Thanks gm!!
After redoing them a couple times I’m pretty satisfied with the leg room my Bride and I have now.
Now that Ole Man Winter has stuck his head in what looks like to stay here in NE Ohio, maybe I’ll have more time to tinker with it.
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Thanks gm!!
After redoing them a couple times I’m pretty satisfied with the leg room my Bride and I have now.
Now that Ole Man Winter has stuck his head in what looks like to stay here in NE Ohio, maybe I’ll have more time to tinker with it.
Keep the photos coming!
I went last weekend to look at a clutch problem that one of our new members was having. He has an MD Juan bodied CJ3A, and I will have to retract some of the trash talk I had put out on the replacement body kits. His Jeep seemed to fit together really well, meaning the fenders and grill looked like they belonged together. The welds on the hat channels were alright, matter of fact they look similar to the welds laid down from the factory by hand. All in all, I was actually impressed with the quality.
All and all I am pretty happy with mine other than it is thin, other than that the fitment is good and the spot welds are tight.
I think it is a good deal for the money.
The guy that is going to paint it stopped by last weekend and said he was going to strip it all down and skim coat the whole body and cover up all the spot welds and the tiny waves in it, it should look pretty good when and IF I ever get it ready to paint.
My plan is to get it all finished and running and take it all apart and send it to him to start his magic.
Better to have it all in perfect running order before the fenders and all are painted. Then it won't hurt if you have to drill a hole, or drop a ratchet.
I just bought a 1958 Willy's CJ5 and I need to replace the entire brake system. I'm just going to rebuild the drums, does anyone have any suggestions? And or links to brake kits? I am also not sure what year/model brake kits will fit mine.
Thanks!
Kaiser Willy’s has a pretty good selection of parts for your CJ5
Don't try to save drums that are badly scored or that have already been turned to their limits. Getting it stopped is as important as getting it running!
Here is the link to KWAS brakes - they have everything you need. If the brakes are standard, just look for CJ-5 parts and kits.
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/category/brake
Put up some pictures of the critter so we can appreciate it with you.
I would use the pre-bent brake lines from Kaiser Willys, or maybe check into Willys America. I would look for American made brake master and wheel cylinders. Your local parts store can get you Wagner brake parts. They cost more, but you will not have to barnyard modify the backer plates to accept the crown Chinese replacement wheel cylinders..... The bolt holes and bleeder do not fit quite right. The cheap brake lines will cause you headaches because of leaks at the unions. I tried to go cheap, and fought problems as stated. Even if you buy bulk lines and bend them to fit, you will be better off.
I bought all my drums,wheel cylinders,springs,and shoes from my NAPA dealer and the adjusters and the pre-bent S-lines on the front axle I bought from Kaiser Willy’s if that helps.
Once you find out which model you have NAPA can cross it over for you.
The S-lines from Kaisers works well.
I wish you were closer I would love to buy that 225 odd fire off you they were a very good engine with a very pleasing exhaust note.
If you buy new brake lines, paint them before you install them.
Unpainted lines take a nasty white coating after a while and even the stock lines that have a primer on them tend to chip fairly easily. Just something i wish I had done .....
Haymaker we can crate her up and ship it to ya, she's just sitting in the shop taking up valuable space that we could use for more project parts:D:cool:
Not really my shop is 12,000 SF and we have room to keep every piece of iron and the trucks inside out of the weather.
I had to share this Guy's and Girl'sAttachment 3342
No truer statement has been made. I've had the statement made a couple of times, by the first wife, and by the current long suffering misses. My last shop was set up to do most anything. There was pallet racks then were organized with engines, transmissions, rear ends, steel, and even my snowmobile. As a single guy, it was set up the way I wanted. The first wife started coming around, but I did spend every evening out there working on junk. She even sat out there in my office chair and watched TV, and even mixed up a pretty good drink when she thought I needed one. A couple of years later, we were even married within the walls of the shop. Shortly there after, she stated that she hated the shop, and the amount of time I spent out in it..... Long story short, she didn't last much longer. Now I have a child and inherited grand children, so I don't get out into my current garage near as much as I like, but it's still my space.
Did you seriously want to sell that 225? 12000 sq.ft. would be a mighty nice shop. I’ve got 980 sq.ft. So I’m limited to one project at a time.
Yes Sir it’s for sale as a matter of fact everything I have is for sale if the price is right.
I did look into shipping, and its not feasable.
GM or LarrBeard I've got a question, whats your thoughts on powdercoating?
I am thinking I want to send my frame and springs out to get them powdercoated so they stay nice and I dont have to keep touching them up with paint. I have a local guy in Akron that said he would do it for $400 if I brought it to him.
