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You bet on the Simpson Multi Meters gm! I have two vintage Simpson 250's. One I inherited from my Dad, and one I was able to restore I bought off the internet. They are the most rugged analog meters you will find since the 1950's. They are still available new! The 250 is now the 260 but just as solid. They are very expensive new. I like my Fluke, but most of the time I grab the Vintage Simpson.Quote:
Originally Posted by gmwillys
https://simpsonelectric.com/products.../260-8-260-8p/
I believe I've seen a Simpson in my Dad's garage. My next trip to CA, I will check it out.
I showed a picture of the t-case as that is one of the last things to put back. I don't know if I should remove the T86A and re-install as a unit or just bolt up the t-case to the already mounted transmission. I think the Univ. Manual says to bolt them together and install, but is that necessary?
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You can really do it any way you want David. I strongly prefer assembling the trans and transfer case together, and bolting them to the cross member. Then lift the whole assembly up into place. I find it Much easier that way. It is also the best way to take them out. Since your trans is already in, no need to pull it out.
I agree with Bmorgil on the installation of the transmission and transfer case as a unit, but since you are already halfway done, just roll with it and install the transfer case as she sits.
OK - enough about the Old Guy and his Simpson 260 .. (grin)
Seriously - around an Old Jeep that is electrically very noisy, a digital multimeter (like my Fluke 77) goes crazy because of the ignition and regulator noise. Sometimes old vehicles need old tools to work with.
You can spend about $500 on a new Simpson 260 Series 8. It is just about as fool proof as any meter ever made - about all you can do to damage it is drop it off a tall ladder or let batteries rot in it.
There is the endorsement from LarrBeard! OK David, next time your in CA if you see a Simpson 250 or 260, don't let it out of your sight!
The 250 I restored had batteries rotted terribly. I was still able to save it. It has a few cracks that epoxied up but it is working nicely for a 1960 model. The one I have from my dad is a 1963 rare 250 model. It has a sensitive movement for transistor circuits. When I was very young and learning..... I dropped it more than once, blew the protective fuse more than once and in general abused it. My dad used it on radio gear. He just kept soldering in new fuses. It just keeps on working. My son just blew the fuse in it.
I have solved the sideways picture debacle. It is a camera thing. With my camera held vertical, the photos post sideways no matter how I save them. With the camera horizontal, the photos are straight but upside down if my camera button is on the left. With my camera horizontal and the button on the right.... voila.... it worked!
OK, I'm putting the camera theory to the test now....
I tend to agree with you guys that the transmission and the t-case should go in together. I especially like the suggestion of bolting up the crossmember and mount at the same time and jacking it all up together. I also see some pros to this approach too. When bolted together, I can more easily get the t-case main shaft gear on. Otherwise, I'd be crawling under the Hot Mess to attach it.
So I went ahead and started by removing the transmission shifter/fork rail cover. I see four bolts that attach the transmission to an adapter plate which attaches to the bell housing. I'm assuming that I can remove the four bolts that affix the transmission to the adapter plate. BUT, before I do any of this, I will get a jack stand and wood block to keep the bell housing in place.
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I am also wondering if any of you can direct me to obtaining the floor panel nuts with retainer clip in them. I am missing a few and don't want to use a generic extruded u-nut in its place. I didn't get my thread gauge out, but the square nut looks 1/4"x20. Maybe called a "caged nut"? OK, never mind, I see them now at KW parts
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You always find things like that at the last place you look...
Another option would be to put in nutserts;
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-...kit-58078.html
The nutserts work pretty well, and you don't have to cut a square hole that you would with the caged nut.
David, does Hot Mess have a fresh clutch in her? You are all the way there for a new clutch and a flywheel resurface. If you are sure the clutch is good, no big deal. You would hate to get it back together however, and have a bad clutch. If you support the engine under the oil pan, you can remove the bell housing and clutch pressure plate and take a look.