working on breaks and tires and hubs , cleaned parts and painted .
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working on breaks and tires and hubs , cleaned parts and painted .
There's always plenty to work on! You sure are making steady progress.
Well started on rims and tires but found out I made a mistake . Thought I had 4 good 16 inch rims but found out this morning I only had 1 good 16 in rim . Had 2 sets or rims 16 inch set and 15 inch set , the 16 inchers had old rags on em ,first one cleaned up nicely so expected the other ones were also in good shape but found out after taking the old tires off not the case . So went and checked the 15 inchers they were good enough to clean up but no 15 inch tires . So I ordered 3 new 16 inch rims , and 2 new brake drums . Here is what the tire looks like mounted on , only one at this time so going on too brake lines and brake cylinders. They are LINGLONG , sounds Chines but they made in Thailandl , saw em on the internet that a guy had bought for his jeep and he liked em, so went for em . $ 135 each ,free shipping . Found on Amazon. 8 ply rating . CROSSWIND MT LT225/75R16
Those things do have some teeth!
Yea , we really dont need teeth on tires right now , we in drought spell down here . Weather man in our area said it would take 22 inches of rain to get us back to normal , well that means Hurricane weather , ha Harvey only gave us 17 inches , Houston got it all .
We were upgraded yesterday to severe drought and it’s not even the hot and dry part of the year yet. Going broke trying to keep the shop below 90 and the house below 80. Forget any aircraft maintenance I wanted to do. As soon as the sun hits the hangars it gets hot pretty quick.
Tough to stay cool anywhere right now that's for sure!
"... it would take 22 inches of rain to get us back..."
And if you got it all at once, 14 inches of it would run off and drown someone in the next state.
I have felt the pain of finding out the wheels that I thought were good, ended up being junk. I had received the wheels on a crusty '47 2A. They held air, but the tires were beyond dry rotten. One of our members on here was looking for a set for his M38A1, so I broke them down to clean them up to send out to him. Needless to say, they weren't worth giving them away. They can be welded up, but to keep them true, they will have to be chucked up in a lathe, and turned back down to the proper dimension.
Hopefully it will cool off for you soon, and that the rains will come back soon.
Attention bmorgil ,working on rear end again moved pinion in .002 ,as of now got .020 back lash . How much should I move carrier bearings to get in the neigh hood of .010 ? Your guess as good or better than mine . Thanks
Oh man the heat is on! I am thinking move .015" from one side to the other. I would say less is better than more. A little less than fifteen might be OK. I wouldn't go over .015" on the first try anyway. You never know but generally every .010" will get you .005" to .008" in backlash change depending on the gear set. It is easier with a new gear set, as the backlash specification is .004" to .009", off the top of my head. In the case of a used gear set it is better to try to hit .009" right on the money or even .010", which is where I prefer to run a well used gear set.
Gonna try .012 , also when I finished it last time I torqued the pinion shaft nut to book 150 minum ft lbs , seemed to tight to me had to turn yolk with pipe wrench should it be that tight ? Maby just me im no super man . Also got 20 inch pounds on rotational torque right now.
Woe Wulfie! What do you mean when you torqued the pinion nut you had to turn it with a pipe wrench? That would be enough to ruin the pinion bearings. That is a lot more than 20 inch lbs torque to rotate! The pinion torque to rotate should not increase past the specification when the pinion nut is at full torque. How can you have 20 inch lbs right now? Did you have to loosen the pinion nut? Am I misunderstanding you? I think you might be saying you had to hold the yoke still with a pipe wrench? If so that's OK, it is tighter than h$LL! It is 200 ft lbs on a Model 44.
To re-state, the torque to rotate is set with the pinion nut at full torque and the Ring gear removed from the housing.
I only have it torqued to 100 ft lbs. The specs say to torque pinion nut to 150 ft lbs minimum .
Metalshaper checks his rotational torque at 100 ft lbs in his video on rear axle assembly .Should i be checking rotational torque at 150 ft lbs ? If so im not torqueing it enough to check rotational torque . And i have the ring gear out when i check rotational torque.
I am not sure who metalshaper is but, he should be torquing the pinion to its minimum specification at least, when setting the preload. Sometimes you can get a little more torque to rotate by increasing the torque on the nut to its maximum specification of 220 ft lbs. Make no mistake, there is a lot of torque on the pinion nut on the model 44. If you have ever seen one come loose, you would never question that torque again! You need to hold the yoke solid.
Below is a link to the official Spicer Manual. The Jeep Universal Manual is also a good source as it is a reprinting of the early Dana manual. Both manuals indicate the torque at 200 to 220 ft lbs. I have seen a lot of different numbers. If you google it you can get mislead in many directions! When writing these manuals, I always included engineering in the meetings, and they always had to proof read them before we published them. I think the best bet is always the factory manuals.
https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...r-Carrier-Type
Metalshaper is a youtube personality who does a lot of jeep maintenance videos. I don’t know that I have ever watched one of his videos but has a pretty big following on other websites.
I think bmorgil should know what he’s talking about, he did write the manuals for Dana before he retired.
Gonna do the best I can . Gonna do the pinion pre load to get approximately .030 rotational torque inch lbs , at 150 or more if you advise to do so. Tnx bmorgil . Means i gotta add shims to decrease previous pre load I had when i torqued it to 150 ft lbs after i set it rotational torque .020 at 100 ft lbs , then i torqued it to 150 ft lbs, which I believe now to be incorrect .
Lets say that our Technical Service team and the Marking team and the Engineering team made a printer print them! Tech service manuals took a good deal of time and money. I think they have it streamlined a bit now. In the beginning we took actual photographs and Marketing created "storyboards". The digital age definitely changed that. Unfortunately, everything that was taken as a photograph doesn't turn out well in the digitized format. Like the attached link for the Spicier manual, the photos are not very visible. They just don't transfer well to digital. They were great photographs!
