DAMN, that thin metal is so hard to fill holes with the mig welder i have, keeps burning larger holes and i just gotta think this out some more
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DAMN, that thin metal is so hard to fill holes with the mig welder i have, keeps burning larger holes and i just gotta think this out some more
You'll need to play with the settings, because each welder is different. I like to keep voltage fairly high, then adjust the wire speed to fill holes. Hit the hole hot and fast, then bounce around to other spots to prevent from putting too much heat in one area. Too much heat will cause the panel to buckle. You'll get a feel for it with a bit of practice. If you back the hole with the copper plate, that will help a lot. The copper gives you a flat surface, then also dissipates heat to prevent burning through. Invest in a long jaw pair of vise clamps for areas you can reach to clamp the copper in place. On the other areas, that's what the handle is for on the copper. It may not be comfortable for you to reach with the sore ribs, but do the best you can.
continuing to fill holes, reduced wire speed to much slower, lessbuild up. However the entire passenger side is now all tacked in, and will have the drivers side ready today./
once all sides are sturdy and the holes still are aligned with the main points to hook to frame, i will tip it on its side because the majority of the new stuff will need to be welded from underneat, section of passenger side about 4" X 4" really dimpled got to hammer that out but have to weld more before i do, dont want to pound welds out.... really want to get the bottom done so i can really get in there and paint it good with primer
A bit of body hammer and dolly work will straighten up the dimples.
Sounds like you are getting the hang of this body work business. Is it as bad as you thought it was going to be?
"as bad as you thought it was going to be? " in many cases worst, there are so many spot weld holes and most can not be filled from back side, tons of them on both sides i think the welders go paid by the weld, but we are trying
On your next project, invest in some spot weld cutters. The cutters make it easy to cut the top layer of sheet metal. A quick touch up with a grinder, and you are ready to lay in the new piece. Then you don't have to deal with filling holes on the back side.
having to deal with warpin, when welding the frame brace under passenger side floor kept warping, normal i guess,,, ran some bolts thru the floor and frame and will probably leave them there, cut off excess and peen the threads and cover with undercoat, but stops the warping anyway,, got bottom half welded, lots of welding, wheel well, back floor, front flor braces and such
Warping is when too much heat is applied in one spot. Stick and move, stick and move. Be like a boxer. The only place that I had issue with welding in the floor, was my own fault. The inside corner of the tool box floor, I didn't move around near enough to disipate heat. The floor pulled upward on the inside radius of the floor. Being that it was on the inside of the tool box, I had to warm up the section with a torch, and beat it back out with a 2x4 and a 2lbs machinist hammer.
You are doing alright. Every day you learn something new. You'll be an expert if you decide to build up the second Jeep.
well, i can relate to the bfh route, think that when i rotate the body to have the passenger side down ai can effectively beat on it, beat it like red head step child (figuratively only), there are so so many spot weld holes that have to be filled and some re used. but making progress
A bfh is the only way, from time to time. An 8 lbs. sledge can be used a a body hammer if the job requires it.
A quick story about a bfh. We had an lady that worked with us. She was a little German woman who had moved to the states with her husband. He was an Officer in the German army, and was here to train U.S. soldiers at Fort McMuffin. He passed away due to a heart attach. She decided to go to work, and stay in the states. She was a systems specialist on our command vehicles. We borrowed her for a few weeks to help out on the MRAP program. It was a new vehicle that hadn't been fully engineered, so most parts needed tweaking. She was working to install the driver's rifle mount, but the upper mount was way too long to fit against the 2X2 square tube that makes up the headache rack. Our solution was to bend the amount around the tube to retain the two mounting screws to prevent the mount from rotating. She couldn't bend the tab, so we told her to use a bfh. She spoke a lot of English, but was confused at what a bfh. We spelled it out, bigger friggin hammer. To remember terms, she would repeat new terms in German. Long story short, we learned how to say bfh in German.
" bfh in German. " BUT DO YOU REMEMBER IT?
i think that the passenger side of the jeep will look like a pond after a rock thrown in, but we will see? and there is still professional help at a body shop for specific areas, maybe, maybe not, then again might give it character, could also put a couple bullet holes in it with the garand?
