How did the ride go? I should have taken the heep out this weekend, but was doing other things. It won't be long before it will be time to pack wheel bearings on the car hauler and shoot north.
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How did the ride go? I should have taken the heep out this weekend, but was doing other things. It won't be long before it will be time to pack wheel bearings on the car hauler and shoot north.
It was a beautiful day for a joy ride, put about 80 miles on it yesterday.
I just wish I would of put a baffle in the fuel cell when I built it, the fuel pump mounted in the frame rail squalls pretty good when it gets down to about a half a tank and the fuel sloshes from side to side and the pump sucks air.
So I guess I will just have to keep it topped off.
Okay guys!!!!
Went for a short little ride on Saturday and parked the Ole girl.
Came out tonight and have a puddle the size of a dinner plate under the emergency brake drum, drove it 100 or so miles after it was put back together and nothing now she’s leaking out of the rear output of the transfer case.
Any ideas??
Could it be the EBrakes to tight and scorched the seal or maybe a speedy sleeve on the rear yoke?
Much like a Harley and old dogs, constantly marking their territory.
I would look at the output yoke sealing surface first. The brake would have to be way too tight to cause enough heat to mar up a seal. I'm in the same boat when I went through and fixed the parking brake on the 2A. The output yoke showed signs of a wear pattern on the sealing surface, but didn't leak. Installed a new seal, and it weeps when driving. A speedy sleeve is in my distant future, unless I dig through the spares bin and find a better example.
GM I was just on YouTube and guys mentioned sealing the output shaft spline with permatex before putting the yoke, nut and washer on, they say the oil has a tendency to siphon out through the splines.
So I guess I have another project this weekend, the Bride is going to see the grand babies today in Myrtle Beach so I’ll be batching it for a few days.
TJ if the brake was on and there was enough heat to get to the seal, you would have known. That would be red hot. It can and does happen, but it usually is accompanied by fire or at least a lot of smoke and heat. The drum would be red hot.
At the output the Dana 18 leaks from:
-Between the shims. Use a thin spray of Hi-Tac Spray on on each shim.
-Along the threads of every bolt. Seal each bolt with a thin film of black silicone.
-Around the outside of the seal. Light coat of silicone around the outside of the seal before installation.
-Down the spline. Light coat of silicone on the spline before installation.
-At he seal surface on the yoke. Use a wear sleeve if in doubt. Do not under any circumstance sand the surface. A large warranty nightmare of mine stemmed from persons wiping the seal surface with abrasives. Even Scotch-Brite will cause a drip. The micro scratches left behind cause a lot of problems. That surface finish is very specific believe me! You cannot duplicate the ground surface of the yoke. If it is suspect replace it or put a sleeve on it.
All that said TJ that much lube on the ground isn't a drip from something. Sounds like you are going to find a failure of something worth writing about! Like the seal fell out or something equally bizarre.
Don't feel bad I have a few drips I am still chasing. These old baby's!
Well I got the drum and yoke out!
1. When the sand blaster blasted all the parts I had the surface taped off on the yoke thinking he wouldn’t sand blast it, NOT he blasted all the tape off and put a rough surface on the machined surface and I didn’t catch it when I installed it.
2. The spring broke on the tc side of the seal.
So off to Akron Bearing to get a new seal and a speedy sleeve for the yoke.
Wonder if they make a double lip seal to put in instead of a single lip that was original or should I not even mess with it?
Well a good time to catch it TJ!
Thats a fantastic catch! Pull that fuel tank while its down?
Well I got the speedy sleeve installed and the double lip seal in, now its time to fill-er-up again.
Just wondering if I take the shifter tower off and fill it through the tranny until it runs out the fill hole on the transfer case if that would work, they share oil don't they through the tranny?
It is easier to do it that way due to it's a B*&^#h to fill the transfer case through the side hole that is too close to the frame rail and my electric fuel pump is mounted in the frame at that spot (poor engineering on my part) :( :(
You could TJ, just be sure to pull the fill plug on the transfer case. You will need to keep filling the transmission until lube comes out of the fill hole on the transfer case.
https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...ght=lube+level
Absolutely. Bmorgil is right to pull the transfer case fill plug. The wide open transmission cover would be a whole lot easier then trying to weasel in to the fill plugs. On our 2A, it doesn't like to be full to the plug. It will leak out the input shaft until it gets to the level it likes when driving. The transmission doesn't leak while parked.
Thanks Guys!!!
It will be a heck of a lot easier that way.
Here is the double lip seal and the speedy sleeve i got for the Dana 18 rear yoke just in case anyone needs to put one on theirs.
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Thanks for posting the parts you used.
I'm going to stock up for both the heeps. We don't have any good local sources that you can step up to the counter to match up a pile of seal and bearing remnants to match up for cheap. Thank you TJ!
Beautiful day for a joy ride!!!
Happy Memorial Day to all who have made it possible to joy ride in Freedom.
Thank You!!!
Took my pickup in Wednesday to have it oil sprayed and the guy used a mixture of waste oil and bar oil for the nukes and crannys then he used Fluid Film on the wide open areas.
He said they came out with a new Fluid Film that’s black and I’m telling you it looks like he painted everything underneath black, damn I should of done this when it was new it turned out pretty sweet
Had to park it in the gravel for a couple days while it dripped out but all and all I was very pleased for $120.00!!!