Go after it at 200 ft lbs of torque on the pinion nut Wulfie. Approach it slowly. Check it every 50 ft lbs as you approach 200 ft lbs. If at 200Lbs of torque you have 20 to 30 inch pounds of torque to rotate your done. If it is a little light, you can torque it to a full 220 ft lbs. sometimes that will give you a little more torque to rotate. You need to bring a NEW pinion nut (or RED Loctite on a used one) to at least 200 ft lbs before you take it out for a run. Therefore, you must know the rotational torque of the pinion without the carrier at 200 ft lbs on the pinion nut.
Noticed that when I read the manual , but it is what it is ,still wish I had a bag phone . HI HO ,HI HO off to work we go , will shoot for 200 ft lbs . Tnx again bmorgil . I need a push once in a while .
Your welcome Wulfie!
I remember the Bag Phone! I had one of those, 1994.... In a galaxy far, far away!
Ah, the bag phone! I had one in my '90 Chevy pickup. Radio Shack special for a penny to start, but don't get out of your area, because roaming charges were steep.
You actually needed a pickup with a bench seat to carry it around with ya:D:cool:
The handle fit around the transfer case shifter, so it didn't slide around when hooking corners. The Radio Shack version didn't have a battery, so it had to be plugged in to use. You could buy a battery, but it was more than the phone. I ended up selling it some time in the late '90s. Folks from the Southwest were buying them up because the range was much better than the phones of the day. The networks still service the phones because there wasn't anything better at the time.
Wow the bag phone sure stirred up some noise lol.
Got "RIPPER" up on his front 2 feet. Got the new rims , painted em up , been doing brake lines and finishing front hubs ,put steering rods on , and rippers two front teeth ,or zapats.
Question about "S" brake lines . Used the old ones if leaks cant stop , will put new ones on , thought it be easier to hook up originals . Also on steering rod ball joints castlated nuts to short so put washers under them ,cheapie knuckle joints i got off of e bay , dont think ill do that again. Kaiser Willys seems to be spot on about stuff.
Digging into ross steering box .Looks like complete re build . Steering tube cam has a notch in it and some rough ramps , bearings were all in the bottom of case ,shaft of the lever shaft was scored and horns worn on one side , steering gear ball footballed , steering column had pin holes and bent . As i said complete overhaul ,box was good though. Robbed steering gear arm from box bubba didnt want . Last 2 pics are Horrible Freight gear puller set that I really found useful , has multiple functions . Bmorgil will be happy im digging into rear end again ,got pinion rotational torque set at 35 inch pounds , wiggling, at 200 ft pounds , and in process of decreasing back lash , hope to rap it up tomorrow.
Yikes the steering box was busted! That puller will do a lot of work. Horrible Freight has just what the DIY crowd needs sometimes.
The worm gear looks like one of the ball bearings found it's way there, and they muscled it through. It is amazing some times the different types of wear and damage that one comes across in a restoration/repair. The life these Jeeps lived is just mind boggling.
Horrible Freight is one of my go-to places for cheap specialty tools that I can't justify spending the big bucks on the good stuff. I have that same puller set, and can't complain too much about it. Just keep the threads greased so they don't gall, and change out the flat washers with some grade 8s and all will be OK.
Will look for some grade eight washers , that kinda stuff hard to find in my town lol. Got 2 more shots for bmorgil's review . Drive side first , cost second. This after moving pinion in .002 . Have .0095 backlash at the moment but one thing when i ran this pattern i forgot to torque ring gear caps down they were just snug , will that make any difference ?
It looks like the caps were tight. Just in case though, spin it one more time after you torque them.
I would run that. The drive side is good to go. The coast side is a little quirky but not too bad. It wants to go closer (little less backlash) and out a little (Pinion out) . You could mess around and not get it much better and loose it on the drive side. If you move it around more than a few thousandths, you are going to loose the drive side. I think that will be relatively quiet on drive and coast, for an antique vehicle!
I buy all my grade eight hardware by the pound at Tractor Supply. It's good hardware and I use it on everything.
Yea , now i can move on . Finished brake plumbing today, gonna close up rear axle and put brakes and shoes on so he can stand up !
Got him on his feet . Waiting on steering repair parts then move him out of shop and set body on him.
Well got most parts for steering except main thing ,. no shaft with wsorm gear , called KaiserWillys and had no clue when I would get it , but good thing part made in USA . So plan b . Cut off bad worm gear from the shaft I had took other worm gear and did transplant. Where can I get reamer to ream out bushings in steering box ?
It takes a .875 reamer. Any machine shop or machine supply house will have them. I would suggest taking it to a machine shop. It will save you the cost of the reamer and, the reaming process can take a little practice if you haven't done it before. You don't want to ruin your new bushings. It takes a little practice to get a uniform bushing diameter. You definitely don't want to ream it oversize. A machine shop will do a good job, and it shouldn't cost much.
I think you should wait for the new worm gear and shaft. The weld and straightness are critical. I see the angle iron fixture you are using for straight but, if there is sufficient run out it will effect a few things in a bad way. The weld on the original is a friction weld with the worm gear having a machined fit on the shaft before welding. It is MUCH stronger than simply cutting the shaft and circle welding it. You are never going to get the strength you need. The shaft is compromised where you cut it. The shaft is designed to "flex" somewhat. Impacts to the steering system from the road are absorbed by the torsional (flexing) capability of the shaft. It flexes slightly with impacts. When it gets to the spot where you cut it off it will not have the torsional capability. It will fail there. That is a bad thing! I love your ingenuity Wulfie, but I think the steering shaft modification is unsafe.