A QUESTION were the insides of these blocks bead blasted, or painted? Seems that there is a patina which is not a normal casting finish, and has a sort o caterpiller color inside?
A lot of the components, blocks, axle housings and cases were coated with a reddish coating intended to seal any porosity that might be in the castings. It was a coating used extensively in the electric motor world. I think it is called Glyptal.
Am actually thinking ahead about pieces and parts, valves, rings, bearings so forth. Been traditionally using Kaiser, but they seem high for a valve replacement cost suggestions to look for comparison.
I think your best bet is going with a name brand component. The pistons are Silvolites from KW. I think they are the only brand you will find. Made in USA if you can find it on the Valves and Springs. This is good stuff https://beta.fme-cat.com/Application...at=Engine&ga=Y. I used KW stuff except for the Head, Valve cover and oil pan gasket. It was good quality stuff. MAHLE is also good.
saw a valve kit that included all the pieces to install new valves, including springs and retainers for 70.00 a lot more at kaiser individually, not knocking them in as much as they have treated me great, but this rebuild will include lots of new stuff, so am shopping, lots of good prices on ebay
Just watch the "China" and off brands.
was told by two shops that if one uses stainless valves such as offered by kaiser (basically 100.00 for four valves and other pieces and parts) hardened seats not needed. are hardened seats worth putting in the block for exhaust and head for intake????
It has long been established that hardened seats are needed on the exhaust seat to prevent the seat from receding into the port. The hot exhaust and the pounding from the valve causes the seat to slowly sink. To prevent this manufacturers harden the exhaust seat. I bet yours is already hardened. It was common on all hard working engines even "back in the day". Not all older engines need it but it is there on all modern unleaded motors. Most re builders like to be sure and put in hardened seats on engines without them as a precaution, because unleaded fuel can accelerate this wear on the exhaust seat.There are a lot of people going either way on this. I am old school, I would not assemble a motor without hardened exhaust seats. It certainly will not hurt. Stainless valves are a nice high quality addition to the valve train. Modern stainless valves are lighter and stronger.
got my valve (ford flathead tool) and damn if it did not bring back memories of working on the old flatheads............... and it worked all ex valves out...
is there a tool that i need to get to get the guides out? or leave them for the machine shop, will use this tool ONCE????
Definitely leave the guides to the shop. I bet the block exhaust guides are fine. It probably only needs intake guides. The machine shop needs to check them before replacement.
not even going to mess with the water pump just get a new one pulley and all
You are a wise man!
when a block and or head "dipped" and cleaned what is the process, never seen it done?
like i said lots of question