Oh Yeah Gizzard
Between the Road Salt and Brine Water (from the oil wells) around NE Ohio in the winter months, if you don’t do some sort of preventative precaution against either type of snow melt it will eat your vehicle up with rust faster than a Kansas Wheat Fire taking off across a field in a wind storm!!!
That’s why everyone tries to find vehicles from the southern states that use sand on their roads instead of salt/brine water!!
Cancer Free
Rust is amazing around these parts that's for sure TJ! Nothing like a concentrated salt spray at 60 mph in a fine mist to insure the rust gets started everywhere. You have to wonder the eventual cost of all that salt eating up everything from concrete to steel, and then making its way to the great lake.
The first time you work on a southern kept vehicle, you are then spoiled. With northern vehicles you have the following sequence of events; Oxy acetylene torch, air chisels, more torch, PB Blaster, more torch, impacts sockets with sledge marks from wailing on the socket while the impact gun hammers for extra shock, more torch, and finally break the bolt off. As a general salt belt law of averages was that on a quiet night, if you listen closely, you could hear your new car/truck rusting from the inside out. There was a company that sold a bill of good stating that the had a process that would prevent rust. Ziebart would go through your vehicle and drill through the lower edges of the body and would "coat" the inner panels with rust preventive..... Within ten years most of the cars rusted out around where the holes were drilled.
3M does make a descent product called Cavity Wax, and it works in the same principle as Ziebart, but it uses existing holes and long straws on the applicator can to reach most places.
No matter what you do that rust starts somewhere around these parts. I love your "salt belt law of averages". We actually used to say "On a quiet night you can hear your new car starting to rust", and then sob quietly.
Ziebart used a fairly heavy material that was more of a coating or a sealer than anything else. It worked OK until it was compromised, then it held salt water into very intimate contact with the base metal and accelerated rusting.
Over the last quarter-century, I've favored a process called Rust Chek. Their process is more a heavy WD-40 type material than the thinned out tar that Ziebart used. Rust Chek will work its way down into lap joints and seams, something that is imprtant on old metal in our Jeeps.
I had the '48 Rust Chek'ed and in several areas around the lap seams in the bed I can see where the juice has worked its way along the seams. Now it did discolor the bed liner a bit, but I much prefer that to having it quietly rust away.
Well
Getting the Orange Crate all loaded up to trek west, as Horace Greeley once said " Head West Young Man" I'm not real sure about young part but the bride and I are heading west.
Rumor on the street is 4 of us guy's from this forum are meeting up at the Bmorgil Ranch and heading to the Toledo Jeep Fest for the weekend!!
If anyone is coming or already there look us up because the Wonderful People at Kaiser Willys has sent us some really neat stuff to pass out, A Great Big Thanks to Mike, AmyB, RachelH and all the people at KW for getting so involved in such a Big Event!
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Ya gotta love a parade!!!!!
Of course there are the last minute questions from the longsuffering spouse:
"Are there going to be any other wives there?"
"Does Mrs. bmorgil know there are going to be people there by 3:30"?
"How many is she expecting for supper?"
My answers;" Yes dear, Yes, dear, All of us Dear."
A two hour plus road trip in a 73-year old truck will be the easy part.....
Go east Larry... just keep her headed east! Mrs bmorgil has no idea what to think of all this "Jeep Thing" stuff!
Looks great TJ. thats such a perfect jeep
Thanks You AZ
Boy I got all the neighbors stirred up now!!!!
Our electric went out at 3:30 yesterday afternoon in the whole city of Cuyahoga Falls and is expected to be out for several days and my Generac is humming like a bumble bee!!
The City is telling everyone it shut the pumps down that fill the water towers that gives us water pressure and that may come to a halt if it stays out for more than a couple days, so we may be out of water too.
The Bride invited everyone over for coffee this morning, time for me to leave and go to my shop :):):)
You may want to keep an eye on the Generac.... One of said neighbors may be out there throwing rocks at it.
Watch for the power company to come hook up!
Funny you say that, the neighbor asked if he could hook up a extension cord to my deck to run his fridge, microwave and coffee pot.
It tripped the GFI on the deck when he plugged it in, so I said it’s to much and he got pissed :(:(
Generacs and GFI's sometimes don't get along well. Make sure you have a good ground rod close to the unit. That gives a better ground reference than depending on the house neutral line. If the GFI loses track of where all of the current is going in and coming out, it will trip.
And remember Ira's hurricane incident when his his generator tried to walk off.
Generacs and GFI's sometimes don't get along well. Make sure you have a good ground rod close to the unit. That gives a better ground reference than depending on the house neutral line. If the GFI loses track of where all of the current is going in and coming out, it will trip.
And remember Ira's hurricane incident when his his generator tried to walk off.
Larry I was wondering what was up with it tripping the GFI when he plugged it in, I just figured it was to much draw for the plug.
He then had the balls to ask if we could plug it in to a non-GFI plug inside and I told him no way I didn't want to take the chance of a short over night inside my house with his cheap A** extension cord and plus there would be no way to shut or lock the doors.
As far as it growing legs, it is sitting on a concrete pad anchored down with 1/2" bolts so it would take a guy big enough to go bear hunting with a switch to walk off with mine :):):)
Here it is guys:cool::cool:
It has a 383 stroker in it now, but he’s got a 671 blower to stick on top of her to make it breath better!!
350 automatic tranny
Ford 9” narrowed
The bed was tubbed and 3”s added to the rear fenders
Cab was stretched 6”s
Bed was shortened 6”s
And it was converted to suicide doors.
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Wow that's a sweet one!