you think you're ready to leap ahead, you stub your toe and fall flat on your face.
We thought we had the '48 ready to hit the road - but it would not run. The attached picture is us looking at valves and working our way back into the engine.
The last step was using a dial indicator to find #1 TDC, resetting the oil pump, adjusting mechanical advance on the distributor - then working our way back to an assembled engine. Three carburetors, a new distributor, a head bolt missing under the carb throat then a defective condenser in the new distributor and two more months in the shop - then it ran.
You'll get there.
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are there alignment marks on the gear for cam to crank believe my oil pump also not in proper alignment, and the dist has it firing #1 where#3 is, got to reset both dont you love that damn bolt under carb. this manual that i have is your basic org maint, or as we called 2nd echelon, where no one could go inside anything all had to go to depot repair to get into engine... did have a boost, when i pulled timing gear cover was amazed at how clean it was
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There are marks, but can not recall if the marks are dots or lines.
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as i kinda figured the oil pump not in right. made the dist out of whack
damn cant find a mark anywhere, and the gear looks like its fiber??
Attachment 2334
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Yeah, the gear is fiber, but it's just about eternal - and a lot quieter than a metal gear would be. I think we dial indicatored #1 because we couldn't find a mark either.
You have the head off. Pull the oil pump. The slot in the oil pump shaft is off center. Turn the engine over until you get #1 TDC on the compression stroke (not exhaust). Set the distributor to get the rotor pointed at #1 post on the distributor cap (about 4 -5 o'clock) and note just where the long and short side of the slot on the tongue is. Use the distributor shaft to align the oil pump - don't let the pump drive where the distributor points, make the distributor tell the pump.
Two guys make this job easier...
I just went out and opened the hood on the '48 (with the 5? F-head) to look at just where wires went. On this engine, the wire to #1 is at about 4 or 5 o'clock on the distributor cap.
Good luck and watch out for doing more damage to that hand.
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Attachment 2335
uh oh my manual says the one in photo top right is number 1
have to make it so that the lifters do not fall out or interfere with the pulling of cam, drop oil pan, pull cam, get bad lifter out and order parts. there is a thick gasket, collar made out of fiber under the dist cap mounting right where shaftt goes in to the dist, can not find it, mine is in two pieces. does the oil sump have do come out??
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No, oil sump stays out of the way.
Uh -oh myself. My civilian distributor has the little black plastic cap. You've got the MIL-SPEC one. I'm talking when I should be looking and listening.
Sorry 'bout that...
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Sorry 'bout that... scared me, thought oh now what have i screwed up,
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got to find that little gasket that goes in a recess at the bottom of the distributor and the top of the shaft the one i have is in bad shape
Attachment 2337
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I was thinking about the oil pump/distributor thing this morning on the way to church. Getting the oil pump drive gear to fit the camshaft drive gear on the exact tooth is one of those hold your tongue right jobs, but if I recall correctly, +/- one tooth will adjust out by mechanical rotation of the distributor - at least on the civilian distributor.
Is there a gasket that covers the whole flange under the distributor? If it's just flat, make one.
If you need one for the recess, would an o-ring do?
There isn't that much oil splashing up there - I suspect the gasket was to keep water out when you went amphibious
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pretty precise circle gasket 1" or so, maybe a little bigger. 3/16thick maybe for some reason my damm camera on phone stopped sending pictures or i would post one
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HERE IS MY PLAN!!
FEEL FREE TO CRITIQUE IT AND OR TEAR IT APART
GIVEN aint gonna run right with a defective lifter, needs to be replaced
do not want to pull the whole engine out of the jeep, after quite a lengthy conversation with a neighbor who has been in the mechanics trade for quite a while and his father before him.
1. hold the four valves up with custom pieces of 3/8 cut out plywood (don't want metal to metal, wood gives)
2. use plastic wire ties to hold all 8 lifters up high (have a test going on now to see if one falls after super tight wire tie holding it up) four hours so far so good
3. remove front gear, (created a timing reference mark for tdc #1 on two gears)
4. pan removed distributor and oil pump out, and pull the cam, from the bottom up replace lifter and tie it off with wire tie
5. replace lifter
6. put cam back in, and then relax wire ties, spring compressor and remove valve, has some scratches on it, that i made trying to cheat it down
7. adjust lifters one at a time
8. replace front gears and insure proper alignment of #1tdc, install oil pump in correct alignment with the slot on bottom and also distributor so it points to #1
9. new front seal (why not, cheap but old one looks brand new)
10. new gaskets
fire the old beast up
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I agree with your plan. I believe you need to inspect the valve guides to ensure that there is not any residual rust/metal stuck in the guide itself. A little time spent now, will prevent a head ache further down the road.
It seems that replacement cam gears do not have timing marks, from what I've read. The following link has information on to where the marks need to be. The marks can be verified by also checking the flywheel timing marks. Those marks are visible through the inspection hole under the starter, looking toward the rear, at the flywheel.
http://farmjeep.com/projects/ole-blue/cj3a-part18.html
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/t...opic38766.html
You had asked about head light bezels. Peter DeBella has complete light assemblies, headlight, bucket, bezel. They may be able to help you out with your distributor gasket. I bet you could make one for next to nothing.
http://www.debellajeepparts.com/m38premier.htm
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Attachment 2341
i dont see any guides in there,,,, the valve, seat, lifter (in two parts) and spring set up??
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The diagram is with the head drawing. Just like the mil speck drawings we use today, not everything is in the same drawing. Sometimes it is like hunting for snipes.
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/diagram...-engine-view-2