Powder coating is the way to go, especially for the frame. The springs will have to be broken down so that the springs get coated all the way through. $400 will worth every penny.
I had a lot of things on the '48 powdercoated. The coater was just across the street (literally, and it wasn't all that big a street) and we could get very quick turn-around.
I had the frame painted with a tough epoxy undercoat type of finish. Our thinking was that it would have more chip and stone resistance than powdercoating - and I have not regretted the choice.
I also had the wheels powdercoated and I am not as crazy about the results there. The coater did not get into the slots as well as he might have and there are areas that didn't get really good coverage. The coating seems to be a bit porous and I am seeing some places where even after bead blasting, some little rust spots are starting to peek through. So far I can hide them with a light buffing of steel wool, but I suspect in several years I will have to pull the wheels and get them redone - probably paint this time. But - they do look good ...
As far as springs go - you really do need to do something with them. I went with new springs and the paint on them turned out to be a primer. I have chipping and I need to do some serious touch-up on them come spring weather. I am not sure if you can get that big honkin' piece of metal hot enough to get the powder to adhere properly and I would be suspicious if the coater can get the penetration in between the leaves. If I had it to do over, I would do the springs with the same epoxy/undercoat as the frame. We did the underside of the bed and the bottom half of the firewall in the same stuff and so far it has held up very well.
The attached photos are to show the painted frame, how we split the paint on the firewall and how the powder coated wheels turned out - as well as a chance to show off my truck.... .
In the end, there is probably not a bad choice of doing either - just my opinion that is worth all you paid for it.
Merry Christmas!
Creating an even heating is the most important part of the powder coating process. If the heat is not sufficient, then the powder doesn't fuse together properly. In the case of LarrBeard's wheels, it sounds to me that there was two issues. The electrical charge wasn't sufficient to attract the powder to the wheel. Then the heat wasn't enough to fully bond the coating, causing a rough surface.
After thinking about my previous post, I will concur with LarrBeard in regards to the springs. A better choice for a driver, would be the epoxy paint. This will have enough flex to keep from flaking off. The powder coat will have a tendency to want to chip off with spring flex. Either way, disassemble the spring pack to get a coating of paint/coating through out the entire spring pack. Add thin rubber, (inner tube) at the ends of each leaf to maintain the paint.
Thanks guys!!
I think I’m just taking the frame and after listening to the “wisdom” from you guys I’ll paint the springs with epoxy.
The guy at the Powdercoating shop said their oven goes to 800 degrees to make sure the powder fuses together and makes a better finish.
I got to thinking at 800 degrees it would destroy all the rubbers in the springs and hangers and they are all new so I’ll just paint them and get the frame powder coated.
I’ve got a guy wanting my 225 odd fire so the PC will be a wash.
I’ll send pictures when it’s finished.
IT NEVER ENDS DOES IT???
No it doesn't ever end. I've been trying to get back on the wagon project. I have whittled down the side projects to a couple. Soon, I will get the welder fired up.
A quick story about a powder coat shop. I worked at a Ford tractor shop, and a few doors down was a shop that fabricated a lot of sheet metal parts for Caterpillar. Long story short, the was a place that made pizzas for retail sales. You could buy a raw pizza for little to nothing, take the pizza down a couple doors, run it through the powder coat oven for 5 minutes. Perfect pizza, for a cheapo price.
[QUOTE IT NEVER ENDS DOES IT???QUOTE]
In a sense it is a Love/Hate relationship. Right now the '48 has the speedometer and oil pressure gauge out of the cluster. I sent them back to Bob's Speedometer to have them checked out. I have a cable/drive gear issue with the speedometer and they fixed the gauge we roasted - so now I have to figure out how to get them back in place.
IT'S LOT EASIER TO GET SCREWS OUT THAN TO LINE THEM UP TO PUT THEM BACK ...
You never seem to run out of things that need just a little more work done to them. And, by the time you get finished, something else needs to be looked at. Kind of like painting the Golden Gate Bridge, by the time you get to the end, it's time to start back on the other end.
You are right there LarrBeard!!!
I bet I’ve ordered 100 316 stainless bolts,nuts,washers,spacers you name it from McMaster-Carr maybe 10 different times and if I would have ordered everything at once I probably would of saved $100 on shipping. But like you said about painting the Golden Gate Bridge you get to one end and say s#}t I should get some stainless bolts for that.
So needless to say I’m trying to do it right and me being anal about EVERYTHING it may take a while.
As long as you are happy with your progress, that's all that matters. The little details may be missed by most, but you know it was done right, and to your standards.
