strange same valve guide for intake and ex, but the diagram only shows the intake portion. well it is what it is
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strange same valve guide for intake and ex, but the diagram only shows the intake portion. well it is what it is
There is two item 13, one exhaust, one intake. Two different part numbers. You may only need the sticking guide, but if your luck is like mine, go ahead and purchase them all.
got the pan off, and all four valves are held up with wooden wedges that way they wont drop thru when cam pulled yeah. new valve, guide, seat, lifter, and gaskets, but for condensation on open valve?? and just sitting there??
I use dehydrator plugs in place of spark plugs in the aircraft engines I pickle. It’s amazing how fast they can turn color on an engine with the exhaust, intake and vent taped shut. Even the cylinders with both valves closed will change color, slower than those installed in cylinders with open valves but they do change. There is a lot of condensation in every engine.
We use 10 one pound bags of moisture absorbent when dealing with power packs going into a can for storage. Often, when we get one back from overseas, the packs are full, and inside of the can looks like a rain forest. Often, we have to bar over an engine to push out any moisture that has made its way into the engine. Another problem we run into is when the engines go through the wash process, the folks tend to like to fill the air cleaner full of soapy water. When the water is evacuated, you still have to contend with the rust that is left behind. When the engine is started, the rust and soot that comes from the turbo is tremendous. When we were operating at full deployment in Iraq, the fine sand was the biggest clogger of parts there is. It's like talcum powder.
when i drive around Camp Lejeune i see all of the MT parks and all vehicles out in the rain. not a good thing
No it isn't. When the vehicles are parked outside, all the hull plugs must be installed to protect the environment. That's well and fine as long as the vehicles are tarpped. Most often they are not, so the hills fill up with water, and cause us grief. A lot of harnesses and hydraulic lines become damaged by the soup that they are submerged in. Sometimes we are our own worst enemy.
My neighbor friend is borrowing a old style flathead valve spring retainer tool.,, need to get the valve out because there are apparently 2 types of valves and Mike needs to know what i have. everything is exposed, side plate off, head off, exhaust manifold off, all valves blocked up by 3/8" pieces of plywood wedges (did not want to use metal against metal to hold them up) all of the lifters are locked up as high as i can get them and have wire ties around them so i can pull the cam without them dropping out. might just pull the cam out enough to get #3 ex out, that is the one getting reworked. Advance told me they can get all that i need including gaskets for oil pump, timing cover,. but might have to pay shipping, but if i order 99.99 worth of pieces and parts from mike, no shipping advance told me total for all about 40.00 have not figured up Mikes prices yet
NOW WHEN I PUT IN THE OIL PUMP AND DROP IN THE DISTRIBUTOR I NEED TO HAVE THEM BOTH ALIGNED TO #1 FIRE. THE SLOT IS OFFSET ON THE BOTTOM OF THE DIST, THERE A FOOLPROOF WAY TO DO THIS. GEARS WILL BE SET UP FOR CORRECT TDC, PUT OIL PUMP IN AND TRY THE DIST IF IT ALIGNS TO #1 AM I GOOD??, CAN ONLY GO IN TWO WAYS AND ONE IS 180d OUT??
If you have everything set to TDC, then lay out the distributor and oil pump so that the slot will align when installed. When I say lay them out, I am referring to laying them out on the bench and ensure that the distributor is set at #1, then line up the shaft for the oil pump to match the distributor. Double check everything, then install the oil pump. Keep in mind that you will have to start off one to two teeth off, so when the oil pump gear contacts the cam gear, it will mesh, (rotate) into place. At this point, your distributor then can be installed. Should fall right into place from there.
The flat head spring compressors are getting hard to come by, although I have seen a set up on the market that works of the same principal as the flat head compressors. The new spring compressors are designed to compress just the springs on a modern V-8, then uses air pressure applied through a fitting installed in place of the spark plug. The air pressure is enough to keep the valve in place while the keepers are removed. Most the time it is used to replace the valve guide seals on Chevy V-8s.
Good advice on the one or two tooth offset.
Somehow i lost the driver for the internet access card, just today go the PC back, however ordered new set of valves, went with the stainless and the new style retainer clips, seemed that the old retainers just looked worn? and kinda flimsy?? but ordered the kit, new gaskets and new front seals, and of course the new lifter. supposed to be here monday. like the free shipping that kaiser does for orders of 100.00 or more
We hadn't heard from you in a while and were wondering if you managed to bung yourself up somehow. Good to hear from you.
Yeah, while you are in the neighborhood on top of the engine, you might as well fix everything that you see that you don't like. You could probably have gotten by with the old valves, but while you're in there - this is the easiest time to do it. Same with retainers, and just one lifter?