That is an option. Character bullet holes would be a good touch. Plus it might make you feel better. To pull some of the ripple out, you can heat the panel with a heat gun, then take a ziplock full of ice and rub the panel. This will cause the panel to shrink, reducing the ripple.
I do remember the German version. The great thing about German, saying hello sounds angry. grober Ve*****ter hammer.
The picture was of my father's M38. He found some bullet hole stickers that worked well on glass, but not so much on paint.
" you can heat the panel with a heat gun, then take a ziplock full of ice and rub the panel. This will cause the panel to shrink, reducing the ripple." whoaaaa a heat gun, would provide enough heat??
"Character bullet holes would be a good touch." maybe i should line them up with the ones in me, got more than a couple
A good heat gun will. Direct the heat to the valley of the ripple. You can also put ice water in a bucket, and use an old towel. When the metal is hot, wipe the towel over the valley. The metal will shrink. This is how most paintless dent repair shops fix hail dents.
Since you are still in bare metal, you can take a sanding disk, (paper backed) and flip it upside down in the DA sander. Run the back side on the metal to cause friction, but not remove material. Do this quickly, moving the grinder around, then let air cool. Watch the results, and apply more where needed.
A cone tip on the heat gun works to focus the heat in a small area.
the passenger side of the jeep almost done, doing finishing touches, over 100 spot welds needed to be done, wheel well, floor, repair panel and welding in the circular portion to hold the 24vdc connector, tons of welding to be ground down.
Forward progress!
Take a word from having been there, done that and gotten hurt -
Get a good set of goggles, ones with side shields. When you are working down in close places, grit and spall bounce off things and find their way between simple safety glasses and your cheek - ending up in your eye.
An eye patch spoils your "outlook" for a long time.
As you well know, we're not bulletproof anymore!
"As you well know, we're not bulletproof anymore! " yeah, i know, but two years ago some yahoo tried to rob me at a atm and shot me in the hip, got pissed off and emptied the walther ppk in his chest.................
got goggles
Note to self. Don't piss off Pelagro.
Even better than goggles, a good face shield. Tight spaces, not much help there, but if you keep the surface horizontal when you can, that keeps the crud from your eyes. Flapper disks keep down the dust somewhat, being that there isn't a hard stone doing the work.
welding all done, (i think) now clean sand paint bottom and undercoat it
Good deal! You are one step closer to parade duty.
I cleaned, primed, and stained the shovel for you this morning. I didn't have any USMC olive to complete. I'll drop some photos in the A.M.
KOOL, KOOL, I GOT A AXE. Borrowed from usmc many many years ago and two gas cans many many years ago, had been using them for waste oil but will clean one up and paint it purty............. this is way cool. Just came back from hardware store and got a swivel shackle to lift the body up
NC DMV TITLE
First of all had to get two independent dealers to appraise vehicle, did that, not going to say how i did that but i pulled in some favors. Then have to get a indemnity/surety bond using the average of the two appraislas (10K) then the insurance company issues bond.
take the bond to dmv title inspectors and have them come and inspect vehicle, (all they are looking for in reality is the original Willy data plate with serial number (got that covered it is on the vehicle with original rivets
they authorize a title to be issued and the first step is a non operable title (i think in reality this is a way for the county to levy a tax on what i have)
a title magically appears in the us mail.
to obtain plates change the title to operable then get tags
They don't make it easy on the honest folks.
Alabama, it's fairly simple. The M151A2 that I had here for a while installing the floor in had no title or paperwork to speak of. The data plates were all gone, and no visible stampings. The owner drove it up to the DMV, they registered it as a homebuilt, made prior to '75, assigned it a VIN, and handed him a tag. Abalama doesn't title anything older that 1975, so a bill of sale is all that it takes. I don't even think that the bill has to be notorized.
bottom line is this is the way the county finds out what you have so they can tax you
This whole state is a** backwards. Folks drive around with dealer paper tags until they darn near fall off. I have to haul my 2A down to the county seat, then wait around for one of the ladies can come out and verify the serial number matches my paperwork. I've been riding around with the expired Illinois tag, and nobody seems to care. The insurance is current, so it isn't likely that they would issue a ticket. Like everyone else, I'm on my way to get the tag....
The taxes are dirt cheap, unless you have a brand new vehicle.
