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$8,104 isn't a bad investment at all! Cheap for the amount of learning, theropy, and feeling of satisfaction from a job well done. Rest up my friend, for many a mile to be put on Magoo.
Hardened seats and stainless valves are a wise investment. Then you can run unleaded fuel with no worries.
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Dollar Signs
[QUOTE} Many would say hell could have bought one for less, [/QUOTE]
No, in this case you have a bargain! Most carcasses on the Willys For Sale site are well into the $4500 to $6400 range.
Magoo was a bargain in dollars and a treasure to all of us in experience.
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Very nicely done for that price!
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Yes Sir Ira that is a Hell of a deal for what you turned out with, it is a first class rebuild.
And Like Larry said half the ones for sale at the 45-6,400 range need a lot of work to make them presentable.
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And lets see, 40 and hour for mechanics labor comes to....we won't go there. Yep it's not about the money, it's the satisfaction and the end product. Knowing you had a hand in all of it and knowing it's done right and having something not just everyone can have.
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still waiting on machine shop, decided to have them assemble the crak to block and that includes the seals, but waiting still
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www.gofastmotors.com
update, these guys exceptionally busy, went there yesterday to talk in person. Must have been 30 engine blocks scattered around shop. 4, cyl, 6cyl. V8's all kinds. Owner and i went over block, seems to have a glaze which is pretty significant on the cyl walls a potential issue, they want me to replace the pistons with .020 over size. so here is plan now,
New pistons, and rings
new wrist pins (why not, in for a penny in for a pound)
std rod bearings
std crank bearings
new (they install rear main seal)
replace all of the ex valves with stainless, owner said if valves are stainless then hardened inserts not needed)
he also told me that he could not install inserts anyway. his machine will not handle this block "TOO TALL" he needed a 60 year old grinding machine to do it
anyway that is where the rebuild is
what causes cyl walls to glaze over like they sometimes do?
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"what causes cyl walls to glaze over like they sometimes do?"
Quick answer - improper break-in. Running at too light a load and a constant speed for too long a time. On a freshly rebuilt cast iron engine like ours, hard acceleration and run at high RPM (hang in there in 2nd gear) alternating with lower RPM and load is the best way to keep walls from glazing up and getting a good break-in.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/...azing-get-rid/
https://www.fischerpanda.com.sg/uplo...er_glazing.pdf
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Usually as the ring seal begins to decrease through normal wear, the hot combustion gases seeping past the rings super heat the oil and the ring surface. When it gets to be significant it begins to "glaze" the cylinder wall with the residue left behind. The more the bore, Piston ring lands and rings wear, the more "Blow-by" burns to the cylinder wall. It is amazing with today's modern oils, rings and machining capabilities, how little you see glazing anymore except on very high mileage engines.
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Larry we hit that at the same time! I am assuming it was not an improper break in or machining. I was thinking it is a typical used engine with some miles on it.