With all the environmental protection worries, most of the good radiator shops have gone away. The closest one to me is an hour and a half away.
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With all the environmental protection worries, most of the good radiator shops have gone away. The closest one to me is an hour and a half away.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmwillys
i think i have one close by i originally took it too him when it was out and he said he could rehab it. i think i got a small leak, but damn if i can find it. laid underneath it and just dont see it but get dripped on it is somewhere above the steering (i think)
It won't be a big deal to have a small repair made. You've driven it quite a bit lately, so I'm confident that your problem isn't a big one. A stress crack or a soldered joint is letting some coolant out.
Trying the black pepper deal?? Several tablespoons in radiator???
Only to get you home. A raw egg is another farmer's trick to get you to where you can repair properly. Wesco Silver Seal was always my go to for pinch fixes. It comes in a plastic tube, and consists of aluminum flakes. It won't kill the water pump, but can clog some of the flutes within the rad. It also works great for sealing up a leaking, (pouring) GM truck Saginaw power steering input shaft. The power steering pump growls until it chews it all down to a fine powder, but the puppy won't leak anymore.
I am pretty sure Champion custom made a radiator for TJones, at a reasonable sum. I'll bet they can make it mount up the way it was intended.
I would hate to see the old radiator leave you stranded. Most of the time they are going to cut and solder the leaking core tubes. This reduces the radiators ability. Like LarrBeard said, finding a shop that can really clean them any more is tough. All the new stuff is plastic, aluminum and glue. I did find a mature shop that has been around since the early 50's. He said he would be glad to help out but, he could never get close to the Champion price. When you repair an old core that is starting to fail, it usually fails somewhere else shortly after you fix it. He said the best thing to do was have a new core made. Upside of $500.
There is something in what you say,,, repair costs haveto be 100.00 to 200.00 and i feel that a new radiator set up to what ineed is possible good point repair costs versus just replace it
If you are not having overheating issues, and the overall core condition is good, you'll be in good shape for repair. The material used in the tanks and cores on the original rads was made to last, and would be a fairly easy fix as long as long as there is good material to bond with.
During my time playing with demolition derby cars, I had a favorite Chrysler radiator that was 4" out of square. The upper hose nipple had been punched through the front of the tank. It was fixed through pushing the tank back in position with a press, then brazed a patch over the hole in the front of the tank. When pressure checked, it had a couple seeps, but nothing to worry about. It held up to a big block running wide open, and running temps around 230 degrees without popping apart, but would rather whistle like a tea kettle.
The leak has stopped, probably only temporary, two full tablespoons of black pepper, actualy now runs about ten degrees warmer right at about 184 before pepper was 175, by temp gauge, feel that the issue is not a primary concern right now.
BRAKES, spent 6 hours on them today, first go around they were too tight, damn thing would hardly move, second attempt they were better but still not right, went around all four and backed off the eccentics on all wheels, could mot see inside of course, but feel that the shoes are just barely therre on all four. went for a ride and was up to speed on empty road and did a panic stop, damn, it stopped pretty darn good. Had to remove hub on right front darn eccentric locking nut just did not want to turn right, so removed it and replaced locking nut and it went is as it should
You are going to be the brake master adjuster before you're done.