Good luck!
Glad to have you back with us. I too was concerned that you got winged again.
Something you may think about. While you have the head off, and you have ordered the stainless valves, is installing hardened valve seats. Then you will be free to run unleaded fuel. Finding lead substitute is getting hard to come by. The parts houses around here have never heard of it..... Most of the counter jockeys are Y2k babies, so no surprise there.
go the seats....
got notice that pieces and parts to be here monday, and since putting in hardened seats is it true that can burn unleaded okay, plan on using 93 alcohol free to save any rubber gaskets that can be crapped out by that stuff. oh yeah, had a friend measure the cylinders with a guage that he ran down each one and he said, hell these aint even broken in yet....
https://www.ebay.com/i/271538485749
comments??
Do you have any reason to think that the worm is worn? I have replaced the sector (
the ears that rode in the worm were badly worn), but the worm was in good shape. You have two vehicles, you probably already have at least one good one.
I'd hold off till you tear down the steering box and see what shape things are in.
Unleaded fuel doesn't have the cushioning effect that leaded fuel does. The lead would soften the contact between the valve seat and the valve. The hardened seats and stainless valves provide a longer lasting engine. With that being said, if you are not going to drive your rig everyday, and will not be running the engine at the higher end of the RPM range, then you could get away with a lead substitute. I run the non alcohol unleaded fuel in my CJ2A, with the lead substitute, for the time being, but when the engine is ready for a rebuild, I will be adding the hardened seats to the block.
I agree with LarrBeard. The ears on the sector shaft are the first to go. This is what causes the wandering steering. There is an adjustment that you could try first that may help, and determine whether your worm gear is worn or not. There is an stud with a jam nut on the frame side of the steering box. Loosen the jam nut and turn the stud clockwise, until it bottoms out. Back off the stud an 1/8 of a turn , (or a slight drag is felt when the steering wheel is turned) and tighten the jam nut while holding the stud. When the preload is set with the wheels straight, turn the wheel to full left, then right. If the steering is tightens up at the extreme angles more than being straight, then you have a worn worm gear, because the center position is worn more than the left and right positions. I have performed this on several Ross gear boxes, and as long as the steering components down stream are tight, it will work well. I am assuming that you are wanting to take care of the free play in the steering wheel, and this will help.
http://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=144791
Tires make a difference also. Bias plies will want to follow every groove in the road. Non directional tires are not as bad for this, but are terrible in the rain, on pavement.
The '48 had always steering issues, even after I replaced the sector and worm 'way back in 1966 or so. In the restoration, we got a whole steering and gear shift assembly from the Toledo guy. Things were not worn, but just because I had a history with the vehicle, I put a Tite Steer lock device on the steering box. That gadget uses a spring to hold a ball against the sector.
It has driven very nicely since then - better than it ever did in the olden days. A full steering rebuild probably helped a lot too. I can't claim which fix did what (probably all of them contributed a little)..
And, yes, bias ply tires do make life interesting at times. There is one section of road near me that makes me wonder if I'm going to visit the corn field, but the groove stops before we get to the corn - or beans - or wheat - depending on the year.
One more comment. The Ross gear box should be filled with oil, same as differential. Most have developed leaks at the sector shaft seal and folks have added a Zerk and filled with grease. This doesn't lubricate all of the bearings up on the shaft.
the end where the steering wheel goes in is severly damaged, need new shaft, somehow the threads are destroyed seems to be taking off the nut using a wheel puller expanded the entire thread area and no way can a nut go on or off, just shot., and have two boxes
waiting for mr postman with new pieces and parts
Spent too much time thinking about the output side of the steering shaft, didn't think at all about the input end.
The folks at QTM sell good quality items. I purchase a fair amount of items from them for the M38A1 and the M151A2 that have been here. No complaints at all.
OK - NOW we understand.
Yeah, it looks like a good deal, especially NOS - no threads boogered or galled up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOQFBOVEZ6Q
I HATE THIS GUY>>>> But it do look nice
It does look nice, but it has a bad miss to the engine. Sounds like a good tune up, plug and wires, would do it some good. The oil pressure is low for as cool as it was running.
Syracuse, IN is about an hour or so west of me, so this guy is "local".
I agree, I noticed the miss, the low oil pressure (either low pressure or inoperative gauge) and I just don't like to rev them up that hard under no load.
I didn't see a radio harness either.
The metal work looks nice - a little character to the floor under the mat, but you get that.