I've got a better one yet, I have to file a "Highway Heavy Use Tax" form every year with the federal boys telling them how many trucks we have that are over 55,000 lbs and we pay the tax based on there weight and send a check with the form. When they receive the form they put a red stamp on it and send it back and we take it down and give it to the local BMV to get all plates for my trucks and trailers. Well this year we sent the check,they cashed it and the Government shuts down. So i go and get our plates at the end of December and the lady at the BMV asked where my HHUT form is at and I tell her that we never received it but here is the cancelled check that its been paid and she refused to give me the plates for the 2 big Tandem Dumps that we work almost every day. So I ask her what we should do and she said call your Congressman and B&*%$h about not being able to work your trucks and make a living, As of yesterday we still havent received the stamped form, so needless to say the trucks have been on the road with expired plates.
As GM said not the whole state but the whole country is A** Backwards...........
TJones is right! After reading about Pelago's dealings with the VA, your dealings with the feds for your taxes, and our dealing with the military. The whole country is indeed A** backwards.
I just heard on the news last night that they collect 6.5 Billion a year in confiscated drug raid money and the President wants 5 billion for the wall, what do they do with the 6.5 B they collect from drug $$$$ just axing????
That would make way too much sense. We dump millions into foreign aid, and medical care for the uninsured aliens, but Pelago can't get a good set of teeth. It burns my a** just thinking about it.
drain the swamp, i know this site does not want to get political but enough is enough. and the swamp is the reason for 90% of the crap
AMEN to that Pelago!!!!!!!!!!!
I second the Amen.
back to the m38a1, at the moment i can not do much more about the va other than what i have done and that is write letters to both senators naming names and dates.....
repair time stillAttachment 3816Attachment 3817Attachment 3818Attachment 3819
oh yeah, i ordered the tailgate section, Kaiser has two one for 649.00 us dollars and one for 324.00 us dollars i asked them why, one us made the other "not", i then asked what is most bought and was told the 324.00. then asked how many returns and was told none, how many 649.00 ones sold and was told only a couple in past years. we shall see
btw, got kicked out of the morehead city va clinic, for calling the good doctor sweeney a shyster and a guy that could not make it on the outside because he was incompetent and could not afford premiums for malpractice and that "I an the fuXXng patient not the fuxxng computer you stare at" almost got arrested sheriffe called and both hwy patrol and sherriff came and was taken outside and talked to them and showed them the chest scar and the both said "good luck with the va" and simply left
You'll do fine with the foreign made panel. Buy American when it's feasible, but double the price is a bit much. Both will need trimmed to fit exactly, and you will probably need to adjust your welding technique a bit. The steel used in making the panel will not be as good of quality as the American steel, so it won't take heat as well. New steel doesn't take heat no matter where it's made as the original '50s steel can.
A good doctor practicing medicine is right on average 70% of the time. A VA quack only has to be close 45% of the time. You are right, most of the VA doctors couldn't make it through vetenary school, let alone be an MD. The clinics are nothing more than pain killer dispensaries. My monster in law moved to Mississippi to get my Father in law into one of the better VA nursing homes in the South. The staff did a descent job tending to his needs, and the doctors were pretty good. He was there for three years before passing.
Attachment 3821
THIS HINGE IS PARTICULARLY TOUGH TO GET OUT OF THE FRAME OF THE WINDSHIELD. Spent over three hours getting one out. has two bolts, which of course even after much heat broke off, and the fact that the whole damn thing is rusted in tight. have cleared one side of rusty debris and what was left of the hinge (not much) replacement hinges are fifty bucks each and that is only for this portion of the hinge. PART OF THE HINGE IS ON A PARTICULAR ANGLE THAT HAS TO BE REPRODUCED IN NEW STEEL................................
FUN AND JOY AHEAD
Attachment 3828Attachment 3826Attachment 3827
RUSTY NASTY *** HINGES, MANY MANY HOURS TO GET THEM APART AND SOME3 SEMBLANCE OF WHAT DO I DO NE3XT.
Not going to do anything until i spend a 100.00 dollars on a new set of hinges, then will take the frame and have it sand blasted then fix it
I've been following you from the start. cant wait until you take that first ride when its done. Best of luck.