Started smoothing the frame out before it gets powdercoated and putting new bumpers on due to the old bumpers were to pitted up to be powdercoated over and they were welded on and I prefer to have them bolted on, just being anal again:rolleyes::confused:.
Attachment 3487Attachment 3488Attachment 3489Attachment 3490
Bolt on are the way to go. If down the road you want to change your design, then you can without doing surgery. Time spent on smoothing the frame now will keep you happy for a lifetime. I sectioned the front stub on my 2A, from the crossmember forward. The heep was used to plow snow, so the frame was both rotten and beat. Long story short, I missed finishing one weld under the frame on the passenger side. Every time I crawl up under, it bugs me.
Great pictures! Now I'm jealous of both your shop and the forklift. Someday.
Thanks gm!!!
I really don’t really use the tow motor much because we have 2 electric 5 ton overhead hoist but they were tied up. My shop was a foundry before I bought it 15 years ago it was perfect for my line of work, 25’ ceilings, waste oil heat and 12,000 sf.
My buddy that owned the Jeep 35 years ago that built his model A street rod told me “ take your time and do it right “
So I’m “taking my time and doing it 2-3 times” but doing it right
I Hope!!!!
You are doing just fine. Everything is trial and error. Non of us do things the exact same way. The great thing about heeps is that they came from the factory ready to customize. There is really no such thing as a factory original Jeep. Dealers and J.C. Whitney had a laundry list of aftermarket parts since day one in '41. A Jeep isn't like a Chevelle. As LarrBeard always says, what you see is what you have. Serial numbers are good enough to tell you when about a the Jeep was produced, but forget about engine serial numbers. Means almost nothing, except military or civilian.
25' ceilings is nice to have for working on your equipment and trucks. I would imagine that the building is well insulated, since it was a foundry?
I built a home shop almost 20 years ago. The walls were 12' tall, with vaulted ceilings. I found out who my friends were at the time. Minus the concrete, we drove every nail. One wall was pallet racking to the top of the wall with engines, transmissions, rear ends and driveshafts. I had complete Chrysler and Chevy drivetrains ready to drop in the next car. My snowmobile had its own shelf, above the pool table on car skates. I didn't have a tow motor, but sure could have used one. I have gotten my money's worth out of my engine hoist.
I have a question for the Wise Ones.
Did Jeep make a steering knuckle that had 2 tie rod holes on the passenger side on any make or model that would bolt up to my Dana 25 axle?
I’m wanting to put chrome heim joints in lieu of tie rod ends, and the passenger side only has 1 tie rod hole in the steering knuckle.
I want to put 1 tie rod from left to right and one from the power steering box to the passenger side in another hole.
For the life of me, I don't remember how my wagon is set up. It has the Saginaw slosh box mounted to the driver's side frame horn, and I think the drag links were flipped over to bring it toward the pitman arm. I'll look to see what I can find out for you.
Ok, the answer for your question is the Willy's M38A1, international scout 80 and 800 with the Dana 27. According to Kaiser's, our wagon has been modified to the twin mount knuckle. You can look through the gallery to see how my wagon is set up. I like the idea of the heim joints. That should reduce the chance of the dreaded death wobble.
Yes Sir that is exactly what I’m looking for, not sure if someone just drilled another hole or it is something I can buy somewhere.
It looks like there is room on the stock knuckle to machine another hole closer to the axle. Attachment 3491Attachment 3492
After thinking about this subject over night, and fact checking today, the Dana 44 knuckle will fit the Dana 25/27. That should open up the ability to scrounge a knuckle to fit. Also, I was incorrect, or at least Google was on the M38A1 having the knuckle desired. Some wagoneers had them but more in the I.H Scouts and Scout II.
Thanks gm
I just emailed Mike at Kaiser to see if he could help me find one, i found 2 on Ebay for $200 but the drivers side I have is like new and Kaiser's have single hole passenger sides for $64.00.
Lets see what Mike comes up with.
I even checked on the 64 truck that I got the 11" brakes from and they were single hole as well, but your right they are more common on the scouts.
Too bad the market on Scouts is through the roof. I can't believe what people are paying for some of the rust piles on Ebay. To have been smart 20 years ago and stocked up on them when they were a dime a dozen. Same goes for square body chevys.
I know my wagon inherited a bunch of parts from the first generation Wagoneer, but never thought about the front axle. I need to look closer at it when the weather dries up. I know the rear axle is stock. The knuckle was most likely added when the steering was added. I know I have a couple knuckles in the back of the shed, but they came off a CJ2A. But one never knows what you have until you study it.