Now that we've groused, all-in-all, a nice vehicle. But, Ira - yours will have more character, and you'll probably keep it.
wll, lets say i just dislike him intently..................sob does look nice, no ripples on the sides some on hood but still body looked great, yeah wondered about oil pressure
https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...da&action=view
going to do this also
The body work is presentable. It does have some character, and would be a descent show/driver vehicle. The hood could have used a little extra attention. I just am not comfortable with the oil pressure. Whether it be a faulty gauge or a worn pump, I would want to resolve it before putting it up for sale. I am confident that your A1 will be a top shelf representation. Your attention to detail, and the fact that you are taking care of any deficiency that come up will pay off in the long run. Lesser restorers will be jealous of your work.
every resoration vehicle i have seen, (dont want to make it sound like i have seen hundreds, because i have not) all started with the frame. in that same video collection there is a "5 MINUTE" presentation of a restoration project. And they went to the frame and blasted it to white, just as i did. found some areas that needed attention and welded new steel there., but they were pretty minimal. every single item on this job has been sand blasted and primed, double primed and some have base coat of OLIVE drap **** green. all of the old cars i have seen, 20's 30's so forth all started from the frame up. I am hoping to actually have a museum grade restoration with a great running motor. My old school mechanic called me last night and said he found his lap tool and will be here saturday to do the valves. after watching some of the videos this did not seem to be a major operation, but before i gorp something up i want my instructor there.. think the old girl will be purring by sunday night (well not quite purring only muffler i have on it is 36" glass pack, have not bought exh system yet)
Lapping valves is fairly easy when you see what you want to happen, happen. It's good to have a seasoned eye showing you what to do. Good lapping compound, and a good suction cup dowel rod make life easier.
You have done everything right, and you will be happy with your results.
Attachment 2470
AM REALLY PUMPED.... new valves, lifters, all lined up all now adjusted to clearance. Engine is now back together, all internal wise. will hang stuff on it tomorrow and then start it up
turned out that lapping the valves probably easiest thing i heve did they all have good seal
Everything looks good. The distributor is at the right position for the timing to be close. Good luck!
we were quite carefull to be tdc #1 then oil pump shallow side down and dist on #1 and it dropped right in, still hanging stuff and getting close to turning key to speak wonder if this is worth it. kinda pricey. but have the original plugs, time to get creative
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/new-tim...0-64-m38-m38a1
Just for timing purposes, could you substitute an unshielded wire for the #1 plug?
I suspect that if you get it close enough to start, you can time it by ear. If it's so far off it won't start - this gadget wouldn't help anyway - but then I've never had to work with the shielded RFI ignitions.
We're rootin' for you!
got no fire? trouble shooting discpvered 24vdc at input of dist, but no voltage at + side of coil? broken wire from connector to + side, replaced wire, still no fire, bot all voltages are good at coil?
No fire or no spark? I have better luck watching a plug for spark than trying to short a lead with a screw driver. I have also removed the distributor cap and cranked the engine while watching for spark across the points attempting to isolate a problem.
me too, took plug out and aligator clipped it to ground and put in dark place zippoo, did find the wire from outside the distributor to the + side of the coil, bad and so i sez to myself there is the culprit, took distributor out dis assembled and replaced the new wire with16 gauge marine grade tinned wire, put it together and was confident that that was the problem, now i had the correct voltages on the coil, but still no fire.....................damn
Touch up the points with some fine sand paper, or points file. From there, check the rotor for proper clearance to the cap. Touch up the tip of the rotor, contacts of the cap, and the rotor button on top with the fine sand paper. The problem is most likely going to be something trivial, because the engine ran before you tore it down a month or so ago.
" The problem is most likely going to be something trivial,"...............That is what i was thinkng, was so very surprised that it did not fire up, and yeah, was disappointed. Yesterday just shut the garage and went inside, kinda pissed. But wth. Happen to have some tiny files and one of them is a file that is paper thin. will do just that after some coffee. Kinda hard to check out a capacitor. gonna read either short or open,,, short means no good for sure, But since it will pass the effects of small signals, and happen to have one of the older Heath kit test labs that has ability to produce signals up to 2K, just might try that????????????? the wires are good, sort of beat up in places shielding wise, but they all were good, easy enough to do the simpson 360 to them.(THIS IS THE METER I WAS TRAINED ON BACK IN THE 60'S AND THERE AINT NO DIGITAL METER ALIVE THAT CAN TOUCH IT AS FAR AS TUNING A CKT AND LOOKING FOR A DIP)
Attachment 2471
gonna clean all he contact areas and then i am gonna drill instructor its ***, choke the thing and ask questions each time i squeeze its adams apple
Usually a combination of choice words always seems to help. Just have to figure out the right configuration.
The points on the 350 sbc would need to be filed every time I went to move it, (about every 6 months). I think you are close to making noise.