now i am confused (normal) saw this?
http://cj-2a.com/techtips/specs/torques.html
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now i am confused (normal) saw this?
http://cj-2a.com/techtips/specs/torques.html
Wow you found a discussion topic here. Your question creates a few more! The early generic service manual for the Model 25 indicates 22ft lbs. and rotate the nut to the next hole. The CJ2A information you have indicates 60 ft lbs. The general torque specification from Manual for 1949 thru 1986 Jeeps shows the bell crank to tie rod at 38 to 45ft lbs, the steering rod to tie rod at 50ft lbs, and the tie rod end nut at 60ft lbs.
The CJ 2 thru 5 all use the same tie rod ends, so the same specs for all the years makes sense. They are all the same thread size so the differences in location make no sense to me. I think in the old 25 manual they are relying on at 22 it is fully seated and then additional rotation to the next hole adds a good deal of torque. But 60 is a lot. That's as much as a head stud.
I tightened them up with a good hard pull from an old arm, and rotated the nut till a cotter key hole lined up. Don't tell anyone I didn't use a torque wrench.
I only use torque wrenches on engines where it's important go have things tightened evenly. The rest is good old instinct.
what i actually wound up doing
first of all i have a old type torque wrench old school.. took it to max with old fashioned arm on socket wrench and saw that had quite a way to go for cotter pin alignment. to get pin on the right align took it to above 50 and it alingned but backed it off and put cotter pin in,,, but i checked it with torque wrench 40 or so at that time, now i also had to add a flat washer, due to the holes being actually below where the would even lock? that is what i did and that is where it stays. lot of reading and lots of different numbers, all i feel confident is that the damn ball joints are on and they aint going anywhere
It's good. The idea is to firmly seat the tie rod in the taper and lock it there.The flat washers are not unusual. I also had to use them on my CJ3 and, on a few classics. The tolerances and changes through the years no doubt. Those tie rods fit a lot of different things.
back to steering
when i move the steering wheel (only within the free motion of the wheel, was under thje jeep with someone else turning it only in the free motion travel, the drag link moves forward and back but the first ball joint moves forward and back on the ball joint can watch the arm come forwr and just roll over the ball joint here, does that mean it needs to go? not egg shaped (t least to me)
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Slack in the steering is an aggravation for sure.
If you are seeing slop on the bell crank, then I would replace it. I would also check the mount pin on the crossmember. Slop usually starts on the pin being worn first, then migrates to the bell crank.